开云体育

I squeezed the turns on L1 and L3 in, and reduced the power out to about .7-.8W. Then I separated the turns as much as I could, and got up to? 1.9W out. I'll swap out C25-28 and C30 with mica caps,

Extra points for built-from-components-level rigs would separate the kit builders from those who are willing to make their own PCBs and then populate them themselves.... ;-/ _._

Modern technology is wonderful, but it won’t keep you warm like a blazing old Collins or even a hybrid Kenwood 520. How about extra points for /p operation? Maybe a multiplier for icing factor? Just

oops, I just ordered mica caps, and included C30, since it's also band-specific. Think I should leave it as is, or add that one, since I'll have it?

Aaron, I had a similar problem. R27,R24&R17 interact with each other. It took a few tries but with a lot of turning on the resistors I found a sweet spot with a pronounced dip on each. It took awhile

Lloyd Try squeezing turns on the LPF toroids in and out. Possibly it will get you up to 3 watts on a 13.8 volt supply. Note this rig has 2 bs170, versus 3 in those rigs from kd1jv. Not sure why Hans

I changed only C25/C26. I suspect that it's probably good to get C27/C28 as well. mike/w1mt

would those caps be C25-28, or C25-30?

Hi Mikael, It went right over me early in the morning and I didn't hear it as it drifted further eastward.? It's going really fast!? Did I neglect to adjust my VFO to compensate for doppler shift??

Searching the archives here will provide lots of insight. Some have changed the caps in the LPF to better caps. I used silver mica. Use the same values. Others have changed the number of turns on the

Hi, Aaron R24 "adjusts the value of " R21. Since you are running out of range at the "open" end of R24, R21 isn't big enough. You can probably reach null by replacing R21 with an 8.2k, or if you are

Well, I was using my WM-2 wattmeter, but reading it wrong. Actual power out send to be 1.64W. What, if anything, can I try to increase that?

Ah well, we tried, Chris. It'll happen someday, Ill bet. I've made more QSOs on 30m than on any other band, using the stock QCX-17 at 4 watts to the downspout. CUL & 72 / 73, Bill, N4QA

So after the 1900z session on 30m? - regret no copy from you Bill N4QA but thanks anyway.? However, better than this afternoon, the session produced 4 QSOs, 3 Italian stations and 1 Spanish special

1300Z worked N0BPA (Tony in MO), AJ8S (Jim in OH), and N2JDQ (Steve in NY) with EF wire at 24 ft. 1900Z worked N2JDQ (Steve in NY), N0BPA (Tony in MO), AJ8S (Jim in OH), W0ITT (Gary in MO), and NJ8D

Had only 20 minutes to play. One QSO with K7TD. Heard WB5BKL very weakly but could not work. I also worked N1ZF but he was not operating the QCX Party (SOTA?). No QCX rig here but maybe some day.

40m, 2 qso's...both QCX OPS. It's too damn cold out to sit in 40F weather, and CQ for an hour with just 2 callers. I won't be on the late session...will simply be too cold to handle.? KE4RG & AJ8S,

The tune rate in the menu (3.4) is the startup tune rate. If you just want to dynamically change the tune rate, push the encoder. The second to last page in the document is a quick cheat sheet. Also,

oops. I just figured out how to adjust the tuning rate. never mind!

When I power up the rig, I am able to enter the menu and change the tuning rate. After that, if I want to change the rate again, I must power-cycle the rig. I am able to enter the menu and change the