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Re: QLG2 $ Ultimate 3S

 

Im building? the U3S now and was thinking of dropping the 5v main through a diode to the super cap pads with the idea that as long as its plugged into power, it will hold its place.
?
Does this sound reasonable?
?
I read about using a coin battery, say a 2032 but at 3v that seems kinda on the low end. I did try a 2 AA holder on my qrp-labs clock, but voltage drop thru the diode allowed even lower voltage and only a short while of support. By morning the gps had to start from scratch anyway, so I dropped that idea.. Maybe my AAs were on the way down already. Or my diode choice had too much leakage??
--
regards,
Bryan, N0LUF


Re: iPhone camera adapter, receive but no send?

 

Thanks for getting back to me!?

No practice mode is disabled. I’m able to transmit when I plug into my laptop no issues.
?
I will briefly see the microphone icon in the upper left of my phone, so I’m pretty sure the receiving side is good to go.?

I shouldn’t hear any sound right? That’s not just an artifact of iFTX?


Re: Has anyone built the 10 watt PA kit and used it with the QMX?

 

Skipping past "no one will ever hear the difference at the other end"

You could certainly build a more powerful power amp stage into the QMX circuit.? ?You might find yourself upgrading other components (LPF's, TX RX switching etc).? ?From my experience the 10W linear is not flat gain over the full HF bands so programable or frequency contoured attenuation might still be needed and that might need a T501 /buffer/amp stage.? ?The power control part will certainly need re working and that's probably not as easy as it sounds

Overall I think you'd need to build the QMX board into the same box as a PA board and that would make it a lot less neat and tidy and considerably hotter so throw a fan in too.

So in short - just connect them together? NO
Just bridge the 10W pa board into the QMX plus PA stage space? ?Complicated
Remove the 10W PA's drivers and feed the QMX+ PA output there before returning to the switched LPF's Also complicated, still needs adjustable /contoured attenuating etc?

In short if you want to use the QMX+ and 10W PA circuits /boards as the source / inspiration for a quite complicated project and have the necessary knowledge and test gear it is possible to build a 'QMX+10W'? ?However if you have the necessary knowledge and test gear you probably wouldn't need to ask? . .?

Lets end with "no one will ever hear the difference at the other end"


Re: iPhone camera adapter, receive but no send?

 

I’ll ask the obvious: is CW “practice mode” enabled? That’ll prevent transmit.?


Re: Has anyone built the 10 watt PA kit and used it with the QMX?

 

On 26/02/2025 08:38, Muhsin TA1MHS via groups.io wrote:
we lose the amplitude modulation
use transistors with lower voltage
it is solveable
Oh! Yes no SSB or power control without extra modification.
That makes the idea very experimental.


Re: Has anyone built the 10 watt PA kit and used it with the QMX?

 

On 26/02/2025 08:17, Muhsin TA1MHS via groups.io wrote:
use 74ACT68D's output to drive the 10Watt PA?
Muhsin

That does seem possible.
I do not think this has been suggested before so it would be experimental.
At higher voltage it will give 20 watts, worth considering.

73 Alan G4ZFQ


Re: Has anyone built the 10 watt PA kit and used it with the QMX?

 

2nd thought
we lose the amplitude modulation
use transistors with lower voltage
it is solveable
73 DE muhsin TA1MHS
?


Re: Has anyone built the 10 watt PA kit and used it with the QMX?

 

Hi
What if
You take the power transistors out?
and?
use 74ACT68D's output to drive the 10Watt PA?
Through the LPFs of course
73 DE muhsin TA1MHS


Re: Has anyone built the 10 watt PA kit and used it with the QMX?

 

On 26/02/2025 04:42, Don via groups.io wrote:
I’m curious if anyone has built the 10 watt HF linear PA kit and successfully used it with their QMX or QMX+? Will it work if/when ssb is enabled on the QMX?
Don,

This has been discussed many times.
It is not suitable, with a maximum input of 30mW it has too much gain. A QMX is 3000-5000+mW

73 Alan G4ZFQ


Re: CW Sidetone Distortion After Repair

 

Thanks Ron! I sent you an email so we can set it up.


