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I use 99.9%? IPA (not the beer!) and an old medium toothbrush to dissolve the flux away. While the area is still wet I lay two layers of kitchen roll over it and rub over the top of that with the

Hi Paul, I initially built the 9V version of the QMX. All my power sources are either 13.8V or 12.8V. My thoughts were building the 9V version with a voltage regulator inline of a dedicated power

Hi I have used this but CW only, The KX3 has superb power control 73 Andrew

Just curious, why would you replace it with a smaller one? Are you trying to make space for something else by shrinking the LCD?

Hi Amazon do leaded capacitor kits, build up some stocks. 73 Andrew

It’s all interesting The trouble with assuming temperature = heat flow is that actually temperature is just heat and without knowing the magnitude of the flow is a bit of a dead end There is a

I agree with Stan's assessment. When I had a blown PA transistor in my QMX, the rig (12v) was drawing over 200mA during receive. I didn't have to remove the Heat-sink washer to find the bad one. It

Based on the post’s you referenced, I’m going to perform a “sanity check” on the LPF considering that L507 was found open. I can now invision a path through Q507 and the BS170’s with there

You will need a high band QMX+ with 6m to do transverting up to 2m and 70cm.? Failing that 10m had been popular in the past. There are many reasons you won't want yo go lower. When I played with them

Hi Greg et al John VA7JBE's description is also what is happening with the QMX+ I have just completed.? This is my second QMX+ as the first one didn't work due to faulty ic's in both the tx and rx

I think it mainly depends on what you want to use for a power source. 9V will use ~1.3A in transmit, 12V will be under an amp (working from memory here!) 12V is tempting to use a nominal 12V source,

Well I'm back; Ludwig, since we determined that Q507 was good (until I broke the legs off), is there anything else that I need to pay particular attention to, to determine why there is no output

Tony, I wasn't sure if you were measuring the a ctive device, so higher temps meant poorer transfer *to* the heatsink, or measuring the heatsink meaning higher temps might mean better heat transfer

This looks like the one, Nate -- thank you ! Bill? W3WJ

Mine looked like that too. ?I couldn’t get a reliable connection to my pc until I resoldered those pads. ?Just used a fine tip iron and took my time.

There's no free lunch. Power out < Power in V*I out < V*I in The 12V battery would need to sustain high current for the buck converter to achieve 20V at the current required to amplify the signal to

Mine looked exactly the same. I did some continuity checking and all looked good. I moved on and have had no problem in that area. ________________________________ Sent: Saturday, September 21, 2024

I'm no expert, but mine looked quite similar. I feared to touch it up: my hand isn't that steady. But I have had no difficulties with the USB port on my classic QMX. That's just how the process is at

I am on page 38 of the assembly manual for the QMX+, where it suggests we check the J201 soldering. I have attached a photo of what mine looks like. It looks to me there are pins in the holes that may

Thanks Dan - and all. All good pointers for investigation - so much appreciated. I'm using the V1 board schematics, but as far as I can see the SMPSU board component numbering has been maintained in