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Re: How to adjust AR and DEC worms ?
Hi Henk,
Without thermal contraction you could just set the backlash anyplace on the worm gear and for get it. But IRL we shoot in the dark and it is colder at night than daytime. Have you run the worm all the way around the work gear and found the tight spots and marked them? You may not know this but they are always in the same locations around the worm gear. If you take off the worm cover and look at the worm gear when you find a tight spot clean the grease off the worm gear and mark it with a fresh black Sharpie. Once you have gone 360 degrees you will have a visual indication of where you need to go to set backlash in the cold. Take notes and check the mount temperature and use a set of good feeler gauges to find the correct gap for minimal backlash at the tight / high-spots on your worm wheel in the cold. Then once the mount warms up measure the temperature and the gap and make note of it. By doing this a few times you will be able to set your backlash in the daytime. This is not rocket science, just a PITA. If you don't want to do this upgrade your Losmandy mount and get a spring loaded OPW but even an OPW needs to bet set up correctly using the tight spots to set spring preload and the travel limiter before it will work reliably hot or cold but that is pretty easy.?? -- Chip Louie - Chief Daydreamer Imagination Hardware |
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Re: How to adjust AR and DEC worms ?
Hmm happens with both ring gears...both RA and DEC axes? Then...that is a very strange puzzle.? I can't conceive of the cause of such a severe problem on one let alone 2 axes.? Definitely worth asking the factory if you can have an appointment for an evaluation at their office.? There, you can demonstrate the problem on both axes, and see what they say.? You have that possibility as you are an hour drive away.?? Either it is "normal" or it is abnormal and they may know what to do and rapidly replace the faulty component(s).? If "normal" they should be able to advise how to optimize the adjustments.?? Best of luck, Henk, Michael _____' { Just a crazy thought... I suppose you could either send it to me in Sunnyvale, if still out of luck...or if on the way... as I often drive back and forth between Long Beach and Sunnyvale near San Jose...and might make a house call too (face mask on and all) to either see the problem or pick it up and adjust it and test it at my house.? Let me know if you get stuck...} On Fri, Jul 17, 2020, 8:02 PM Henk Aling <haling@...> wrote: I never said I didn't believe you? Chip!? But thermal contraction is not the hardest problem for me, the hardest one is the unevenness of the crown wheel.? A problem that should not exist IMHO (assuming that's what it is).? |
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Re: Stall and Control box
I apologize for the humorous silly typos in the Procedure that I just sent.? It is my fault.?? I did not mean to be confusing.? I have a very humorous Android. It thinks it can spell.? It knows that I don't always proofread my long emails.... The WinJupos program de-rotates the image frames in some magical mathematical way.? I can think of how to do it in my mind, but this is already perfected.? But his to use the program...Andy knows! Stay well, all... Michael On Fri, Jul 17, 2020, 5:58 PM Michael Herman via <mherman346=[email protected]> wrote:
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Re: Stall and Control box
Hi! Briefly the settings for planetary image capture and equipment I used, are: Capture software: FireCapture (2.5 version latest I think). There are several key hidden settings in here. A list: 1. Enable these gadgets: ? ? ADC tool: this looks like 3 round balloons R, G, B in a triangle. This gadget will show you how far apart are the center of gravity of your target or star separated I to Red Green and blue, and you use this critical gadget to adjust the ADC optical corrector (see below). If seeing is terrible the 3 dots jump all over the place, but in pretty good seeing you can see how to adjust the ADC levers.? You must have auto DeBayer but Save as RAW checked off to use the ADC tool (see next section) 2. Set these capture settings: ? ? ?High Speed ! ? ? ?RAM reserved ~ 2000 Mb ! ? ? ?Winjupos file info ? ? ?SER file type output (not AVI default...!) ? ? ?Automatic DeBayer but Save in RAW! ? ? Autoguider ? ? AutoAlign ? ? Reticle (process a crosshairs target to center the object in the camera field. ? ?? 3. Exposure duration:.? ? ? ? ?Set for 180 seconds.? On my highest speed this gives files that are each 14 Gb.? Like 44,500 frames about 640 x 480.? So have plenty of HD space available! 