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Re: Test ADC I/Q first scan always bad when set to 6m band

 

Don't worry, I've seen it too. I couldn't quite work out why it happens or how to prevent it. But I recall I wrote in the documentation that this can happen and press the R key to run it again to check.?

73 Hans G0UPL


On Sun, Jul 21, 2024, 18:09 w8gu via <w8gu=[email protected]> wrote:
I finally got my shipment of replacement SMPS and got the whole unit buttoned up.? Been using the transceiver happily for a while now.
?
Since I finally buttoned up the QMX+ for a while, I decided to rerun the hardware tests.
?
I noticed something I did not notice before.
?
I happened to be operating on 6m (the CQ WW VHF contests is going on right now) and the transceiver was set to 50.313.
?
When I ran the Test ADC I/Q test, the first scan always came out looking bad:
?
?
If I hit "R" for refresh, I get a good scan
?
This does not always happen if I change the band, but it seems to always happen on 6 meters.
?
Is this typical?? Should I worry?? Looks like things do not get spun up for the test as quickly on 6 meters, but a refresh always shows a good set of sine waves.
?
My guess is that I should not worry, but I was wondering if my QMX+ is somehow different.
?
Thanks
Mark
W8GU
?


Test ADC I/Q first scan always bad when set to 6m band

 

I finally got my shipment of replacement SMPS and got the whole unit buttoned up.? Been using the transceiver happily for a while now.
?
Since I finally buttoned up the QMX+ for a while, I decided to rerun the hardware tests.
?
I noticed something I did not notice before.
?
I happened to be operating on 6m (the CQ WW VHF contests is going on right now) and the transceiver was set to 50.313.
?
When I ran the Test ADC I/Q test, the first scan always came out looking bad:
?
?
If I hit "R" for refresh, I get a good scan
?
This does not always happen if I change the band, but it seems to always happen on 6 meters.
?
Is this typical?? Should I worry?? Looks like things do not get spun up for the test as quickly on 6 meters, but a refresh always shows a good set of sine waves.
?
My guess is that I should not worry, but I was wondering if my QMX+ is somehow different.
?
Thanks
Mark
W8GU
?


Re: QCX Mini Missing capacitor - question about replacment capacitor. #build #qcxmini

 

That should work fine but you will need to hold the component down or it may very well move around as the solder paste transitions and/or the air flow from the heat gun pushes it off the pads.?

I use an Xacto knife with a clean, fresh #11 blade.
And be sure to continue to hold it down after removing the heat until it really, really cools and sets.



Greg


On Sun, Jul 21, 2024 at 10:16 AM, KI5UMG via groups.io
<KI5UMG@...> wrote:
My plan was to clean the contacts with copper wick/liquid flux and then use solder paste with a heat gun to set it in place. this way I think the only touching that would be necessary would be initial placement into the solder paste. Is this a bad idea?
--
Jason
KI5UMG


Re: Yihua 959D question

 

I have been using this station for the past 5 years, it has never missed a beat: ? ?
The hot air works well and the soldering iron takes Hakko tips.? It comes with spare air and solder heaters and an assortment of tips.? I surgically removed the smoke sucker pipe from the iron.
It is handy to have two irons available for removing two-terminal SMD parts.
73, Don N2VGU


Re: Keyboard CW

 

On Sun, Jul 21, 2024 at 01:07 PM, Donald Kirk wrote:
I also do use a keyboard when running much above about 30 WPM because I find sending perfect code above this speed is pretty difficult for me as I sometimes like to rag chew at 40 plus wpm and sometimes crank it up to 60 wpm).
Personal view here only.
?
Using Morse, preferably with a straight key and speeds below say 20WPM
are a simple pleasure to the user, and can allow some feeling to be holistically
expressed between yourself and your QSO partner.
?
But cranking an electronic keyer to some high speed elimates the aforementioned,
and effectively converts a simple human pleasure and skill into a pseudo data
mode, and usually requires some form of external machine to get results.
?
It's not much different to sending Frequency Terrorism 8 or RTTY.
?
But we're all free to decide, so whatever floats our respective boats etc.
?
--
- 73 de Andy -


Re: Keyboard CW

 

