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It has already the AGC board, see just below the "s" of Labs. 73 - Pierre - FK8IH

Thank you for posting. Really enjoyed a peek into Han’s world and creative problem solving. Dave

One person's experience: I use a current and voltage limited supply when first testing kits. However, after I confirm that all is working properly, I go to battery power thereafter. All of my

Yes Stan, that is the scenario. When listening on headphones to relatively weak signals in, for instance LSB mode...to change to another mode you can only click forward passing through Digi mode. In

The price of success! My Factory built QMX hiband can be in your hands in a week or so. 12- volt build, enclosure, .027 installed. Works perfectly. Email sfab43@ho**ail.com for more info. Steve

Enjoy https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bsDBcFXgHbY 73 DE muhsin TA1MHS

I don't do that because some wire has enamel that just doesn't melt. Also, it smells like feet! I use a box cutter and scrape it off. I also use the Crochet Lock method to wind them. On the T41,

Randy, a couple of comments that I can give. 1) I have 2 QMX+ and 2 QMX (one low-band rev1, one mid-band rev3).? Each of these units had quite different looking plots for some bands of the

This does happen sometimes. I recall some years ago, when I was building a Heyphone, and checking each component before I fitted it, I found that an entire batch of resistors labelled 4.3 K were in

Sounds like you lost some connections to your front panel/display board.? Try re-seating the front panel in its connectors.? (Display and backlight are powered by 5V supply, and I think top row

Not correct: a solder joint may be 'ok' for DC but poor for RF (or vice-versa).? Reflowing a solder joint, especially for the toroid wires that had enamel on them, can burn off the enamel around the

My QMX+ was working but when I powered it on this morning the display backlight is not on and the display shows a row of black blocks. Does anyone have any thoughts on where to start troubleshooting.

With only one LPF installed, it is hard to know whether the fault is 'global' for all bands, or just in the one LPF - so it is harder to know where to look. If you measure resistance from cathode

Roy, I use a solder pot. The only warning is that the temperature will need some adjusting for the different sizes and types of magnet wire. If it’s too high, not only does it take off the enamel it

Gently scrape the enamel, then tin it with solder. Nothing special required. I scrape mine with sharp dikes. Once it's damaged the heat of soldering finishes it.

Joe, It is most often not useful to try and supply external 3.3V VDD - because the most common failures of 3.3V supply would also make an external supply not work. With QMX+ and over-voltage, here are

Does anyone use Solder pots for tinning and removing the enamel from the toroid leads? Any hints and tips? I see a cheap one on Amazon for about $20. Any suggestions if I should buy special solder for

Yes, instales from the beguining and continuity test from the dummy load to the T507 73 azgael

Finished my QMX+ build (9v), applied power - no smoke! Put the latest firmware on and started playing. Receiver works well, but when I run Diagnostics, the Bias SMPS shows fluctuating current (in

When testing my newly built QMX+ I was getting high SWR readings while running the diagnostics SWR test. Even when connected to a dummy load the readings were around 2.7 to 1 across all bands. I