Re: QCX Firmware Upgrade Problem With AVRDUDESS
Julian, I've just tried to run Zadig and install the drivers without a device even plugged into my machine and it installed the WinUSB driver anyway.?
So run Zadig, install the drivers one at a time and see if that makes any difference.?
WinUSB will be the default option to install first and written in the option window as WinUSB(v6.1.7600.16385)
This is the one that I think you need.!
Install this one first and give the AVRDUDESS and the arduino another go.?
All the best. James.?
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Hi Julian.?
I'm pretty useless with computers too and most other things. But, I muddle through and want to help where I can.?
Zadig is a driver installation program that is very useful to install devices like the USBasp or USBtiny. Google them both.?
I've also found it very useful to install the drivers for a cheap dongle for receiving TV pictures that I use to use SDR#.
Instal Zadig and run it.?
It will show a window.?
At the top select Options.?
Then select List all devices.?
With a USBasp or USBtiny plugged into your PC laptop etc, it will show the device plugged in, in the small window below the Device Options Help menu. Click on this small window and it will show all the devices it's capable of installing if they are plugged
in.?
Select the device and press the install driver button. You should then see the device in device manager in windows.?
This info is only relevant if you have these devices though admittedly.?
So as you're using the arduino method the write up you are following is excellent and I've also used this method too.?
AVRDUDESS does work on a 64bit windows 10 machine. I'm living proof of this as I'm sat in front of it right now and it is working.?
It also works in my XP machine that's some 13yrs old..!!!
I'm not using any sort of compatibility mode, just straight windows 10.
I've also read that the drivers need to be signed and you have to disable them...
I don't remember having to do this but if I had to and did, it's had no negative effect on my machine.?
On windows 10 I believe that if you do disable signing drivers to allow the drivers to install, then as soon as you reboot your machine it enables that option again by default.?
For the life of me though I can't remember doing this.!
If you haven't got a USBtiny then I'd personally start with this cheap device off the usual buying site and run Zadig to install it on your machine.?
What issues are you having with the arduino method in particular.?
I want you to make it work as it's an interesting part of the superb kit build and just completes the process making it easier to upgrade in future projects.?
Feel free to ask any more questions and the help will come and you will succeed.?
I've stuffed several Atmega328's up along the way but it's the only way to learn.?
Keep at it though.?
All the best for now and we look forward to hearing that you've managed to get it going.?
Cheers, James 2E0MUA.?
On 2 Nov 2017, at 23:01, Paul Schumacher via Groups.Io < wnpauls@...> wrote:
yes, it supposedly does, I tried it and it did not work.? The IT specialist at work
tried to fix it and could not.
Paul K0ZYV
From: Arv Evans <arvid.evans@...>
To:
[email protected]
Sent: Thursday, November 2, 2017 2:52 PM
Subject: Re: [QRPLabs] QCX Firmware Upgrade Problem With AVRDUDESS
Doesn't Windows-10 have a "compatibility mode" where it can run specified programs
as Windows-7 even though the OS is really Windows-10?
_._
|
Re: QCX Firmware Upgrade Problem With AVRDUDESS
Hi Julian.?
I'm pretty useless with computers too and most other things. But, I muddle through and want to help where I can.?
Zadig is a driver installation program that is very useful to install devices like the USBasp or USBtiny. Google them both.?
I've also found it very useful to install the drivers for a cheap dongle for receiving TV pictures that I use to use SDR#.
Instal Zadig and run it.?
It will show a window.?
At the top select Options.?
Then select List all devices.?
With a USBasp or USBtiny plugged into your PC laptop etc, it will show the device plugged in, in the small window below the Device Options Help menu. Click on this small window and it will show all the devices it's capable of installing if they are plugged
in.?
Select the device and press the install driver button. You should then see the device in device manager in windows.?
This info is only relevant if you have these devices though admittedly.?
So as you're using the arduino method the write up you are following is excellent and I've also used this method too.?
AVRDUDESS does work on a 64bit windows 10 machine. I'm living proof of this as I'm sat in front of it right now and it is working.?
It also works in my XP machine that's some 13yrs old..!!!
I'm not using any sort of compatibility mode, just straight windows 10.
I've also read that the drivers need to be signed and you have to disable them...
I don't remember having to do this but if I had to and did, it's had no negative effect on my machine.?
On windows 10 I believe that if you do disable signing drivers to allow the drivers to install, then as soon as you reboot your machine it enables that option again by default.?
