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The sound in the video sounds a bit "plastic-y" instead of metallic which leads me to think it could be the gearbox. Hard to tell with the audio. Swapping motors might be informative, and/or

I just looked at my (two piece block / brass worms) on my G11.. Just like the rest of the easy to access parts, my grease looks fantastic.. My Mount *appears* to be 'like new'.. I actually see this as

+1 on Chip's Advice.. On all subjects.. :-)) Derek _____ Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2017 5:39 PM To: Losmandy_users@... Subject: [Losmandy_users] Re: Super greasy worm gears on my GM8 +1

...ok, so I will respond to my own post, maybe for the aid of future generations... Although I could not see or detect any gapping between the bearing housings and center section as others have noted,

+1 on Chip's advice... I actually prefer older Losmandy mounts. Usually if they are working well, they keep working well. I always look for wear on the anodizing of the worm wheels, if they are well

Beautiful.. And yes, I would love to get together some time.. First I will continue on with cleaning and regreasing, as well as learning how to properly use the dang thing! New Question.. In reading

HI Derek, I guess that sound could possibly originate in loose "grub" screws that hold the Oldham coupler metal ends to the worm shaft (on one side) and the gearbox shaft (on the other side of

Wow! Look at all my new friends! :-)) I placed a wanted ad on Astromart for a G11 when I blew out the electronics on my Meade 12" LX200 Classic. By the springtime I will salvage my OTA and have it

Hi Michael, folks...Q & A.... yes the the U15/16 PLD ICs are indeed the "16V8BQL" (note "BQL") low power devices. I would not use the higher pwr devices for example the "BQ" version uses double the

Hi, Thanks a lot Chip. That's pretty much the answer I was hoping for I haven't used it that much really so I hope it will keep on going as it previously has. Otherwise I guess I'll have to upgrade

Hi Fredrik, If your GM8 is working well as it sits I suggest just leaving it alone and wiping the very excessive amount of lubricant in the photos using a clean, lint-free tech wipe and call it a day.

Hello. This is my first post here and I'm very happy to have found this group. I own a GM8 that's apparently from the 90's. I've used it with autoguiding to take 5 minute exposures without problems

You should use the ATF16V8BQL, rather than the ATF16V8B, as that is the only one that drops into low power mode when it has no signal transitions on the inputs. Dave Sent: 10 October 2017 16:56 To:

The most common cause of these problems is (as I understand it) mis-connecting the motor DIN plugs. I know they are polarized but I’m told it’s still possible to mis-plug them. Dave Sent: 10

OK. I've ordered 10 of these chips, and I found a 20-pin DIP to SOIC socket on eBay to allow me to program these. Next steps... await the experiment... of giving it a try.... and talking to John...!

OK. I see the chip listed here in the Mouser catalog as: http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=ATF16V8B-15SUvirtualkey55660000virtualkey556-AF16V8B15SU Atmel made these in the 20-pin SOIC

Micheal, I will call you this evening. John

Hi John, You can reach me, Michael Herman, at email: mherman346@... or by phone (I'm in California) at 408 421-1239 I suggest you call me to discuss this problem. Best, Michael On Tue, Oct 10,

Thanks David for the advice. I now see the IC's on the board now. I wonder if it would be worth swapping them to see if the problem changes to the RA instead of the DEC. In the mean time, How can I

I have fortunately not found Gemini units with this damage - yet. I cannot yet do that repair, as I have not yet developed the programming kit to make these replacements, but I will look into that.