Are you powering the worm directly from the stepper? Does your mount have OPWs or is it a 2-piece worm block mount? If you are doing direct stepper to worm drive and have the 2-piece worm blocks you can use a solid coupler and print or machine your stepper mounts with enough adjustment to install the coupler and then snug the mounting bracket in place to hold that alignment. Personally I would use a belt drive for the reduction which smoothes the steps and gives you much more torque.? ? ?

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Chip Louie Chief Daydreamer Imagination Hardware?

? ?Astropheric Weather Forecast - South Pasadena, CA?

Hi Mearl,

I have a ASI290MM-mini for autoguiding and it seems to be a better autoguider than my old QHY5L-II Mono but I no longer have the old QHY5L-II mono or PHD logs to prove it. So to see if there is a significant difference I bought a new ASI120MM-mini to run them back to back on the same night on both my G11G which I really only use for imaging and a new GM8G which I am waiting for the call to go pickup from Losmandy. I am very interested to see if the new spring loaded OPW equipped GM8G can match the same low? <0.5" arcsecond PE as my G11G (older but fully upgraded to current G11G specs) when loaded with my heaviest 25 pound+ apo for imaging. Better still if the new GM8G will run hands off with the ASIAIR-PRO. The G11G is a fantastic mount but not nearly as handy to transport as the classic - straight drivetrain 2-piece wormblock - GM8 was.?

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Chip Louie Chief Daydreamer Imagination Hardware?

? ?Astropheric Weather Forecast - South Pasadena, CA?

Which proves the point. Set the mount outside and about midnight or so go out and set the backlash on the now cold normalized mount. Be sure to run the servos at least 360 degrees, you will need to reboot a few times to make it past the RA axis limits but this will ensure you have found the tightest point(s) between the worm and worm gear. Yes there can be more than one! If imaging in the cold it is also advantageous to us a pure synthetic based grease like SuperLube to maintain a light soft viscosity but still slippery interface between the working worm and worm gear surfaces. SuperLube has extremely low cold startup torque minimizing any additional environmental issues on PE.?

When you bring the mount back in after setting backlash once the mount has fully warmed up both RA and DEC backlash will feel alarming large, ignore that mental urge to readjust your work! You know the mount backlash has been set correctly already so don't touch it!??

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Chip Louie Chief Daydreamer Imagination Hardware?

? ?Astropheric Weather Forecast - South Pasadena, CA?

Hi Derek!

Long time sir!?

Absodarnedlutely possible to autoguide using an OSC but highly not recommended. The issue is due to the way OSCs work it is possible that the autoguiding will have issues related to the bayer lenses, debayering, related loss in sensitivity etc. As a starting point it's okay but as a regular solution not a good option other than to use while waiting for a new mono autoguider cam to arrive. Also recommend using the smallest photosite size your friend can afford for best results.?

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Chip Louie Chief Daydreamer Imagination Hardware?

? ?Astropheric Weather Forecast - South Pasadena, CA?

Hi Ralf,You should have two SVM-HTS for a new mount with tucked in motors. Just call Tanya and she will get you fixed right up.?

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Chip Louie Chief Daydreamer Imagination Hardware?

? ?Astropheric Weather Forecast - South Pasadena, CA?

Sorry for late reply;? ASI2600MC LOVE IT!!!? Best camera I have ever worked with and obtaining spectacular images.? After processing my images, its like coming right out of any magazine!!? Loving it!!!!

My interest is in Astro Imaging. My logic is if I can image it, then viewing it will come easy, too. Just decide on different telescopes.

My decision making flow was,
1. IF I wanted to venture from Photography into Astrophotography? Other friends were doing various Space Object imaging, and the Internet has an abundance of Space images I could look at without any investments. My conclusion was yes, but they aren't my images. Visual was always, Yeah, that's nice, but never held my interest very well. Although I did have some real moments of wow. Astrophotography to me holds the same challenges as Macro Photography.
2. Was WHAT do I hope to image? Well, The Great Orion Nebula was what sucked me in. I found it one night in my spotting scope. And although it was tiny, it was thrilling. So Nebula holds my interest.
3. HOW was a 4+ month journey into learning the kinds of equipment for my particular interest. I eventually built 3 wish lists tailored to imaging space. The final two were basically the same with different main telescopes. Being somewhat Galilean in my thinking, and knowing my learning curve was going to be a climb, I decide on a smaller refractor of high quality which would basically be a long distance camera lens. And by going the refractor route the telescope could also be used for visual, daytime, and a variety of uses. Which always appeals to me.

So I took the leap of faith into this Black Hole, punched the button on what I had chosen as my "Best List" and sat back nervously hoping it worked out.
Unlike most, I experienced failures immediately with my lower cost choices. I found my learning curve was strewn with boulders to work around, and boulders rolling down at me. But I stuck with it, and worked around the difficulties of crap equipment. All the while, learning and refining technique. When one thing didn't work, I found a way around it. If anything, I have a lot of tenacity, and a stick-to-itiveness. I always win over equipment.
I struggled with my first mount from very nearly the start. I failed electronically in the first few days of ownership. Again at 8 months, and finally a year ago in November for its last time. I went looking at new mounts. I almost jumped for a Skywatcher EQ6R Pro while they were on sale. My CFO said to wait. How long? February she said.
I happened to get curious about an American Made mount, and specifically Losmandy. The more I looked, the more I liked. And I was directed to these groups. I was warmly welcomed, and got my newbie questions answered by very knowledgeable and seasoned Pro's in Losmandy's mounts. But I also did my sleuthing on the web.
One concern I unearthed was Singapore components in the electronics. . Singapore prides itself on not being Chinese. Which in my experience, the Chinese have trouble with their production of electronics components. So much so, the same type of failures are found across their manufacturer's of mounts.