Hi Anthony,
I have seen that K3NG on Amazon. I couldn't figure out if the case was supplied,
or if it was a kit or assembled. Has anyone purchased one?
73,
George
K3GK


Re: QCX Mini Missing capacitor - question about replacment capacitor. #build #qcxmini

 

My plan was to clean the contacts with copper wick/liquid flux and then use solder paste with a heat gun to set it in place. this way I think the only touching that would be necessary would be initial placement into the solder paste. Is this a bad idea?
--
Jason
KI5UMG


Re: Keyboard CW

 

One option is Funtronic (commercial version of K3NG)


On Wed, Jul 17, 2024 at 11:10?PM George Korper via <georgekorper=[email protected]> wrote:
Hi All,
?
I really like CW, and I am good at 13 WPM listening to W1AW. I can copy behind and feel no stress.
I would like to use a keyboard, so I can send perfectly spaced CW and rag chew. Not a touch typist, 13 WPM is a good speed
for my hunt and peck.?
I want the receiving station not to have to deal with my straight key or paddle spacing etc.?
Currently the USB cable on my QMX+ doesn't incorporate this feature. Maybe someday it will.
For now, I am looking for suggestions for the best way to do this without a computer.
I had a Heathkit Keyboard, but it gave up on me mechanically after years. I haven't seen anything similar;
but i'm pretty certain that someone on this forum knows!
?
Thank you,
George K3GK
?



--
Anthony Luscre

K8ZT
Ohio Section Section Youth Coordinator & Education Outreach
ARRL - The National Association For Amateur Radio?
?
K8ZT Radio Website-

Amateur Radio Resources for Students/Youth -


Re: Yihua 959D question

 

Thank you very much everybody.? This is all new to me.? ?I've watched several You Tube videos about it and a few about rework in general.? ?I have several boards from old computers and televisions to practice on before I jump into my radios.
Thanks again,?
73
Eric


Re: QMX+ thinks my paddle is a GPS unit

 

Yes, I have set the QMX to receive GPS from the internal source. The more I think about this, the more
I think the problem was with the routing of the cable from the key to the QMX. By changing out the key
I also changed out the path of the wiring.
?
Cheers and 73s
--Corey (WB0RXQ)


Re: QMX+ thinks my paddle is a GPS unit

 

Glad I'm not the only one who has seen this issue. Potentially the issue was caused by the way?
i had the cord from the key routed to the QMX. When I switched keys, I changed the routing of
the cable. Yes, my QMX is setup for GPS internal.
?
Cheers and 73s
--Corey (WB0RXQ)


Re: QMX final check #4 - it's necessary - just do it

 

As a precaution, I used Kapton tape as suggested.?

however, even if that does short out, it shouldn't cause any excess current at the p/s boards. If anything, it should lower the current and voltage and should not cause the C106 failure.?

What rev QMX was this? I and a few others had a similar failure with rev 1 boards. At some point, Hans switched to a 10 V item (original was 6.3 V) at some point to give a bit more headroom in the 5V SMPS and the diode bias circuit. Related?
--
73, Dan? NM3A


Re: QCX Mini Missing capacitor - question about replacment capacitor. #build #qcxmini

 

I think you're sorted for the Cap

My tips for beginners are
Tiny SMD components stick to the soldering iron and its near impossible to just melt the solder on one end

I use solder and no-clean rework flux and a wooden cocktail stick?

Tin the board pads fairly thinly with the iron and solder
Apply a tiny blob of rework flux to each location where the component will touch
Place the component and hold it in place with a cocktail stick.?
Touch one end of the component? with the iron (decent sided bit please) - the flux will boil off and a joint will form at both ends
If either end needs a further touch hold the component down with the stick while doing it.

