Thanks Ryan, I'll give that a try.
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The reason is that the gemini does not have intermediate rates. You have Guide (generally 0.5x sidereal), center (maybe 20x sidereal) and slew (800x) sidereal.?
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Slew is 3.342 degrees per second... if NINA tells it to slew 3 degrees per second... it tries the next slower speed... which is centering... if you ask it to do 4 degrees per second, it will go as fast as it "can" according to your settings... which will be slew speed.
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I believe the TPPA defaults to 3 degrees per second. That triggers the Centering Rate with the Gemini Slew. Change the "Telescope Move Rate" to 4 degrees per second and that should fix it.
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Let us know if it works.
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Cheers
Ryan
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I have a question about slew rate in TPPA. I have a Losmandy G11T using the updated Gemini 2 driver. When using TPPA the scope slews to the first position at what ?think is a normal rate. However when slewing to the second and third position the slew rate is so slow it often takes 10 minutes to move to the next position. Anyone know if there is a TPPA or Gemini setting I should change.
Thanks, Frank
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Re: AZ8 thrust bearing sizes... Repurpose as Equatorial for imaging?
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Seems the AZ8, GM8, G9 and G11 all use the same bearings. " Then there are the lower thrust bearings and washers as well (1.25” ID).
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https://store-losmandy-com.3dcartstores.com/cktb
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or these alternates:
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https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/129/1398/5909K38
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https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/129/1398/5909K52
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with upper and lower washers both 1/32”, you need two."
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Looking at the AZ8, I think a wedge would have to attach to the top of the AZ (now RA) mounting flange to bring the center of gravity forward
But it seems doable. The bottom of the ALT (now DEC) shaft appears to be threaded. There is a reducer to the smaller threaded counterweight shaft used for single payload configuration, which I could try to untread. This makes it easy to attach a thicker shaft.
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Will possibly also need to modify the worm gear to a floating design. It should not be too challenging using one of the backlash adjustment screws. I found information in the files section that this has been done before... And then Onstep.
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AZ8 thrust bearing sizes... Repurpose as Equatorial for imaging?
Hi all, from the imperially challenged other side of the world (South Africa).
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I have an AZ8 acquired from local astronomer enthusiast Douglas Bullis with a beloved Intes Wirth (APM Markus Ludes) MN86 purchase.?
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I am missing the RA clutch needle thrust bearing, which I assume is the same as the GM8 and trying to source one locally before importing it from the USA. Can anyone suggest proper sizing on this bearing? Presumably, thickness will not be a concern. The Losmandy website states one 2.100" diameter needle thrust bearing, one 2.000" diameter needle thrust bearing.
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I am hoping to convert the AZ8 to equatorial by making a wedge where the bottom flange can bolt onto. This seems like a simple, non-destructive modification unless I'm missing something. Will also need to fashion some kind of counterweight system... Unless someone would like to trade for something equatorial with 30lb payload capacity?
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I do not see a serial number. I have the flat machined section for encoders and a polarscope hole with brass gears and worms.
Any advice here would be greatly appreciated. I tried to join the Losmandy hackers group, but it seems they are not taking any more members.
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Re: any user opinions on the new AZ8 with Gemini go to system?
On Tue, Apr 8, 2025 at 06:20 PM, Russ Lynn wrote:
I'm considering getting what appears to be the relatively new AZ8 with the Gemini 2 go to system with servo motors: ?
I am a visual observer with no interest at this point in imaging. ?And I have never used a Losmandy mount. ?I'm wondering if anyone using this new version of the AZ8 with go to and tracking could share their experience and opinions about this mount? ?TIA for any insight on this mount. ?
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Clear and steady skies, ?Russ
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Russ,
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While I have not used the Gemini equipped version the AZ8 is basically a GM8G turned vertically.? It will work as expected for visual use but for imaging field rotation will be an issue as it is for all ALT/AZ mounts.??
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Chip Louie Chief Daydreamer Imagination Hardware?
Astrospheric Forecast - South Pasadena, CA?
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any user opinions on the new AZ8 with Gemini go to system?
I'm considering getting what appears to be the relatively new AZ8 with the Gemini 2 go to system with servo motors: ?
I am a visual observer with no interest at this point in imaging. ?And I have never used a Losmandy mount. ?I'm wondering if anyone using this new version of the AZ8 with go to and tracking could share their experience and opinions about this mount? ?TIA for any insight on this mount. ?
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Clear and steady skies, ?Russ
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Worm Gear Cover Set Screw
Hi,
While installing Gem2 Retro-fit kit to my G-11, I lost one of the grub/set screws that hold the worm gear cover in place. Could someone tell me what size they are so I can go to the hardware for a replacement?
