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Re: Test ADC I/Q first scan always bad when set to 6m band
Don't worry, I've seen it too. I couldn't quite work out why it happens or how to prevent it. But I recall I wrote in the documentation that this can happen and press the R key to run it again to check.? 73 Hans G0UPL On Sun, Jul 21, 2024, 18:09 w8gu via <w8gu=[email protected]> wrote:
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Test ADC I/Q first scan always bad when set to 6m band
I finally got my shipment of replacement SMPS and got the whole unit buttoned up.? Been using the transceiver happily for a while now.
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Since I finally buttoned up the QMX+ for a while, I decided to rerun the hardware tests.
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I noticed something I did not notice before.
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I happened to be operating on 6m (the CQ WW VHF contests is going on right now) and the transceiver was set to 50.313.
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When I ran the Test ADC I/Q test, the first scan always came out looking bad:
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If I hit "R" for refresh, I get a good scan
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This does not always happen if I change the band, but it seems to always happen on 6 meters.
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Is this typical?? Should I worry?? Looks like things do not get spun up for the test as quickly on 6 meters, but a refresh always shows a good set of sine waves.
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My guess is that I should not worry, but I was wondering if my QMX+ is somehow different.
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Thanks
Mark
W8GU
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That should work fine but you will need to hold the component down or it may very well move around as the solder paste transitions and/or the air flow from the heat gun pushes it off the pads.?
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I use an Xacto knife with a clean, fresh #11 blade. And be sure to continue to hold it down after removing the heat until it really, really cools and sets. Greg
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Re: Yihua 959D question
I have been using this station for the past 5 years, it has never missed a beat: ? ?
The hot air works well and the soldering iron takes Hakko tips.? It comes with spare air and solder heaters and an assortment of tips.? I surgically removed the smoke sucker pipe from the iron.
It is handy to have two irons available for removing two-terminal SMD parts.
73, Don N2VGU |
Re: Keyboard CW
On Sun, Jul 21, 2024 at 01:07 PM, Donald Kirk wrote:
I also do use a keyboard when running much above about 30 WPM because I find sending perfect code above this speed is pretty difficult for me as I sometimes like to rag chew at 40 plus wpm and sometimes crank it up to 60 wpm). Personal view here only.
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Using Morse, preferably with a straight key and speeds below say 20WPM
are a simple pleasure to the user, and can allow some feeling to be holistically
expressed between yourself and your QSO partner.
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But cranking an electronic keyer to some high speed elimates the aforementioned,
and effectively converts a simple human pleasure and skill into a pseudo data
mode, and usually requires some form of external machine to get results.
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It's not much different to sending Frequency Terrorism 8 or RTTY.
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But we're all free to decide, so whatever floats our respective boats etc.
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- 73 de Andy - |
Re: Keyboard CW
One option is Funtronic (commercial version of K3NG) On Wed, Jul 17, 2024 at 11:10?PM George Korper via <georgekorper=[email protected]> wrote:
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Anthony Luscre K8ZT Ohio Section Section Youth Coordinator & Education Outreach ARRL - The National Association For Amateur Radio? ? K8ZT Radio Website- Amateur Radio Resources for Students/Youth - |
Re: QMX+ thinks my paddle is a GPS unit
Yes, I have set the QMX to receive GPS from the internal source. The more I think about this, the more
I think the problem was with the routing of the cable from the key to the QMX. By changing out the key I also changed out the path of the wiring. ?
Cheers and 73s
--Corey (WB0RXQ) |
Re: QMX+ thinks my paddle is a GPS unit
Glad I'm not the only one who has seen this issue. Potentially the issue was caused by the way?
i had the cord from the key routed to the QMX. When I switched keys, I changed the routing of the cable. Yes, my QMX is setup for GPS internal. ?
Cheers and 73s
--Corey (WB0RXQ) |
Re: QMX final check #4 - it's necessary - just do it
As a precaution, I used Kapton tape as suggested.?
however, even if that does short out, it shouldn't cause any excess current at the p/s boards. If anything, it should lower the current and voltage and should not cause the C106 failure.?
What rev QMX was this? I and a few others had a similar failure with rev 1 boards. At some point, Hans switched to a 10 V item (original was 6.3 V) at some point to give a bit more headroom in the 5V SMPS and the diode bias circuit. Related?
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73, Dan? NM3A |
I think you're sorted for the Cap My tips for beginners are Tiny SMD components stick to the soldering iron and its near impossible to just melt the solder on one end I use solder and no-clean rework flux and a wooden cocktail stick? Tin the board pads fairly thinly with the iron and solder Apply a tiny blob of rework flux to each location where the component will touch Place the component and hold it in place with a cocktail stick.? Touch one end of the component? with the iron (decent sided bit please) - the flux will boil off and a joint will form at both ends If either end needs a further touch hold the component down with the stick while doing it. 'Speedy' is the kindest thing you can do for the component |
Re: New build issues, looking for help
开云体育Hi Dan - I would take this as a learning exercise and let Jeff
Moore be the teacher. His repair prices are fair, he tells you all
the errors found and repairs the unit quickly to working condition
if possible. It hopefully is cheaper and probably faster than even
a new kit unit. Email him at his QRZ address. - A grateful former
customer, Sandy KB3EOF On 7/20/24 19:11, dan.kerrigan via
groups.io wrote:
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Re: QMX+ 9v Portable Power Options
Yeah, I think it has something to do with the PD specs and the power bank. I tried to power my QDX with a 9v PD trigger using the USB C slot and a Raspberry Pi using the 5v USB A slot on a 10,000 mAh PD power bank. It wouldn't do both at the same time. So I have to use a separate power bank for each device. |
Hi Jason. That capacitor will work fine at that spot in the circuit. No problem. Good luck with the replacement.? Ron On Sun, Jul 21, 2024 at 05:44 KI5UMG via <KI5UMG=[email protected]> wrote:
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I am finally getting around to building the QCX Mini (40m) that I purchased 2 years ago. I want to lead off by saying, I have already contacted qrp-labs support about this yesterday, but am cross posting this here mainly because A) it has been so long since purchase that I do not want to bother with warranty stuff/shipping etc and B) I am pretty sure with the correct info, I can make the repair myself.?
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I recently pulled out the kit and began inventory/sorting/inspecting so I could begin the build. I noticed that SMD C32 is missing from the board (see attached photo). This is listed as a 0.1uF SMD capacitor. I looked in the bag and the box and didn't see it. I am wondering if are adequate for replacing the missing one. I have not yet done any soldering of SMD components, but in watching some videos, it doesn't look too hard.?
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Any advice would be appreciated.?
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Jason KI5UMG |
Re: QMX final check #4 - it's necessary - just do it
I just bought a few rolls of "Koptan" tape (got it from Amazon, but you'll find it similarly mislabeled on eBay) for just this sort of thing. I've read so many warnings about how tight things are on the QMX, that I plan to use it liberally when I finally get up the gumption to build my mid-band QMX. |
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