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Re: Df and FTZ compatibility with pre-AI lenses - In answer to my own question
It looks like that link is talking about a variety of options for adapters. ?Most of the adapters I¡¯ve gotten for my D800 were garbage. ?On the other hand I¡¯ve had good luck, and bad luck with adapters for the Leica. ?The best brands I¡¯ve found are as follows:
Leica Voigtlander Rayqual Novoflex
If you can find Rayqual or Novoflex adapters for what you want, I¡¯m definitely inclined to recommend them.
Fotodiox adapters are about as low in the market as I¡¯m willing to go. ?I have a couple, and they¡¯re not bad, they just aren¡¯t as nice as the Novoflex, or even the Rayqual. ?OTOH, Fotodiox makes adapters that no one else does, like my adapter to use my D800 on my 4x5 LF cameras.
I see one Novoflex adapter I¡¯d probably buy for the Nikon Z, as it would let me use my Leica M lenses. ?They have a Nikon F adapter for the Nikon Z, but I can¡¯t imagine why anyone would spend that kind of money, instead of getting the FTZ adapter. ?I¡¯d have to do some thinking if I¡¯d go with Novoflex or Fotodiox for M42 lenses. ?For Minolta, Olympus, and Pentax, I¡¯d likely go Fotodiox, due to the cost of the Novoflex adapters.
Zane
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On Apr 7, 2023, at 3:15 PM, Bob Morse <stilljustbob@...> wrote:
I just found this link, but still have more confidence in this group of familiar names than an unknown responder to DPreview.
? /AnotherBob?
Expert news, reviews and videos of the latest digital cameras, lenses, accessories, and phones. Get answers to your questions in our photography forums. |
Consignment shops and yard sales have numerous 1970's Nikon film cameras with pre-AI lenses at nearly dumpster prices.? My understanding is that, of the digital Nikons, only the Df can safely mount these lenses.?
- What is different about the Df design that allows safe mounting?
- Would pre-AI lenses safely mount onto a current mirrorless body, using an FTZ?? Assuming all manual settings.?
- ?I have successfully used my old Minolta Rokkor lenses on my Z6, with a MetaBones adapter. The results are obviously not a match for new equipment, but fun to see the results, and I do have a few "good at the time" Rokkor lenses.
Do any of you have experience with pre-AI lenses on a Df body or with adapters?
?? /AnotherBob
|
Re: Df and FTZ compatibility with pre-AI lenses
Thank you Walt, and all other who responded so quickly. I've not yet tried to contact John White, but his site is full of good information.
? /AnotherBob
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John White did AI conversions for non-AI lenses https://aiconversions.com
?
Walt
?
Photography is a language more universal than words. Minor White
?
_._,_._,_
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Re: Df and FTZ compatibility with pre-AI lenses - In answer to my own question
I just found this link, but still have more confidence in this group of familiar names than an unknown responder to DPreview.
? /AnotherBob
|
Expert news, reviews and videos of the latest digital cameras, lenses, accessories, and phones. Get answers to your questions in our photography forums.
www.dpreview.com
|
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Show quoted text
Consignment shops and yard sales have numerous 1970's Nikon film cameras with pre-AI lenses at nearly dumpster prices.? My understanding is that, of the digital Nikons, only the Df can safely mount these lenses.
- What is different about the Df design that allows safe mounting?
- Would pre-AI lenses safely mount onto a current mirrorless body, using an FTZ?? Assuming all manual settings.
- ?I have successfully used my old Minolta Rokkor lenses on my Z6, with a MetaBones adapter. The results are obviously not a match for new equipment, but fun to see the results, and I do have a few "good at the time" Rokkor lenses.
Do any of you have experience with pre-AI lenses on a Df body or with adapters?
?? /AnotherBob
|
Re: Df and FTZ compatibility with pre-AI lenses
On Apr 7, 2023, at 2:27 PM, Walt <walt.polley@...> wrote:
John White did AI conversions for non-AI lenses? ?
