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I am that user. I think I've got it.? I changed the delimiter to '.' instead of ',' When I did this the additional '.' appeared in the IF; Response. Log file from QMX attached. Chris, G5CTH

Clipping does sound bad. A better way would be to use one of QRPLabs' AGC modules. It doesn't clip. It lowers the resistance of the volume pot wiper-to-ground connection in response to loud signals

Hi Arlen. what is the current draw on transmit? If Q^ is heating up fast then it's probably conducting into a short. If Q1 is really hot, it could be the short. You could try replacing that one BS-170

?The available space is kind of tight on the QDX, is there any recommended place for the 47V Zener Diode? 73 de Pedro, LU7DZ

Sounds like it's missing the ground connection on the 12V. Check the socket soldering and continuity with the board. 73, Cliff, AE5ZA

I am helping a friend troubleshoot a QMX wired for 12 volts.? The rig will not power up unless the USB c cable is attached.? Remove the USB cable and the rig will not power up.? Thinking about

Hi Chris John is right. Luckily there are two other working LPF circuit blocks do use for reference. In answer to other question Q5 is probably OK and L9 would not be open if DC switching

Thanks for the suggestion, but looks like I have other issues. I took the unit out of the case and powered it up. Noticed that Q1 and Q6 got hot pretty fast. With a 12v power supply, I am drawing

Hello Phil Thanks very much for those kind words. I have built many of the kits in the past, not all without a hitch! I too hope I can announce it is working, alas I fear this one is not going to

I’ve been following this thread, and although I can’t add any ideas to try, I just wanted to let Ian know that I am rooting for him, and I really hope that this problem gets solved. Your

I received my QMX kit yesterday. One of the first things I did was check for the Q103/Q104 short. My kit DID have the short. I heated the AOD403 component with a small crafting heat gun and nozzle to

Chris , I took another look at your voltage readings. The 5.13 volts PIN reverse bias voltage looks very low! It should be higher than that in receive mode, and much higher in transmit mode as the TX

Here is my take on standalone wspr tx without gps. I am using NTP server via wifi connection for time. https://antrak.org.tr/blog/esp-wspr-simple-and-inexpensive-wspr-transmitter/ 73 Barb WB2CBA

You can use a browser to view <time.is> which will give you a very accurate time. ?Even if you have to manually input the time to your rig, you would likely be close enough to the correct time to

It would be similar to this technique to protect ADC inputs with a couple Schottky diodes: https://www.analog.com/en/technical-articles/protecting-adc-inputs.html

FYI I use my cell phone and have no issues!

*Hello Bruce and all, I think I will spend my last dime on transmitter and antenna and would not afford GPS. Is there any online clock which will transmit the GPS timing free . And I would not want to

Hi Mustafa Maybe look at the U3S. That is transmit-only, and with the addition of the QLG2, bullet-proof. Roger 8P6RX ?Get BlueMail for Android ?

I have a QCX +5W and it runs WSPR 24/7 You can set the clock manually after start up and you can afford to gain or lose a second before reception of your signal is a problem. ?Timing is controlled

*Hello there , I am optimizing everything for my condition. I looked at WSPR sites and found most contacts are for 20 meters band. I will build a 20 meters loop antenna for in room use or on balcony