That last question requires a look at my second picture:
The single round hole is for power in. The dual nine pin serial port is not connected to anything. I drilled the hole for the SMA coax connector. So, I guess the question should have been, "Does Hans supply a different rear plate with the WSPR kit?"

Here is a picture of the GPS clock in operation:
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73
Karl
KI4ZUQ

开云体育

I wonder if it was the original two? Postmark date?

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Jim / K7TXA
Eagle, ID

SKCC 10447T
BUG 301

Got 'em today! Arrived about 1300 CDT as we met the mail van coming our way as we headed into town on another matter. They got here in good shape, no boot or tire prints! Thanks and message me here or QRZ.com or email if you need anything!
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73
Karl
KI4ZUQ

I did send Hans an email with pictures of the box before I opened it. Once he is back from his travels and can respond we will figure out best path forward.?

Can you post a higher resolution picture so the experts (that's not me) can give a good opinion about the degree of damage.

Easiest way to fix this is to order a set of the SMPS boards (Switching-Mode Power Supply).? Hans offers them here:


People have had some problems with these boards (physical damage like yours, fried parts, etc.), and Hans kindly made replacements available at a low price.

Don't fret over shipping time.? You have some pleasant building-time ahead of you before you need the SMPS boards.

When you get to the initial power-up stage in your build, follow the instructions carefully.? Never (never never) exceed the input voltage on a QMX radio.? If you built if for 9 volts, never exceed 9 volts.? If you built it for 12 volts, never exceed 12 volts.? Over-volting a QMX radio can cause more damage, very quickly, than can be fixed.? Just skip all that disappointment and be careful.

And when you initially power the radio up, follow the instructions for reduced input voltage.? In the version of the assembly instructions I have, that's in section 2.31 Final Checks Before Applying Power the First Time.? Hans suggests 7 volts, current-limited to 250 milliamps, maximum.

Regards,
Rich

I admit, I am a dummy!? I'd like to build a QMX or two but have never purchased the kit because I don't fully understand how to install the software.? (I built some QCX but the program was already installed.)? I just looked at the procedure again and I now have more questions on how to do it then I did before I looked at the procedure.? (Just too many assumptions and terms in the instructions for a non programmer.? No step one to step X info.) )? Is there anyone in Houston, Texas that could take me under his wing and show me how to program the radio?? I don't want to just have someone program it but actually show me how to do it for the first time.? Otherwise, I'll never get it going.? (I looked on You Tube at the zillion QMX videos but non go through the steps of programming it.)

Lee Bahr, w0vt

leebahr@...

On Wed, Jun 21, 2023 at 10:14 AM, Don, ND6T wrote:

If new builders want to duplicate this fix might avoid making the 19^th turn tap on L401 and not install C403. The value of the new capacitor is not critical, it just needs to block the DC bias but pass the 14 MHz receive signal when that band is selected. It could be a leaded part, placed from the hole at the input end of the C403 position to the hole where the 19^th tap was supposed to go.

Don, why not put the capacitor in place of C403 and short the L401 tap separately? Is something avoided by not using the PCB trace from the capacitor to the inductor tap?

I ask because I'm trying to do something similar on a QDX, and shorted 2 inductor holes and used an 820pf capacitor in a BPF capacitor spot, but my rf sweeps still all peak 1-2 Mhz higher than the target frequency.??

Nate
N8BTR

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Colin - K6JTH?

I very recently ordered a QDX but for the wrong frequency range. What is the best way to contact them to correct my order?

Thanks!

Received my QMX mid band yesterday and half of the box was crushed during shipping. The only "damage" ,if you would call it that, I originally saw was that one of the boards was already separated from the other so no biggie. Now I am starting the build and upon closer inspection of the main board I see all 3 of the "331" I believe inductors have the tops shattered. I remember reading, maybe on the qrp website, that if these were cracked you could glue them back assuming the wire was still intact. Problem is the missing chunks are MIA. Will this still be a viable build?

Does anyone know the rough weight of the QMX+?

I've ordered one anyway of course, I'm just interested what I'm going to be putting my back through when out and about with it...

My suspicion is that it might have something to do with your antenna system. I have had this same thing happen with multiple radios. Turned out to be connectors that tarnished and the RF reestablishes contact (at least for a while). Right now, I have a remote coax switch where one antenna will lose contact periodically but switching to another antenna works fine. Sometimes, just the exercise of switching will work, sometimes a shot of RF is necessary. I need to take the switch out and clean the contacts…

73, Kevin K3OX

Jim - congratulations!!! But not only a working QMX - also one with a PA efficiency of more than 100 %!!! ;-))
Maybe the current value is not so exact.

So, as you saw with those last sweeps, the they show that all the "sweet spots" are in the high end of the bands. How can I get them lowered?

For rf sweep the signal is going through LPF AND BPF. Which is it?
You could make a LPF sweep to check the throughput for LPF only. If the band frequencies are not attenuated so it should be the BPF. To lower the the pass trough you should increase the inductance. If possible spread the turns more over the whole toroid.

Looking at the current sweeps I think they are not all bad.

80 m: - 13 dB are not so good, but high noise on the band so maybe ...
60 m: - 7 dB are not so bad
40 m: - 2 ... - 3 dB are fine
30 m: - 5 dB is ok
20 m: - 9 dB are a bit much

Start with the highest band and with the part of the winding in use for all bands (the part direct connected to Q508, "0 - Start" I think).

Btw, thanks for the fantastic teamwork. I enjoyed all the time.

73, Ludwig

Please disregard my post. Operator error : (
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Jim?
N7RCS
Palm Bay, FL

With my HB Rev 3 HB QMX connected to N1MM I notice that the manual time I set on the QMX does not agree with what N1MM displays. The times differ by exactly 1 hour. Any idea what may be causing this issue? I'm not using a GPS for time, just setting the time manually. N1MM is working normally otherwise.

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Jim?
N7RCS
Palm Bay, FL