Once again, you¡¯re trying to convince me to get a Z-body. :-)
| |
Based on this table, you don¡¯t need to have them converted, you can just use the FTZ adapter.
Zane
Re: Df and FTZ compatibility with pre-AI lenses
That¡¯s the name. He did a good conversion.
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John White did AI conversions for non-AI lenses ? Walt ? Photography is a language more universal than words. Minor White ? ? Consignment shops and yard sales have numerous 1970's Nikon film cameras with pre-AI lenses at nearly dumpster prices.? My understanding is that, of the digital Nikons, only the Df can safely mount these lenses. - What is different about the Df design that allows safe mounting?
- Would pre-AI lenses safely mount onto a current mirrorless body, using an FTZ?? Assuming all manual settings.
- ?I have successfully used my old Minolta Rokkor lenses on my Z6, with a MetaBones adapter. The results are obviously not a match for new equipment, but fun to see the results, and I do have a few "good at the time" Rokkor lenses.
Do any of you have experience with pre-AI lenses on a Df body or with adapters?
|
Re: Df and FTZ compatibility with pre-AI lenses
John White did AI conversions for non-AI lenses https://aiconversions.com ? Walt ? Photography is a language more universal than words. Minor White ?
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From: [email protected] < [email protected]> On Behalf Of Bob Morse Sent: Friday, April 7, 2023 3:50 PM To: [email protected]Subject: [Nikon-DSLR] Df and FTZ compatibility with pre-AI lenses ? Consignment shops and yard sales have numerous 1970's Nikon film cameras with pre-AI lenses at nearly dumpster prices.? My understanding is that, of the digital Nikons, only the Df can safely mount these lenses. - What is different about the Df design that allows safe mounting?
- Would pre-AI lenses safely mount onto a current mirrorless body, using an FTZ?? Assuming all manual settings.
- ?I have successfully used my old Minolta Rokkor lenses on my Z6, with a MetaBones adapter. The results are obviously not a match for new equipment, but fun to see the results, and I do have a few "good at the time" Rokkor lenses.
Do any of you have experience with pre-AI lenses on a Df body or with adapters?
|
Re: Df and FTZ compatibility with pre-AI lenses
To answer your question about the Df, it has the necessary coupling of the Pre-Ai F-mount lenses. ?It¡¯s also worth noting that the Df has done very good at retaining its value.
As for mounting pre-Ai lenses on a mirrorless body. ?My main advice, is make sure that everything clears. ?I was able to get a Pre-Ai lens mounted on my D800, but it didn¡¯t want to come off. ?If I remember correctly I had to remove the coupler to get it off.
Zane
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On Apr 7, 2023, at 1:50 PM, Bob Morse <stilljustbob@...> wrote:
Consignment shops and yard sales have numerous 1970's Nikon film cameras with pre-AI lenses at nearly dumpster prices.? My understanding is that, of the digital Nikons, only the Df can safely mount these lenses.?
- What is different about the Df design that allows safe mounting?
- Would pre-AI lenses safely mount onto a current mirrorless body, using an FTZ?? Assuming all manual settings.?
- ?I have successfully used my old Minolta Rokkor lenses on my Z6, with a MetaBones adapter. The results are obviously not a match for new equipment, but fun to see the results, and I do have a few "good at the time" Rokkor lenses.
Do any of you have experience with pre-AI lenses on a Df body or with adapters?
?? /AnotherBob
|
Re: Df and FTZ compatibility with pre-AI lenses
Really all that needs to happen is to covert it to Ai. ?I have several that have been converted (and others that haven¡¯t). ?My grandparents had my Pre-Ai 135mm f/2.8 converted when I bought my Nikon FM2 (used), back in 1986. ?The Pre-Ai lens I use the most is a 55mm f/3.5 Micro. ?Some of the Pre-Ai lenses are still quite good. ?Others aren¡¯t. :-)
You might check to see if there is an adapter for Pre-Ai lenses for the Z6 (if ones needed). ?I¡¯ve used a Pre-AI 50mm f/1.4 on my Leica M10-P using a Nikon adapter (the adapter works with anything up to a ¡°G¡± lens).
