Re: Changing the servo motor encoders from 256 to 512 or 1024. Any reason not to do this?
yeah I have tick size as .05625 arc sec's per tick on G11 ...and G8...as it has a 2 prescalar (I think) for Ra gear
Titan 50 was at 0.02 arc sec's per tick which is the most accurate pointing wise.
--
Brendan
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Re: Changing the servo motor encoders from 256 to 512 or 1024. Any reason not to do this?
Third edit (sorry jim et al,)
1/256/25/180 (teeth on G8 ring gear)=8.7E-7 rotations
*360 degrees *3600 =1.1 arc sec.? Hmm, that seems coarse.
Maybe I messed up the math again.? Don't feel like editing any more
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Re: Odd Mount Movement Behavior While Modeling
Somewhere in Gemini settings there is a "ramp up and ramp down" time for the mount to decelerate after a move.? I think it's something like 1 or 2 seconds.? But I also noticed that the mount keeps moving in RA very slowly for about 10 seconds after a big move, and then suddenly stops.? It caused many of my plate solves to fail.? So now I just wait about 10 seconds after a big RA move before doing anything.??
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Odd Mount Movement Behavior While Modeling
I have a GM811G and was running a ¡®Test¡¯ version of the ASCOM Driver Rel 1.80.0.? When I select a star I use +- RA and +- DEC to center the star then model the Star.? Many times the star would continue to move slightly in +-RA after I press Align until I press the opposite direction button.? DEC +- works as expected.
?
What causes this???
------------------------ Jim W Phoenix, AZ. USA
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Changing the servo motor encoders from 256 to 512 or 1024. Any reason not to do this?
The current design provides a step resolution of a little over 0.5 arcs. US Digtal has other 1" optical encoders that offer higher resolution (note: the disk and the sensor need to be bought as a pair). I was wondering if there was any downside in replacing the current 256 encoder with say a 512 encoder. The logic being to have a smaller step size for improved guiding. The Gemini II controller seems to allow for an encoder up to 1024. I would imagine the speed setting would need to be changed, but I'm unsure on that.
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Re: Gemini 1 beeping after power on
Yeah could be bad SRAM pulling too much current...killing batteries quickly.
I'd say the RS232 issue is damaged transceiver the receive is ok but txmit part is bad.?? Needs a new IC.?? I think you're in UK...so David partridge is closest.
You have tried as much you can its eating batteries...there is an internal fault.
Cheers
--
Brendan
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Re: ASCOM Device Hub or not
That is the other purpose of POTH (replace with ASCOM Device Hub), to translate bit size between client app and device driver by loading device driver in a separate application. Does not appear to be an issue for my particular clients:? PHD2, NINA 64bit, and Cartes du Ciel.
--
Edward
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Re: ASCOM Device Hub or not
yeah that's fair.
TSX is it's kind of it's own thing, especially the 64 bit version.?
Greg how do you connect - i would assume -> TSX and TSX 2X ascom to all other apps?
On Fri, Jun 11, 2021 at 11:13 AM Greg Crawford < rover53@...> wrote:
Edward,
?
The answers given to you may not apply well to all users, especially those who use TheSkyX Pro 64 bit. I found that the Gemini driver did not connect with the 64 bit version.
It threw an error. I could bypass the error by using the ASCOM Device Hub. I am not particularly literate with software parlance, but I found using he ASCOM Device Hub overcame problems with using the 64 bit version of TheSkyX.
?
Greg
?
?
In my previous GM8/Gemini-1, I connected PHD2, imaging tool, and planetarium to the mount via POTH to share the mount connection.?
Now, with my new G11/Gemini-2,??I connect to the mount with Ethernet and?assumed I still needed to use ASCOM Device Hub to share the mount connection.
?
Based on some reading today, I am questioning whether this true. Do I need the device hub software at all??
How are you all connecting multiple clients to the ASCOM Gemini driver via Ethernet in the simplest manner. I am transitioning to NINA so my target suite is PHD2/NINA/Cartes du Ciel.
Thank you,
--
Edward
-- Brian?
