Also, clean the wire RIGHT UP TO THE BASE OF THE TOROID! Many times I thought I had cleaned it far enough but when I pulled it through with a little tension it went a little bit farther than I had sanded and a poor connection was the result. Oh the head ache. Even aspirin didn't help!
Dave K8WPE
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On Jul 25, 2018, at 10:14 AM, Kurt Zimmerman <
kurt@...> wrote:
When it comes to T1 I made an effort to start by sanding the varnish off the leads.? Then I heated each lead to burn off anything I might have missed.? So far I'm 2 for 2 with positive results.? I plan on doing that with my 30m version as well.
The piece of sandpaper I use is smaller than a postage stamp.? It is just large enough where I can fold it over then pass the wire through it.? I do this several times until I see the copper lead becomes dull in appearance.? At this point I'm quite confident that most if not all of the varnish has been removed.? The heating the lead makes it about 100%
Good luck.
73;
Kurt - W2MW
-------- Original Message --------
Subject: Re: [QRPLabs] Winding QCX T1 #qcx #t1
From: "Richard G4TGJ" <
rpt@...>
Date: Wed, July 25, 2018 8:28 am
To:
[email protected]
I'm not sure! In fact I'm sure there must be something wrong otherwise it would be working.
I've taken some readings again, this time with the internal volt meter. All the ICs look fine - some of the readings taken with my DVM were much higher than in the manual but that's because of the low impedance of the internal meter.
One thing I have noticed with the voltages on T1 are that pins 5 and 6 are different by 0.02V (1.77V and 1.79V with the internal meter and 2.54V and 2.56V with the DVM). Since these coils are just a few turns I assume they should be the same voltage. That enamel seems to be very tough!
David Wilcox K8WPE