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Hi Dave,

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somehow your post created a new thread with identical title, maybe this one can be deleted?

I answered your initial question in the main thread.

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KR

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Dirk

On Tue, Nov 19, 2024 at 06:51 AM, Dirk wrote:

no, right now U7 is cell 1, U4 cell 2 and U5 cell 3.

Counting from minus to plus!

Dirk,

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I am starting from PCB v 1.1. Designators has changed.

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73,
Sardar (AC8L, 4K6SA, VA3DUA).

On Tue, Nov 19, 2024 at 12:29 PM, <me@...> wrote:

In terms of schematic designators - "1" is U5, "2" is U4 and "3" is U7, right?

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Hi Sardar,

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no, right now U7 is cell 1, U4 cell 2 and U5 cell 3.

Counting from minus to plus!

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If you connect U7 as 1, U5 as 2 and U4 as 3, they just line up on the PCB.

You just need large interconnecting pads with a small trace (1 mm) tapping the voltage to the BMS.

Minus of U7 and plus of U4 should be larger traces, as this will be the main power in/out.

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73

DK7CVD

So, I had to check it again.
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After I replaced the BMS boards, I just checked the maximum cell voltage, not considering the current limit of the balancer.
The FLIR check I only did for the first board so far. Now I did it and on the newly installed one, with the wire connection, the resistor is heating up!
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My updated theory:
There was one cell reaching the 4.5V, which I measured at the battery (I added some wires) and the BMS board.
The flat PCB on PCB installation is not optimal for hobbyist, to be sure that there is a good connection and I think this cell connection was not good.
When I measured the voltage, I pushed the BMS PCB down and made good contact. When I did the FLIR check, I didn't pushed it down.
This is also not fully conclusive, but the error clearly seems to be on my end (maybe, I have to tidy up the workbench).
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Things are looking much better for the system now. The BMS switches off the charge current if the overall voltage reaches 12.6V.

Considering the limited balance current, I do only see one issue remaining. If your batteries are not well balanced you have to charge at low current, otherwise the BMS can`t keep up.

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73

DK7CVD

On Tue, Nov 19, 2024 at 02:09 AM, Dirk wrote:

hy not just connecting them in physical order (with the numbering above this would mean 1-3-2), in-line and directly with large pads, like marked in red?

In terms of schematic designators - "1" is U5, "2" is U4 and "3" is U7, right?

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73,
Sardar (AC8L, 4K6SA, VA3DUA).

Hi Stan,

I just wish the manual had step by step test instructions that would ensure a progressively good build on every stage to avoid finding problems later on with too many variables in place.

When I did the per manual tests on the T501 during the build I found I had a short. Took me a lot of time to remove, test and resolder only to find out the problem wasn’t there. It was a faulty BS170.

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How do I check T501 and T507? I’ve tested everything before installing on the PCB. I suppose that it’s not possible to test them soldered on the board as it will have dc continuity through other components in the circuit. So how do I do it? Visual inspection (it seems fine)? Remove some legs and test continuity from there? Do I have to desolder every component one by one?

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Thank you

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Pedro F4JAW

Hi Jonas

Same problem here,

The thing is that I do not want to allow the device to operate out of the band limits.

Just for clearance is this a bug that can be corrected??

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73 Azgael

Hi Dave,

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this was I just did and now it starts to get really interesting.

I tested the tortured BMS and all three cells are kicking in at 4.23V, excactly as they should.

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When the board was installed, I measured 4.5V at the cells and at the BMS solder points, but not activity of the BMS.

Broken, cheap stuff from Am.. was the easier explanation, but this seems to be not the case.

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73

DK7CVD

Hi Dirk,
The quick way to check the balance voltage detection is to disconnect everything, including the batteries, and then connect a variable power supply in place of one of the batteries.

When the voltage is at around 4.2V the balance resistor should be enabled, and the current from the power supply should be approximately 100mA.

The BMS(3S) that I used on a homebrew 12V UPS worked as expected. I changed the current sense resistor values to reduce the over current trip point. The batteries were wired directly underneath the BMS as shown.

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73, Dave

Just be careful not to forget to remove the CW key.

Mitsu JK1PDR

The same settings should work fine in both QMX and QMX+

With one exception:? the System Config / Band Version.? Look at this menu item and see if it says "QMX+ 160-6m"

If not, you need to do a Factory Reset, and it will ask you to set the band version when it reboots.? You can't set it from the menu.

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If this is not the issue, have you run the Hardware Tests (using an attached terminal session) to see if all looks good?? See the back part of the operations manual for details.

Stan KC7XE

Good luck.? Let me know what you find.

On mine, L401a at first gave me an issue, on the hole near the edge of the board where the starting wire for both coils connect.? My L401a wire didn't get connected well there, and I ended up wrapping it around the L401b wire and soldering it to the pad to fix it.

Stan KC7XE

Perhaps it would help if you read the following sections of the wiki if you haven't done so:

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And have you tried to hook up to a terminal session to run the hardware tests and diagnostics?? They may be active and available even if you don't see anything on the QMX screen.? And I assume you have loaded the firmware: QMX appears dead until you do.? See the operations manual for details on these.

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Regarding the high temp on IC101 - if that is happening with a small load even disconnected from the QMX, there is likely a problem on the SMPS.? Look carefully at the solder job on the connector pins - it is very easy to get a bridge from the end of one of those pins to one of the components or pads on the SMPS, which will cause malfunction.? I know I had to clean some excess solder off mine to avoid this.

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I hope some of this is helpful

Stan KC7XE

Hi Sardar,

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I think I've found the reason for the voltage drop during transmit in battery operation.

Is there a particular reason why the batteries are put in series this way?

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This creates very long, thin traces, with many vias.

Why not just connecting them in physical order (with the numbering above this would mean 1-3-2), in-line and directly with large pads, like marked in red?

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73

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DK7CVD

Are you sure you are not also switching it between CW and DIGI mode?

My QMX S-meter does not work on any band in DIGI mode.

It works on all bands in CW mode.

I think that is a firmware 'feature' at this time.

Stan KC7XE

Hi Dave,

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thanks for the details. I was aware of this, that's why I checked with the thermal camera and measured the voltage drop of the resistors. Even with a cell voltage a 4.5 V there was zero voltage drop over the balance resistors. So, I would conclude that the boards I received are not working. This is not a big surprise, as Am... is NOT a relaible distributer of electronic components (I would consider this board as such). They are sellig what ever is available and these boards are really build on lowest cost. The 10 load switch FET are from 4 different batches (different markings), which makes it quite probable that they are reused or off-spec. In the end you get what you paid for...

No, the QMX (all versions) use a BN61-202 for T501.? See the parts list at the beginning of the assembly manual.

BN for binocular

61 for material type

202 is the size designator.

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Amidon and others use the BN61-202 part number

Fair-rite uses part number 2861000202

They are available at Digikey under the Fair-rite part number in the US.

They are available at Mouser with the same Fair-rite part number.

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I am doing pretty-much the same thing and just received a set of 10 of them.? I would send you one, but I have never sent anything from US to Canada, and have no idea what it would cost and what carrier I would use.

Stan KC7XE