After restoration, I started replacing the double bayonet bulbs with BA15D LED’s. I installed one from WEST MARINE. It was 200 Lumens ; they now have one with 400 lumens.

Daryl

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During a few rainy days during commissioning of Intuition this spring, I focused on examining the brass Sea Dog overhead dome lights on my 1990 Vintage PSC 31. What initially looked that sever corrosion, turned out to be nothing more than oxidation probably caused by oils on our hands. I found that the overhead dome lights could be taken completely apart, without disconnecting the wiring: remove the brass ring and glass light diffuser (3 small screws); then remove the light bulb (double bayonet non indexed ) ; now remove the nut holding the on/off switch to the base; then remove the screws from the fixture base (3). Turn the base around and notice there is one small stainless screw holding the bayonet mount to the base.?

The wires are now still attached to the bayonet bulb mount; but the base and trim ring can now be polished. I used one of my favorite polishing products: Colonel Brassy (??).

Most of our Pacific Seacraft Sailing Vessels have the ubiquitous GROCO HF head/toilet! I have often found that the head will flush when water is dispensed into the bowl, but will not draw water from the thru-hull! Dock mates of mine, the founders of Good Old Boat Magazine (Karen Larsen and Jerry Powlas), offered their solution to the problem. They wash their dishes in a tub and use the gray water to flush their heads with.

So, during my commissioning this spring, I thought I would try something similar. I also immediately had problems drawing water with the hand pump from the thru-hull: so I took some dish washing had soap and drizzled some down the pump handle shaft into the pump body! Voila - Merci the pump miraculously started working again.

Daryl
s/y Intuition - PSC Crealock 31 # 54 (1990 Vintage)

I forgot to mention that the ISOTEMP SPA series water heaters come with a 115 volt A/C power cord. I had to install a fiberglass outlet box. The original ATWOOD water heater was wired directly to the water heater. The wiring was long enough to mount on the inside of the galley cabinet, to the left of the new water heater.?

One thing to to remember is Marine wiring is stranded and tinned wire. Household wiring is solid copper - not to be used on boats per ABYC rules. There do not appear to be Marine grade outlets and residential grade outlets are made for stripped solid copper wire. Stranded wire does not wrap around outlet terminals and with vibration can loosen.

Good Old Boat magazine had an article recently about using crimped on ferrules to ameliorate this problem. The wire used by PSC is 12 gauge stranded wire. Using ferrules for 12 gauge took some effort to get a solid connection and did not wrap around the screw like solid copper wires does, so it was more of a compression fit on the outlet screw!

Another, perhaps better way may be to use a U shaped crimp wire connector with the locking tab: the industry name is forked flange crimping connector ( I believe). Reviewing commentary on ABYC rules, the ferrules and flanged fork terminals appear to be the approved methods.?

Follow up on the water heater installation: The ISOTEMP SPA 15 fits the galley cabinet very nicely. I did need to install some 1/4 inch starboard spacers under the mounting feet to accommodate attaching a 1/2 inch Female NPT 90 degree elbow on the tank drain outlet fitting. I also had to use Teflon tape on the mixer connections to the water heater on both hot and cold connections, they were not sealed at the factory and relied on compression fittings alone.

The heat exchanger hoses from the engine are 5/8 “ I.D. (Inside diameter) purchased bronze 90 degree elbows (female to female) from West Marine and brass 1/2 inch NPT brass hose barbs from granger.com. The original hoses from the engine were reused and had to be cut shorter due to mounting on the front of the water heater. I used the PEX tubing cutter for this, but one of the hoses was reinforced with wire, which had to be cut with heavy duty wire cutters.

i re-plumbed the hot and cold water lines to and from the galley sink with 1/2 inch PEX ?tubing and used the PEX shark connectors with appropriate 1/2 inch NPT female fittings to connect to the water heater tank. Also installing a SEAGULL IV water filter in line with the water pump.

i installed by-pass valves on the hot and cold inlets to the water tank for easy bypass of the tank for winterization. Which were also handy when I need to sanitize either water tank without having to contaminate the water tank.

The first photo is the current installation, I had a bad by-pass valve and the spare had a different 1/2 NPT gender, so I had to improvise to get it working, as the local hardware store did not have the correct fitting in stock. The plus, I have found, is I can see the water flowing through the transparent tubing when winterizing and cleaning/clearing lines.

One of the benefits of using the PEX shark fittings is that you can rotate the tubing in the fitting to orientate connections.And you can disconnect the tubing with the proper tool if you make a mistake or need to make changes.

The ISOTEMP SPA 15 has a built in cold water mixer, so no more worries about scalding yourself at the hot water tap.


Love having hot water Again!

Hey All, Interlude is hull 50 a 1989. She has a Merriman pedestal and two years ago replaced the chain and cables when we had to drop the rudder for some cutless work. Otta be good to go for another 30 years! At some point PSC moved to rack and pinion for all builds. Must admit, though everyone here knows, she is so balanced when under sail I almost wish I had a tiller. Not gunna happen though!

Hello All,

For the last 14 years or so, we've been cruising about Maine in our Westsail 43. We love all 40,000 pounds of her, but it's time for us to downsize.
I've done a lot of sailing, done the pond, sailed for years in Europe and Croatia, and know what I'm looking for.

While I feel strongly that the PC 31 is the perfect fit, I have never been aboard one - so I would not feel confident making an offer and travelling a great distance to see a particular boat being offered for sale.

My question is, does anyone know of a PC 31 somewhere in New England, or even as far south as PA, whose owner might be agreeable to let us see theirs? We are fully vaccinated and extraordinarily cautious re Covid.?

Thanks in advance for any help.

Randy

John,

I usually think of rack and pinion steering as more like the Island Packet yachts.

