Re: Cleaning and lubing the worm and worm gear
Wow! ?Using the WayBack Machine to find that one. ?Thanks.
I¡¯m still on the fence as to whether to dig into this. ?I think I¡¯ll see if the cleaning and re-lubing of the needle bearings fixed my immediate problem. ?I should be able to get out tonight to try it.
Bill On Dec 4, 2020, at 8:55 AM, Edward Beshore via < ebeshore@...> wrote:
Bill - I should add that removing the worm involves removing the hex head cap screws that hold the two worm blocks, and that are loosened when adjusting the worm. This will make cleaning and access to the worm gear easier. Once you have loosened them, you have committed to re-adjusting the worm, and so removal is not a big step up. That said, I would not recommend disassembling the worm from the worm blocks - keep them all together.
When I set out to do this, I found the instructions at this site to be very useful
With this guidance, you can easily remove the covers that expose the entire worm gear which makes cleaning much easier. Its important to be methodical when tearing the mount down so reassembly doesn't result in your asking "does the wavy washer go on first or last?" Snap some pictures to record disassembly ?or lay things out in careful order as they come off.
Finally, with respect to my remark about using mineral spirits to remove grease ¡ª it works well, its not terribly volatile and nasty, but it does leave a residue and I would do the alcohol rinse. If you use another solvent, you may not need the alcohol step, just do it in a well ventilated area.
If you have a friend who repairs engines or is pretty handy mechanically, have them give you a hand.?
--? Bill Tschumy Otherwise -- Longmont, CO
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Re: Cleaning and lubing the worm and worm gear
Bill - I should add that removing the worm involves removing the hex head cap screws that hold the two worm blocks, and that are loosened when adjusting the worm. This will make cleaning and access to the worm gear easier. Once you have loosened them, you have committed to re-adjusting the worm, and so removal is not a big step up. That said, I would not recommend disassembling the worm from the worm blocks - keep them all together.
When I set out to do this, I found the instructions at this site to be very useful
With this guidance, you can easily remove the covers that expose the entire worm gear which makes cleaning much easier. Its important to be methodical when tearing the mount down so reassembly doesn't result in your asking "does the wavy washer go on first or last?" Snap some pictures to record disassembly ?or lay things out in careful order as they come off.
Finally, with respect to my remark about using mineral spirits to remove grease ¡ª it works well, its not terribly volatile and nasty, but it does leave a residue and I would do the alcohol rinse. If you use another solvent, you may not need the alcohol step, just do it in a well ventilated area.
If you have a friend who repairs engines or is pretty handy mechanically, have them give you a hand.?
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Re: Sh2-114 aka Flying Dragon nebula
Mearl...it's pretty hard to find. I've been chasing this object for several years and have imaged it atleast 3 times now. The problem is it doesn't show up in a short exposure. Over the years I've come to recognize a star feature to tell me when I'm on it. I call it the mickey mouse star cluster. It's one star with 2 smaller stars positioned just like you would imagine mickey mouse would appear if he was looking right at you. Not a large feature but this is the only place I've seen it. It's center of the image height wise and in the right side quadrant.
Yeah...sure hope we have a SRSP this spring.
Good luck, Stu
Hi Stu, You inspired me to look for this. Missed not being able to see you at SRSP this year in VA. Hope all are well down by the Beach.
Mearl
On Thu, Dec 3, 2020, 4:20 PM Stu Beaber < wd4sel@...> wrote: Tks Brian...from my location it takes a 10 minute image to even see it...and I mean barely see it!
Stu
On Thu, Dec 3, 2020 at 4:12 PM Brian Valente < bvalente@...> wrote: very cool Stu - i wasn't even aware of this nebula!
On Thu, Dec 3, 2020 at 12:59 PM Stu Beaber < wd4sel@...> wrote: Shot this last night (12/2/20) in Ha light only (96% Moon). Hope to get more on it tonight to make the larger wings stand out better...
Stu
--
Brian?
Brian Valente portfolio
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Re: Sh2-114 aka Flying Dragon nebula
Hi Stu, You inspired me to look for this. Missed not being able to see you at SRSP this year in VA. Hope all are well down by the Beach.