I¡¯m glad to hear you¡¯re seeing success with the Minolta Rokkor lenses, that¡¯s an adapter I¡¯ll want when I finally get a Z body.
I¡¯ve been having fun with M42 lenses on my M10-P, but would rather shoot them on a Z body. ?
Zane
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On Apr 7, 2023, at 1:50 PM, Bob Morse <stilljustbob@...> wrote:
Consignment shops and yard sales have numerous 1970's Nikon film cameras with pre-AI lenses at nearly dumpster prices.? My understanding is that, of the digital Nikons, only the Df can safely mount these lenses.?
- What is different about the Df design that allows safe mounting?
- Would pre-AI lenses safely mount onto a current mirrorless body, using an FTZ?? Assuming all manual settings.?
- ?I have successfully used my old Minolta Rokkor lenses on my Z6, with a MetaBones adapter. The results are obviously not a match for new equipment, but fun to see the results, and I do have a few "good at the time" Rokkor lenses.
Do any of you have experience with pre-AI lenses on a Df body or with adapters?
?? /AnotherBob
|
Re: Df and FTZ compatibility with pre-AI lenses
There is / was a guy in Michigan ?that converted these old lenses to work on on the digital Nikons.
I had ?two or three done.
I¡¯ll see if I remember his name.
Hugh
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Consignment shops and yard sales have numerous 1970's Nikon film cameras with pre-AI lenses at nearly dumpster prices.? My understanding is that, of the digital Nikons, only the Df can safely mount these lenses.?
- What is different about the Df design that allows safe mounting?
- Would pre-AI lenses safely mount onto a current mirrorless body, using an FTZ?? Assuming all manual settings.?
- ?I have successfully used my old Minolta Rokkor lenses on my Z6, with a MetaBones adapter. The results are obviously not a match for new equipment, but fun to see the results, and I do have a few "good at the time" Rokkor lenses.
Do any of you have experience with pre-AI lenses on a Df body or with adapters?
?? /AnotherBob
|
Df and FTZ compatibility with pre-AI lenses
Consignment shops and yard sales have numerous 1970's Nikon film cameras with pre-AI lenses at nearly dumpster prices.? My understanding is that, of the digital Nikons, only the Df can safely mount these lenses.
- What is different about the Df design that allows safe mounting?
- Would pre-AI lenses safely mount onto a current mirrorless body, using an FTZ?? Assuming all manual settings.
- ?I have successfully used my old Minolta Rokkor lenses on my Z6, with a MetaBones adapter. The results are obviously not a match for new equipment, but fun to see the results, and I do have a few "good at the time" Rokkor lenses.
Do any of you have experience with pre-AI lenses on a Df body or with adapters?
?? /AnotherBob
|
Thanks for the info Louis. I¡¯ve ordered the TetherPro cable for my D810.
This got me to thinking about a friend who shoots a D300s and doesn¡¯t have lightroom who might be?interested in shooting some things tethered. In there case I see there are a few free software packages that may work. Does anyone have any experience with any of the free tethering software tools?
Thanks for everyone¡¯s input.
Jon
On Thu, Apr 6, 2023 at 12:26 Louis Weyl < lbweyl@...> wrote: Hello, guys, and Happy Passover ( guess it is Passover for you soon). I have used the CamRanger (first version). It is very reliable and allows setting up certain specifications to your own liking for any device using internal Wifi. No cable is needed. No tripping, etc. In my case, I used a laptop to?connect my D810. However, the issue (the word problem is not the right word) is that sending a full RAW file would take up to 30 seconds. Or more. I adjusted the settings and shot RAW with a JPG small. This JPG small (instead of the full RAW) was sent over the Wifi connection to the laptop in around 10-15 seconds. Still to long for my liking that is why I gave up using the CamRanger after a few years.? There is a new version of the CamRanger called version II. It seems to be much faster.? There are other companies out there but I forgot the name.?
