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Hope I'm missing something obvious here, but my GM811 guiding has recently seemed impossible to get sorted. I have occasionally been able to achieve 0.5" guiding, but more typically 0.7"-1.2" with

Pier-side, at least its ASCOM definition, is based solely on the mechanical position of the Declination axis. When the scope passes through the celestial pole, the mount's pier-side changes. See

Since a flip is simply a new GOTO after the target passes the meridian, if NINA and the mount do not agree that the target has indeed crossed the meridian the flip will fail. In my case my failed

https://gemini-2.com/limits.html "Another way to think of the "side" of the pier that your scope is on -- it's the *side with the center of the saddle.* That seems obvious, but if your scope is long

Niel, Failure to flip usually results from your mount limits not being set right: please see the following Losmandy

Pier side refers to where the telescope is located referenced to the mount itself, regardless of where it’s pointing. For instance, you can have the scope on the west side of the mount pointing east

Thanks for the reply, Ed I'm in the southern hemisphere and using Gemeni 1 - not that either of those factors make an iota of difference to what pier side means.. [email protected]> wrote:

I think of it as where the telescope is pointing. So in the northern hemisphere, standing behind the mount, west is pointing left and east is pointing right. No expert here, but I believe that is the

Hi All I know this is not a Losmandy specific question but since I'm STILL struggling with getting automated pier flips to work with my Losmandy G11 and N.I.N.A, I figured this would be a good place

Well, I've had it.? I'm just going to send the whole thing to Losmandy and see if they can figure it out.? My eq6-r is currently guiding at 0.19" and the g11 is doing this.

The 12" extension is much more responsible if the issue comes for these add-ons.? Because the 12 inches of extension increases the inertia the pier must dampen much more that the slight increase from

Hey Thomas, I've just been following the thread silently as I'm at just as much of a loss as anyone else regarding a definitive source, but I did have a thought: Your very tight clutch technique may

Thanks Paul. I decided to remove the RA extension. We'll see what happens. Tom

Can't give you a definitive advice, Tom, since none of us know for sure what's going on. If you can test with an non-over tightened clutch, first, and then, if that doesn't help, try removing the RA

Hello Everyone, Tonight might be a clear night so I thought I would set up the scope.? I read in another thread that tightening the clutches excessively could cause jerky movements.? I may have

Tim, If you are tightening down the clutches because you have slippage, it sounds like you have oily discs as was mentioned. But instead of a wrench you may wish to invest in the Losmandy clutch

On Tue, Feb 25, 2025 at 03:41 PM, <tshelley@...> wrote: > > Paul: The drive noise is what you'd hear if you touched the pointed end of > a phillips screwdriver to a portion of the worm gear

Paul: The drive noise is what you'd hear if you touched the pointed end of a phillips screwdriver to a portion of the worm gear housing and the other end to your ear. I use the mounting bolts to avoid

Hi Tim, A couple of link corrections For whatever reason John,? the part number got clipped off the links for these two. 5905K29??? ??? Needle-Roller Bearing, Open, for 1-1/4" Shaft

Tim, drive noises during guiding? What does it sound like? The guiding behavior looks like backlash, possibly a poorly adjusted spring-loaded worm. Do you have any recent PHD2 guide logs? The ones