Brian Valente portfolio
|
Re: Gemini 1 beeping after power on
I'll hazard a guess there parts are worn:
?serial port chip ( MAX232 or MAX2331, etc) is damaged.? That's why the serial port device can't get a signal back.?
Your D1 dual Schottky diode.? That's wearing out your battery.?
Send it to David Partridge in UK for repair.? He'll evaluate and repair it for you.?
?
Well, after comming home, I made some test before sending the mount to repair. The CR battery marked 2.8V. I changed it for a new CR battery (marks 3.3V) and it seems to work with the HC, but is imposible to connect with que PC. With the Gemini Telescope .NET programm and ASCOM installed, it seems to detect the RS232 adapter in the COM3 port, but at connection it throws an error. "Cannot connect to Gemini! Gemini no responding. Is gemini connected?" At start, the HC controller dont show any error and ask for a Warm or Cold start (I didn't found any setup in the HC to change it to do always a cold start in the setup menu). Someone knows what the new problem could be?I'm waiting to send it becouse from my home the courier cost a lot, and If i could find a sollution...
El lun, 7 jun 2021 a las 21:08, Michael Herman (< mherman346@...>) escribi¨®: Yes...I only need the main metal box unit. It fits well into the USPS small priority box, for about $9.
If you suspect any other part is a problem, send it for me to test it.???I sell serial port cables and ATEN UC232A serial to USB cables too if you need that.??
Send it on Friday and it should get to me on Monday.? I'll be home Sunday night.??
Best, Michael
Hi michael, what do you need to be sent? Only the Gemini 1 console? I'll search for a carrier to send it. Can we talk privately about the payment method and other possible questions?
Greetings, Enol.
El lun, 7 jun 2021 a las 4:20, Michael Herman (< mherman346@...>) escribi¨®: Enol,
Yes... your new clues point to one or both of 2 chips going bad.?
?Send it to me to arrive on about Tuesday June 14.?
?I'll be home then to receive it and work on repair. I have the parts ready.? I'll bulletproof it also as part of the repair.?
I'm at: Michael Herman 1331 Belleville Way,? Sunnyvale, CA 94087 Mobile 408-421-1239
Best, Michael
Well, it was working Okay, and then after 7 300" exposures, it sudenly stop working. I had the HC connected, and it showed a letter in the middle. I power of and power on, and star beeping. Get an WD Reset error. I pull out the CR2354 battery, wait and put it. It power on and the third dot was an "X" and you could change it with the arrows. Power of, power on, and after a long beep, it star to shortly beeping continuously. After that, only beep. No RA limit becaouse I move to M51 that was up in the sky and is going down to the horizon, so at least I'll have 5-6h until untherground.
I think I'll send the gemini control to Michael to test it and made the neccesary changes. Can you send me a private mail with the info about the sending, payment, etc? This is a good mount, but I'm losting nights with some errors that I never see before.
Greetings, Enol.
I think what you had was a std loss of data and CMOS reset on battery change?
once you re-enter data lat/long time, mount type the SRAM will remember it and no more ¡°beeps¡± at peer on.?
till next battery change ? Try use Gemini ASCOM it can save your Gemini settings as a file that you can upload after a battery change ? Simple ?
well done.?
--
Brendan
|
Re: Gemini 1 beeping after power on
Well, after comming home, I made some test before sending the mount to repair. The CR battery marked 2.8V. I changed it for a new CR battery (marks 3.3V) and it seems to work with the HC, but is imposible to connect with que PC. With the Gemini Telescope .NET programm and ASCOM installed, it seems to detect the RS232 adapter in the COM3 port, but at connection it throws an error. "Cannot connect to Gemini! Gemini no responding. Is gemini connected?" At start, the HC controller dont show any error and ask for a Warm or Cold start (I didn't found any setup in the HC to change it to do always a cold start in the setup menu). Someone knows what the new problem could be?I'm waiting to send it becouse from my home the courier cost a lot, and If i could find a sollution...
El lun, 7 jun 2021 a las 21:08, Michael Herman (< mherman346@...>) escribi¨®: Yes...I only need the main metal box unit. It fits well into the USPS small priority box, for about $9.
If you suspect any other part is a problem, send it for me to test it.???I sell serial port cables and ATEN UC232A serial to USB cables too if you need that.??
