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Re: Macro lenses


 

I've been trying to use that trick. But even running f/22 @300mm? iso 1000 with the extension rings at a distance about a foot, the depth of dof is so shallow that a minor breeze moves things out of focus. Dof seems to be around a 1/8 - 1/4 of an inch at best.?

For distance shots with a good telephoto you have additional dof to work with. Close up you lose that advantage.?

On Wed, Jun 7, 2023, 18:03 Guy S. <guy.stalnaker@...> wrote:

Jon,

I'd think, unless you have professional grade gear, moving subjects?won't allow time for autofocus to do it's thing, My Nikon ZFc has really good autofocus, but even that with my Sigma 150-600 zoom is not fast enough for moving birds. You're likely getting the same results with your moving bees.

Years ago I did some photography as a CART IndyCar race here in Wisconsin and what I write below is based on a "trick" that a professional photographer taught me (moving cars, etc.): set up the gear to photograph?a spot on the track and go at it when the cars came by. I'm thinking you may can adjust that approach for what you want to do.

With some stationary object, shift the body to Manual mode, set up your body and lens for a narrow aperture (for good depth-of-field focus) and very fast shutterspeed. I know that's not intuitive, because closing the aperture while also increasing the shutterspeed significantly affects the light gathering potential, but?you should be able modify the ISO to get more sensitivity and doing this outside in bright light really helps (I've actually overexposed images trying this for bird photography LOL).

This way you can set your preferred focus range?with an aperture of F/16 (e.g., to get one foot depth of field), shutterspeed (e.g., 1/2000/sec to freeze the bee motion), and ISO (e.g, 800 or 1600, even in sunlight) in advance,?knowing that any bee in that one-foot distance, even if it's moving, should be in focus (because of the aperture) and sharp (because of the shutterspeed).

You can experiment with moving YOURSELF forward and backward as the bees move to shift that (e.g.) one foot area. You can probably move yourself faster than the camera can move things, so don't let the camera change things.

Regards.

On 6/7/23 17:15, Jon wrote:
I¡¯ve been playing around with macro a bit and have been on a bee binge lately.
There is a trumpet vine growing wild along my neighbors fence line that I don¡¯t have a problem with since it is an attractant for bees and hummingbirds.

The weeks I am oncall for work I am stuck at home and use it as part of my backyard safari project.?

I do have a Tamron 28-300mm ¡®macro¡¯ lens that is fine for static subjects with my D300s but does not cut it when it comes to autofocus on fast moving bees. It is just too slow.

I¡¯ve been playing with my Nikon 28-300mm AF-S VR lens which has a pretty quick AF motor and using extension rings for a closer working distance. It can be frustrating at times when it decides to hunt. With that said when it works it does a pretty?good job. Today I tried using manual focus on some bees. I had one that was being cooperative when I had the 28mm extension ring on it. The challenge I had was the focus ring is small and not the smoothest.

I¡¯ve been looking for a 300mm macro lens or at least closet to 200mm that has a fast AF and a decently smooth wider focus ring.?

Any thoughts or experience on such a beast if it exists?

It would be nice to go from bees to hummingbirds which I can¡¯t do with the extension rings as you lose a lot of your focus range.

Trying to capture bees in flight is my goal especially if they are laden with a ton of pollen.

I believe Nikon made a 300mm macro f/4 lens. If the ones I was looking at on the used market were that, they were still pricey.

I do need to upload some of what I have been doing on flicker and re-organize that.

Thanks for your input.

Jon
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