Hope this helps. Louis | ? | Louis Weyl
??? ??????? ?????????, ????? ???? ????? | |
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On Thu, Apr 6, 2023 at 4:11?AM Zane Healy < healyzh@...> wrote: Sounds pretty cool!? I¡¯ve wanted to try this, but when it would have been the most use, I didn¡¯t have software that supported it.? I¡¯d love this when doing Macro work.? It makes me wish I had a proper studio to work in.
Zane
> On Apr 5, 2023, at 4:33 PM, Jon <kd5sfa@...> wrote:
>
> I just tried a micro usb to the laptop with the tether option in LR. It was only the USB 2.0 port but it worked. Had to hold the cable just right to maintain? connection at the camera. I am looking at the tetherpro cable with the right angle connector. I may order the cable with the USB-C connector for the laptop side.
>
> It was good to see something work without a lot of configuration settings having to be made.
|
Re: A small selection of photo's
That¡¯s a little on the high end from what I checked, but not crazy. ?I assume the scanning options are two levels of JPEG, and then TIFF? ?Basically I¡¯m assuming they¡¯re using the Noritsu film scanner. ?I usually just pay for the mid-level scans (2000x2000 JPEG). ?I also do prints. ?But then if I¡¯m taking 120 film to the lab, it¡¯s normally color print, sometimes color slide. ?I just get the scans so I can share online.
I have a mixture of scanners. ?My favorite is a Kodak Pakton F-135+, I was lucky and got mine when they were at their low-point price wise. ?It¡¯s great, and can scan a roll of 35mm film in about 5 minutes. ?Needless to say, I don¡¯t pay for 35mm scans. ?I have a project right now that I¡¯m working on to scan Nikon negatives from the late 80¡¯s. ?When the negatives are cut so there is only a frame or two, I can¡¯t run them through the Kodak. ?I had been using a Nikon CoolScan IV, but it has developed issues, so I picked up a OpticFilm 8300i, so far I¡¯m not happy with the results from it, hopefully I simply need to get better at using it. ?I also have an Epson V850, and I use it for my 120, 4x5, and 8x10 film scans. ?I get the best results from 8x10, with the film directly on the glass. ?BTW, I couldn¡¯t get 35mm slide scans I was even remotely happy with, when trying to use the V850.
Realistically, the cost to get everything needed to develop a couple rolls of 35mm or a roll of 120 is pretty small. ?Especially at those prices. ?For scanning you might also consider your Nikon DSLR, a light box, copy stand, and a Macro Lens. ?That¡¯s the route most people seem to go now.
Zane
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On Apr 6, 2023, at 10:29 AM, Jon <kd5sfa@...> wrote:
This was at a pro level camera store. The scanning cost more than the developing but I wasn¡¯t going to buy prints. I don¡¯t know what scanner they have but it was not a flatbed scanner. I have the Epson ?v600 or v800 in mind for future purchase.? I have a friend that when she is taking classes at a local community college has access to the photo lab there and can do my developing for me until such time that I get the stuff together to do my own.
Jon On Thu, Apr 6, 2023 at 12:02 Zane Healy < healyzh@...> wrote: When we first got this house, I had a closet setup so that I could close myself in it, and load film into a daylight tank. ?
It looks like your needs for processing film are pretty basic, so I¡¯d recommend a 2-reel Paterson daylight tank.? That will let you do 2 rolls of 35mm or 1 roll of 120.? I¡¯ve used mine since the late-80¡¯s, and originally bought it to process slide film in port while I was onboard a Frigate (I was shooting slides with 3D cameras, and would take the print film from my Nikon FM2 to the 1-hour place at the mall).? The Ilford chemicals are a good place to start.? How you process B&W film is a highly personal choice, and for me it varies, depending on what film I¡¯m shooting.
I use the ¡°Massive Dev¡± app on my iOS device (still using my iPod Touch, rather than my iPhone) it handles adjusting times for temperature very nicely.
