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Re: nothing happening
You need to do some fault finding?
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Your description of the issue is suggesting too low a resistance exists between the USB power wires at switch on?
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A thermal camera would be a good aid here but a multimeter checking resistances vs schematic will get you there too. ?(Check you know which of your meter probes provides positive voltage for these tests (test a diode)) ? |
nothing happening
Just builded the qmx but no life.
It draws no current ?but switching on draws 150mA. Looks like the rotary encoder works.
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The USB was complaining that the port was asking too much power so Mac M2 stopped the port.
USB quicly came up and after 10 seconds down.
Now nothing at all any more.
Tried an old Windows pc nothing happens.
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Soldered the two 5k1 resistors on the usb but did not helped.
Touched the usb solderings with some extra solder.
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Checked all soldering with a loup 20 times, no faults found.
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Does any one has an idea what i can check or has measurement points i can check like the two power supply pcb 3.3 and 5v?
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73 hanz YL3JD |
Re: 60-15m QMX Kit build - No RX on 60 through 20 (Success!!)
I sat down and did some methodical analysis on my 60/40 RX and TX not working.? After double checking the RX section I looked at the input and output of the BPF on an O-scope while running the BPF test and found there was input but no output on 60/40m BPF.? Checked continuity on the inductor solder pads and found that neither had continuity.? Re-applied soldering iron, checked continuity and re-ran the RF Filter and BPF tests. Bingo!? My QMX receives and transmits on all bands and I made a successful 20m QSO today.
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Below are the results:
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RF Filter tests:
:
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BPF Tests:
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Brien - KE7WB |
Poor 20m Performance w/RF Sweep
Hello,
I just built the 10/12/15/17/20m version of the QRP Labs QDX digital transceiver (revision 5). I used the QRP Labs QDX website manuals and watched a multitude of YouTube build videos before and during my build. The inventory, component placement, soldering, and testing went well. I used a 5x desk mounted magnifying glass, 40w Weller conical tip soldering iron, liquid flux, and 62/36/2 solder. Unfortunately, the RF Sweep result for my 20m band doesn't look right. The operating manual indicates that the RF Sweep should display a peak at the band marker. Unfortunately, my RF Sweep shows a flat spot for most of 20m. I looked through the QRP Labs QDX trouble-shooting page, re-tested the test points for L12 (page 27 in the build manual) and everything tested good. I decided to apply my soldering iron to the L12, L6, and L2 soldering pads for 15 seconds each to make sure that any remaining enamel would be burned off (if any existed). After which, I ran the RF Sweep again. Although my output changed a tiny bit, it doesn't look anything like what's depicted in the manual. I'm not really sure what to do at this point. I've counted and recounted the number of turns on L12, L2 and L6; they look correct to me. I was SUPER careful when soldering, there are no burns or other soldering mishaps on the board. I'd really appreciate any help the community could provide. Cordially, Rob, AH6X P.S. - I converted this post to a webpage to make it easier to look through. |
Re: Help learning QMX CW filter settings?
Steve & Group, Good, to the point video. 73 W6CJ On Mon, Jan 6, 2025 at 2:26?AM Steve G4EDG via <g4edg=aol.com_at_groups.io_lastradioman@...> wrote:
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Re: Best QMX AGC settings?
Dan,
I am a retired EE, and easily 50 years a ham. I know about band conditions, have experienced a lot of different receivers, and through the conscientious use of PPE, have ears that still work properly. I spent most of my career designing hardware and software for embedded systems, and in the course of so doing, wrote tons and tons of "C" and assembler code. I "get" the signal path of SDR's, and I don't think my situation has anything to do with hardware, or my ears. What we are talking about, is 40m on a day when the ambient noise level was 1 to 1.5 bars, when something happened that caused every signal on the band to have its audio tone hard clipped by what sounded like random noise. Initially, I thought it was some overdriven CW transmitters... But it was way too many. This situation only happened when the AGC was turned on, and only in CW mode. Everything was clean and pure in the USB DIGI mode. I was using the factory default AGC settings, and I think the latest release of software. That sounds like an AGC issue to me, and there is no AGC hardware in this radio, at all, so a software AGC problem. I don't believe that my radio, or my situation is unique, so, perhaps my report will trigger someone to actually look for, and apply a fix. Since there is absolutely nothing I can do to fix software problems in my radio, I am hoping for band-aid solutions in the AGC settings section. Thus far, the only thing that seems to help is to all but disable the AGC by putting the threshold up to 12. That seems quite counter to those suggesting settings of 3 or 4, which caused me to ask: for what band? OBTW, since some of the members of this group seem to be on Hans' team, would it be too much to ask that they identify themselves as such somehow in their posts? -Chuck Harris, WA3UQV On Mon, 06 Jan 2025 08:30:26 -0800 "Daniel Conklin via groups.io" <danconklin2@...> wrote: Chuck, |
Dear Thomas,
Thanks for the quick reply.? I can also envisage that using thinner wire will make it easier to thread through the holes with less likelyhood of damage to the enamel. So an improvement there as well.
