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Hi Bob Always time for more education. I thought the worm gear turns a matching ring gear, but I may have read wring info years ago, or I digested it incorrectly. Anyways, I have only read of one

Hi Dave, It's a bad habit, if it's white, and it's supposed to slip, I just assume it's Teflon.? It's probably High Density Polyethylene (HDPE). Hi Michael, My worm wheel is silver, and I think it's

The machining of the worms at the end of the clutch cylinder was used on the '80s Vixen SP and is still copied to day on the SW EQ-5 and the ES EXOS-2. The general bad machining of the cylinder to the

Here are photos of the two versions of G11 worm wheel aka ring gear. I forgot to add those to the last message. One is black and seems smooth anodized aluminum. The other is older and appears to be a

Nice analysis, Bob. The G11 ring gear used to be (sometimes during it's production) steel. It is not black anodized anywhere on its surface...here is a photo. Later and current production is black

Just a small detail - the clutch pads are not Teflon! They’d be useless for a clutch if they were. Not sure exactly what plastic they are but you can be sure they’re not Teflon. David Sent: 05

Alan137, The tilt of the worm wheel (it's not a ring gear) is another issue.? Certainly the worm wheel needs to be elevated above the plate upon which it resides.? There is a large radial bearing

No need to change the gearbox for either the Maxxon or HT motors. I’ll leave others to comment on whether it’s worth upgrading as I’m still using the “original” motors. David Sent: 05 August

Sorry yes ok to swap. Put a HT on each RA only Winning. -- Brendan

Bryn you don’t need to change the gearboxes. ?The newer motors just produce more torque at same current the older motors draw. ?Thus are more efficient ?and ?less axes stalls Might be nice to

Hi, I have recently picked up an old used G11 with Gemini 1 and the original smooth servo motors. I understand that to upgrade the motors I would also need to upgrade the gearboxes. Is this correct?

Nice work, John. I can confirm your notes and add a few more insights, as I also took apart two different G11s today. One is a very recent G11 production, belonging to Vishal who lives near me. It has

John, Your points well taken. It's probably too big a step to make that recommendation unless there's evidence that there is eccentricity in gear. As you point out, there can be a lot of variation in

Please see pics from my RA rebuild done in November 2020, after about 3 years use. The RA shaft has the scoring Peter has mentioned, heavier on one side than the other. Also note RA assembly with RA

Just came across this new video posted to YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qujs7Kt_6_c&t=1543s The author shows how to completely tear down, clean and upgrade the SkyWatcher mount, for those

The bottom one would be from before June 1998 when the 323 area code was created. BTW, if you wanted a G-11 for Christmas in 1998, it was $3400, with a tripod and digital drive controller; no Gemini

The issue of "indexing" is a red herring, especially for these newer mounts. I have scales on both my axes, so I always know the absolute position. I think the current ring gear is hard anodized

Tapered roller bearings don't constrain the ring gear mechanism in tilt, which is important for worm mesh alignment. I think needle roller thrust bearing is the right one to use because it is the