You might also look around, and see if you can find a cheaper solution for processing¡. Then again, after a quick look, depending on how you¡¯re having them do the scanning, and if you¡¯re getting prints or not, that might not be so crazy. ? I knew prices had gone up quite a bit since 2019, but hadn¡¯t really looked into how bad. :-(
Zane
On Apr 5, 2023, at 7:00 PM, Jon < kd5sfa@...> wrote:
I really need to learn to develop B&W. I¡¯ve been shooting that with my Bronica ETRSi and about to run a test roll through my Rolleicord III. My Rolleicord IV had a roll in it when I got it last year and I have no idea what it is or its ASA rating. Being nothing has been exposed, I may attempt to go into a dark room and rewind it onto the source roll and hopefully the cover end has info on it.
It cost me $40 to have a roll of Ilford developed and scanned that I shot in the Bronica. Either way I have a scanner on the want list likely for next years budget.
Jon On Wed, Apr 5, 2023 at 19:57 Zane Healy < healyzh@...> wrote: Hi Hugh, In this case, I¡¯m not convinced that you need any sort of B&W plugin.? I scan a *LOT* of B&W Negatives, since up until Covid hit, I was shooting a lot of B&W film.? These days I¡¯m so busy with work, that I don¡¯t really have time for working with film. :-(
If I tweak the photo, after scanning, I just use the basic sliders in Lightroom.
Zane
Zane, I¡¯m just getting into this after a 3 yr break. I¡¯m just looking to get good images from old negs.
I¡¯m aiming for striking images rather than journalistic ones.? Probably lots of deep blacks and bright whites as that is what I remember the stage to often look like.
On Apr 3, 2023, at 1:27 PM, Zane Healy < healyzh@...> wrote:
Okay, now you have my interest.? What are you trying to achieve?? I¡¯m not in the habit of running B&W Negatives through B&W plugins.? Having said that, I have experimented a little using Silver Efex 2 with negatives, this has been to have images that feel consistent with my digital photos for my ¡°Coastal Defense Forts¡± project.? I¡¯ve found the results to be surprisingly good.? Part of the reason for this testing is that I want to get a couple images in the future that will most likely be shot on either 8x10 or 11x14 film, and then drum scanned, as the goal is to print them crazy huge.
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Re: A small selection of photo's
This was at a pro level camera store. The scanning cost more than the developing but I wasn¡¯t going to buy prints. I don¡¯t know what scanner they have but it was not a flatbed scanner. I have the Epson ?v600 or v800 in mind for future purchase.? I have a friend that when she is taking classes at a local community college has access to the photo lab there and can do my developing for me until such time that I get the stuff together to do my own.
Jon
On Thu, Apr 6, 2023 at 12:02 Zane Healy < healyzh@...> wrote: When we first got this house, I had a closet setup so that I could close myself in it, and load film into a daylight tank. ?
It looks like your needs for processing film are pretty basic, so I¡¯d recommend a 2-reel Paterson daylight tank.? That will let you do 2 rolls of 35mm or 1 roll of 120.? I¡¯ve used mine since the late-80¡¯s, and originally bought it to process slide film in port while I was onboard a Frigate (I was shooting slides with 3D cameras, and would take the print film from my Nikon FM2 to the 1-hour place at the mall).? The Ilford chemicals are a good place to start.? How you process B&W film is a highly personal choice, and for me it varies, depending on what film I¡¯m shooting.
I use the ¡°Massive Dev¡± app on my iOS device (still using my iPod Touch, rather than my iPhone) it handles adjusting times for temperature very nicely.
You might also look around, and see if you can find a cheaper solution for processing¡. Then again, after a quick look, depending on how you¡¯re having them do the scanning, and if you¡¯re getting prints or not, that might not be so crazy. ? I knew prices had gone up quite a bit since 2019, but hadn¡¯t really looked into how bad. :-(
Zane
On Apr 5, 2023, at 7:00 PM, Jon < kd5sfa@...> wrote:
I really need to learn to develop B&W. I¡¯ve been shooting that with my Bronica ETRSi and about to run a test roll through my Rolleicord III. My Rolleicord IV had a roll in it when I got it last year and I have no idea what it is or its ASA rating. Being nothing has been exposed, I may attempt to go into a dark room and rewind it onto the source roll and hopefully the cover end has info on it.
