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Re: QCX-40 case


 

More info: it's a steel box, so I may use something else for a SOTA rig. But... the steel box is less delicate than aluminum, and not difficult to cut or drill. And those boxes are easy to find and inexpensive. I used a reciprocating saw and file for removing excess metal from the back panel. Should have removed a little more, to provide enough room for mounting jacks, buttons and other controls. I wasn't careful on choice of paint, so I baked the case several times to help the paint cure - and then sprayed it with clear enamel which dried much faster and better.


On Fri, Apr 26, 2019 at 9:59 AM Dave N3AC via Groups.Io <dcharing=[email protected]> wrote:
Look around for surplus boxes! The box was a salvaged A/B serial data switch box... stuff used long ago with computers, and now are readily available in the U.S. as surplus and have little value. We have 2 sizes readily available here; the smaller one is too small. After removing the DB-9 connectors on the back, I cut out more of the back panel and then glued circuit board over it, drilled holes, and used it for the front. The display is attached to the top, and the board is attached to the bottom. I had to get additional 3.5 mm stereo jacks and momentary contact switches to mount to the box.? Jacks on the sides make it difficult to open the case; I would consider mounting them on the front panel now (but it was getting crowded), or putting all the controls on the top with the display, as well as attaching the main board to the top (easier to open that way).

I did shorten the shaft on the volume-adjust variable resistor, so that the knobs extended about the same amount.

Even if planning on external button switches, I recommend installing the on-board switches (I didn't, and regretted it; they are useful for troubleshooting).

I'm thinking about moving the illumination var. resistor so that I can adjust it without opening the box, on my next QCX (for SOTA and other travels with change in lighting).

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