Send it on Friday and it should get to me on Monday.? I'll be home Sunday night.??
Best, Michael
Hi michael, what do you need to be sent? Only the Gemini 1 console? I'll search for a carrier to send it. Can we talk privately about the payment method and other possible questions?
Greetings, Enol.
El lun, 7 jun 2021 a las 4:20, Michael Herman (< mherman346@...>) escribi¨®: Enol,
Yes... your new clues point to one or both of 2 chips going bad.?
?Send it to me to arrive on about Tuesday June 14.?
?I'll be home then to receive it and work on repair. I have the parts ready.? I'll bulletproof it also as part of the repair.?
I'm at: Michael Herman 1331 Belleville Way,? Sunnyvale, CA 94087 Mobile 408-421-1239
Best, Michael
Well, it was working Okay, and then after 7 300" exposures, it sudenly stop working. I had the HC connected, and it showed a letter in the middle. I power of and power on, and star beeping. Get an WD Reset error. I pull out the CR2354 battery, wait and put it. It power on and the third dot was an "X" and you could change it with the arrows. Power of, power on, and after a long beep, it star to shortly beeping continuously. After that, only beep. No RA limit becaouse I move to M51 that was up in the sky and is going down to the horizon, so at least I'll have 5-6h until untherground.
I think I'll send the gemini control to Michael to test it and made the neccesary changes. Can you send me a private mail with the info about the sending, payment, etc? This is a good mount, but I'm losting nights with some errors that I never see before.
Greetings, Enol.
I think what you had was a std loss of data and CMOS reset on battery change?
once you re-enter data lat/long time, mount type the SRAM will remember it and no more ¡°beeps¡± at peer on.?
till next battery change ? Try use Gemini ASCOM it can save your Gemini settings as a file that you can upload after a battery change ? Simple ?
well done.?
--
Brendan
|
Re: ASCOM Device Hub or not
Edward,
?
The answers given to you may not apply well to all users, especially those who use TheSkyX Pro 64 bit. I found that the Gemini driver did not connect with the 64 bit version.
It threw an error. I could bypass the error by using the ASCOM Device Hub. I am not particularly literate with software parlance, but I found using he ASCOM Device Hub overcame problems with using the 64 bit version of TheSkyX.
?
Greg
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] <[email protected]>
On Behalf Of Edward Plumer
Sent: Friday, 11 June 2021 3:07 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [Losmandy_users_io] ASCOM Device Hub or not
?
In my previous GM8/Gemini-1, I connected PHD2, imaging tool, and planetarium to the mount via POTH to share the mount connection.?
Now, with my new G11/Gemini-2,??I connect to the mount with Ethernet and?assumed I still needed to use ASCOM Device Hub to share the mount connection.
?
Based on some reading today, I am questioning whether this true. Do I need the device hub software at all??
How are you all connecting multiple clients to the ASCOM Gemini driver via Ethernet in the simplest manner. I am transitioning to NINA so my target suite is PHD2/NINA/Cartes du Ciel.
Thank you,
--
Edward
|
Re: ASCOM Device Hub or not
That simplifies start up, thanks!
--
Edward
|
Re: DIY Spring Loaded Worms for the G11
I manually modified rockmover's brackets after printing.?
Basically, I just had to drill a big hole to move the RA motor to
the outboard location.?? I attempted to tweak rockmover's
brackets, but couldn't convert them due to the half millions
facets being too complicated to reverse engineer back to an
editable .STL, at least with the software I tried.? I was going to
design my own brackets, but never got the push to really get
started.? The rockmover ones seem to be working well enough for
now, so Ive been putting my efforts towards dialing in the spring
loaded worms and tweaking things there instead.
Glad to hear you made some progress.? Please feel free to share
any adjustments or modifications that you found to be helpful
along the way.? I'm sure there's plenty of tweaks I haven't
considered, and the more information we can get, the better. And
it'll help the next guy, too.
Thanks and good luck with it,
-Tony
On 6/11/2021 10:33 AM, bjaffa Jaffa
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Thanks soo much for your detailed reply.? You were spot on with
the number 3 option. I found loose lateral movement in the dec. I
have
the bellville washers but they were not compressed enough to make
them effective.?
