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This may not help (but its yet another option to think about) is that you can extend the pot & encoder controls using a rod of the same diameter say a section off a long pot shaft, a wooden dowel,

Perfect. I can put the rotary encoder in from the back side, insert that thru the case and tighten it up, then use a mounting post in each rear corner to make the board stable in the case. Everything

There is. 3 menus under your message - REPLY / LIKE / MORE. It's under MORE. 73 de Andy

Hello you can solder female connector for display to PCB and right angle pins to display? 73! Alexey UT0UM

I hate it when this sort of question is asked. First I think about it, then I try it and find my guess was wrong. No, I'm not telling <vbg>

On the last couple of flights I have been using 6psc of 38x19mm-solar-cells connected in series, I know from looking at Daves u3b flights photos with th new u3b firmware he use the same cells but cut

A quick "dry fit" says the potentiometer is a bit of a problem. Not insurmountable but not a simple flip and solder operation. 73 NE5U Mike

While drinking coffee this morning I have been looking at the options for mounting my QCX in a case. Mounting the display seems to be the easy part except for making the hole for the display. I can

Hi Ryan No reason not to do it this way... it all depends on the accuracy of the real time clock. If the timebase is a TCXO then it could run the U3S in WSPR mode for weeks or months. 73 Hans G0UPL

That’s very useful information, Mikael! Thanks for sharing it! I’ve ordered some of the balloons (the 36 inch ones). I wonder, do you fill the balloon bit by bit, and then try the floatation after

All info on my blog : Enclosure mod ( http://pa-11019.blogspot.nl/ ) . 73 John PD7MAA

Hi Hans and All, My Shack Clock kit and GPS Receiver kit arrived on Thursday. I built the clock on Friday night but all is not well. The LCD lights and shows one row of squares (top row) indicating

Very good. Hope it goes well D

The origional buttons were not used . I had 2 extended push buttons in stock as wel as some cheap plastic potentiometers. The shafts were cut of and appeared to be hollow. A 1/8 ( 3mm) drill was used

How did you pull the push buttons out? David G4YVM wrote:

Hi Ryan FYI they aren't zener diodes. Just ordinary 1N4148. No harm in not fitting all the parts! That should all be fine. Be careful with the jumpers. The recommended construction has LPF #1 always

Hello All, I am building the arduino shield kit for use as a WSPR transmitter, and I have a question about timekeeping. Now clearly, the GPS kit is great and preferred for many reasons. In addition to

I only want to use 3 out of the 5 bands on the board. In fact I'll probably only use two of them- the one on the U3s and two on the LPF switch. Do I need to install all the parts? I raided two of the

Pinvise?https://www.amazon.com/Hobbico-Pin-Vise-Collet-Bits/dp/B000X4OIWY ( https://www.amazon.com/Hobbico-Pin-Vise-Collet-Bits/dp/B000X4OIWY ) Good Luck. 73 John PD7MAA

I used the PCB and a pin vice to mark the holes , see my blog http://pa-11019.blogspot.nl/ ( http://pa-11019.blogspot.nl/ ) The origional BNC connector is not used . Good luck