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Declination "Motor Stalled" warning on G11/G-1
Last time I used my Losmandy G11/Gemini-1, it kept giving "Motor Stalled" message when starting go-to alignment. I came to believe the problem was with the Dec motor/gear train.?
So yesterday during daylight hours, I had an opportunity to service the declination worm-gear set. I was able to tip the worm away from the worm-gear (ring-gear) without disconnecting from the drive motor. This allowed for cleaning the ring-gear of any debris that might be causing the motor to stall. An old toothbrush was used to clean each gear tooth and more uniformly distribute the lubricating grease. I see the need for a more thorough cleaning, to remove old grease and apply fresh lube. But for now I have done a quick service. ? I used the opportunity to set the gear clearance for minimum free-play and backlash. Even though I could move the worm by hand with no resistance, upon tuning on the Losmandy G-11 electronics, I still got a "motor-stalled" warning. So I restarted and bypassed go-to alignment. Then selecting the "Sidereal" drive rate, I was able to use the hand controller to move both RA and Dec without motor stall error. Then restarting the electronics allowed for normal go-to alignment, without motor-stall errors. This led me to believe the problem was not mechanical - that is detritus where the gears meshed causing the stall. It appeared the problem was electrical or software. Now I'm hoping the mount will function properly under nighttime conditions. |
Russ, A few things can cause this behavior. First of all, check the motor cable both ends for any corrosion of the 6 pins at each end.? I try to polish those connection pins up. Likewise the female pin contacts inside the connectors could be oxidized.? You might be able to put a thin round (rat-tail) file in and make the contacts better. So try that first. Another thing you can do is to reduce the motor max speed setting.? There is a digital setting for this...try reducing that and see if your stall messages go away. Best of luck, Michael On Sun, Jan 24, 2021 at 1:11 PM Russell Milton <russmilt@...> wrote: Last time I used my Losmandy G11/Gemini-1, it kept giving "Motor Stalled" message when starting go-to alignment. I came to believe the problem was with the Dec motor/gear train.? --
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On 1/24/2021 4:17 PM, Michael Herman wrote:
Russ,I would be VERY careful using a file. Most contacts are plated and using a file on them will very likely remove some plating. This can expose the underlying base metal which will then corrode, making things worse long term. Paul -- Paul Goelz Rochester Hills, MI USA pgoelz@... www.pgoelz.com |
Hi Russ there are usually two culprits of motor stall gear binding (which is sounds like you've investigated) low power - it sounds like this may be worth exploring. As michael said, make sure all your electrical contacts are in good shape. If your power supply is 12v, you can up the voltage to 15-18v or reduce the slew speed. GOTO engages both motors (sidereal is just RA) so it sounds like it's power-related symptoms Brian On Sun, Jan 24, 2021 at 1:11 PM Russell Milton <russmilt@...> wrote: Last time I used my Losmandy G11/Gemini-1, it kept giving "Motor Stalled" message when starting go-to alignment. I came to believe the problem was with the Dec motor/gear train.? --
Brian? Brian Valente portfolio |
i would just use some deoxit on the contacts On Sun, Jan 24, 2021 at 1:29 PM Paul Goelz <pgoelz@...> wrote: On 1/24/2021 4:17 PM, Michael Herman wrote: --
Brian? Brian Valente portfolio |
On 1/24/2021 4:35 PM, Brian Valente wrote:
i would just use some deoxit on the contactsThat has always been my first line of attack on an intermittent contact ;) Started using it back before it was called DeOxIt..... it used to be called Cramolin. Caig Labs makes some miraculous claims for it but I suspect its greatest strength is that it forms a molecular film that prevents further corrosion after some insertion / removal cycles mechanically wipes off whatever is initially preventing contact. Don't forget that intermittent contact can also be caused by things like loose contact forks, broken cable wires or cold or broken solder joints at the circuit board. Paul -- Paul Goelz Rochester Hills, MI USA pgoelz@... www.pgoelz.com |
Thanks, Brian. My supply is a Pyramid 5-amp (7-amp surge), 12-volt supply set for 13.8 volts. I'll look into whether there is a voltage set adjustment internally for a higher input to the mount's electronics. I use power pole connectors between power supply and the Gemini power input cable. But all other connections are via push-in multi-pin connectors. As was mentioned, these can be subject to corrosion or detritus interfering with good, low drop connection.
