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Hello Bruce, The simplest solutions are often the most effective. Maximum volume was the solution. Thanks and 73 Reinhard DL3AS Von: [email protected] <[email protected]> Im Auftrag von Bruce

No problem.? Please go ahead. 73, Mike KK7ER

Excellent, thanks for the feedback, Mike. I also placed that procedure in my FAQ document for the v1.2 ABS. If it is OK, I will add your photo which I think is very instructive for someone else

Interesting, Thats the same as the one from QRP Guys.

Yes, into a good SWR. Now I have to give a longer answer since someone else is going to say you are adding incredible risk of damage with anything over 12.00V.? But Hans officially states (in

Well now when Hans does have a _004 release he will have to create a message with a new title since this one is now burned? :-) Brien - KE7WB

Here's a procedure to do a factory reset on a QCX when you don't have a working display. Count carefully: Long press left button Turn tuning encoder counterclockwise (CCW) 4 clicks Short press left

Thanks for the information, Stan. I'll certainly keep the volts down on FT8 after the repair. Is it correct to assume that the 12.3v battery without a buck converter is OK on CW? Thanks

Hey Stan, I finally got back to this project and am sure glad I tested before soldering the ATU to the mount board. The board behaved exactly as you described. And your test procedure (

Paul, That Drok buck converter requires the input voltage to be 1.5V above the output voltage, so it would work, but would only give about 10.5V to your QMX.? The mini360 would also work, but

When it transmits, do you hear a warbling buzzing in the headphones? I did, and found my volume was above 100%, too much is just as bad as not enough. 100% volume seems the sweetspot.

Have you checked at the processor pins?? A tiny bit of wire or solder flake could be bridging a couple of the processor pins that drive the display

I like that stack of filter boards. Could have just three pins with a binary code, each board has a 74HC85 and 3 dip switches. Only problem is it gets kind of tall, even if the toroids are laid

Would definitely appreciate a blind reset procedure. I agree it seems like a loose connection but there doesn't seem to be any shorts I can find and all the pins have continuity between the processor

Back to the original question if you are still interested,? in my opinion 1mhz sample rate is not fast enough to capture the E strobes.

I've been thinking that with diode switched filters you could make a multifilter stack. Each board in the stack would connect to the common input, output, bias, and filter select lines, one filter

As noted in other posts here and in the QMX user manual ... for Linux-type computer (such as the Raspberry Pi), it's something like "click on the speaker icon in the tray (or whatever you need to do

Hans, I like the idea of your LC CAT command. However instead of replacing custom characters with spaces, I think that it would be more convenient if you could replace them with UTF-8 encoded

I know its a little cheeky but any idea how long to an update. None of my QMXs will calibrate and I have to turn the pre phase and amplitude off.

I just found a Mini 360 Buck Converter in my junk box. Can I use that in place of the "DROK DC-DC Adjustable Buck Voltage Converter" to lower the voltage to say 11v.? It is this