For the life of me though I can't remember doing this.!
If you haven't got a USBtiny then I'd personally start with this cheap device off the usual buying site and run Zadig to install it on your machine.?
What issues are you having with the arduino method in particular.?
I want you to make it work as it's an interesting part of the superb kit build and just completes the process making it easier to upgrade in future projects.?
Feel free to ask any more questions and the help will come and you will succeed.?
I've stuffed several Atmega328's up along the way but it's the only way to learn.?
Keep at it though.?
All the best for now and we look forward to hearing that you've managed to get it going.?
Cheers, James 2E0MUA.?
On 2 Nov 2017, at 23:01, Paul Schumacher via Groups.Io < wnpauls@...> wrote:
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Show quoted text
yes, it supposedly does, I tried it and it did not work.? The IT specialist at work
tried to fix it and could not.
Paul K0ZYV
From: Arv Evans <arvid.evans@...>
To:
[email protected]
Sent: Thursday, November 2, 2017 2:52 PM
Subject: Re: [QRPLabs] QCX Firmware Upgrade Problem With AVRDUDESS
Doesn't Windows-10 have a "compatibility mode" where it can run specified programs
as Windows-7 even though the OS is really Windows-10?
_._
|
Re: QCX Firmware Upgrade Problem With AVRDUDESS
" What programming dongle are you using.?"
Hi James. I'm following the How To document from the QCX page of the QRP Labs site. It's written by Simon, VK3ELH. It uses an Arduino Uno as the programmer, with AVRDUDESS. The Arduino IDE works fine, I've programmed quite a few Arduino boards with it, so it's connecting to my PC okay. I've made up the jumper leads to go from the Uno to the QCX Trx as per the How To sheet. I'm afraid I'm not very good with computers. I don't have a computer with Windows 7 on it. I'll look at Zadig, but I've no idea what it is! Thanks for the encouragement. Best wishes, Julian G4ETS
?
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Re: Fabricated QCX chassis
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On Nov 3, 2017, at 9:49 AM, Ken wa4mnt < wa4mnt@...> wrote: The chassis shown below is homemade from double sided pcb FR4. Construction details are posted as the first item in the Misc. Files section of . If you see any typos, please let me know. 73, ken - wa4mnt <IMG_3584b.jpg>
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Re: Fabricated QCX chassis
**Very** neat !!
--
Regards/73,
Enno, PF5X
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Re: Fabricated QCX chassis
That is absolute beautiful
73 KB3CUF?
On Fri, Nov 3, 2017 at 12:49 PM, Ken wa4mnt <wa4mnt@...> wrote: The chassis shown below is homemade from double sided pcb FR4. Construction details are posted as the first item in the Misc. Files section of . If you see any typos, please let me know.
73,
ken - wa4mnt
|
The chassis shown below is homemade from double sided pcb FR4. Construction details are posted as the first item in the Misc. Files section of . If you see any typos, please let me know.
73,
ken - wa4mnt
|
Hello Chris,
I posted this reply earlier today to an unrelated post, for sure, you
need liquid flux and don't even think about unleaded solder!
"Perhaps consider getting one of the cheap Fox TCXO's? I use them in
U3S and they work great with GPS from a QLG1. They are a bit fiddly to
solder until you realize they aren't as delicate as they look and you
put four solder blobs on the PCB pads and on the pads of the Fox, then
fuse them together with a hot iron going around all four in
succession very rapidly. I have even used a crude hot air pen (gas
soldering pencil torch with the hot air tip on it) to remove and re-use
one from a dead board. I was amazed it survived the experience but it
was just as good as a new one!" 2E0ILY
Friday, November 3, 2017
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Hi All, Sorry if this question has been addressed before. Has anyone soldered the FOX924B-27.000 TXCO to the Synth board
using a standard soldering iron? From the datasheet, the TXCO pads
are under the chip and appear to require a hot air gun...but there
are small dimples in the corners of the chip. Can those be used to access the pins with an iron? Best,
Chris, VO1CKD_._,_._,_ -- 2E0ILY Best regards, Chris mailto:chris@...
--
Best regards, Chris Wilson (2E0ILY)
|
All good!? Eutectic solder just melts at a lower temp.? Lead free is a PITA.? Any liquid flux (rosin based is what I use) will do,? Flux makes it work.? As long as the part wets with flux, the solder will follow along.? No Flux wont work well.? I avoid the water wash versions, and use 91% alcohol and a toothbrush to clean up.