It cost me $40 to have a roll of Ilford developed and scanned that I shot in the Bronica. Either way I have a scanner on the want list likely for next years budget.
Jon On Wed, Apr 5, 2023 at 19:57 Zane Healy < healyzh@...> wrote: Hi Hugh, In this case, I¡¯m not convinced that you need any sort of B&W plugin.? I scan a *LOT* of B&W Negatives, since up until Covid hit, I was shooting a lot of B&W film.? These days I¡¯m so busy with work, that I don¡¯t really have time for working with film. :-(
If I tweak the photo, after scanning, I just use the basic sliders in Lightroom.
Zane
Zane, I¡¯m just getting into this after a 3 yr break. I¡¯m just looking to get good images from old negs.
I¡¯m aiming for striking images rather than journalistic ones.? Probably lots of deep blacks and bright whites as that is what I remember the stage to often look like.
On Apr 3, 2023, at 1:27 PM, Zane Healy < healyzh@...> wrote:
Okay, now you have my interest.? What are you trying to achieve?? I¡¯m not in the habit of running B&W Negatives through B&W plugins.? Having said that, I have experimented a little using Silver Efex 2 with negatives, this has been to have images that feel consistent with my digital photos for my ¡°Coastal Defense Forts¡± project.? I¡¯ve found the results to be surprisingly good.? Part of the reason for this testing is that I want to get a couple images in the future that will most likely be shot on either 8x10 or 11x14 film, and then drum scanned, as the goal is to print them crazy huge.
|
Hello, guys, and Happy Passover ( guess it is Passover for you soon). I have used the CamRanger (first version). It is very reliable and allows setting up certain specifications to your own liking for any device using internal Wifi. No cable is needed. No tripping, etc. In my case, I used a laptop to?connect my D810. However, the issue (the word problem is not the right word) is that sending a full RAW file would take up to 30 seconds. Or more. I adjusted the settings and shot RAW with a JPG small. This JPG small (instead of the full RAW) was sent over the Wifi connection to the laptop in around 10-15 seconds. Still to long for my liking that is why I gave up using the CamRanger after a few years.? There is a new version of the CamRanger called version II. It seems to be much faster.? There are other companies out there but I forgot the name.?
Hope this helps. Louis | ? | Louis Weyl
??? ??????? ?????????, ????? ???? ????? | |
|
|
On Thu, Apr 6, 2023 at 4:11?AM Zane Healy < healyzh@...> wrote: Sounds pretty cool!? I¡¯ve wanted to try this, but when it would have been the most use, I didn¡¯t have software that supported it.? I¡¯d love this when doing Macro work.? It makes me wish I had a proper studio to work in.
Zane
> On Apr 5, 2023, at 4:33 PM, Jon <kd5sfa@...> wrote:
>
> I just tried a micro usb to the laptop with the tether option in LR. It was only the USB 2.0 port but it worked. Had to hold the cable just right to maintain? connection at the camera. I am looking at the tetherpro cable with the right angle connector. I may order the cable with the USB-C connector for the laptop side.
>
> It was good to see something work without a lot of configuration settings having to be made.
|
Re: A small selection of photo's
When we first got this house, I had a closet setup so that I could close myself in it, and load film into a daylight tank. ?
It looks like your needs for processing film are pretty basic, so I¡¯d recommend a 2-reel Paterson daylight tank. ?That will let you do 2 rolls of 35mm or 1 roll of 120. ?I¡¯ve used mine since the late-80¡¯s, and originally bought it to process slide film in port while I was onboard a Frigate (I was shooting slides with 3D cameras, and would take the print film from my Nikon FM2 to the 1-hour place at the mall). ?The Ilford chemicals are a good place to start. ?How you process B&W film is a highly personal choice, and for me it varies, depending on what film I¡¯m shooting.
