Stu, Looks like your photos did not make it? I am guessing you are installing Air Conditioning?

Daryl

Hello Group,
I am in St. Augustine, FL at the Marker 8 Hotel & Marina where I met a Dometic Dealer who has been spending Winters down here for 20 some years. ?He helped me, or rather I helped him install a unit on my 31’ “LOUISE”. ?It was a fun and sometimes challenging project but it is 95% complete. ?I still need to build a box to direct airflow forward. ?Attached are some pictures.
Stu
edit: Pictures in Photos folder under s/v LOUISE

Wondering if anyone has replaced the water lines in their PSC 31?

It looks like the diesel tank may need to be removed to accomplish replacement of the lines leading aft from the galley sink area and to the hot water heater and head sink??

I was rather perplexed by the connection of the COLD WATER line to the HOT WATER HEATER, as it was routed from under the GALLEY SINK, through the water heater compartment, under the cabin sole.

Then probably coupled with a tee under the cabin sole - from there it comes back up under the GALLEY SINK/ HOT WATER HEATER compartment to the HOT WATER HEATER; and also AFT to the head sink.

Here is a marked up photo of the hot water heater:



Not wanting to take out the diesel tank....

Daryl
S/Y Intuition - PSC 31 #54

Pacific Seacraft 31 Owners Group: Fall / Winter Greetings!

I just wanted to provide an update on the first season usage and winterization of the ISOTMP SPA 15:

Installation was fairly straight forward, the ISOTEMP SPA 15 fits nicely in the space under the GALLEY SINK/CUTTING BOARD/DRAWERS.

I did need to make some spacers for under the feet of the tank mounts, as the drain line needed to have a bit more room under the tank:

The fittings to connect the cold and hot water lines to the tank, as well as the engine coolant lines, mount on the front of the tank, unlike the ATWOOD style water heaters.



This really made post installation? testing of the electric and? verification that the hot/cold distributions lines? were drip free!
As the connections to? the engine coolant lines to the water heater could be made after everything else was working.

If you install an ISOTEMP SPA 15, one thing I discovered is that the connections made at the factory to the MIXER were not sealed properly - and leaked rather profusely! Make certain you seal all mechanical joints with the proper sealantr rated for hot water heaters.

I also used SHARK, solderless connections for the HOT/COLD water line connections to the heater, which made it quite a bit easier to adapt to getting the connections figured out.

Here is the current installation, before wiring in the 110 V AC circuit box and connecting the engine coolant lines.



NOTE:? the clear tubing connecting the COLD water input from the COLD WATER BYPASS valve to the TANK.

Due to a failure of a reused BYPASS VALVE, it became necessary to use flexible line to couple the COLD WATER to the TANK.

This provided an unexpected benefit when filling the TANK with fresh water -? of actually being able to see the water flowing into the tank!

1. I found the ISOTEMP SPA 15 provided excellent heating and storage of hot water, both at the dock and underway over the sailing season on Lake Superior.
2. Winterization of the ISOTEMP SPA 15 was a SNAP:!What I did not realize on the HOT WATER CIRCUIT - is that it seems to develop a bit of vapor lock, which affects winterizing efforts.
3. I plumbed the HOT WATER CIRCUIT so that I could winterize the HOT WATER TANK without disconnecting hoses - using two BYPASS VALVES: one for the cold water inlet and one for the HOT water outlet.

Note: Winterization? process is as follows:

So far, very happy with the ISOTEMP SPA 15, the mixer works well - no longer have to worry about scalding hot water coming out of the tap... I have done a fair amount of electrical wiring in residential and boat environments. This was the first marine hot water heater install that I have attempted. I found some excellent YOUTUBE videos which provided some help in planning. But each installation is a tad different and I spent quite a bit of time planning the installation; reacting to unforeseen problems; as well as availability of plumbing parts locally. Love the SHARK solderless brass fittings; although they are a tad expensive compared to other methods, they rotate after installation around the tubing, which makes it easy to install in tight spaces. I like the color coding of PEX tubing. I may in the future invest in a PEX CRIMPING tool, so that I could use cheaper fittings, as I plan to replace the rest of the hot/cold water lines originally installed on Intuition.

Daryl
S/Y Intuition - PSC 31 # 054

I think the PSC 31 and the Dana interiors were the departure, Crealock designed everything but the Interior on those models. So perhaps that is what you were referring to:?Joseph Artese, who designed the interior of the 90-foot sloop Whitefin, was commissioned to conceive the 31s layout.

Daryl

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There are several ways to clean the vent line out; compressed air works well!

But, when you have the tank PUMPED OUT at the marina: have them over fill the tank several times to clear out the vent line.?

Another good trick I learned when having issues with the GROCO head: have the tank emptied just before working on it! As they are pumping out the head, add some fresh water? to the GROCO BOWL ( I use the shower head and add fresh water ). It is alot easier to work on the head plumbing after it is pumped out - the pump will suck the water right out of the hoses.

Daryl
s/y Intuition - PSC 31 #54

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Mine is right next to the diesel vent on the starboard side.

Finally found a solution that seems to work well and gives the main great sail shape when reefed, without alot of friction or hassle.

I had tried to create a single line reefing system: installed harken ball bearing blocks on reefing tack cringles to try to get the friction under control. This involved a block on each tack cringle and two blocks at the mast step for each reefing line, plus friction of deck organizer - ugly is the best I can describe it! Difficult to put the reefs in and almost impossible to get the reef to shake out once the wind died down.

Never seemed to work as well as it did on my Dana or Flicka.?

The PSC 31 drawings do not specify SINGLE LINE REEFING, probably for that reason.? I now have a single line for the tack reefing webbing cringle that gets attached to either first or second reef with a quick release snap shackle. The clew reefing lines are then used independently of the tack line routed inside the boom (Le Fiel with rotating gooseneck) down to a block at mast step, then through the deck organizer to a rope clutch and self tailing winch.

The tack cringle reefing line is routed slightly forward on the mast step so that it pulls the tack down and forward, creating a nice crisp angle on the sail and keeps the sail shape proper when reefed. Since I have a loose footed main, the bunting lines are easy to tie in with no chance of binding on the boom.

Reefs go in nicely and shake out just as nice!

Daryl Clark
s/y Intuition - PSC 31 # 54

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You might try to find a wood turner in your area who could create a new mount from wood or even plastic.?

Thanks Daryl.

PSC mostly used Sea Dog reading lamps. But, have not seen them with a plastic mounting base. Probably looking at a new fixture. Here are the models listed in the Owners manual. You may need to give the factory a call, as they do not list the chrome berth light.

1. Brass Berth Light Seadog Line 400400 15
2. Dome Light (Brass) Seadog Line 400195 15
3. Dome Light (Chrome) Seadog Line 400100 15
4. Chart Table Lamp Aqua Signal 3132012 5
5. Flourescent Light Aqua Signal 3130042 8
6. Day/Night Dome Light (Optional) Seadog Line 400350 15
7. Exterior
8. Combination Bow/Deck Light Forespar ML2 20
9. Port and Starboard Bow Light Hellamarine 2LT002386-01 25
10. Stern Light Hellamarine 2386 10
11. Mast Light (Standard) Perko 1197000CHR 10
12. Tricolor Anchor/Stroke Aqua Signal 33547-95 10 & 25

Daryl

My first boat repair, lol

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