I had better results last night but still have some work to do. I
very much appreciate your response and insights.? I will send
pic's when I iron out some more kinks.
So I had a reduction based on and modification of rockmovers 3d
printed design in thingverse (3 to 1). But had some issues. SO I
went back to direct couple to test your DIY spring loaded design.
I think you have also a modified version. Can you share the STL
file so I can compare what I did to see if I can make
improvements?
Thanks so much,
Brent
|
Re: DIY Spring Loaded Worms for the G11
Thanks soo much for your detailed reply.? You were spot on with the number 3 option. I found loose lateral movement in the dec. I have
the bellville washers but they were not compressed enough to make them effective.?
I had better results last night but still have some work to do. I very much appreciate your response and insights.? I will send pic's when I iron out some more kinks.
So I had a reduction based on and modification of rockmovers 3d printed design in thingverse (3 to 1). But had some issues. SO I went back to direct couple to test your DIY spring loaded design.
I think you have also a modified version. Can you share the STL file so I can compare what I did to see if I can make improvements?
Thanks so much,
Brent
|
Re: DIY Spring Loaded Worms for the G11
Hi Brent -
Glad to hear the mod went well, would love to see some pics!
I'm no PHD2 expert by any means, but looking at your graph, I'd
say something is loose, big time!? It was guiding well enough, but
then started oscillating more and more wildly.? Some primary
suspects I would investigate include:
1. Play in the left block pivot point.? I shimmed mine with
plastic strapping tape so that the block protrusion was a snug
fit, but would still easily turn.? Don't snug the bolt, it needs
to be free.
2. Lateral movement of the worm between the two bearings.? Did you
compress them slightly while tightening them to the one piece worm
block? Just enough for some preload, but not so much the bearings
feel notchy.? Make sure the holes in your OPWB allow for enough
adjustment.? Michael Herman suggests belleville washers in? there
to allow for temperature changes.? I may eventually go that route,
but for now, Ill reseat it if temperature swings affect it.
3. The worm block pivoting away.? Either the pivot point is too
tight, the sliding bolt is too tight, or simply insufficient
spring tension to keep the worm against the wheel.? As the dec
worm works back and forth, the threads want to climb, pushing the
worm block assembly away from the worm wheel, increasing
backlash.? If the pivot point is too tight, it may hold the
wormblock out of place and keep it from returning.? Make sure
everything moves freely, and you shouldnt need too much spring
tension.? I also greased under my worm blocks, and the aluminum
conical fittings for the bottom bolts.? I want everything to move
as freely as possible, but without any play.
If you can safely rule out the first two suggestions, then number
3 seems like a strong possibility.? I think it's always going to
be a bit of a balancing act to get the spring tension correct, and
to get the bottom bolt tension right.? To give you some idea, I
have my left bolt loose enough that I can easily spin the aluminum
conical fitting the bolt sits in.? On the right side, I switched
to a long bolt and another spring.? This has just enough tension
to keep the worm block flat against the worm mounting plate.? You
could just leave the stock bolt loose, but I thought some light
but constant pressure would be good here.? With no worm spring
tension, the whole assembly moves quite easily.? As for how much
worm spring tension to use, I just gradually increase it until I
start to feel an increase in effort required to turn the stepper
motor by hand.? Once I feel a little added drag, I figure the worm
is being pushed into place.? I dont want too much because thats?
added friction, wear, and load on the motor.? And if youre using
helical couplings, it could cause some wind up.? For that reason,
I switched to a rigid coupling on the DEC axis.
With TMC5160 drivers, and I assume big 1.5-2.0 amp stepper
motors, you should have plenty of available torque, as long as the
worm block moves freely, and your spring tension is not crazy
tight.? I moved from direct drive to belt drive (1:3.75 reduction)
before I moved to the spring loaded worms, but the belt reduction
did seem to help while I was running the two piece worm blocks.?
It greatly reduces the load on the motors, and I felt the
increased accuracy there overcomes the added complexity and
additional bearings, shafts, etc.? Still, its probably not a total
game changer, and I think there will always be healthy competition
between direct drive and belt reduction, as they both have pros
and cons.