4. Autoguider.? Fire capture can autoguide if your Gemini is connected through Ascom Gemini.net.? Try and get that to work.? You may have to use the checkboxes for reverse RA or reverse DEC.? Play with it to see what works.?? Camera: ZWI ASI224 MC cost today: about $249 from Agena Astro (also add on eBay). Key is that it is USB3.0 and you must use a USB3.0 input laptop port. Look for the blue colored center plastic tab to identify the USB3 (blue) from USB2 (black).? I use a Plugable (nutty spelling but that's the brand) USB3 7port hub at the mount to plug in my ASI camera, USB to serial port for the Gemini1 RS232 port.?? You should rotate the camera (not the ADC) so the equatorial bands on Jupiter, and rings on Saturn, are horizontal. ( At least...that's what I was told by others...) I inspect the camera sensor and the cover glass for dust/fibers etc. If I see anything with a big (head type) binocular magnifier, then of take the camera from off and clean the image sensor and/or the cover glass with a microfiber and (solution of 15% alcohol/85% DI water/ drop of clear dishwasher soap) optics cleaning solution.? Also look at the camera image to look for severe dust circles or black dirt, and clean as you feel necessary. The "ADC" atmospheric dispersion corrector: ZWO makes it.? Not sure of present cost but I think about $250?? ?This is a tricky item to figure out.? Andy told me the secrets to using it which are: 1. To start, place both long silver adjustment levers at the same location angle next to each other, at the symmetric slots position (sounds cryptic but when you see the unit it will make sense) 2. Loosen and rotate the ring that holds the level bubble so the white lockdown thumbscrew is where the long levers are.? This put the levers on the right at 3 o'clock, and the bubble at 12 o'clock on top. 3. Wherever you point to the target, try to keep the bubble at the top in balance. Obviously this changes slowly as the object tracks across the sky. 4. Point your scope to a pretty bright star about the same height elevation as the imaging target (Jupiter, Saturn).?? 5. Bring the target star into focus in Fire capture. 6. Use the ADC tool to show the R, G,? and B circles are separated.? Move the levers,preferably equal movement in opposite equal directions from 3 o'clock position, until the 3 color dots coincide as best as possible.? Now stop and use it... Andy suggests that I need a UVIR 1.25 inch filter to keep out long wavelength IR that can swamp the imager and reduce contrast.? I have to buy one of those... Andy suggests that a 2X or 2.5 X barlow or better Tekevue Powermate can improve my results.? I think most people say about f20 to 30 is a good time of thumb, but on that subject I am not sure.? I got those images at f11 on the C14 which has FL = 3950 mm with no barlow.? I'm using a G11 mount.? I reported earlier that is really loaded to about 120 lbs total weight (scope and counterweights). (My collapsible but heavy duty Losmandy 3 inch tripod legs nearly collapsed due to that amount if weight...I had to really tighten the leg clamps ..) Telescope optics: Here was a surprise to me.? I was aligning the primary mirror on a convenient star, maybe Vega at just after sunset.? That was near zenith East of meridian.? Jupiter rising lower in the South East.? Magnify the image on the video camera center and blow up to see the slightly defocussed? Airy disk. Then adjust the secondary mirror 3 front thumbscrews or allen head screws til centered.?? Then when that was done, I'd move to my target, like Jupiter, and shoot.? And: voila! Blurry images!!!! The key is to use a star nearly the same height elevation as the target (Jupiter) and do the Airy disk adjustment there...at that scope position.? Then there is no mirror flop and you get sharp images. { If you have a refractor ...you are spared that secondary mirror adjustment.? But some big refractors have a 3 bolt front cell alignment!? So even they might need a slight adjustment.? I won't go into that...you can do it with a? Cheshire eyepiece on my 6 inch Meade AR6 doublet, but I can't get any reflections on my 5 inch EON triplet).? } Then...hopefully you set your target name as Jupiter and press the Record button and watch the planet autoguided, recorded in RAW, and your hard drive fill up with...high hopes. Then it's off to Autostakkert3.? Settings are Noise robust: 5 Laplace checked Normalize checked Background checked Put a few big alignment boxes at places on the image where contrast changes dramatically: edges, spots, ring divisions. Then press Analyze. When that is done look at the image window... Put on alignment squares perhaps a few hundred.? I hand add one or two at the moon dots on Jupiter if visible.? I tried Drizzle 1.5x but not very good results.? I used an amazingly high fraction of frames like 50%, of 44,000 frames.?? Check off Sharpen with 0% blended RAW.?? Check off RGB align. Run the stacking and wait til it finishes. Note that at this point my images look blurry and colors are messed up badly and I think the output from AS3 is all just blurry garbage.? Now comes the magic trick called Registax6 Wavelets.?? At this point you have a somewhat blurry discolored TIF 16 bit color image from AS3.? Now boot up Registax6 and drop in or Open up your TIF output file from AS3 (not the sharpened one...the blurry one!)