Hi Tim,
A couple of link corrections
For whatever reason John,? the part number got clipped off the links for these two.
?
? ?5905K29??? ??? Needle-Roller Bearing, Open, for 1-1/4" Shaft Diameter
?
? 94065K32??? Belleville Disc Springs for Ball Bearing Trade No. R4, 0.406" ID, Packs of 10
?
?
There are long discussions about reduction of PE and improvements in tracking in the archives.
?
From what you describe is happening regarding guiding, I doubt that the bearings you're asking about are at the root of it.
?
I'd be most suspicious of binding in worm/ring gear interface. If could be just a needed slight adjustment of worm pressure to account for a high spot that's still within ring gear tolerances, a contaminant on the ring gear or similar lubrication issue.? Guide pulses are a much smaller force than average RA tracking forces, so RA tracking could still push through an area that's binding but the guide pulses become ineffective.
?
There are a few ways to test this out, but I'd suggest to back off the worm slightly and see if the problem goes away. A lot of guiding issues are caused by too much worm pressure.
Be mindful too that the relationship beteen RA position and ring gear position shifts if the clutch is released or slips. This is why a ring/worm binding issue may not be consistent with RA angle.
?
Seeing uneven and wavy wear on the large thrust washers is not what I'd expect.
I agree with John, with that much wear they should be replaced.? The important question though is WHY you're getting this much wear and why it's uneven. An Unbalanced load would tend to pinch the outer edge of the bearing. Heavy over tightening of the clutch would pinch the inner edge. Contamination, incorrect lubrication, or uneven pressure causing a pinched bearing can cause premature wear. If the bearing is pinched it will push lubrication out of the bearing and it can end up contaminating the clutch, causing futher tendency to over tighten in a viscous cycle.
Do you have a wavy washer in your clutch assembly? That, along with too much pressure could explain why the wear is both wavy and uneven.?
?
The clutch on the G11 is designed to slip under pressure, not lock up tight.? If you are applying a lot of pressure because the clutch is slipping the most likely reason is load balance or clutch plate contamination. Worn plastic clutch plates can be roughend with sandpaper, but be sure to clean them to remove any trace of abrasive or plastic dust. IME though it's probably lubricant that's migrated into the clutch.?
With excessive pressure, I think Chip has mentioned in past threads there is risk of warping as well, so at this point surface flatness is something to check while you've got things apart. If?
?
If you prefer a higher slip resistance clutch, I suggest Michael Herman's high friction replacement clutch disks.
?
Since you are cleaning and relubricating,? be aware it is very easy it over lubricate the mount.?
Being fully machined, tolerances are very tight. It's only necessary to just coat the bearings. Just enough is all you want.? Clean away all traces of old lubricants, make sure all solvents dry and there is no residue. Check the bearings dry to be sure they're turning freely and there is no damage before lubrication and assembly. It isn't difficult, but I found it is very easy to get lubricant where it doesn't belong unless you're very very careful what you touch once lubricant gets involved.
?
The Jet-lube Artic and Jet-lube MP-50 are aircraft spec lubricants. The big advantage in the Jet-lube Artic is the extended temperature range. If you are in an area where you have very cold temperatures or wide extremes,? stick with it. I've had good success with Superlube as have others,? but I'm in a temperate area. YMMV
?
The exception is lubrication for the worm/ring gear interface. This spot is sensitive to lubrication for tracking/guiding performance. I'd take John up on his offer for MP-50. There are a couple of alternatives that you'll find in the discussion threads, such as a brake caliper high temp grease that Michael Herman suggests, but none are? inexpensive, and you'll pay for more than you'll ever use.??
?
For full disassembly of the motor drive train you'll want an Allen hex long driver set in SAE English 64ths. I'm not sure about the tucked motors,? but with the untucked ones there is one tight access spot where having a ball end rather than a straight end driver is really called for. I manage somehow but it isn't fun.?
?
Hope this long reply helps and you figure out why you're getting this wear.??
Chip Louie
Paul Kanevsky