In the end, Losmandy is my choice for the highest quality mount in a price range I found affordable to me. In retrospect, after 10 months with my GM811GHD mount, I'm convinced I have my lifetime mount.
But beyond the quality and reliability I've found, is the ability to configure my mount to work with me. And not by me having to adapt to my mount. ;^)
I've been able to make my mount break down into manageable parts so I can carry the assemblies out and back in, and to assemble them easily. I know of no other mounts that I can say that about. And it is important to me.
Scott Losmandy set out to make his own mount in the 1980's. And he's been perfecting his life's work every since. The latest being some of the most perfect products available. He has his entire line from the GM811G up where you can upgrade without buying an entirely new mount.

Show me any mount that the actual own can do this with by simply arranging the necessary components:







Be Happy!
Incidentally, since I leave my tripod set up and covered, I merely take my assemblies out, and my telescope and balance is still perfect. So I put it together, hook up my wiring loom, and begin my Polar Alignment then modeling. Total is well less than an hour to imaging. And getting faster.
And that is with me being as anal as I want about my PA and Modeling. I love sniper accuracy out of my Losmandy Mount.

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SonnyE


(I suggest viewed in full screen)

It is hard to beat the Losmandy G11G for stability when sitting on a Losmandy Folding HD tripod or my favorite, the Berlebach Planet tripod. You really want a solid tripod, the FHD is heavier but is not as good dampening wise as the Planet is. In this case I might choose the FHD over the Planet.?

But I either case you will want a newer G11G with spring loaded worm assemblies to minimize backlash and the potential for worm bounce. This is a key feature of the G11 and GM8 mounts with the latest updates and for your usage critical. With a longer optic like your 159mm class refractor you want as large a worm gear as possible for maximum stability but unless this is for a permanent pier observatory installation I would not buy a G11T the weight will kill your observing. I have used long modest weight 150-160mm class refractors on the G11 with no issues. I've also put a C14 on my G11 no issues other than hoisting the C14 up into the saddle which needs to be quite high to comfortably observe at zenith. You will have a similar issue with any 1200mm f/l or longer optic.?

Keep us posted on you decision process.?
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Chip Louie Chief Daydreamer Imagination Hardware?

? ?Astropheric Weather Forecast - South Pasadena, CA?

My suggestion is to find a local Losmandy owner and tag along on an observation session and as questions. A local astro club is a good place to start looking for someone who is willing to share their addiction with you.? ??

?michal.gordon@...

Nov 19???

Hi everyone.?

I'm looking in getting into Losmandy. Any thoughts or tips on how to go about it?

?

Thanks,?

Michal

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Chip Louie Chief Daydreamer Imagination Hardware?

? ?Astropheric Weather Forecast - South Pasadena, CA?

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开云体育

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I'm hoping that someone can help with this problem. I'm control a Losmandy G11 using ACSOM driver for Gemini II.

?

The picture shows of the problem. I've researched this but to no avail.

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NINA shows the coordinates for HD15629. The ASCOM control panel shows a slightly different set of coordinates after slewing to the NINA coordinates.?

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The white square is the camera's FOV in NINA. The small greenish circle offset in the white square is the center of where the mount is pointing.

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Why are they not the same??

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Is there an offset that needs to be zeroed out in Gemini II? Its always the same.?

Very wise counsel from W Maxwell. ?The most difficult part about buying new gear is understanding what you own expectations are vs. your budget. ?Once you get that worked out, the rest falls into place. ?Like most here I suspect, I like Losmandy mounts. ?I find them robust, stable and easy to maintain. Scott and his people are really nice. ?Brian V is exceptionally helpful. ?At the moment my mount's capability vastly exceeds my own skill. ?But that calculation is different for each individual. ?

good Luck!

JMD

The following photos have been updated in the JMD G11T album of the [email protected] group.

• alnitak calibrated master stack.jpeg

By: deitzelj

Peter

good point. That’s corrosion and oxide growths the potting stopped this formation. ?The socket needed replacement (bugger of a job but can be done ) . It looks to be moisture causing this occurs ?particularly in areas of high humidity. ? But dew can form anywhere pool and do it’s work?

Seeing more and more PCBs with moisture damage lately ? All older G1 units after 15-20 years service depends where from ?

Wish I knew how to prevent it but it’s like stopping the sun rising! ?

thanks for the input especially the pictures.?

cheers

brendan?

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Brendan

I received the GM811G over the summer and my instructions indicated that the RA and DEC motors ARE IDENTICAL (both are SVM-HTS); mine is the basic system;? and it does not matter which motor goes where . The tricky part was using the supplied Ball Tip Hex Key to attach the motors. .?

Thanks all, yes I did reset the worm gears indoors a while ago, it wasn't too cold outside last night but it was very heavy with condensation, everything was dripping wet, tried it today indoors with the telescope attached and all is ok.

Never had balance make the backlash too small on my GM8 Gemini 1 OR v1.05 mounts. That just means the backlash was set incorrectly for the temperature. Set the backlash on a cold mount and the issues will disappear.?

Experienced imagers with mounts (any make or model) will often set backlash slightly loose and balance the mount to keep the worm and worm gear contact faces on one side on the "up hill" face to minimize oscillating / bouncing from face to face which of course is bad for images.?

For mounts with worms that are preloaded to the worm gear this is not needed as backlash should be minimal on the mount regardless of mount temperature, within reason of course.?

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Chip Louie Chief Daydreamer Imagination Hardware?

? ?Astropheric Weather Forecast - South Pasadena, CA?