Larry?
On Fri, Nov 3, 2017 at 10:33 AM, Chris Dunnett via Groups.Io <chris_dunnett@...> wrote:
Thanks Larry. I'm looking forward to trying this.
I'm using kester 44 - 63/37, 0.8mm. Is there a noticeable difference between mine and 60/40?
Any recommendations for liquid flux? I've been looking at Quik-Chip's Tack Flux (digi-key SMD291ST2CC6-ND).
Best, Chris, VO1CKD
On Friday, November 3, 2017, 11:41:23 AM NDT, Larry Acklin < acklin@...> wrote:
Liquid Flux is key here.? 60/40 lead solder helps also.? Place a bit of flux on each pad of the PCB.? Use a very small amount of solder and tin one pad.? Re-apply flux to that pad.? Place the part, hold down, and apply heat to the tinned pad perimeter.? When the solder wets, the part will settle on.? Apply solder and heat to the remaining pads at the margin.? Go back and touch up with a bit of extra flux and solder so that the pad appears to be "wet".
The tiny tracks on the side of the chip may or may not be needed.? On an SI570 the ends are critical.
I've had 100% success with this method.
73 Larry KB3CUF
|
Thanks Larry. I'm looking forward to trying this.
I'm using kester 44 - 63/37, 0.8mm. Is there a noticeable difference between mine and 60/40?
Any recommendations for liquid flux? I've been looking at Quik-Chip's Tack Flux (digi-key SMD291ST2CC6-ND).
Best, Chris, VO1CKD
On Friday, November 3, 2017, 11:41:23 AM NDT, Larry Acklin <acklin@...> wrote:
Liquid Flux is key here.? 60/40 lead solder helps also.? Place a bit of flux on each pad of the PCB.? Use a very small amount of solder and tin one pad.? Re-apply flux to that pad.? Place the part, hold down, and apply heat to the tinned pad perimeter.? When the solder wets, the part will settle on.? Apply solder and heat to the remaining pads at the margin.? Go back and touch up with a bit of extra flux and solder so that the pad appears to be "wet".
The tiny tracks on the side of the chip may or may not be needed.? On an SI570 the ends are critical.
I've had 100% success with this method.
73 Larry KB3CUF
On Fri, Nov 3, 2017 at 10:02 AM, Chris Dunnett via Groups.Io <chris_dunnett@...> wrote: Hi All,
Sorry if this question has been addressed before.
Has anyone soldered the FOX924B-27.000 TXCO to the Synth board using a standard soldering iron? From the datasheet, the TXCO pads are under the chip and appear to require a hot air gun...but there are small dimples in the corners of the chip. Can those be used to access the pins with an iron?
Best, Chris, VO1CKD
|
Liquid Flux is key here.? 60/40 lead solder helps also.? Place a bit of flux on each pad of the PCB.? Use a very small amount of solder and tin one pad.? Re-apply flux to that pad.? Place the part, hold down, and apply heat to the tinned pad perimeter.? When the solder wets, the part will settle on.? Apply solder and heat to the remaining pads at the margin.? Go back and touch up with a bit of extra flux and solder so that the pad appears to be "wet".
The tiny tracks on the side of the chip may or may not be needed.? On an SI570 the ends are critical.
I've had 100% success with this method.
73 Larry KB3CUF
On Fri, Nov 3, 2017 at 10:02 AM, Chris Dunnett via Groups.Io <chris_dunnett@...> wrote: Hi All,
Sorry if this question has been addressed before.
Has anyone soldered the FOX924B-27.000 TXCO to the Synth board using a standard soldering iron? From the datasheet, the TXCO pads are under the chip and appear to require a hot air gun...but there are small dimples in the corners of the chip. Can those be used to access the pins with an iron?
Best, Chris, VO1CKD
|
Hi All,
Sorry if this question has been addressed before.
Has anyone soldered the FOX924B-27.000 TXCO to the Synth board using a standard soldering iron? From the datasheet, the TXCO pads are under the chip and appear to require a hot air gun...but there are small dimples in the corners of the chip. Can those be used to access the pins with an iron?
Best, Chris, VO1CKD
|
If you look on Internet you can find ribbon cable that will accept 2.54mm and they are already constructed. They come in many lead counts.
