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This would happen if the QMX is going into SWR protect.? Does an 'S' appear after the frequency on the QMX display? My VARA HF works OK with both VAR-AC and Winlink in USB mode.

Ludwig, My apologies for not responding today, I was busy all day with a search and rescue exercise. Anyways, I tried what you suggested and made sure that there was FT8 activity on the frequency and

For PTT operation remove C17 (or lift one leg) 5v injected into that point (R6) will cause it to go into TX and should be under 3ma. C16 and C17 determine hold in time after release.? Fro SSb longer

Test at home with that antenna no another! -- Allison ------------------ Post online only, direct email will go to a bit bucket.

Of all their batteries I found all of the "9V" were when full charged were 11.1Volts, not much surprize as there are no combination of LFE or Lion that hits 9V they are all 11+ Volts or the next

VarAC software, Windows 10, triggers tx no steady output, rx perfect and have CAT control of frequency: I have chosen the QRP Labs QDX for CAT rig configuration (tried all sorts of Kenwood too). Baud

Well alrighty then!? I had NO IDEA that the voltages were that way, Stan.? I'll never understand why 9V is actually 11.1V and 12V is actually 13.8V LOL.? Thanks much.

Jamie, when I measured current draw through the QMX +5V PPT line connected to R6 with RF in, the values were quite high at up to ~150mA.? So I then tried injecting the +5V directly to the base of T1

Mark, a freshly charged "9V" Bioenno battery will have an output voltage significantly higher than 9V. From the Bioenno manual, its nominal voltage is 9V, but its charge voltage is 11.1V.? After some

Yesterday I have just built this EFHW antenna for my QDX and in a few weeks my QCX+ 20M band to be built in May: using a HB9ZHK kit and 10 meters of wire (precisely cut for 14.060MHz with a SWR of

FWIW: Part 2 is here: https://amateurradiokits.in/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/HF-Linear-Amp-Kossor-2.pdf?srsltid=AfmBOoqnP7Fz9Zs2C12MmJT3_8pGWQ0rAvB-DpmERszCh0LGE8XOXqNA And that same person sells

That's exactly what I did, then removed the screws and reconnected it to the front panel. Seemed way easier. You have to kind of slide the nylon nuts in between the boards, but it worked just fine.

What parts should I check for rx? Also now for some reason it says swr is 1.7 on every band when it is not wrote:

If you like. Here’s an idea to build an attenuator. These can be built right inside a connector. it won’t be variable as you suggested

A photo might be 10000 times larger than the text of a message in this forum. To keep the archives at a reasonable size, the forum is configured to remove post attachments after a few

Lawrence, While the board and washer both absorb heat, there’s no place for it to go other than spread around inside the enclosure. The longer the transmitter is on, the more the heat builds up,

I'd assume the clunk is due to poor voltage regulation. Check power supply voltage with key up, and then with key down. Another way to reduce the clunk is to increase the size of C430 by a factor of

Thanks for the help. Sorry for not being clear, I am using a par and fed 20 m and fed halfway antenna with an inline RF choke. I shall experiment later this evening from my home QTH where I have a

I can't speak for the QMX as I haven't built one yet, but with previous designs the washer is not intended to be a heatsink. It's purpose is to hold the finals down flush with the copper pad on the

A note about fanless heatsinks… these are better referred to as heat spreaders or heat delay devices because they slow down heat buildup by spreading it over a large surface area. Finned heatsinks