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I am using the instructions from "transformer1_00c.pdf "which only mentions 0.6mm wire.? Is there are newer version that I should be following?
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73 Richard |
Re: The Michigan Mighty Mite Revival FDIM
Yes. the bottom.
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Ed AB8DF On Jan 6, 2025, at 6:43 PM, Keith VE7GDH <ve7gdh@...> wrote: |
Re: The Michigan Mighty Mite Revival FDIM
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The Michigan Mighty Mite Revival FDIM
开云体育THE MICHIGAN MIGHTY MITE REVIVAL The Michigan QRP Club is holding a REVIVAL! During the ARRL 2025 Hamvention and as part of the ACRI Four Days In May event, The Michigan Mighty Mite will have a REVIVAL. It is open to all. The FDIM has a Club night on Friday 16 May 2025 at the Holiday Inn in Fairborn, OH The Michigan QRP Club will have a table at Club night. Bring you old, new, whatever MMM to Club night. We will have a set up that includes 12vdc power and a dummy load. You bring your MMM and a way to key it (could be a pair of wires). If your MMM can be heard on our receiver, you will get a very special award. Not sure what it will be yet because we are still working on budget. But it will be special. I promise. Receiver will probably my old K2 with a hunk of wire antenna. There are no other criteria other we can hear it. If it puts a ton of power, we don’t care. If is cute, we don’t care, If it is ugly, we don’y care. If it in an altoids tin, we don’t care. amateur radio license required to operate on the air! 500mW CW TRANSMITTER Author and technical wizard, Dave Ingram - K4TWJ. (SK), once wrote:? A very quick and easy way to get on the air is to build a "Michigan Mighty Mite" CW transmitter for 160, 80, 40 or 30 meters originated by Ed Knoll, W3FQJ and developed by Tom Jurgens, KY8I. KY8I was one of the MIQRP’s founding members. It can't get?simpler than this! I made my very first QSOs with a 40-meter version. It has very few parts, costs almost nothing, and it works! Output power is about 500 milliwatts with a 12-volt power supply. To operate, attach 50-ohm dummy load or appropriate 50-ohm antenna (do yourself a favor and use a half-wave dipole antenna to avoid?tuners and assure good results) and ground, insert crystal and close the key. Adjust the variable capacitor for the cleanest signal that has the most power (compromise).That's it! You're on the air, and can?confirm that it's working with field strength meter. Power output can be figured with a common multitester by using a very simple wattmeter circuit. Q1: 2N3053, 2N2222, SK3265 or similar inexpensive general-purpose NPN transistor. I use a plastic-case transistor that came in a bargain-pack from Radio Shack - works fine. Use heat sink - try an alligator?clip if you don't have a heat sink handy. TANK COIL: use a 1.25" diameter form (35mm film canister, pill bottle, etc.) and #20 - #22 AWG enameled ("magnet") wire. To make tap, wind L1 to the "tapped at" number of turns (see table below). Make a loop about?1 inch long, twist it a few times and finish winding. Sand the insulation off the end of the loop. This is your tap. After winding L1, wrap it with a thin layer of masking tape and wind L2 on top of the tape in the?same direction as L1. Secure L2 with more tape and finish by sanding insulation off remaining leads. ? ? ? ? ? ??L1:?? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ??L2: (primary/collector windings)?? ? ? ??(secondary/antenna windings) 160m--60 turns, tapped at 20?? ? ? ??160m-- 8 turns ?80m--45 turns, tapped at 15? ? ? ? ??80m---6 turns ?40m--21 turns, tapped at 7?? ? ? ? ??40m---4 turns ?30m--15 turns, tapped at 6?? ? ? ? ??30m---4 turns XTAL: fundamental-mode crystal for desired frequency. About that variable capacitor - the unit in the photo is a discontinued item from Radio Shack, but NO PROBLEM - salvage one from an old transistor AM Radio or try a trimmer capacitor. Of course, a fullsize?variable will work - but it will also be bigger than the rest of the transmitter! Tracking down variable capacitors at a good price is a noble challenge and part of the game. Source: Ingram, Dave, K4TWJ, "World of Ideas: QRP Fun - Part II"? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?(CQ, Vol.48, No.3, March 1992, pp.107-108) Ed AB8DF Ernie W3ETE |
QMX AGC thread
Group, These are my AGC settings. Threshold? S:? 7 Slope DB per DB: 60 Noise filter:? 5 Hang Time:? 30 Smooth Samples:? 50 Recovery DB/s:? 50 Sample Blocks:? 2 S9 sounds like:? S9 AGC display:? ON AGC DB per bar:? 3 I notice that the noise level in my QMX 80-20 goes up when the AGC is on, so my current AGC setting is "OFF".? Is there a way to tame the noise?? Typical powerline and chinajunk noise in my suburban QTH is S2 through S7. 73, Jay W6CJ |
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