I use the ¡°Massive Dev¡± app on my iOS device (still using my iPod Touch, rather than my iPhone) it handles adjusting times for temperature very nicely.
You might also look around, and see if you can find a cheaper solution for processing¡. Then again, after a quick look, depending on how you¡¯re having them do the scanning, and if you¡¯re getting prints or not, that might not be so crazy. ? I knew prices had gone up quite a bit since 2019, but hadn¡¯t really looked into how bad. :-(
Zane
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On Apr 5, 2023, at 7:00 PM, Jon <kd5sfa@...> wrote:
I really need to learn to develop B&W. I¡¯ve been shooting that with my Bronica ETRSi and about to run a test roll through my Rolleicord III. My Rolleicord IV had a roll in it when I got it last year and I have no idea what it is or its ASA rating. Being nothing has been exposed, I may attempt to go into a dark room and rewind it onto the source roll and hopefully the cover end has info on it.
It cost me $40 to have a roll of Ilford developed and scanned that I shot in the Bronica. Either way I have a scanner on the want list likely for next years budget.
Jon On Wed, Apr 5, 2023 at 19:57 Zane Healy < healyzh@...> wrote: Hi Hugh, In this case, I¡¯m not convinced that you need any sort of B&W plugin.? I scan a *LOT* of B&W Negatives, since up until Covid hit, I was shooting a lot of B&W film.? These days I¡¯m so busy with work, that I don¡¯t really have time for working with film. :-(
If I tweak the photo, after scanning, I just use the basic sliders in Lightroom.
Zane
Zane, I¡¯m just getting into this after a 3 yr break. I¡¯m just looking to get good images from old negs.
I¡¯m aiming for striking images rather than journalistic ones.? Probably lots of deep blacks and bright whites as that is what I remember the stage to often look like.
On Apr 3, 2023, at 1:27 PM, Zane Healy < healyzh@...> wrote:
Okay, now you have my interest.? What are you trying to achieve?? I¡¯m not in the habit of running B&W Negatives through B&W plugins.? Having said that, I have experimented a little using Silver Efex 2 with negatives, this has been to have images that feel consistent with my digital photos for my ¡°Coastal Defense Forts¡± project.? I¡¯ve found the results to be surprisingly good.? Part of the reason for this testing is that I want to get a couple images in the future that will most likely be shot on either 8x10 or 11x14 film, and then drum scanned, as the goal is to print them crazy huge.
|
Re: Tripods and/or attachments for Macro work
I¡¯m pretty sure it¡¯s old lenses only.
Thanks for the Kodak Portra tip. I¡¯ll pick up a few rolls today. I also picked up up a Miranda F at the auction, which was the first camera I bought in high school. And I should test my Nikon and Leica as they have been unused for a while.
Thanks
hugh
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On Apr 5, 2023, at 9:08 PM, Zane Healy <healyzh@...> wrote:
That¡¯s one Nikon I¡¯m not familiar with at all, am I correct that it only works with Pre-AI lenses? Hopefully the light seals are good, if not, I think Walt might have experience redoing seals on a camera. I prefer to run a short roll of film through a new camera, and I opt for B&W always, as I process that myself. If the shutter speeds are questionable, Kodak Portra will probably be the most forgiving.
Zane
On Apr 5, 2023, at 8:32 AM, Hugh via groups.io <hcrymble@...> wrote:
I just picked up a Nikkormat FT at an auction for $30. ($22 US). Have to see how well it works.
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Re: A small selection of photo's
I really need to learn to develop B&W. I¡¯ve been shooting that with my Bronica ETRSi and about to run a test roll through my Rolleicord III. My Rolleicord IV had a roll in it when I got it last year and I have no idea what it is or its ASA rating. Being nothing has been exposed, I may attempt to go into a dark room and rewind it onto the source roll and hopefully the cover end has info on it.
It cost me $40 to have a roll of Ilford developed and scanned that I shot in the Bronica. Either way I have a scanner on the want list likely for next years budget.
