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Allison, thank you, I will do that.? I had removing C17 on my list to test, but didn't try it.? I mistakenly thought that once PTT triggered the relay, it was a non-issue.? I see now that leaving

Intersting name. I don't see many "day's". 73. Jerry/k5sop

*Have you Enabled TX PTT in PuTTy? If not here are the steps to do so.* * *Navigate to the QMX Menu:* Access the QMX putty menu using the appropriate method for your QMX device (e.g., using the

Kai, please don't apologise. No duty for a fast reaction, it's our hobby. Your result points more to a broken PCM1804. It's the highest probability. But to exclude something more you may test this: *

Hey, I just assembled this a few days ago, made a couple of contacts with an end-fed. What I found odd is that when I attached a 50 ohm dummy load to the output and measured SWR, it was around 1.5 on

12V and a bit more is no problem for a 9V QMX except the PA. So if you operate from 11.xV without transmitting there will be no problem. And there will be nothing like written in the first post. No

I followed the instructions explicitly since it was my first build. And I felt like this was indeed one of the tough points to accomplish. Being new to soldering added to my anxiety of course. I kinda

Me too. I've often posted how satisfied I am with a self-built, QMX high band. Over a thousand POTA hunting QSOs with it now, and reach as far as Alaska and mid-Germany from central Florida (with

The Assembly manual clearly states that the PCB board is the heatsink, not the washer. I've been using a self-built high band, 12v, QMX, in our Florida heat, for many months and have never felt it

Sorry for this jumbled stream, I will make a proper post with screenshots later today. Thank you so much for the help. [email protected]> wrote:

I used this method as well, assemble the display, connecting pins and front panel using the top two screws with nut spacers. Solder just the front pins to the display.? Then disassemble and follow

Probably because the op fiddled long enough to draw the voltage down to an acceptable value. Y-O-Y did Han's waste so much time putting multiple LARGE PRINT, red font, voltage warnings in the

For information, with the Windows volume all 100% as well as the Vara sound card (change has no effect) my 20m VarAC output is 2.5W.? That is 1/2 of WSJTX output.

My approach was to use the method described in Hans' instructions for the 2 corner pins. That was enough to establish position. Then, I loosened the screws just enough to allow the assembly to tilt

I think you should buy some (maybe a box of ? ) transistors and a bigger heatsink and some plain board and read up and start from there When messing with input stages ?you’ll find the input

The QRPLabs 10W linear amps and the 50W non linear amps seem to have very similar output circuitry. I am awaiting delivery of my QMX+ but I also have had for a long time one of the 10W linear amps

I’ve built two QMX+ and used this method to solder the display. It adds probably 15 minutes to the build time, with the pre-assembly and disassembly, but so much easier to solder!

Gotcha, thanks Jerry.

Nice article, but I see two problems... 1) It will also attenuate received signal 2) If built into connector it vill be hot

That is it Stan I now have tx power thank you!