I tend to constantly tinker with my PHD2 settings from night to
night.? Lately I have been running the Predictive PEC algo, but
for simplicity's sake, lets assume the default "hysteresis" and
"resist switch" algos.? On nights with good seeing, my settings
are typically in the following ranges:
RA Agr:? 60-75
Hys: 7-10
MinMo: 12
DEC Agr: 80-90
MinMo: 15
I'm running 2.6.9 dev 5, and using multi-star.? My exposure is
typically 1 second, but Ill increase to 2 when necessary.? I
typically adjust RA to try to get the RA Osc in the 20-30 range.??
I'm guiding at .5x sidereal rate, and I start with 200ms backlash
compensation on the DEC.? Ive seen this grow to 400ms, or drop to
60ms as needed.? My OnStep is version 4.24d, and I do not use any
backlash compensation in OnStep directly.? I'm running a WeMos
ESP32 and CNC3 shield with LV8729 drivers and 400 step 2.0A
motors, and currently using 1/16 microsteps.?? I'll be switching
the drivers out for TMC2130s with SPI to allow for changing
microstepping during gotos.? I just bench tested the new brains
yesterday, and just have to swap them out now.?
But honestly, I'm pretty confident your wild DEC swings are
mechanical in nature, and not due to any hardware or software
differences.
Good luck, and please share some pics.? I'd love to see your spin
on things.
Thanks,
-Tony
On 6/10/2021 11:27 AM, bjaffa Jaffa
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
GuitsBoy
?I have implemented your DIY spring load worm design. The
mod went really well with the drill jig you 3d printed.
Tracking appears to work well
with no binding but I am having trouble with guiding.
Especially with the DEC. I have attached an image.
SO I am using MAXPCB OnStep v3.16 (steppers TNC5160, motor 9
deg, 400 step) right now I am direct coupled but I have 3d
printed and modified rockmover's design. I though I would
first try to get
some results with the direct coupled first. It tracks
reasonable for a few minutes but than the DEC goes wild.
1. Can you share how you tune your design. DO you tighten
the springs; such that there is no movement at all
2. What are your PHD2 guiding algorithms and parameters.
3. Do you use resistive switch on the DEC and do you use
backlash settings in PHD2.
4. What is your OnStep version (and drivers and PCB)? and do
you set backlash in the OnStep config file?
Thanks for any help and guidance,? Brent
|
Nice day indeed. I got my new one in March, to replace my 30+ year old model.
|
It's going to be a good day when you wake up, check your email, see that your credit card has been charged for your new G11 and you also have a tracking number from FedEx.? The wait is almost over....
|
Re: Resetting spring-loaded worm
In relation to Number 3 by Brian.? I used Loctite (Blue) and a 0.005 gap gauge and 'snugged' them down.
------------------------
Jim W
Phoenix, AZ. USA
|
Re: ASCOM Device Hub or not
you only need Gemini Telescope.net ASCOM (i.e., the ascom driver)
it acts as a hub. connect everything through that and it will work great.?
re: ethernet, that is a setting inside the Gemini ascom driver, and is invisible to connecting apps
Brian
On Thu, Jun 10, 2021 at 10:07 PM Edward Plumer < eplumer@...> wrote:
In my previous GM8/Gemini-1, I connected PHD2, imaging tool, and planetarium to the mount via POTH to share the mount connection.?
Now, with my new G11/Gemini-2,??I connect to the mount with Ethernet and?assumed I still needed to use ASCOM Device Hub to share the mount connection.
?
Based on some reading today, I am questioning whether this true. Do I need the device hub software at all??
How are you all connecting multiple clients to the ASCOM Gemini driver via Ethernet in the simplest manner. I am transitioning to NINA so my target suite is PHD2/NINA/Cartes du Ciel.
Thank you,
--
Edward
-- Brian?
Brian Valente portfolio
|
Re: Resetting spring-loaded worm
On Thu, Jun 10, 2021 at 10:12 PM, Edward Plumer wrote:
From previous exchange with Jim, I am assuming your #3 refers to the big cap screws that Scott never touches in the video?
Correct? Brian
|
Edward Plumer
Michael Herman