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I’d suggest stainless cable, though I would probably try dyneema myself, because I can’t do anything the normal, easy way. You’d have to be careful about dyneema RE chafing at the ends where it attached, use nice smooth ss shackles to cow hitch the splices to. Do not tie knots in dyneema for critical applications, use end splices. Eye splices in dyneema are surprisingly easy and once you have done a few, you will be about 40% saltier.

I have a similar issue with the trunk/sole connection on my 16 Newport. I don't believe there is any wood material between the trunk/sole joint and hull. Is that correct? There was rotten wood screwed to the sole around the sides of the trunk and some extending up to the pivot bolt. I plan on cleaning the sole/trunk joint area and strengthening with glass tape and epoxy. I'm not looking forward to removing the centerboard swing keel as it appears to be quite heavy (250#? steel or cast iron?). Seems like overkill for such a small boat. I have yet to sail it but expect it to be quite stiff with such ballast. Can you provide photos of the finished sole/trunk area, please? I was surprised when I accessed the bilge area behind the starboard partition (not a real structural bulkhead) to find foam flotation installed in that fashion. I wonder if there is any on the port side under the deck.
Thank you.
John

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I have had this problem with other boats and thee are some things to look for. Anything that’s bolted on can leak, so shrouds, cleats, even upper rudder fudge on (lower will leak salt), under the mast, any instruments mounted in the cockpit wall.?

I have had this same exact issue! I can’t seem to locate where the water is coming. I’m hoping someone in this community has had experience fixing this issue. Cheers!

I just bailed and sucked (shop-vac!) about 100 litres of water from my N16's cabin.? It seems to have come from the rain, not the sea.? Where are common places for deck leaks?? Has anyone installed a pluggable drain through the transom on their N16?? Is there a plank of wood in the transom, and if so what kind and how thick?
Halden

An update:
I returned the 55-pound thrust motor to Amazon and got a refund.? But I bought the 86-pound thrust motor directly from Vevor, which turned out to be a mistake.? After many exchanges with me sending them photos and videos which they demanded as a stall and wear-out-the-customer tactic, the seller probably realized that I was about to raise a dispute via the credit card company. They offered a refund of a small fraction of the purchase price and I demanded 50%.? To my surprise, they agreed.? To my further surprise, it arrived.?
Then, I opened the motor to attempt repair.? I reversed the wiring on the potentiometer to correct the direction problem.? I found that the plastic piece that couples the tiller end to the potentiometer is molded so that the potentiometer is off-center when the tiller is at its detent center position.? By adding a fixed resistor between the potentiometer's center and one of its end terminals, I solved the problem of the motor turning slowly when it's supposed to be off.
This motor also has at least one design flaw too.? It's hard to operate the lever that releases the latch when it's tilted up and out of the water.? I'm thinking of bolting an extension to the lever to help with that.
I'm guessing that Vevor bought a lot of motors that were known to be defective or had a high defect rate at a low price from some manufacturer in China.? I also noticed that the same motor is available at Walmart under a different brand - BENTISM for USD$140..? Maybe Walmart uses a different business model.
By operating on 24V, the current required at high power is about half what it would be at 12V.? This means you can use smaller diameter cable and/or have less power loss in the cable.? Neither motor would turn on at all if the applied voltage exceeded about 27.3 V.? To solve this, I apply a small load to my freshly-charged LiFePO4 batteries just before connecting the motor.? The motor itself draws the voltage down below the threshold as soon as it turns on.
So...if you're handy with electronics and don't mind spending some time repairing manufacturing defects, this motor might be good for your N-16.? If not, consider a similar spec motor from a different company.
Halden

If you have trouble with the bottom moving away from the mast in higher winds, you can use a strop around the mast to both pull down and towards the mast. I can’t find a picture of it, but we used to just use a loop that would go from the boom up through the eye in the tack, around the mast, through again, and down to the mast again. You can even use that loop luggage tagged around the mast, then down to the boom. The down tension is thus converted to some tension holding the tack close to the mast.

Anton

I remedied my error: unstitched the bolt rope from the bottom and stitched it in at the top using dental floss.? It hoists better now. and looks great.? The bolt rope now ends about 16 inches from the bottom of the tack.? So far, this hasn't been a problem; there's only a small amount of sail slipping out of the mast's groove at the bottom.? Maybe that'll be different if I get stronger wind.
Today, N16 sailed in salt water for the first time in the current millennium.? I trained a new helmsman whose little brother managed the jibsheet.
Halden

The motor that claimed 55 pounds thrust came with 2 manufacturing flaws.? The grommet holding the power cable in the housing was loose due to an untightened nut inside.? Also, the tiller control was wired backwards.? Turning it clockwise made the motor go backwards.? For some odd reason, I then ordered the 86 pound thrust version.? The price was low and the previous motor's flaws were repairable by me.? The higher power version has a longer shaft,? a 2nd propeller., and seems to have the same motor;?? Max current is 45 A instead of 30 A at 24 V.? It also has reverse wiring on the tiller control and one has to turn said tiller slightly off-centre to make it stop.? One of the propellers doesn't fit the motor shaft.? My attempts to get customer support from the vendor have been infuriating and without any progress.? I suppose that's whey they were inexpensive.
The motor, however, does work.? I forgot to bring my spring scale to the lake this time, so I couldn't verify the thrust.? My crew member with a GPS app on a smartphone measured 4 km/h while motoring with 10A, no wind, and sails hoisted.? At full tilt, 35A, we reached 6 km/h (3.2 knots).?
For lake sailing this seems sufficient.? So, I plan to find a place to mount the batteries under the cockpit seats and install a power connector on the seat near the stern.
I also thought of attaching a leash to the motor in case I slip and drop it during install or removal.? But I've never seen other boats with a leash on their outboard.? Why?
Cheers,
Halden

After resetting the bolt rope in my Neptune 16's mainsail, I thought I'd try to improve its aesthetics.? The big rust stains, probably from sitting in a damp place under some rusty chain for years seemed like likely victims.? I sprinkled a bit of Whink (tm) (hydrofluoric acid and denatonium benzoate) which didn't seem to have any effect.? While waiting, I brushed a bit on the toilet bowl's rust stain which came off in a few seconds.? With low expectations, I let it sit on the sail for a while and worked on something else.? A half hour later, it seemed to have cleared up a bit.? 3 hours later, the stains were almost fully gone!? I carefully rinsed the sail in the bathtub and hung it to dry.? HF is really nasty stuff, so if you try this, read the instructions on the bottle and be careful!
Halden

I acquired an off brand 70-80lb thrust long shank trolling motor with my boat, it works well but I haven't used it in winds over 10 knots