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On Mon, May 20, 2024 at 09:03 PM, Bruce wrote:

0.42 amps at 9 volts is the receive condition (Idle?) of the radio.

Bruce, tooooo much. Around 130 mA @ 9 V is ok.

screen dumps of terminal - Diagnostics

may provide some more information.

73, Ludwig

Thanks for the confirmation ??

Yes, it means you do NOT want a short there.? The Rev. 1 board was very close there and easy to short.? The gap has since been increased.

Ken

Ludwig,? 0.42 amps at 9 volts is the receive condition (Idle?) of the radio.? Transmit draws about 1.02 amps.? I measure about 4 watts, give or take my meter's accuracy!? I'll work on the dumps later today.
???? Bruce

Thanks very much, Ludwig.
-Bill

Looking for clarification on page 55 step 6 of the build manual where you are to install the male and female 90deg header pins.

At the end of step 6 it says that the pin "nearest the +12v pin of the dc power connector is NOT supposed to be connected ". Am I correct in assuming this means that it is NOT supposed to connect to the +12v pin? But IS supposed to be soldered to its own location in the main board? Essentially just meaning make sure you do NOT bridge across to the +12v. Thanks.

Yep. Ticket on for me also as I forgot to add the QLG3 to my QMX+ order. No big deal if I have to order it separately but would be nice a) to get it all together and b) to save on shipping.

Well someone has to say it .....how about "Let's Twist Again" by Chubby Checker!

Brian G3ZOH

On Mon, May 20, 2024 at 01:36 PM, Hans Summers wrote:

Hello Jim

?

To be clear: QMX and QMX+ both run the exact same firmware. There's no difference except configuration parameters (the setup of the Band Configuration screen). Like we have 80-20, 60-15 and 20-10, now you will see "QMX+ 160-6m" and that will set up the Band Configuration with the correct settings for the QMX+.

?

QMX has twice as many toroids. Which is a matter of patience, not difficulty. But other than that, QMX+ is easier to build because:

?

1. A lot more spacious, less dense component placement.?

?

2. I designed it so that there are no SMDs in the whole back half of the board where you solder the toroids and capacitors. So the soldering is easy and you don't risk damaging or dislodging SMDs.?

?

3. The filters are symmetrically placed. All the diodes point the same way, etc. so it's easier to get it right.?

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4. Three of the band pass filter toroids have only one tap, not one large T50 toroid with 3 taps.?

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5. The toroid size for the LPFs etc is T37 which is easier to grip than the T30 size in QMX.?

?

73 Hans G0UPL

?

Now that is attention to detail Hans. Especially aspects such as easier to work with toroids and keeping the area of heavy soldering clear of anything else.?

I really enjoyed building the OG QMX but it was very fiddly. I'm hoping when the QMX+ I'll be able to do a really FB job and do a really nice build :)

On Mon, May 20, 2024 at 01:15 AM, Bruce wrote:

I forgot to mention that I do hear the sidetone on transmit.

Bruce, so we know the section from controller to audio out is ok.

Reading your post made some new questions:

Voltage/Current on RV (measured with external meter) 9V/0.42a

Could you explain please "RV"?
0.42 A in which situation, RX or TX?

Could you show please three screen dumps of terminal - Diagnostics, without a key, with key "P" depressed and with key "T". And please notify the current and the output for each.

73, Ludwig

For what reason is clean and stable power needed?

Surely the whole point of a GPS controlled clock is that it gets its timing signals from the GPS signals and therefore the power source, assuming it to be 'normal' mains and a PSU of adequate and correct voltage/ampage? ?should be perfectly adequate.

I love that music theme that keeps recurring here on the QMX+ thread (magic man, etc)! This is a good group of interesting global composition (pun intended).

Perfect! Thank you so much!

I'm a fan of the butane torch method for the thicker wires.? If I don't have the torch handy, I take it over to my gas stove and carefully do it there.
--
Bill Harbour
K4VIB

Sorry, meant 5-181.

The same tool is also sold as Bernstein 5-182. Costs only a few bucks and just amazing to strip enamel. I've done many kit builds with that tool, all worked flawlessly.