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But where is the capsule connected?

I don't know of an easy way of drawing a schematic on my phone but I did take a picture of the breadboard when I was fiddling at home earlier. RGB corresponds to 123 The DMM is hooked up to the black

Can you draw a schematic? Your description is hard to figure. Where are you measuring teh voltage?

A few years back I bought some EM172s to use with my Zoom H5. More recently I've been lucky enough to pick up a lightly used MixPre6ii. I've been using the 172s with no problems, but thought I would

Hi Pmfalcman Thanks for your tips! Next time I will use a jumper made of thin, flexible stranded wire between the main cable and the capsule and try a cable tie as strain relief for the thick mic

Heinz. Keep the main (thick) wire being tight in the hole. Make a simple, yet effective strain relief - a tightly pulled zip tie +/- one centimeter from the end of the wire. Solder thin, flexible

I actually like the sturdy microphone cable that I use in combination with the bamboo root housing. To me it seems to be more stable than adding a thinner wire to the mix. I don't have much space in

Hi Andrzej! The flash like housing looks really interesting. Even with strain relief for the microphone cable. Just as it should be. Many thanks for the information about Gallium also! Never heard of

Hi Alex Welcome to the group and thank you for your very first post! I'm still practicing and grateful for any advice. Thank you for your detailed soldering tips, but I think the problem here wasn't

Hi, Sorry, I haven't been following this thread closely. I have two suggestions. 1. I would use short lengths of thin wires soldered directly to the capsule, they can be extended with a thicker cable.

Welcome, Alex. I've had great luck with thin wire. I've made a few PiP mic pairs using the wires from cheap walkman-style headphones. I've also used RG 174 coax, and miniature shielded twisted pair

Hi Heinz, A couple soldering tips: I would suggest for future soldering experiments to tin the wires before soldering. Also add a very small glob of solder to the pad, especially if they are not

Hi Kennjava & Johan It's a pity, but good to know! I keep the capsule as a kind of measuring device (in my wallet :) or will open it to have a look at the tiny FET. That way it may still serve a good

Thank you, I got it working

Hello Heinz, There's no way to successfully reattach the pads. And because the FETs are now surface-mount, there are no leads poking through that can be soldered to. So, for practical purposes, that

Dear Heinz, if the pads came off during soldering, probably the electret capsule has got to much heat as well. This can alter the performance. While I wouldn't say I like to throw away things that can

What you've downloaded is not an .scad file. It has an html header! Am Fr., 8. M?rz 2024 um 22:06 Uhr schrieb francois via groups.io <fxblaignan@...>:

Thanks for your answers! I thought maybe someone knows a magic micbuilder trick to reattach the pads. Today I tried to clean the solder masks. With moderate success. I haven't tried soldering a thin

Take a look at a new capsule. The + is connected nowhere and goes through the pcb, so it is impossible to connect the solder pad back if it is torn off. - can be connected back. simply use the case or

Although soldering wasn't a problem, using thin wires really makes sense to me. I'm just wondering if there is a way to reattach the pads or fix the problem in some other way. I don't want to just