Mearl
On Thu, Dec 3, 2020, 4:20 PM Stu Beaber < wd4sel@...> wrote: Tks Brian...from my location it takes a 10 minute image to even see it...and I mean barely see it!
Stu
On Thu, Dec 3, 2020 at 4:12 PM Brian Valente < bvalente@...> wrote: very cool Stu - i wasn't even aware of this nebula!
On Thu, Dec 3, 2020 at 12:59 PM Stu Beaber < wd4sel@...> wrote: Shot this last night (12/2/20) in Ha light only (96% Moon). Hope to get more on it tonight to make the larger wings stand out better...
Stu
--
Brian?
Brian Valente portfolio
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Re: Cleaning and lubing the worm and worm gear
Here is a link to adjusting a GM8 gear. ?There is no video i am aware of that describes servicing.?
ed
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That will be fine John.
Tom
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Re: Cleaning and lubing the worm and worm gear
Hi Bill
it's a tricky recommendation for us. On one hand, we really don't want people to disassemble the worm gear, because if you don't know what you're doing?you can easily create more problems than?improvements.As I mentioned before it really doesn't need to be checked that often.?
Personally i'm a little more pro-DIY. I prodded Scott to do a video on this and he really doesn't want to. He feels it sends the wrong message that it's something people should be regularly?doing. And we get a lot of support issues related to people doing unnecessary maintenance and fiddling with hardware and creating problems for themselves that ends up degrading mount performance. I realize this group here is generally more experienced and i'm sure some are scoffing at this notion :)?
I would say start with the needle bearings and what I described and just see how it performs. if you open it up and see a ton of gunk in there and maybe some nesting spiders, we should probably talk
another option in general is to send to us for clean/relube service.?
I hope that makes sense
Brian
On Thu, Dec 3, 2020 at 5:04 PM Bill Tschumy < bill@...> wrote: So, just to be clear, you don¡¯t recommend disassembling the head so the worm gears are fully exposed for a more thorough cleaning?? Just paint a little degreaser on the gear and clean it off as best you can?? Then follow with adding some lube?? Run the motor to a new location and repeat?
Are there instruction anywhere for how to get into this thing, or am I asking for trouble?
Bill On Dec 3, 2020, at 1:41 PM, Brian Valente < bvalente@...> wrote:
Bill
as I mentioned before, generally the problems we see with things seizing up are with the needle bearings
You can of course inspect the worm for dirt or grease build up.?
if it's there, you can wipe it down with WD40 or alcohol and relube with a teflon grease/superlube/arctic lube (we do not recommend lithium grease)
rotate the worm gear so the grease is spread through the grooves
Hi Bill,
Absolutely use any common solvent to remove all old lube, alcohol is a good final rinse but letting the work rest or if you have shop air is just as good to evaporate the solvent. Relube using SuperLube with Syncolon (Teflon) NOT the silicone stuff, you can't get rid of that stuff! Order it from Amazon and like magic is arrives in a day or two!
Use enough but not too much, if it is blobbing up that is too much. It is better to remove and reapply fresh grease when it gets contaminated and having done it will make it easy the second time. I do this every two years or sooner if I have been out in the desert a lot and give the mounts a through once over checking for loose screws and things gone askew and setting them right.??
It's like changing your vehicle's oil, easy once familar with the job. Keep us posted!
 ?Bill Tschumy
Group,
I have been having problems on my 10 year old GM8 with periodic jerkiness when centering while viewing through the eyepiece and with RA motor lag messages. Brian suggested that after 10 years it was time to clean and lube the mount.
I took it apart and cleaned and lubed the needle bearings as Scott showed in the YouTube video. That seemed to go well and the bottom needle bearing on the RA axis did seem stiff or possibly even frozen.
I was wondering if the worm and worm gear needs to be cleaned and lubed at this time. That was not shown in the video and it seem like getting into the worm gear is somewhat involved. Is this also something I should tackle, and if so how do you do it?
Bill
--
Bill Tschumy
Otherwise -- Longmont, CO
--?
Chip Louie Chief Daydreamer Imagination Hardware?
? ?Astropheric Weather Forecast - South Pasadena, CA?
--?Brian?
Brian Valente portfolio?