? Choose wavelet type:. Linear Default (not Gaussian, not Dyadic).? There are other options you may wish to try. ( If you do use Gaussian wavlets keep the DeMouse setting about the same as the Sharpen setting. If you make the DeNoise setting like 2X the Sharpen setting you can end up just blurring the image... but...you try it and see what you get!) Slide the top level 1 slider all the way to the right with setting to 0.1. Slide the next slider set to 0.2 to halfway to the right. Next one set to 0.3 set to 25% to the right. ...etc... Season to taste on the sliders.? Less super-sharpness may be more appealing than oversharp,? but this is artwork... On the right side panel see "Color Balance" try pressing Auto a few times to see if coloration improves. Those sliders are very very sensitive.?? There are other adjustments galore, bit those are my basic ones. Then DO ALL button then Save and save as 16 not TIF and maybe 8 bit JPG.?? Take the TIF into Photoshop and try this: Image Size ...increase by 200% to 2x in X and Y.? Use BiCubic Smooth best for enlargements.? Then try more sharpening color adjustments, contrast, etc etc. Now ... You are on your own! There is a very important improvement software package called "WinJupOs" that can "decorate" the images. This gets important for imaging Jupiter because it is rotating so fast...over 180 seconds it's surface really has moved noticeably.? I don't have that yet under my belt.?? The key is to have fun and enjoy yourself. It's a learning journey (Did I say I wasn't going to write all this?!! ) All the best, and stay well! Michael On Fri, Jul 17, 2020, 4:44 PM Astronut <hg2u@...> wrote: Hi Michael,? |
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Long Term Non Use
Well, here in Tucson it¡¯s now Monsoon Season. That means no Astronomy until late September when clear skies return (yes, I never get to see any of the summer delights).? So my G-11 has already been packed away for a month and will likely stay that way for 2-3 more months.? Question is that OK for the motors? Or should I get it out once in a while and just run the motors a little? |
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Re: Resurrecting GM8
Bill...the large bolts that hold down the AZ are 3/8-16, stainless steel. Same with the elevation axis hold down bolts. So? I'd suggest that a few of those 3/6-16 of the right length might work for you.?? Your local big box hardware store like Home Depot might carry a few different stainless steel bolts to try. Best of luck, Michael On Fri, Jul 17, 2020, 1:54 PM Bill Gardner <pictorobservatory@...> wrote:
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Re: How to adjust AR and DEC worms ?
Henk,
The whole purpose for leaving some backlash is so you can have some room at those slightly non-concentric tight positions on the worm gear so the mount will keep turning without lagging. But to ensure that the tight sports actually have enough backlash to avoid the lagging you need to set the backlash on cold equipment. When backlash is set in a warm room backlash disappears in the cold working environment. This is why spring loaded worms are used these days on many better mounts and backlash can be set to the minimum.? If you don't believe me try it, set up your mount up out in the cold for minimal backlash on the tightest positions. Then take the mount indoors and let it warm up and the next day measure the spacing between the blocks so you will know what the proper warm room gap should be. Now check your backlash as measured at the end of the counter weight shaft, it will be huge.? -- Chip Louie - Chief Daydreamer Imagination Hardware |
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Re: How to adjust AR and DEC worms ?
Hi Henk, Nice that you are somewhat close to Losmandy and can get the issue looked at. I wonder if you can swap RA and DEC ring gears and find the better if them for RA at least. I do that swap of worms to put the better one on the RA to minimize PE. Best, Michael On Fri, Jul 17, 2020, 10:17 AM Henk Aling <haling@...> wrote: Hi Chip |
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Re: Stall and Control box
Hi Bob, Actually, I used no Barlow at all that night.? It was shot at f11 with the C14edgeHD. That scope, actually all EdgeHD scopes, have a distinct recommended focal distance. In that C14HD it is 5.75 inches back of the rear lens element, which is located in the back of the rear flange. Bottom line: not much room to work with to get in adaptors, barlows, and no room for a flip mirror.? I did use a ZWO atmospheric dispersion correction lens system.? That's another thing Andy strongly believes helps a lot.? I always before had used the RGB alignment in Registax.? But this gadget corrects the wavelength problem at all wavelengths.?? As I discover more to the image processing puzzle I'll write up a procedure.? The planetary imaging work is very infectious...but not as hazardous as Covid!? It's like Deep Sky but...shorter exposures! All the best, Michael On Fri, Jul 17, 2020, 11:34 AM Robert Runyan <runrob@...> wrote:
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Chip Louie
Michael Herman
Richard Paul