Marc
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On Nov 3, 2017, at 08:39, Daniel Ekman (kng) < knegge@...> wrote: Regarding the leads to the display, I would suggest using ribbon cable to keep the leads close together. The ones used for floppies and older harddrives is half the spacing as the pin header. Cut a longer piece than you need and splice them a bit longer to spread them out and cut them to the proper length to fit the pin header. Try to keep them together as much as possible. If there's interference you could experiment with further grounding or isolating the display from the case.
The "newer" ATA133 cables has doubled the number of leads and every second wire is grounded. It's possible to implement this tactic with the 0.05" ribbon cables and 0.1" pin headers as well, but would probably be a bit messy (:
|
Re: : [QRPLabs] 11. Potentiometer tuning for the Ultimate3
Hi all and Hans, Sorry if this is all repeated but I was not seeing any responses and when I checked the group ¡®messages¡¯ section, they did not show up. ? Anyone else seen this U3 potentiometer ¡®tune¡¯ modification problem with v3.12? ? I have tried this mod on two U3S rigs now and got the same effect (cant tune down- LF in any mode menu Tn=1, or menu runs repeatedly if disabled using Tn=0). The last time I used this successfully was v3.09. ? 73 Ken G4APB ? ? Hi Hans, I have been analysing this problem by setting my U3S to transmit the Analogue input channels 0-4 & 8 using the MESSAGE menu and TX CW mode. An undocumented feature I found is the actual analogue value is briefly shown on the display while it is being transmitted. Results; With Tn=0 CH0 = 1023 (Band 1 relay) CH1 = 1017 (Switch S2) CH2 =? 925 ¡®Switch S1/TUNE¡¯ pot at max, 511 pot at centre, can¡¯t measure below this as menu runs CH3 = 1023 (Band 5 relay) CH4 = 000 (pin 27) CH8 = wide variation each time (internal temp) but around 290-350. With Tn=1 CH2 = 556 pot in any position. (Menu run not affected). ? BTW, ¡®CW¡¯ mode selected just jams the Tx on immediately and the only way out of this is a full RESET. ? Hope this helps Hans. ? 73 Ken G4APB ?
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of KENS 2ND ACC via Groups.Io
Sent: 02 November 2017 08:49
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [QRPLabs] 11. Potentiometer tuning for the Ultimate3 ? Hi Hans, If you get a chance to consider the problems I mentioned earlier, here is some more data; ? If I disable the Tune pot (Tn=0 in menu), and set the tune pot to anything lower than mid setting, the menu runs through as if switch S1 is pressed. How do you programme for this conflict, is there a voltage level at which the A-D input on S1 decides whether it is a switch press or a minimum pot setting? As I said, I measure approx 0.5V on S1 with Tune pot at minimum, and approx 4.5V at max setting, and 2.5V in centre position, so it is seeing less than 2.5V = switch pressed. I would have expected it to see anything above 0.5V as a pot setting only, and below that as a switch press. ? FYI, I replaced the S2 switch with a combo push-pull switch/linear pot so I can still set the menu up, jam it on tx (ptt) for testing, AND have the tune pot all on the QRP labs case front panel. Was a mechanical nightmare to fit (is bigger than your rotary encoder), but looks good now. After so much effort I am keen to get this working. 73 Ken G4APB. ? From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of KENS 2ND ACC via Groups.Io
Sent: 01 November 2017 17:07
To: [email protected]
Subject: [QRPLabs] 11. Potentiometer tuning for the Ultimate3 ? Hi Hans,
I added the U3S section 11. Potentiometer tuning for the Ultimate3?modifications to my v3.12 version but am getting problems. This is a U3S Transceiver using standard U3 Tx with relay switched LPFs and a standard Rx module with Polyphase board and 7MHz BPF fitted.
I have set Tn mode = 1 in the menu.
Problems are;
1) Upward frequency tuning only in Tx WSPR mode. I can hear clicking on my monitor Rx when the Tune pot is turned to min but the frequency does not go lower.
2) In RX mode, upward movement of displayed frequency only, but it does not actually change the LO frequency (using 7mhz band). NO downward frequency either.
3) Loud clicking on Rx audio once pot is away from centre setting (in freq up or down positions)
I measure approx 0.5V on S1 with Tune pot at minimum, and approx 4.5V at max setting, and 2.5V in centre position.
Both S1 and S2 switches functioning ok.
I tried a complete 'RESET' and re-configured all my settings
I have used a 10k linear tune pot with 1k resistors.
Any ideas what may be wrong please.