When I bypassed initial star alignment, I chose sidereal to enable the hand controller to control motors directly. Once I got the Dec motor to respond, the motor-stall error went away on go-to star alignment. Edit: I checked the supply voltage - 13.8V idle, 13.6V under light load. I used a small inverter to power a <10W LED lamp. So upping the output voltage looks to be worthwhile. I don't use it for anything but the Losmandy G11 mount. Russ |
Good suggestion! That sounds safer and more effective than mechanically removing oxidation. I remember having a spray can of Radio Shack contact clean somewhere. If I can find that, I'll give it a try. Otherwise I'll get some DeOxit. It claims to be protective of the contact surfaces. In the moist environment that would be a plus.
Russ |
Russ, Look at the DIN sockets and you will see the round pin hole, and a linear slot too for each pin.? There are metal fingers in the slots.? You can get a thin nail or blade into the slot and push the metal connector fingers inward.? This might help get your cable connector pins better contact. Now to isolate the problem. Swap the RA and DEC cables if you are able.? Does the problem move with the cable?? If yes replace the bad cable. Swap the RA and DEC motor (just connect the cable end to the wrong motor).? Does the problem move with the motor?? If so...consider buying a new motor.?? If the problem stays in the same place (DEC, or RA) regardless of cable or motor, ...seems like the trouble is in the Gemini.? The Gemini-1 has a chip for each axis that reads the optical encoder.? That chip can become damaged.? I have these parts and do these repairs.? So if that ends up being the problem...in the G-1, you can contact me off line to do a repair. What causes the optical encoder chip or a motor to become damaged? Simple: the 12 to 18V pins running the motor are far higher than the 5V max HEDS optical encoder unit in the motor, and far exceeds the 5V max of the optical signal detector chip in the Gemini. If one were to mistakenly rotate the round DIN cable then the pins go into the wrong position and ...kapow.?? This happens to someone every year.?? So...label your cable ends with some type of marker and where they insert, so the orientation is clear, even in the darkness when you set up.? I use white label maker labels cut into an arrow shape.?? Very best of luck, Michael On Sun, Jan 24, 2021, 3:39 PM Russell Milton <russmilt@...> wrote: Good suggestion! That sounds safer and more effective than mechanically removing oxidation. I remember having a spray can of Radio Shack contact clean somewhere. If I can find that, I'll give it a try. Otherwise I'll get some DeOxit. It claims to be protective of the contact surfaces. In the moist environment that would be a plus. |
I think i have that power supply too! it should be fine just try to isolate when and where the problem occurs. From what it sounds like, it's only when you are issuing to goto with both motors running slew speed at the same time? what happens if you press both RA and DEC buttons at slew speed with the hand controller?? On Sun, Jan 24, 2021 at 4:01 PM Russell Milton <russmilt@...> wrote:
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Thanks, Michael. I'll give all of your suggestions some attention. I determined that my power supply doesn't have a voltage adjustment inside the chassis. So 13.8 volts it is. Reducing slew speed and making sure motor, cable and Gemini contacts are as clean as possible will be a good place to focus. I'll look into tweaking the female contacts for best low-drop connection. Right now all is on hold waiting for a clear night. Today was another hosing with the "atmospheric river" of rain.?
