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QMX bought all assembled 3 weeks ago and a few QSOs without problems. And suddenly it doesn't restart. After investigation, the +3.3 V has a short circuit. After removing the doubt about the

Anyone willing to share an LTSPICE model of the filters or RF section of the QMX+ ? It would be interesting to compare a lab sweep vs a SPICE simulation sweep. 73, Joe W2JEJ [email protected]>

Hot glue is pain to remove if needed. Instead use B6000 or 7000 glue, holds just right not toxic to components, and easy to remove with just a small swipe of alcohole. Do not use silicone since it

Steve, Is it mentioned in the manual? Just do the scans, if they are something like correct you may just leave them. The fundamental test is the difference in noise when the antenna is connected on

On my recent QDX-M build, I was careful, inspected joints as I went, etc. But once I got to the connectors, I figured I was nearly done, and I soldered them in relatively quickly. And then was

Mike - I've only operated my QMX with an EFHW, but have been contemplating a 17 ft vertical for a planned POTA rove. Is the RF a problem for CW ops, or just FT8? What are the symptoms? Tnx de va3rr

I'm curious; how necessary is it to tune the BP filters on this radio to get good performance?? (For purposes of this discussion, I would define "good performance" as "at least 75% of optimal output

If my experience is any indication, you may have have RF feedback issues (if you transmit). If you use an external tuner that probably means that you will have some length of feedline between the rig

Hi, I agree with Ron. I put the the QMX+ through a shake and drop test and? glue is not necessary. The little inductors are more fragile anyway. A cell phone is even more fragile than a QMX+.?

Gluing them makes them really difficult to work on later. Make sure you have them adjusted properly before gluing if you do that. I don’t personally glue them because their inductance and therefore

I have used a dab of hot glue on board connectors and don’t recommend it. I would try wax next time or maybe even white glue. Hot glue might melt insulation and I used it because I mistakenly

I'm assembling a QMX+, and all those on-end toroids look a bit fragile to me. They get pushed about as I merely install each new toroid. Yes, they'll all be inside a case in the completed unit, but I

Really? I did know this.? I have never heard any yet.? Then again, I have heard very little CW, as I have not yet spent hours scanning up and down the bands on my new prebuilt QMX as it is a bit

Two things I've done here is build a QMX+ because it has multi=band capability and go to a 17 foot whip. The power output is no problem these days as the solar flux is high. You don't need an amp, but

Hi George " Anyone with QMX and QMX+ camping or hotel setups please send pix and ideas.: " k3gk " Right... 6 inch down / 43 inch up Left tripod will support that heavy MFJ 17 ft vertical in light

I have QMX 60-15 running at 11.5-12.3V. At 12.0V I get from 5.2W to 4.7W with lower the frequency higher the power. I run it stand alone and sometimes with MX-P50M (45W PA), mostly chasing SOTA? &

Your Tx sweeps look OK but your Rx sweeps show no Rx, nothing but noise. I'd check the inductors and transformers used by the Rx, the BPF and the trifilar transformer. Bad connections here could be

I would definitely swap out C106 and C107 for the higher voltage versions used in the latest kits.? Alternatively, you could just add some new SMPS boards to your (or a nearby ham's) next QRPLabs

I Forgot Thomas, K4SWL has a great YouTube channel check it out. I forgot to point that out. POTA and SOTA fans and many of us watch it!

Hi All, One of the attractive features ( and expensive)? features of the Elecraft portable rigs is the small simple whip antennas that makes them "Pedestrian Mobile" which proves how easy and