Jon
On Wed, Apr 5, 2023 at 19:57 Zane Healy < healyzh@...> wrote: Hi Hugh, In this case, I¡¯m not convinced that you need any sort of B&W plugin.? I scan a *LOT* of B&W Negatives, since up until Covid hit, I was shooting a lot of B&W film.? These days I¡¯m so busy with work, that I don¡¯t really have time for working with film. :-(
If I tweak the photo, after scanning, I just use the basic sliders in Lightroom.
Zane
Zane, I¡¯m just getting into this after a 3 yr break. I¡¯m just looking to get good images from old negs.
I¡¯m aiming for striking images rather than journalistic ones.? Probably lots of deep blacks and bright whites as that is what I remember the stage to often look like.
On Apr 3, 2023, at 1:27 PM, Zane Healy < healyzh@...> wrote:
Okay, now you have my interest.? What are you trying to achieve?? I¡¯m not in the habit of running B&W Negatives through B&W plugins.? Having said that, I have experimented a little using Silver Efex 2 with negatives, this has been to have images that feel consistent with my digital photos for my ¡°Coastal Defense Forts¡± project.? I¡¯ve found the results to be surprisingly good.? Part of the reason for this testing is that I want to get a couple images in the future that will most likely be shot on either 8x10 or 11x14 film, and then drum scanned, as the goal is to print them crazy huge.
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Sounds pretty cool! I¡¯ve wanted to try this, but when it would have been the most use, I didn¡¯t have software that supported it. I¡¯d love this when doing Macro work. It makes me wish I had a proper studio to work in.
Zane
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On Apr 5, 2023, at 4:33 PM, Jon <kd5sfa@...> wrote:
I just tried a micro usb to the laptop with the tether option in LR. It was only the USB 2.0 port but it worked. Had to hold the cable just right to maintain connection at the camera. I am looking at the tetherpro cable with the right angle connector. I may order the cable with the USB-C connector for the laptop side.
It was good to see something work without a lot of configuration settings having to be made.
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Re: Tripods and/or attachments for Macro work
That¡¯s one Nikon I¡¯m not familiar with at all, am I correct that it only works with Pre-AI lenses? Hopefully the light seals are good, if not, I think Walt might have experience redoing seals on a camera. I prefer to run a short roll of film through a new camera, and I opt for B&W always, as I process that myself. If the shutter speeds are questionable, Kodak Portra will probably be the most forgiving.
Zane
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On Apr 5, 2023, at 8:32 AM, Hugh via groups.io <hcrymble@...> wrote:
I just picked up a Nikkormat FT at an auction for $30. ($22 US). Have to see how well it works.
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Re: A small selection of photo's
Hi Hugh, In this case, I¡¯m not convinced that you need any sort of B&W plugin. ?I scan a *LOT* of B&W Negatives, since up until Covid hit, I was shooting a lot of B&W film. ?These days I¡¯m so busy with work, that I don¡¯t really have time for working with film. :-(
If I tweak the photo, after scanning, I just use the basic sliders in Lightroom.
Zane
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On Apr 5, 2023, at 8:30 AM, Hugh via groups.io <hcrymble@...> wrote:
Zane, I¡¯m just getting into this after a 3 yr break. I¡¯m just looking to get good images from old negs.
I¡¯m aiming for striking images rather than journalistic ones. ?Probably lots of deep blacks and bright whites as that is what I remember the stage to often look like.
On Apr 3, 2023, at 1:27 PM, Zane Healy < healyzh@...> wrote:
Okay, now you have my interest. ?What are you trying to achieve? ?I¡¯m not in the habit of running B&W Negatives through B&W plugins. ?Having said that, I have experimented a little using Silver Efex 2 with negatives, this has been to have images that feel consistent with my digital photos for my ¡°Coastal Defense Forts¡± project. ?I¡¯ve found the results to be surprisingly good. ?Part of the reason for this testing is that I want to get a couple images in the future that will most likely be shot on either 8x10 or 11x14 film, and then drum scanned, as the goal is to print them crazy huge.
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Bob Morse
Walt