Thanks, Kevin
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Re: Disconnection Losmandy G11 GEMINI LV4
It all depends on how good you are at de-soldering and soldering.?? If in any doubt find a friend who has the relevant skills (and equipment). ? David ?
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Show quoted text
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of astroecliptico via groups.io
Sent: 06 April 2025 14:52
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users_io] Disconnection Losmandy G11 GEMINI LV4? Hello Ciril, Allow me to jump into this discussion to share my thoughts and also throw in a question for the group. I had the same issue a while back, and Paul pointed out the same solution. Needless to say, he was absolutely right — you really want to have a stable and noise-free connection between the mount and your control software. In my case, I cleaned all the connectors with Sonax (any similar brand will do), and it helped reduce the issue (it happened fewer times). I've narrowed down the problem to the Gemini RJ port on the gemini board, and I noticed there's an alternative communication method through the hand control DB port that I haven’t tried yet (). Here’s my question: Is replacing the RJ11 (11 or 12?) an easy fix for someone unskilled in electronics like myself, or should we go down the DB15 route instead? Good luck Ciril and thanks in advance for any additional comments on my inquiry. Guy
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Re: Disconnection Losmandy G11 GEMINI LV4
Hello Ciril,
Allow me to jump into this discussion to share my thoughts and also throw in a question for the group. I had the same issue a while back, and Paul pointed out the same solution. Needless to say, he was absolutely right — you really want to have a stable and noise-free connection between the mount and your control software.
In my case, I cleaned all the connectors with Sonax (any similar brand will do), and it helped reduce the issue (it happened fewer times). I've narrowed down the problem to the Gemini RJ port on the gemini board, and I noticed there's an alternative communication method through the hand control DB port that I haven’t tried yet ().
Here’s my question: Is replacing the RJ11 (11 or 12?) an easy fix for someone unskilled in electronics like myself, or should we go down the DB15 route instead? Good luck Ciril and thanks in advance for any additional comments on my inquiry. Guy
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On Wed, Apr 2, 2025 at 11:16 AM, Chip Louie wrote:
What are "Paul's Safety Clips"
Chip the comment referred to the earlier comment on this thread.? Where Paul mentioned using a washer as a clip hold the motor flange against the housing.? Preventing stress on the mounting bolts either before or after repair becomes a requirement.
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And the waxed dental thread material for damaged threads also something worth remembering.?
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{
On Thu, Mar 27, 2025 at 10:36 PM, Paul Kanevsky wrote:
I used the other screws that go into the metal cover, unscrewed them, put a fairly wide, rust-proof washer on them, then screwed them back in
}
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Doug
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On Wed, Apr 2, 2025 at 11:16 AM, Chip Louie wrote:
What are "Paul's Safety Clips" what do they do?
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On Tue, Apr 1, 2025 at 08:17 AM, WayBack wrote:
On Sun, Mar 30, 2025 at 06:21 PM, George Cushing wrote:
However, I came across this.....
I'm not sure of any material advantage exists for not just replacing the part, given this new part exists and installed with fewer unknowns.? But that reference link for repair of plastic coverings is a wonderful resource to keep in mind.
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Losmandy assembly should really use Paul's Safety Clips to help prevent the issue.? And sell a modified short motor hex key tool for these motors.? Something that fits straight in, limits torque, and costs $1 but sells for $5 to help with the stocking overhead.
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Thank you,
Doug
What are "Paul's Safety Clips" what do they do?
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Chip Louie Chief Daydreamer Imagination Hardware?
Astrospheric Forecast - South Pasadena, CA?
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On Sun, Mar 30, 2025 at 06:21 PM, George Cushing wrote:
However, I came across this.....
I'm not sure of any material advantage exists for not just replacing the part, given this new part exists and installed with fewer unknowns.? But that reference link for repair of plastic coverings is a wonderful resource to keep in mind.
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Losmandy assembly should really use Paul's Safety Clips to help prevent the issue.? And sell a modified short motor hex key tool for these motors.? Something that fits straight in, limits torque, and costs $1 but sells for $5 to help with the stocking overhead.
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Thank you,
Doug
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Yes, but in this design there's really?no material to take advantage?of the helicoils strengths. It can only thread into the same plastic.?
A good quality stainless 4-40 has a yield?strength of 120 pounds. A 0.112 4.40 tapped hole in 16 ga. ABS has about 60 pounds. No more than 1 in-lb. torque on the screw is recommended.?