--? Bill Tschumy Otherwise -- Longmont, CO
-- Brian?
Brian Valente portfolio
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Re: Suggestion for idiot proofing close-to-mount slews
I feel you Anthony
I am hoping the video series we are working to complete (and will shortly include how to set limits) will help this tremendously.?
We try to talk about why things are important, and I'll make note to mention changing telescopes should also merit checking the limits as well
Sonny-
I think I have the RA extension, but even my 80mm refractor would bump the pier in certain Decs.
Brian
I am well aware that this is an issue of my own shortcomings.
I do know how to set the limits correctly. The first time I didn't know that my new scope exceeded the limits yet, and the second time I set them and then adjusted balance for a new autofocuser on my 10" Newt, and then forgot to reset.
Like I said, for idiot proofing, or at least increasing idiot resistance!
-- Brian?
Brian Valente portfolio
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Re: How to restore operation after safety limit is reached?
>>>
?But I did not like the fact that you could not abort a sequence or modify targets and other info while running. Also when the guiding goes off due to bad seeing, clouds or other issues, NINA just keeps collecting bad data.
it's interesting you mention that because that is a feature of SGP (aborting sequence, modifying targets while running) and i've found it quite handy lately :) ?
Russ,?
The extension should allow greater clearance between your scope and the mount, and meridian flips would not be affected. If anything you should be able to widen your safety limits a tad after checking balance and seeing where collision points might occur.
I tried NINA for a few nights and the flips worked fine, and I liked the super fast platesolving with ASTAP. But I did not like the fact that you could not abort a sequence or modify targets and other info while running. Also when the guiding goes off due to bad seeing, clouds or other issues, NINA just keeps collecting bad data. Last I heard they were working on these issues and more updates were pending. Clear skies are a precious commodity for me so fiddling with a unfinished app is just not for me. But it's free and they are improving as it goes, so I might try it again next year. But I am so used to all the features in Sequence Generator Pro, changing to something else...¡
-- Brian?
Brian Valente portfolio
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Re: OK, Basic Question about ZWO ASI290MM guide camera....
>>>
The latest versions of PHD2 should automatically be detecting the pixel size in your guide camera.
yes IF the camera is connected
The latest versions of PHD2 should automatically be detecting the pixel size in your guide camera. But it still needs you to enter the focal length of the scope it is attached to determine arcsec/pixel to know how much to move the mount. It is critical to remember to change this value when switching guide scopes, or have the FL of each scope entered under a separate PHD2 profile.?
-- Brian?
Brian Valente portfolio
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Re: How to restore operation after safety limit is reached?
Russ,?
The extension should allow greater clearance between your scope and the mount, and meridian flips would not be affected. If anything you should be able to widen your safety limits a tad after checking balance and seeing where collision points might occur.
I tried NINA for a few nights and the flips worked fine, and I liked the super fast platesolving with ASTAP. But I did not like the fact that you could not abort a sequence or modify targets and other info while running. Also when the guiding goes off due to bad seeing, clouds or other issues, NINA just keeps collecting bad data. Last I heard they were working on these issues and more updates were pending. Clear skies are a precious commodity for me so fiddling with a unfinished app is just not for me. But it's free and they are improving as it goes, so I might try it again next year. But I am so used to all the features in Sequence Generator Pro, changing to something else...¡
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Re: OK, Basic Question about ZWO ASI290MM guide camera....
The latest versions of PHD2 should automatically be detecting the pixel size in your guide camera. But it still needs you to enter the focal length of the scope it is attached to determine arcsec/pixel to know how much to move the mount. It is critical to remember to change this value when switching guide scopes, or have the FL of each scope entered under a separate PHD2 profile.?
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Re: OK, Basic Question about ZWO ASI290MM guide camera....
Oh, and Michael, yep, bolted down tight and solid.
And the wiring is loomed, and quite solid. I also got my new USB 3 cable today. So I was remodeling the old and installing the new. But I didn't get my spiral wrap finished.
I'll get you a brand new picture tomorrow. Right now it's dark and the rig is imaging.
But, Oo-La-La the stars are super tiny in the main image, so I think I improved the guiding considerably.
