On Sun, Mar 31, 2024 at 06:04 PM, Bill Krosney wrote:

Power supply is a regulated 12v DC supply via an 120v AC converter. ?This power supply setup has worked flawlessly for me in the past, so I don’t think it’s the issue. ?Is it possible the Hand Controller is toast, or at least the touch screen panel?

Hand controller is probably OK. Changing languages is something that happens when the lower right corner of the touch screen is pressed. This can be a piece of dirt or debris or the plastic case pushing on the screen. As it happens, there's a control right around that corner that switches languages. Check that there's nothing pressing on it, and try to loosen and shift the case a little. Be careful with the touch screen, it is fragile, so don't apply too much pressure or it'll crack. Here's some more information:?

Power supply is a regulated 12v DC supply via an 120v AC converter. ?This power supply setup has worked flawlessly for me in the past, so I don’t think it’s the issue. ?Is it possible the Hand Controller is toast, or at least the touch screen panel?

开云体育

What are you using for a power supply?? Try a different one.

Ok, this is a weird one. Powered up my Gemini-2 today (Gemini-2 mini driving a GM811). ?Got a message that the main circuit board power was low (or something to that effect) so I immediately replaced the CR2450 battery. Subsequently when I power up the unit the hand controller is not responding, or barely responding. ?Pressing the hand controller doesn’t change which screen I am on, but rather just cycles through the same menu screen in different languages. And then it only appears that the touch screen is only sensitive along the extreme right or top edge. ?The mount appears to be driving, left untouched for a couple of hours it definitely moves where the scope is pointed (I’m doing this indoors and am not picking up the GPS data). But the hand controller is basically useless. ?Thoughts?

-- 
Michael A. Covington, Ph.D.
Consultant, Covington Innovations, Athens, Georgia, USA 

Ok, this is a weird one. Powered up my Gemini-2 today (Gemini-2 mini driving a GM811). ?Got a message that the main circuit board power was low (or something to that effect) so I immediately replaced the CR2450 battery. Subsequently when I power up the unit the hand controller is not responding, or barely responding. ?Pressing the hand controller doesn’t change which screen I am on, but rather just cycles through the same menu screen in different languages. And then it only appears that the touch screen is only sensitive along the extreme right or top edge. ?The mount appears to be driving, left untouched for a couple of hours it definitely moves where the scope is pointed (I’m doing this indoors and am not picking up the GPS data). But the hand controller is basically useless. ?Thoughts?

“??You would never be able to use a pole master to polar align with that motor in the way.”

Thanks for the comment.

If I ever need to use a Polemaster, I suppose not. But as I mentioned, after doing a rough polar alignment by ‘eyeballing’ through the RA axis, I built a pointing model and then used the PAC app in the Gemini system to tweak my PA. So for now, I’m satisfied with the mount as is. It’s on a permanent pier, so I may ocassionally check and tweak my PA, but I don’t expect I’d need to use a Polemaster on a regular basis.

On Thu, Mar 28, 2024 at 07:11 PM, <kevinwalsh324@...> wrote:

Yes. Brand new from Losmandy a few months ago.
KW

You should contact losmandy about those motors. I’m pretty certain the part number on them should be SVM-HTS and would match the ones from Brian’s video. You would never be able to use a pole master to polar align with that motor in the way.

Greg Morris

On Fri, Mar 29, 2024 at 07:09 AM, <kevinwalsh324@...> wrote:

To use the polar scope, the Dec axis has to be turned about 20 degrees anyway, so the cable wouldn’t actually block the polar scope. Fwiw - I don’t have the polar scope. When I did my initial PA I just sighted through the empty polar axis and tweaked the azimuth bolts until I could see that Polaris was approximately centered. I did this since I was planning to use the PAC app to adjust my PA later anyway. When I was done I put the caps back on the polar axis shaft and set the Dec axis back to 90°. No problemo.

Did Losmandy install the ‘non-tucked’ motors on my G11? I don’t know. Apparently so. (My G11 is the only G11 I’ve ever seen ‘in person’.) I bought mine with the RA extension kit already installed, so maybe they used the ‘non tucked’ set of motors for it since my G11 would not need the ‘tucked’ version of the motors.

I have the Ipolar mounted so I would need the clearance the tucked motors provide. I also bought my mount with the RA extension, yet I have the tucked motors. Maybe they were out of stock at time they put together your mount.

“?Why would the cable be directly in front of the polar scope? The way the cable is in my motor works just fine.”

To use the polar scope, the Dec axis has to be turned about 20 degrees anyway, so the cable wouldn’t actually block the polar scope. Fwiw - I don’t have the polar scope. When I did my initial PA I just sighted through the empty polar axis and tweaked the azimuth bolts until I could see that Polaris was approximately centered. I did this since I was planning to use the PAC app to adjust my PA later anyway. When I was done I put the caps back on the polar axis shaft and set the Dec axis back to 90°. No problemo.

Did Losmandy install the ‘non-tucked’ motors on my G11? I don’t know. Apparently so. (My G11 is the only G11 I’ve ever seen ‘in person’.) I bought mine with the RA extension kit already installed, so maybe they used the ‘non tucked’ set of motors for it since my G11 would not need the ‘tucked’ version of the motors.

The advice I got here was that with the spring loaded worms, people who start adjusting them never stop.? Just use it, is the advice from the factory.? Which I have done with good results on a 75mm refractor.??