'Speedy' is the kindest thing you can do for the component



Re: New build issues, looking for help

 

Jeff Moore, W1NC


Re: New build issues, looking for help

 

开云体育

Hi Dan - I would take this as a learning exercise and let Jeff Moore be the teacher. His repair prices are fair, he tells you all the errors found and repairs the unit quickly to working condition if possible. It hopefully is cheaper and probably faster than even a new kit unit. Email him at his QRZ address. - A grateful former customer, Sandy KB3EOF

On 7/20/24 19:11, dan.kerrigan via groups.io wrote:

I recently purchased a QMX+ kit and soon started following this group. I finished my kit today but I'm having a couple of issues after kit completion and I'm hoping to get some ideas. I've nearly resigned myself to purchasing another kit and starting over due to at least one error I know I've made. The unit powers on and I was able to flash the firmware without trouble. Hardware diagnostics in the terminal look OK.
?
1. When plugging in headphones, the volume is static at full volume and the volume control seems to do nothing at all.
2. When tuning around, connected to a known working antenna, no s-meter changes can be seen.
3. The terminal apps Audio filter sweep, RF filter sweep, and Test ADC I/Q never start.
4. SWR pretty much shows 10s. LPF sweep isn't pegged but I'm not sure to look for exactly either.
?
Mistakes I've made:
- I had trouble soldering the heavier gauge wire enamel wire for the B&C connections on the SWR bridge. In a moment of poor judgement, I think I vaporized the pad on the bottom of the board using too much heat. In desperation, I soldered the wires from the top of the board. Given that I had no trouble doing that, I now think I didn't enough enamel scraped off and the additional heat led to the problem.
- My soldering skills are not stellar yet and I'm only somewhat confident my other joints don't have issues.
?
Any advice on what to look for would be greatly appreciated!
?
Thank you,
Dan Kerrigan
?
?
?
?


Re: QCX Mini Missing capacitor - question about replacment capacitor. #build #qcxmini

 

Check the page here on groups.io for Electronic components available started to spread the pain of getting lifetime supplies from Amazon! It was started because C509 was missing from a QMX Rev 2 kit.
--
73
Karl
KI4ZUQ


Re: QMX+ 9v Portable Power Options

 

Yeah, I think it has something to do with the PD specs and the power bank. I tried to power my QDX with a 9v PD trigger using the USB C slot and a Raspberry Pi using the 5v USB A slot on a 10,000 mAh PD power bank. It wouldn't do both at the same time. So I have to use a separate power bank for each device.


Re: QCX Mini Missing capacitor - question about replacment capacitor. #build #qcxmini

 

Hi Jason. That capacitor will work fine at that spot in the circuit. No problem. Good luck with the replacement.?

Ron

On Sun, Jul 21, 2024 at 05:44 KI5UMG via <KI5UMG=[email protected]> wrote:
I am finally getting around to building the QCX Mini (40m) that I purchased 2 years ago. I want to lead off by saying, I have already contacted qrp-labs support about this yesterday, but am cross posting this here mainly because A) it has been so long since purchase that I do not want to bother with warranty stuff/shipping etc and B) I am pretty sure with the correct info, I can make the repair myself.?
?
I recently pulled out the kit and began inventory/sorting/inspecting so I could begin the build. I noticed that SMD C32 is missing from the board (see attached photo). This is listed as a 0.1uF SMD capacitor. I looked in the bag and the box and didn't see it. I am wondering if are adequate for replacing the missing one. I have not yet done any soldering of SMD components, but in watching some videos, it doesn't look too hard.?
?
Any advice would be appreciated.?
?
?
?
--
Jason
KI5UMG


QCX Mini Missing capacitor - question about replacment capacitor. #build #qcxmini

 

I am finally getting around to building the QCX Mini (40m) that I purchased 2 years ago. I want to lead off by saying, I have already contacted qrp-labs support about this yesterday, but am cross posting this here mainly because A) it has been so long since purchase that I do not want to bother with warranty stuff/shipping etc and B) I am pretty sure with the correct info, I can make the repair myself.?
?
I recently pulled out the kit and began inventory/sorting/inspecting so I could begin the build. I noticed that SMD C32 is missing from the board (see attached photo). This is listed as a 0.1uF SMD capacitor. I looked in the bag and the box and didn't see it. I am wondering if are adequate for replacing the missing one. I have not yet done any soldering of SMD components, but in watching some videos, it doesn't look too hard.?
?
Any advice would be appreciated.?
?
?
?
--
Jason
KI5UMG


Re: QMX final check #4 - it's necessary - just do it

 

I just bought a few rolls of "Koptan" tape (got it from Amazon, but you'll find it similarly mislabeled on eBay) for just this sort of thing. I've read so many warnings about how tight things are on the QMX, that I plan to use it liberally when I finally get up the gumption to build my mid-band QMX.