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Anyone have measurements for the length of the stainless steel bow pulpit on their PSC 31? Wondering what the outside width measurement is and the measurement from the rollers forward to the forward end of the bow pulpit? Thanks, Daryl

Wondering if anyone has replaced the water lines in their PSC 31? It looks like the diesel tank may need to be removed to accomplish replacement of the lines leading aft from the galley sink area and to the hot water heater and head sink? I was rather perplexed by the connection of the COLD WATER line to the HOT WATER HEATER, as it was routed from under the GALLEY SINK, through the water heater compartment, under the cabin sole. Then probably coupled with a tee under the cabin sole - from there it comes back up under the GALLEY SINK/ HOT WATER HEATER compartment to the HOT WATER HEATER; and also AFT to the head sink. Here is a marked up photo of the hot water heater: Not wanting to take out the diesel tank.... Daryl S/Y Intuition - PSC 31 #54

Pacific Seacraft 31 Owners Group: Fall / Winter Greetings! I just wanted to provide an update on the first season usage and winterization of the ISOTMP SPA 15: Installation was fairly straight forward, the ISOTEMP SPA 15 fits nicely in the space under the GALLEY SINK/CUTTING BOARD/DRAWERS. I did need to make some spacers for under the feet of the tank mounts, as the drain line needed to have a bit more room under the tank: The fittings to connect the cold and hot water lines to the tank, as well as the engine coolant lines, mount on the front of the tank, unlike the ATWOOD style water heaters. This really made post installation testing of the electric and verification that the hot/cold distributions lines were drip free! As the connections to the engine coolant lines to the water heater could be made after everything else was working. If you install an ISOTEMP SPA 15, one thing I discovered is that the connections made at the factory to the MIXER were not sealed properly - and leaked rather profusely! Make certain you seal all mechanical joints with the proper sealantr rated for hot water heaters. I also used SHARK, solderless connections for the HOT/COLD water line connections to the heater, which made it quite a bit easier to adapt to getting the connections figured out. Here is the current installation, before wiring in the 110 V AC circuit box and connecting the engine coolant lines. NOTE: the clear tubing connecting the COLD water input from the COLD WATER BYPASS valve to the TANK. Due to a failure of a reused BYPASS VALVE, it became necessary to use flexible line to couple the COLD WATER to the TANK. This provided an unexpected benefit when filling the TANK with fresh water - of actually being able to see the water flowing into the tank! 1. I found the ISOTEMP SPA 15 provided excellent heating and storage of hot water, both at the dock and underway over the sailing season on Lake Superior. 2. Winterization of the ISOTEMP SPA 15 was a SNAP:!What I did not realize on the HOT WATER CIRCUIT - is that it seems to develop a bit of vapor lock, which affects winterizing efforts. 3. I plumbed the HOT WATER CIRCUIT so that I could winterize the HOT WATER TANK without disconnecting hoses - using two BYPASS VALVES: one for the cold water inlet and one for the HOT water outlet. Note: Winterization process is as follows: 1. I shut off the hot water electric 110V AC circuit. 2. Then open the DRAIN on the ISOTEMP SPA 15 (Accomplished by rotating a black knob drain knob) - water should exit out of the drain line. 3. I found the drain to barely drip when open. 4. Fortunately, the ISOTEMP SPA 15 has a pressure release screw located at the top of the tank - once that screw is opened up, the tank drains quickly! 5. I have a hose that I connected to the drain line and collect the water in a pot, but could also be drained into the bilge (providing you haven't already winterized the bilge pump). So far, very happy with the ISOTEMP SPA 15, the mixer works well - no longer have to worry about scalding hot water coming out of the tap... I have done a fair amount of electrical wiring in residential and boat environments. This was the first marine hot water heater install that I have attempted. I found some excellent YOUTUBE videos which provided some help in planning. But each installation is a tad different and I spent quite a bit of time planning the installation; reacting to unforeseen problems; as well as availability of plumbing parts locally. Love the SHARK solderless brass fittings; although they are a tad expensive compared to other methods, they rotate after installation around the tubing, which makes it easy to install in tight spaces. I like the color coding of PEX tubing. I may in the future invest in a PEX CRIMPING tool, so that I could use cheaper fittings, as I plan to replace the rest of the hot/cold water lines originally installed on Intuition. Daryl S/Y Intuition - PSC 31 # 054

“My” PSC 31 has 50’ of chain and 150’ of rode. I was wondering how best to deal with the rode in order for it to go down the hawse pipe in preparation for the gypsy to take up the chain. I doubt I would anchor often in more than 50’, so I suppose I would manually take up the rode while guiding it down the pipe until I could get the chain started. Another option would be to get 200’ of chain. I welcome and thank you for your feedback. Stu

During a few rainy days during commissioning of Intuition this spring, I focused on examining the brass Sea Dog overhead dome lights on my 1990 Vintage PSC 31. What initially looked that sever corrosion, turned out to be nothing more than oxidation probably caused by oils on our hands. I found that the overhead dome lights could be taken completely apart, without disconnecting the wiring: remove the brass ring and glass light diffuser (3 small screws); then remove the light bulb (double bayonet non indexed ) ; now remove the nut holding the on/off switch to the base; then remove the screws from the fixture base (3). Turn the base around and notice there is one small stainless screw holding the bayonet mount to the base. The wires are now still attached to the bayonet bulb mount; but the base and trim ring can now be polished. I used one of my favorite polishing products: Colonel Brassy ( https://www.amazon.com/Colonel-Brassy-16-Surface-Cleaner/dp/B004N0IZNC ).