I'm doing an image of the Flaming Star Nebula to compare to a previous one.
But yep, all is tight and secure. Thanks for the reminder, I did take heed and checked everything. ;^)
--
SonnyE
(I suggest viewed in full screen)
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Re: NINA Controlling Losmandy G11. Coordinate are not the same. Why?
hi pcboreland
i think you may have confused things? Here is from the Gemini Telescope.net manual, talking about the J2000 OPTION (not default):
Gemini Expects J2000 Coordinates ¨C?
By default Gemini expects epoch of the day (so called JNow) coordinates to be provided as a GoTo destination. Most planetarium software does send JNow coordinates, but if yours can only send J2000 then you need to set this parameter. This setting only affects coordinates sent to Gemini, all coordinates sent out by Gemini are JNow.
By default, Gemini assumes that any coordinates you enter are for the epoch of the
current date.?
in other words, Gemini's default is JNOW.?
you switched it to JNOW, and now it's working as expected, which sounds all correct to me
Regarding meridian flip, lots of people have issues first setting it up, particularly with NINA (i don't know exactly what that is, defaults in NINA? it's free so the first package they use? dunno). It can be complicated and the flip not coordinated in the way people may think between the software and the mount (any mount really). it requires you to understand and set the values correctly.
I suspect you may need to set your limits and western goto, here's the description of how they work and how to set them.
One thing that's important to note is your telescope/mount setup has to be able to reach the intended target from both sides of the meridian. If the limits you set (or don't set) tell Gemini that target is not reachable, it will not do the flip?
I know it's easy to blame software or the mount, but Gemini has been running fine for many years, many people including myself don't have any issues including sending goto, meridian flips, etc. I think Paul Kanevsky has done exceptional work in having the ascom driver be one of the most stable available today.
hang in there, I think you'll get your settings correct and i predict all will be working
Brian
[Edited Message Follows]
Just to be clear. NINA was sending co-ordinate information to Gemini in J2000 format. Its failed to understand it correctly. Similarly other programs like Cartes de Ciel also had a similar error. I had selected in Gemini the J2000 format. When I deselected J2000 in Gemini, NINA defaulted to JNOW and things appeared to work OK. The fault seems to lie with Gemini. It has I think some serious problems. Right now I'm can not get it to do a meridian flip correctly. Either with NINA or using? the Gemini Telescope Application. It simply does not work. This is most surprising as I had mush respect for the brand but not so much now. Interesting there are no Losmandy videos on this subject which may speak to the issue. I wonder if their software is perhaps in the hands of a third party.
-- Brian?
Brian Valente portfolio
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Re: OK, Basic Question about ZWO ASI290MM guide camera....
Whew!
Thanks Brian and Michael!
I guessed it was the 162 mm during the wizard run. But it stumped me for a bit.
Then I came to the conclusion it must be the Guide Scopes FL. (162mm)
Focusing was fun. Since it's a slip-fit. But I got there. Nice details and sharp stars.
I was pleased that since the guide scope wasn't moved or dismounted, the ASI290 was surprisingly nearly dead on. Only some very minor adjustments with the Losmandy Guide mounting Piggy backed on my main telescope.
And awwwaaayy we gooooo....
--
SonnyE
(I suggest viewed in full screen)
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Re: NINA Controlling Losmandy G11. Coordinate are not the same. Why?
Just to be clear. NINA was sending co-ordinate information to Gemini in J2000 format. Its failed to understand it correctly. Similarly other programs like Cartes de Ciel also had a similar error. I had selected in Gemini the J2000 format. When I deselected J2000 in Gemini, NINA defaulted to JNOW and things appeared to work OK. The fault seems to lie with Gemini. It has I think some serious problems. Right now I'm can not get it to do a meridian flip correctly. Either with NINA or using? the Gemini Telescope Application. It simply does not work. This is most surprising as I had much respect for the brand but not so much now. Interesting there are no Losmandy videos on this subject which may speak to the issue. I wonder if their software is perhaps in the hands of a third party.?
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Tom, that would be nice. I'll contact you Friday if that's ok. Thank you.
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Re: Suggestion for idiot proofing close-to-mount slews
Sonny-
I think I have the RA extension, but even my 80mm refractor would bump the pier in certain Decs.