Mine has been out side under cover since August, hot summer, cold winter, no adjustment.? Tracking always about the same.? ?Since the computer comes inside with me, it's great to just leave out all the time.? Best mount in its price class. If you ask me.? G11G.??

On Thu, Mar 28, 2024 at 07:11 PM, <kevinwalsh324@...> wrote:

Yes. Brand new from Losmandy a few months ago

Both motors are on the website, it seems like they might have put the older non tucked version on yours.

On Thu, Mar 28, 2024 at 07:11 PM, <kevinwalsh324@...> wrote:

Yes. Brand new from Losmandy a few months ago.

I don't understand the new motor. Why would the cable be directly in front of the polar scope? The way the cable is in my motor works just fine.

Yes. Brand new from Losmandy a few months ago.
KW

On Thu, Mar 28, 2024 at 10:33 AM, Paul Kanevsky wrote:

Unless you see obvious problems, don't bother.

I had an ongoing intermittent RA stalling issue that would result in motor overheating. Repeated adjustment to the spring was only temporary until I adjusted the worm blocks. So, what is needed is not always obvious.

I have a 4 year old GM811. To answer a few of your questions.

PHD says my dec has a massive 10-15 sec backlash, yet the guiding is usually around 0.4-0.6” in dec. rA is a different thing and haven’t messed much with it but I need to re-align the oldham coupler, however it’s usually around 0.8”. So, large backlash in DEC is not something to worry about, at least in my experience.

As for the clutch pressure, just tight enough that it won’t move of it’s own accord should be enough, you don’t need to tighten to the point of not being able to move it by hand. In fact, I think having it a bit loose can help in the event of a cable snag as it’s better to loose tracking or position than to have a broken cable or worse, a burnt motor (although I don’t think that last will likely happen, but still).

The option to separate the RA axis is a must in my mind, unless you plan on a permanent, pier mounted setup.

tweaking the mount will likely be needed from time to time, especially if you live where there are wild temperature swings. Thankfully where I live we get from around 13C at night in winter to about 20C in the summer, so I haven’t needed to tweak for stalls or something similar. Your milage may vary. Having said that, in general, tweaking is easy and straight forward.

Underweighing the mount is a non issue. The only problem might be finding a way to balance such a small load. I use mine with a 72mm refractor and had to use some weight on top of it to make the puny little 7 pounder be able to balance it. After turning to AP, with a 50mm guidescope, filter wheel and heavy cooled camera that 7lb CW is riding pretty high up the CW shaft. Other than that it’s not like the mount will suffer from using too small a load (as long as you can find balance)

Hope this helps

On Thu, Mar 28, 2024 at 09:53 AM, Michael A. Covington wrote:

I have not adjusted my GM811G.? What am I missing?? What would improve if I adjusted it?

I have a 2018 GM811G and I noticed in some of Scott’s videos that dec slewed quite a bit louder. So I adjusted it as he shows in the video and I have not touched it since. I’ve been visual but started last year to attempt imaging but some neck issues set me back a good bit. Now I have that behind me so I’m fixing to get back out to start again. We did a major renovation of our home and all my stuff has been put up. I am also going to upgrade it to a G11 since I plan to do imaging. I have a ES 127mm fcd100 CF telescope that I have added a feather touch focuser to it. I have so imagers and an ASIAIR plus. I’ll be about done spending on it after I upgrade to a G11. But the wife is cool to getting an observatory and pier! Soooo.

Balance is key from what I have read also.?

I do believe I will have my work cut out for me for a while with Gemini to make sure I have all settings done correctly all the time.? I have been very use to the synta hand controller for several years.? I ditched the hand controller over a year ago.
I intend to run the mount through NINA.

I do appreciate all of the responses. My mind has been put at ease.

I have read the CN posts on Mounts. I figured I would go directly to the horses mouth and ask the Losmandy User Groups.

I still have one question - how tight do you make the clutches?? Tight enough to where you can still move both axis by finger touch? Or tight enough where you have to get a hand hold to move the axis?

Thank you everyone and please keep the responses coming.

On Thu, Mar 28, 2024 at 02:39 PM, <kevinwalsh324@...> wrote:

Here are two photos. The first is a photo of the Dec motor on my G11. This mount is only a few months old.

This is a new G11? Did you buy it from Losmandy?

“?Do you have pictures of this? I bought mine last April and I am curious to see what you mean.”

Here are two photos. The first is a photo of the Dec motor on my G11. This mount is only a few months old.

The second photo is a screencap from the video of Brian Valente installing the Dec motor (I think on a GM811). Notice the orientation on the Losmandy name and the location of the connectors. In the video the connector is on the side of the motor housing. On mine, the connector is on the flat end.?

So when I installed my motor per the video, I inadvertently hid the connector up against the saddle. LOL It took me a second to realize they’d change the motors a bit and moved the connector location.

?

On Thu, Mar 28, 2024 at 09:53 AM, Michael A. Covington wrote:

I have not adjusted my GM811G.? What am I missing?? What would improve if I adjusted it?

Adjusting the Spring-Loaded Worm Gear is a matter of balancing the backlash and the tightness of the gear mesh, which will result in stalling if it is too tight. It has taken me some time to get a feel for this. It is possible yours are already set, mine were not. These 2 videos can be confusing, I wish there was only one, with more complete information.