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IMHO, the reason for trifilar is for /tight coupling/ and /balance/ between the windings. For when "close" _isn't_ good enough! ;-) Paul

Yes Cliff. I am now building up a PI for the QDX. Trying to get JS8CALL to work with FLrig. I dont see a QDX in the 1.4.7 version of FLrig installed with apt-get install. SourceForge is my next stop.

I live my Knipex stripping tweezers, you can get up close to the toroid without nicking it or the other windings. Those tweezers come with 0.6mm jaws standard; there are also 0.5, 0.8 and 1.0mm

I'd like to thank everyone who has provided some excellent advice! You've given me some great direction and I will chase down each of the suggestions you've made. I'm a member of the Halifax Amateur

Bryan, from those voltages it looks like you should first make sure you have good connections at the points labeled 5,6,7&8 on T1 in the instruction manual. Also make sure you installed 10K resistors

I miss them also but, I have bought those items and many other items from Amazon.

It's times like this I really miss Radio Shack.....needing more 3.5 MM stereo plugs, as usual. ?Thanks for the tips. ?I have both manuals open now and will proceed as shown.

I'll make one out of an old hacksaw blade. Looks like it should work fine and be an easy homebrew. Thanks for the idea John K5MO

Peter, I am glad that you have your QDX back up and running. Here are a couple of tips that may help you maintain the 'status quo' - your build is 9V - I would be inclined to use a 'buck-convertor' to

You can save yourself some bandwidth by just using the product ID number (B003RWS8XE). This works on most popular site (eBay, Banggood, etc). Just type it into the search bar. Jack, W8TEE

I use my wire cutters (very gently) to scrape the enamel, or an Xacto knife.? One thing I found is that my soldering iron temperature had been set too low (about 700 F).? Bumping it up to 800F made

Let me add that poor solder joints aren't always obvious even to the EXPERIENCED eye! -- 73, Dan? NM3A

Using diverse methods over the years, among them sandpaper, scalpels and lighters. Having now the Knipex wire scraper I like that one best although it too has its 'ideosyncrasies'. Sometimes it is

I do like the sandpaper and clothes pin idea but I have the Knipex Enamel wire stripper presently on Amazon for $19.41.

Finished my high band QDX over the weekend, built for 12V power. So far only one, hopefully inconsequential, build mistake - using the 28 gauge wire to wind L2 instead of 22 gauge. Per the QRP Labs

Personally the simplest solution in this grouping is sand paper in a clothespin. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=97Bw0KYDzo0 Mike W9MDB

After reading through this thread earlier this morning and then doing some repair work on another piece of equipment, the penny dropped and/or the light bulb when on. Maybe it's a tool you already

My tool of choice is/was the $20.00 one, not the seam stripper. Just a note of clarify my previous post. Ed N7SNT

Not to take anything away for the creativity shown, but just pull the wire through a scrap of sandpaper between thumb and forefinger.? That removes all the varnish and leaves you with a shiny wire

I’m using one while building a K2 with the 100 watt amp kit (about 30 toriods wound)and I’ve only broke 1 wire while cleaning off the enamel coating, doesn’t clean 100% but good enough to tin