73 Ken G4APB _._,_._,_
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Re: Shaft diameter of potmeter and rotary encoder
Hi Enno
Both 6.0mm
73 Hans G0UPL
On Fri, Nov 3, 2017 at 3:11 PM, Enno Korma <enno.pf5x@...> wrote: Can someone give me the shaft diameters of the encoder and volume potmeter ? Guess it's 6mm but it might be 6.35mm as well. I like to know because I want to order some bigger knobs ...
Thanks in advance !
--
Regards/73,
Enno, PF5X
|
Regarding the leads to the display, I would suggest using ribbon cable to keep the leads close together. The ones used for floppies and older harddrives is half the spacing as the pin header. Cut a longer piece than you need and splice them a bit longer to spread them out and cut them to the proper length to fit the pin header. Try to keep them together as much as possible. If there's interference you could experiment with further grounding or isolating the display from the case.
The "newer" ATA133 cables has doubled the number of leads and every second wire is grounded. It's possible to implement this tactic with the 0.05" ribbon cables and 0.1" pin headers as well, but would probably be a bit messy (:
|
Shaft diameter of potmeter and rotary encoder
Can someone give me the shaft diameters of the encoder and volume potmeter ? Guess it's 6mm but it might be 6.35mm as well. I like to know because I want to order some bigger knobs ...
Thanks in advance !
--
Regards/73,
Enno, PF5X
|
Re: Measured U3S power on 2200-160m
Hello Paul,
Perhaps consider getting one of the cheap Fox TCXO's? I use them in
U3S and they work great with GPS from a QLG1. They are a bit fiddly to
solder until you realise they aren't as delicate as they look and you
put four solder blobs on the PCB pads and on the pads of the Fox, then
fuse them together with a hot iron going around all four in
successionm rapidly. I have even used a crude hot air pen (gas
soldering pencil torch with the hot air tip on it) to remove and re-use
one from a dead board. I was amazed it survived the experience but it
was just as good as a new one! 2E0ILY
Thursday, November 2, 2017
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I am pleased to report I finally found time to "finish" my U3S
build. Well, almost. I haven't built the OCXO yet. Truth is, I
probably don't need it anyway since I have the QLG1 and will only be
using this on the low bands mentioned. When I start running QRSS I
will find out soon enough! During the build I asked if anyone had thoughts on T1 for optimized
performance on these bands. There was no feedback. After fiddling
with a bifilar wound core trying to make it lay flat (to accommodate
the OCXO) and look nice I scrapped that and just went with a single
25 turn winding. I've just measured power output at 240 mW on 2200m,
260 mW on 630m, and 350 mW on 160m. I can live with that since I
will be using it to drive an outboard amplifier. My measurements
should be fairly accurate. I used a well calibrated oscilloscope to
measure voltage across a precision 50 ohm load. Since output is
lower on the lower bands, I suspect some optimization could be
done... either by going to the bifilar winding and/or substituting a
core of different material. At the moment I an not inclined to
pursue that. 73,
Paul N1BUG, WI2XTC -- 2E0ILY Best regards, Chris mailto:chris@...
--
Best regards, Chris Wilson (2E0ILY)
|
Thank you everyone for the replies... I think my original post may have misled some of you. What I was trying to accomplish with my original post was to explain that I was new to building radios, but, what I really wanted to know was: How much interference could be created by mounting the LCD screen off of the main PCB as mentioned in the instruction manual? What type of shielded wire would be needed to negate or cancel the interference? Would the breadboard wire suffice? And if the breadboard wire wouldn't work was there a home-brew shielding solution for this problem? etc.
After viewing some of the other photographs in the Builders gallery I see that at least one other builder used long(er) sections of wire to make the connections between the PCB and LCD module so it must not cause that much interference. Since I have the male to female breadboard cables already I will test the difference between the two mounting options and see if there is a measurable and/or noticeable difference between the two. I will update this post with my findings.
But, first things first - I'm still waiting to get the radio in the mail and get it all put together! (:
Thanks again!
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QRPLabs has the edge over Apple
While QRPLabs with its QCX tranciever and Apple with its IPhone X are both on
long delivery times. QRPLabs' QCX is a mere ?990 cheaper.
Its not just the 'small' producers that have difficultiies in the supply and
demand.
I hate fruit.....
|
Joel Caulkins/N6ALT
Enno Korma, PF5X
Daniel Ekman SA2KNG
John Asmussen
Mike