If I get too bored I have over 20 Mars videos still to process. These were gathered with the C-11 just after closest approach.? Take care, Russ |
Hi Russ! I'm like you...I keep all those earlier planetary videos.? I found that using WinJuPos helps a lot.? And I hardly ever took the extra time to use it.?? That should make for good indoors entertainment! Stay well and hoping you get to success, Michael ? On Mon, Feb 1, 2021, 5:49 PM Russell Milton <russmilt@...> wrote: Thanks, Michael. I'll give all of your suggestions some attention. I determined that my power supply doesn't have a voltage adjustment inside the chassis. So 13.8 volts it is. Reducing slew speed and making sure motor, cable and Gemini contacts are as clean as possible will be a good place to focus. I'll look into tweaking the female contacts for best low-drop connection. Right now all is on hold waiting for a clear night. Today was another hosing with the "atmospheric river" of rain.? |
Hi Michael,
With Spring to soon be upon us, I would be very surprised if I was able to get to very many of the Mars videos. I've got fruit trees to prune and birdhouses to clean. And garden planting will be starting soon. But if it rains all spring like it did one year when I was in Eureka, CA, I may get to more of them. With Mars having such a slow apparent rotation, even within a 2 minute video I don't know how much use Winjupos would be. But it might be good to become familiar with it for when Jupiter is back in easy viewing. I had a go at using the G-11 last night. Using spray contact cleaner I had cleaned all the motor cable pins and sockets, along with DC and motor sockets on the Gemini chassis. When I last used the mount (without telescope or counterweight shaft), it seemed to work OK. But alas under the stars it kept giving "motor stalled" errors. I flipped both motor cables end for end to see if being flexed differently would fix any breaks that might have happened. Still no go. I was unable to bypass alignment menu and choose sidereal mode with hand paddle moving motors via that means. Before, that was what cleared the "motor stalled" error. In sidereal drive mode, the motors were unresponsive. By sidereal mode, I mean pressing the menu button to toggle between menu items or motor control by the 4 buttons. But after numerous power off/on and alignment re-tries the error persisted. Then I noticed I could hear one motor (not sure which one) would start to move, then stall. So I made another attempt with my ear up against the RA motor to see if that was the problem. And success! - ?it slewed to the first alignment star without stalling. It functioned without error after that, going to several alignment stars without stalling. So I'm thinking the problem is with the RA motor. When my ear was against the motor (to hear if it quickly stalled on startup), perhaps I had given a bit of mechanical pressure. So the investigation continues. Next I will be following your suggestion of tweaking the contacts inside the female sockets to get a more solid connection. Also reducing maximum slew speed may be what is needed. Thanks for your suggestions, Michael! Best Regards, Russ |
Russell, Good work chasing the problem down...sorry you have a problem at all. Some thoughts: The error messages are frustrating because we have no immediate clue what caused the "Stalled" and "Lags" messages in the Gemini DC servo motor system.? ? Competing stepper motor systems do not show these messages....the motor just stops moving it's step.? So at least in the Gemini system there is an indication of a mechanical issue like balance or jammed gears.? Here we get into a realm of possible causes: 1. ... is very good balance needed in both axes? ?I think the answer is yes.? You may have to redo the balance when you put on a dew shield or a camera...these additional weights can affect the DEC balance and RA balance.? ?? Going for perfect balance seems to go contrary to the recommendation that "one side should be weighted vs the other side". Some say East heavy some say west heavy some say well balanced.? What is the best?? How much torque is best (what amount of weight should be in the cord?).? 2. New HiTorque motors vs old motors.? ?I was told a long time ago that the newer motors are better....better torque and more reliable.? The shaft diameter of the new motors is 1/8th inch (3.2mm) vs the old motor (2mm), but that should not really matter.? The newer motors are slightly longer than the old ones.? More poles...stronger magnets?? I have no info on the torque difference, but think you should consider taking the plunge for one as the RA motor.??? I am experimenting with an old motor in my G11T RA at the moment, but I think I'll move back to the hi-torque version for later operation.?? On a Gemini-2 using the weaker old motor, I have to use a lower motor speed setting to prevent "stalled" messages.? I see no such problem with the newer hi torque motor.? I don't get this message using a Gemini-1 and the old motor...only in the Gemini-2 unit.? So there can appear to be some compatibility differences between these Gemini units with respect to the older motors.?? 3. Amps?? I once had an old motor that was using 0.5 amp more than other old motors. So something in that motor's windings was leaking or shorted and using more current and getting no torque from the wasted power. Could your old version motor be bad?? ? The gemini might have some kind of current detector in it sensing the motor is taking too much power and hence "stalled".?? Because gemini current is such a useful diagnostic,? I use a DC power supply (17V out for better motor torque) with an ammeter display.? Higher than normal current draw tells me of unbalance or jammed gears or a motor problem.?? So...things to consider. Cost-wise: You can adjust the balance without any cost.? You can swap the RA and DEC motors for free too. See if those changes help your situation.... before you spend? (~$225) for a new hi-torque motor.? Best of luck, Michael On Thu, Feb 4, 2021, 9:37 PM Russell Milton <russmilt@...> wrote: Hi Michael, |