Re: Poor Mans ESD Safe Work Surface

 

On Tue, Feb 25, 2025 at 06:16 PM, Corey KC9RAV wrote:
assembling a QRP labs kit doesn’t require ESD protection. It doesn’t hurt, but there isn’t any major ESD risk.?
And that is why some people have failures in their assembly, or after operating for a time (due to a weakened part).
There is indeed ESD risk.
Yes, the ESD risk is minimized since most of the parts have ESD protection on their input pins, and are pre-assembled onto the CCA.?
And the risk is not as critical (like Jerry mentioned) since we are hobbyists, not making mission critical gear - and we can easily fix it if it breaks.
?
But the highly integrated parts in the Q*X with fine internal lithograpy (all of the ICs except the 3.3V regulator) can indeed be damaged with careless handling.?? ESD may not cause failure immediately, but may weaken a part that may then fail later.? Yes, even with the ESD protection on their pins - it just takes a larger ESD event.? The pins are typically ESD protected to 2000V, which protects well if handled carefully.? But picking up a styrofoam coffee cup from your work table and brushing it against the cuff of your shirt can generate well over 20,000 volts of static on your hands - then touching one of those devices without discharging yourself will indeed damage it.? Thankfully most of us don't use styrofoam on or near our work surfaces, but many other materials, including carpeting, the covering on your chair, your chair's roller wheels, and even your clothing can readily generate high static charges, unless these materials are of the anti-static variety.? And how many of us have checked??
?
Sorry for the tirade, but I had to take ESD refresher training every 6 mo during much of my career.? And it was interesting to learn of the common materials and simple body movements that can generate static tens of times greater than the typical 2000V ESD protected device can withstand.? So unless you know you are safe, use an ESD mat and ground yourself after moving or wear a wrist strap.? Assembly areas where I worked have chairs and floors that are known not to generate static.? And we still had to wear our wrist bands or shoe straps, and work on ESD mats that were tested and qualified every 3 mo.? Yes we worked on mission critical devices, and we had to avoid all ESD risk, unlike hobbyists.?
?
After the item is assembled, the risk is lower, because there are many paths to dissipate ESD, and you usually don't directly touch an ESD sensitive device without previously discharging the ESD through a benign path.? And maybe that's why we don't often kill the ICs in qrp-labs kits.
?
But please don't believe that there isn't any ESD risk unless you are specifically minimizing it in some way.
?
Stan KC7XE


Re: Poor Mans ESD Safe Work Surface

 

My two cents, assembling a QRP labs kit doesn’t require ESD protection. It doesn’t hurt, but there isn’t any major ESD risk.?


Re: Poor Mans ESD Safe Work Surface

 

On Tue, Feb 25, 2025 at 11:24 AM, Stan Dye wrote:
On Tue, Feb 25, 2025 at 05:17 AM, spaine wrote:
A good ESD work surface is conductive
The correct word here would be "dissipative" - something that quickly dissipates static charge, but has a very high resistance to normal electrical currents.??
?
As Allison said, inexpensive ESD mats are safer, and they are easy to get and use.? And even the $20 ones on Amazon, complete with wrist strap, will last a very long time.? I encourage all assemblers of qrp-labs kits to get one and use it.
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Hello Stan,
?
Might have been a misunderstanding here: Desco are in the business of ESD protection, and the disposable cardboard ESD mats I mentioned have a surface resistance of 10^6 to 10^8 ohms per square (). ?That's what I meant by "conductive but not too conductive." ?I do like them better than silicone mats.
?
Scott


Re: Poor Mans ESD Safe Work Surface

 

On Tue, Feb 25, 2025 at 05:43 PM, Bryan Curl wrote:
the 1mohm resistor Don Brant mentioned is important for the purpose of allowing static charge to go to ground somewhat slowly in order to not make a spark.
It is also a personal safety item, in series with the wrist strap it limits your current to ground in the event you contact a hot wire; it is best not to have a grounded conductor around your wrist when working with electricity.
73, Don N2VGU


Re: Recommendations for solder temps and workstation

 

Jim,


For the temperature of your soldering iron: it depends on the solder you want or need to use/melt and not on the components.

I once learned that lead solder (60/40, LSn60Pb, ??) with flux is rated for 370°C and I guess most components, PCBs, etc could be heated way longer than an ordinary solderjoint needs to without taking damage. Exceptions are of course wire insulation, anything plastic, they can melt/retract more quickly than we asked for and require swift action.

The power of the soldering iron is directly related to the time it needs to heat to the desired temp, then it cuts off, the tip cools down, heats up, repeatedly. If yours says 40W, it could be well over it, it's more of a minimum the manufactorer would like to guarantee. I would give it a try first with a 3mm chisel tip.

I used an older Weller/50W Magnastat with a 3mm chisel/370°C tip and it worked with my QMX+. Solder is 60/37 with flux, 1.5mm. Even with extended heating I couldn't get other joints in close distance to melt.

If you have further questions regarding soldering, I'd be happy to answer them.