Brian
I am well aware that this is an issue of my own shortcomings.
I do know how to set the limits correctly. The first time I didn't know that my new scope exceeded the limits yet, and the second time I set them and then adjusted balance for a new autofocuser on my 10" Newt, and then forgot to reset.
Like I said, for idiot proofing, or at least increasing idiot resistance!
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Re: Cleaning and lubing the worm and worm gear
So, just to be clear, you don¡¯t recommend disassembling the head so the worm gears are fully exposed for a more thorough cleaning? ?Just paint a little degreaser on the gear and clean it off as best you can? ?Then follow with adding some lube? ?Run the motor to a new location and repeat?
Are there instruction anywhere for how to get into this thing, or am I asking for trouble?
Bill On Dec 3, 2020, at 1:41 PM, Brian Valente < bvalente@...> wrote:
Bill
as I mentioned before, generally the problems we see with things seizing up are with the needle bearings
You can of course inspect the worm for dirt or grease build up.?
if it's there, you can wipe it down with WD40 or alcohol and relube with a teflon grease/superlube/arctic lube (we do not recommend lithium grease)
rotate the worm gear so the grease is spread through the grooves
Hi Bill,
Absolutely use any common solvent to remove all old lube, alcohol is a good final rinse but letting the work rest or if you have shop air is just as good to evaporate the solvent. Relube using SuperLube with Syncolon (Teflon) NOT the silicone stuff, you can't get rid of that stuff! Order it from Amazon and like magic is arrives in a day or two!
Use enough but not too much, if it is blobbing up that is too much. It is better to remove and reapply fresh grease when it gets contaminated and having done it will make it easy the second time. I do this every two years or sooner if I have been out in the desert a lot and give the mounts a through once over checking for loose screws and things gone askew and setting them right.??
It's like changing your vehicle's oil, easy once familar with the job. Keep us posted!
?Bill Tschumy
Group,
I have been having problems on my 10 year old GM8 with periodic jerkiness when centering while viewing through the eyepiece and with RA motor lag messages. Brian suggested that after 10 years it was time to clean and lube the mount.
I took it apart and cleaned and lubed the needle bearings as Scott showed in the YouTube video. That seemed to go well and the bottom needle bearing on the RA axis did seem stiff or possibly even frozen.
I was wondering if the worm and worm gear needs to be cleaned and lubed at this time. That was not shown in the video and it seem like getting into the worm gear is somewhat involved. Is this also something I should tackle, and if so how do you do it?
Bill
--
Bill Tschumy
Otherwise -- Longmont, CO
--?
Chip Louie Chief Daydreamer Imagination Hardware?
? ?Astropheric Weather Forecast - South Pasadena, CA?
--?Brian?
Brian Valente portfolio?
--? Bill Tschumy Otherwise -- Longmont, CO
|
Re: OK, Basic Question about ZWO ASI290MM guide camera....
Yes...PHD2 is looking for the FL of the scope that the autoguider camera is looking through. So that will be the FL of the "piggyback" telescope that you are using for autoguiding.??
(And if you were to use a 2X barlow, then double the scope FL entry in PHD2.)
Then...see how it goes.
Be sure to really bolt down the autoguide camera, and it's piggyback scope to your main imaging scope.? And tie your cables in such a way that they won't snag and tug on the sutoguide camera.? ?Any wiggle there will also wiggle your main camera image.
Sorry, but I'm not afraid to ask a stupid question.
So I got my new ASI 290 MM Mini guide camera this morning.
In setting up PHD2 it asked for focal length. So is that the focal length of my ? It's 50mm Dia. X 162 mm Focal Length.
Because I haven't been able to find anything on the 290 relating to Focal Length of the camera.
So I put 162 in the Focal Length box when setting up PHD2 for this new camera.
Sound good?
I'm already looking forward to tonight with baited breath.?
Amoungst other things, I'm hoping to reduce my imaged star sizes with tighter guiding. Fingers crossed.
(After Focusing and Centering... )
--
SonnyE
(I suggest viewed in full screen)
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Bill Tschumy
Mearl Balmer
Kent Blackwell
Michael Herman