I've used heat set threaded inserts and they work well with less chance of breaking the plastic. Problem is I've had about 3/16th" plus thick plastic to set them in. The gear housing doesn't look that heavy. However, I came across this you tube, which offers a solution.
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Re: Making a model with limited sky visibiltiy.
For what it’s worth…
I’ve had my G11 for slightly less than a year now, after years of having Celestron GEMs. The G11 on a permanent pier.
Like with your situation, my sky is limited by my garage and tall trees. Here’s what I did to get to get decent go-tos.
- In the daytime I used a ‘carpenter’s level’ app on my phone to set the tilt of the saddle equal to my latitude, then I used a solar app to set the mount pointing due north at local noon. This gave me a rough polar alignment.
- I don’t have a polarscope, but at night I was able to see Polaris through tree branches, so I eyeballed through the polar axis to tweak the mount to center Polaris.
- I could see a few bright stars, so I then used the ‘Polar Alignment Correction’ app in the Gemini II to further tweak the PA. (Scott Losmandy has a video describing this procedure on the Losmandy YouTube channel.)
- After a few months of use I could tell that the PA still wasn’t great so I ran the ‘Drift Alignment’ routine in PHD2. This worked quite well even with my very limited sky.
So now I do a 1-star synchronization on a bright star at the start of each night and then my automatic go-tos are pretty close. Occassionally I need to use platesolving to center the mount. For this I use the DSLR astrophotography software BYE/BYN along with ASTAP and Carts du Ciel.
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Another option, if your polar alignment is roughly ok, is to go to a bright star near the object you want to observe, then do ‘Model/ Synchronize’ on the HC. This will improve any go-tos you do in that part of the sky.
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On Sat, Mar 29, 2025 at 06:25 PM, Mike Colyar wrote:
I disagree with the idea that a thread repair solution like a Helicoil is not effective. The approximately doubling of the screw to female thread engagement area makes for a very much stronger fastening. There are several alternative systems on the market but the Helicoil design is probably more likely to be available at any decent sized fastener store. The required inserts, insertion tool and tap is not a five and dime purchase but compared with a replacement motor it is a bargain. And fix all of them while you are at it. Be proactive.
For what it is worth, when I build apparatus for highly stressed environments such as racing cars and aviation related designs, I build thread reinforcements of some sort into the design.
Mike
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Mike,
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Where applicable Helicoil threaded? inserts are an excellent solution for many metal thread repairs.? I have used them for decades in street and track car chassis repairs and modifications as well as alloy cylinder heads, blocks etc.??
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Where applicable are the key words.?
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Chip Louie Chief Daydreamer Imagination Hardware?
Astrospheric Forecast - South Pasadena, CA?
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I disagree with the idea that a thread repair solution like a Helicoil is not effective. The approximately doubling of the screw to female thread engagement area makes for a very much stronger fastening. There are several alternative systems on the market but the Helicoil design is probably more likely to be available at any decent sized fastener store. The required inserts, insertion tool and tap is not a five and dime purchase but compared with a replacement motor it is a bargain. And fix all of them while you are at it. Be proactive.
For what it is worth, when I build apparatus for highly stressed environments such as racing cars and aviation related designs, I build thread reinforcements of some sort into the design.
Mike
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Re: Making a model with limited sky visibiltiy.
On Wed, Mar 26, 2025 at 11:50 AM, David Woolf wrote:
I have limited visibility
With the HC (L6/1.6) you can use the mount to select your stars.? Say I set the mount to CWD and Cold Start, then I want to use a visible bright star.? ?Slew the mount manually to point the OTA at the star, well generally near or I use the finder.? Press Menu->Identify and select the BSL catalogue.? That returns a list of stars sorted by how close within the list the OTA points.? This BSL-star will be the top or closest bright star that the telescope points at.? GoTo that selection and center in the eyepiece.? Enter Menu->Model->Alignment for the 1-star alignment and synchronization.
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Then I slew to another star if desired, picking good placements.? Remembering we want them separated over the extended quadrant as well as possible for a given model side because any error centering on the cross hairs magnifies as the calculated circles extend to the galactic pole.? (A bad model works exactly like a good model, in a like manner).? So, if the OTA allows, reach across the meridian without changing saddle sides (without flipping) use these stars too as needed.? Visually we need good polar alignment with a 1-star alignment per side.? Or near polar alignment (<a few degrees) with three-to-five-star alignment on a side.
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Regardless of good or a so-so alignment, as mentioned I too always synchronize on a local star near where any target resides.? Again, IDENTIFY can be used to sync and center reliably.
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Doug
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Ryan Noonan
Chip Louie
David C. Partridge
Paul Kanevsky