73, Norbert


Re: Recommendations for solder temps and workstation

 

I too have bought bad Chinese irons.? The first one I bought showed the "intended" temperature,
from the moment you plugged it in, giving no idea how hot the tip really was.
It was also too weak to deal with something like the QMX ground plane connections.
?
This one addressed both those issues: ?
?
A well chosen Weller or Hakko might work better, at 10x the cost.
There might well be Chinese irons out there that are of equal quality, but not at $16
?
Jerry, KE7ER?
?
?
?
On Tue, Feb 25, 2025 at 01:43 PM, Bruce Akhurst wrote:

I do have a '60W' Chinese temperature controlled iron in the car for unexpected emergencies.


Re: Poor Mans ESD Safe Work Surface

 

In a high value manufacturing environment, you do everything you can to avoid static damage.
Even rarely occuring failures can cost big money, perhaps even the loss of a large sale.
I think most hobbyists are a bit more relaxed than that.
?
I'd bet an honest survey of Q*X kit builders would find that less than half have a static mat.
Most of the parts we use are either not inherently sensitive to static or they have protection
devices at each IO pin.? Protection is typically a Schottky diode from pin to ground and another?
from pin to Vdd, these discharge any hit that exceeds normal signal voltages.
?
I guess the most sensitive part that we regularly work with would be the gate of the BS170's.
Be especially careful with static control when replacing those.? Once parts are soldered down
to the board, they are usually connected to other stuff that helps discharge a static hit.
?
When I approach sensitive gear, I first touch a ground point to bring the device to the same potential?
as my body.? If static is in the air, I continue touching that equipment ground while working on it
as much as I can. Static sensitive parts such as the BS170's should be kept in the anti-static?
bag till you are ready to solder them into place.? If you first touch the bag (perhaps to open it)
before touching the sensitive part, no damage will occur. Then with the other hand I'd touch
the equipment ground before bringing the part to the equipment.? If you follow procedures?
such as this, most hobbyists should not have trouble with static damage.??
?
My workbench does have a static mat, but I am not always at my workbench.
When at my bench, I generally don't strap in with a wrist strap, but instead lay an arm across
the static mat to establish a connection.??
?
Now retired, but at work in an engineering environment, we generally followed procedures
like those above without getting yelled at.? It was generally our own design, and if something
were to fail we were well qualified to fix it.? I can't think of a single case where I felt I had
caused static damage over several decades of work.? Procedures in manufacturing
were somewhat more strict.
?
On freezing winter days here, I can often draw a quarter inch spark when reaching out to pet
the cat after walking across the room.? Thats a sign to be especially careful about static.
On a muggy summer afternoon, it would be tough to cause static damage if you tried.
?
When designing a board I often add a series resistor of perhaps 100 ohms to each sensitive
IO pin that goes out to a customer accessable connector if that won't compromise the intended
purpose.? The combination of the series resistor plus the protection diodes makes it pretty much?
bullet proof, unless they plug that wire into a wall socket.
?
Jerry, KE7ER
?


Re: WSJT-X with QMX

 

I had to use 4.6.2 hamlib it solved my QMX issues 4.6.1 hamlib QMX is broken.


Re: CW Sidetone Distortion After Repair

 

Hi Justin. I’d be happy to repair that for you if you like. I’ll write you off the group with details.?

Ron

On Tue, Feb 25, 2025 at 15:50 Justin Murphy via <jmsconsulting=[email protected]> wrote:
Thanks for the reply, Ron!
?
Yes, I really meant C31. I think what happened is I actually broke half of the component off the board with the clamp I use for soldering. It was clamped on the side of the board nearest C31 and I wasn't careful when I clamped it and broke half the component right off the pad.?
?
Since I made this post, I actually gave it a little tug with a plastic tweezers and the whole capacitor came right off the board. I think I lifted the solder pads right off the board when I attempted my "repair." I had the soldering iron cranked up to max temp to desolder those big headphone jack pads and I didn't turn it back down when I patched C31.?
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So, I've created a bit more of a headache for myself now.?
?
But: It gets even worse. I decided I'd make a temporary repair by jumpering a thru-hole capacitor between R41 and the nearest neighbor to C31 and I lifted R41 right off the board too. Burnt the SMD pads right off again, even with lower power. I guess I'm terrible at SMD repairs.
?
Any suggestions for repairing this? I guess I need to find a way to replace R41 and C31 without any pads left now. I could scrape away some solder mask and try to wire a few thru-hole components in series, but for now I've just given up.


iPhone camera adapter, receive but no send?

 

Hey all!
?
Just got a cheap lightning to usb “camera adapter” to try to do some ft8 while on lunch break using iFTX.?

I’ve noticed I can receive and decode ft8 no problem, but when I call cq audio only comes out my phone and doesn’t go into the radio.?

I have VOX enabled and all other settings are standard. Is there some config item in the radio I’m missing?
?
72
Jeff
KB3TVP
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Adapter in question:
IVSHOWCO Lightning to USB Adapter... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09H2PZTG2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share