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Tony Volpe
How will you manage the fact that the antenna will not present a low impedance to beacons operating at different frequencies?
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If I was doing that, I think I would give each beacon its own thin wire antenna. I use very fine wire for my antenna and it works really well, but it is more or less invisible, which for my situation is important. If you put the beacons at the top of your house, you could have 26swg wire 1/4 wave antennas coming outside and going to some poles in the garden. Where the end of the wire quarter wave would not reach the pole, you could make up the length to the tie off point with 30 pound mono filament fishing line, which is also pretty much invisible and has some elasticity which preserves the thin wire in strong wind. For poles to support the end of the wire, you can use telescopic fishing poles made of fibre glass. they are really quite cheap and work like shock absorbers. Each antenna would need a quarter wave counterpoise which could be routed about in the attic or loft of the house.
This way, each kit can transmit in its own time into a resonant antenna without having to worry about timing sequential transmissions, and antennas that don't match the output frequency. I've been messing about with HF antennas for thirty years and used to use heavy three mm wire. It looked awful and the neighbours didn't like it. Now I have one that REALLY works well for me. It is a 180ft horizontal loop made of 26swg wire, supported at its corners (two of them on top of the house attached to chimneys) with fishing line lanyards of clear 30 pound monofilament line. The two bottom supports down the garden are on poles hidden in trees and have elastic bungee cords to absorbe the pull of the wind. It hasn't broken all year and gives me startling performance on ?30 and 20 meters.?
I got these spots out of my 200 mw UQRSS last night on 30 meters bzb On 9 September 2012 10:24, paulwijnand <paulwijnand@...> wrote:
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