I think of the standard EDISON and my MERRIMAN steering pedestal system as chain and wire cable systems.

I will have to check with the factory what rack and pinion systems they might have used. Perhaps this is just a terminology issue.

John,

I have been working on a five year plan since purchasing Intuition, a 1990 PSC 31.

#1: take apart your mast step and check for any water intrusion; I would suggest reaming out the mounting holes and sealing with epoxy; then set up a schedule to renew every five years.
#2: pull your companion way (horizontal) sliding hatch and inspect for any rot or termite infestation- a lot will depend upon how well others have maintained it!
# 3: as with #1, check/repair/rebed deck hardware.

#4: Intuition is over 30 now and I replaced motor mounts; replaced raw water intake and exhaust hoses. Serviced the GROCO water strainer (replaced ORINGS, etc). I have purchased parts to evaluated condition of RAW WATER intake to heat exchanger circuit. Replaced fuel system hoses.

I have a spreadsheet of commissioning and decommissioning tasks.

I will try to add more details

Daryl

Funny, I assumed that something like steering would have been standard on all PS 31s. I am no expert, but I’m 99% sure that my boat must have the Edson CDi steering system. I have found an Edson manual for it. It recommends lubricating the rack and pinion in the top of the binnacle, the needle bearings at the top and bottom of the binnacle, and joints in the rod ends of the link to the rudder. Not much description on how to do all this. And, they sell a rebuild kit, but no explanation of when you might need it or how to install it. My guess is that some day the steering will either feel too stiff or too sloppy and then need the kit. If anyone has experience with this all, I’d be grateful to hear it.

This also raises a more general question for a group like this: is there any maintenance work you wished someone had warned you about so that you could have avoided bigger issues when you missed it. To give two examples (both of which apply to all boats, not just PS 31):

A. after not using the whisker pole that came with the boat for several years (it is stored on clamps attached to lifeline stanchions), I discovered that salt water had corroded it to point that I needed a new end fitting (not cheap) and connector inside the pole. I now wash it with soap and water regularly.

B. I found the battery connections on a spotlight I bought for the boat corroded and falling apart. Looking at other battery operated devices onboard (flashlights, TV remotes, etc.) I found similar outcomes. I now coat all battery contacts with Lanocote as soon as they come on board.

John

She is a 1988 and has cable and chain. I have owned her since new. And yes it is Edson.
Marlena

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I have 31 with cable steering. Was not aware that PS used rack and pinion.

What year is your PSC 31? I know there are few with Rack and Pinion steering; not sure exactly when it was offered!

Your PSC owner’s manual should have a section on it, they usually were very good about including manufacturers manuals.

Is it and EDSON? Would be good to document and add to the files section.



Daryl
s/y Intuition PSC 31 # 54

I noticed that last year Daryl Clark posted a file on Edson steering maintenance. I have two questions that I hoped the group might help with:
1. I am right that this file is talking of cable controlled steering and the standard on the PS 31 is rack and pinion steering?
2. Does the rack and pinion steering require regular maintenance? Has anyone in the group done or had done that maintenance? What does it entail?

Thanks.
John Kroll

WEST MARINE has a 2 for 1 sale on LEWMAR WINCHES (including the lovely bronze winches) purchased a pair of ST16's two years ago, tremendous deal!


Daryl
s/y Intuition - PSC 31 #54

I made the pilgrimage to the boat last week. The ISOTEMP SPA 15 looks like the best fit! The cabinet opening is 335mm (13.25 inches) wide; 385mm (15") high. The real determining factor though is the depth from back of cabinet face to where hull starts to rise above the hot water heater mounting platform: 540mm (21.5") . There is about 680mm (27") to storage cubby under the sink along the port hull under the galley. But there is about a 1 to 1.5 inch rise which makes it seem doubtful the SPA 20 could fit in that space due to length of the water heater.

Water heater on order! Will post photos of installation. (There are some nice you tube video of installation on other vessels)

Found a great web site to check Hull Identification Numbers, just enter your HIN number!

?

New Format Mandatory? -? August 1, 1984 Manufacturers ?Identification Code Production or Serial Number *Month of Production Year of Production Model Year ABC 12345 A 7 88 ????* A - January????????? D - April????????? G - July??????????? J - October ????? B - February???? ?? ?E - May??????????? H - August??????????K - November ????? C - March???? ?????? F - June?????????? I - September???????L - December?????? ? Straight Year Format November 1, 1972 Manufacturers Identification Code Production or Serial Number Month of Production Year of Production ABC 12345 12 75 ? Model Year Format Optional - November 1, 1972 Manufacturers ?Identification Code Production or Serial Number Indicates Model Year Format Model Year *Production Month ABC 12345 M 75 A ????* A - August????????? D - November????????? G - February?????????J - May ????? B - September???? ??E - December????????? H - March????????????K - June ????? C - October???????? F - January?????????? I - April????????????L - July?? Note: The letters "I", "O", and "Q" are forbidden in the Production or Serial Number In addition to the above formats, you may encounter those which are preceded by country codes such as "US" for the United states, "CN" for Canada, and "FR" for France. This means that the vessel was built for consumption in that respective country. You may also find hull numbers on two separate lines. In this case the second line is not typically considered as part of the hull number. State assigned hull numbers are not always consistent with federal standards.

?

Vicki,
Any chance you are near your boat? I measured the old Atwood and it's footprint; but did not measure how much further back the water heater could protrude past the original mounting position.
I will probably wait for spring to make a final decision, but right now it is between the SPA 15 and SPA 20 (4 and 5.3 gallon) water heaters by ISOTEMP.?
Did you leave the engine coolant hoses in? place for future replacement of the water tank?

Daryl()