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That's because you are using it backward JK!

But I really do use mine oriented the other way with knobs are on the left side while looking north. I have no need for the level any more because I figured out a long time ago that if you level the mount well and then mark the mount RA and DEC axis position with the counterweight shaft plumb and the DEC axis parallel to the north celestial pole you never have to do it again while setting up. All you need to do is level the mount and set the RA and DEC to your previous marks and you are GTG. This is a time saver for setup and it also ensures that the Gemini controller has the correct starting position during power up and can more easily hit the first bright star for alignment making sky modeling a lot easier and faster.?

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Chip Louie Chief Daydreamer Imagination Hardware?

? ?Astropheric Weather Forecast - South Pasadena, CA?

Hey Brian, I am interested in the spring loaded worm mod for the G11. I called in and asked about the tucked in motor mod, as well. There is a significant lead time for the tucked in motor upgrade. I was wondering if the spring loaded worm mod needs any fabrication, or can I just bolt it on and go. Also, if I can and choose to have the have the tucked in motor modification latter, will that be an issue? Is there any particular order to these changes that are optimal?

One more thing, I can do the spring loaded worm mod to both axis?

Thanks and take care,

James

Hi dave

?when you boot your Gemini you usually set tracking mode. Lets say “solar” is selected. So on boot the system should immediately start driving at Solar rate! ?

When you slew to a target let’s say the sun. ?After the goto is complete, the system should already be moving at Solar rate.?

So when you said?
“滨?press the right RA button to begin Solar tracking,....”

It should already be tracking! ??

If you press another directional HC button this should not stop tracking. I ask are there any error messages?

Get back on this. ?Sounds like you have a drive problem. I also ask what version firmware is your Gemini?

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Brendan

Paul, I like your design.? A single stop bold would crush the level vile should the dovetail rail slip.? I have written Losmandy suggesting an optional bar be produced and sold.

Henk,

You seem very closed to a reliable, safe solution to avoid repeating a future user error you have already experienced.

A)? I've seen more than one damaged extruded Vixen fin type dovetail in the field. They crack along the base and if you continue to use them the crack migrates along the base until it separates, it happens. I had an Orion extruded Vixen do this to me on my old ES ED127 apo. I have also seen the same problem with an orange Celestron one on an 8" SCT and an Orion extruded fin type Vixen dovetail on a 7" Mak which is why I dumped them many years ago and pay the cost of good dovetails. The failed Vixen dovetail was included in a used scope purchase but I don't think it was abused as the scope was pristine.?

B)? It is basically impossible to misload a solid base Vixen dovetail into a Losmandy DV saddle. The saddle base is the same height as the moving saddle clamp preventing any misalignment of the dovetail in the saddle once seated. If you don't believe me buy a Losmandy or ADM Vixen style dovetail and try it.

C)? If you insist on using these poorly made cast rings with poorly made extruded dovetails you will always have a lot of cone error, plain and simple. Chances are good that once you switch to good quality CNC rings and a Losmandy Vixen dovetail your cone error will be small enough you will not need to make any mechanical adjustments for cone error. But if for some reason you have some cone error that you feel you must adjust for it is easy to shim the rings on the dovetail. I no longer use inexpensive cast scope rings or extruded dovetails and have found I no longer have significant cone error, a hidden benefit of using good quality parts but mostly lost on those using electronics that model the sky. With a Gemini controller cone error is a non-issue once you build a sky model and for imaging plate solving makes cone error irrelevant. I also have a Losmandy GM8G mount I enjoy using with a balanced tube and loose slip clutches in PUSH-TO mode with the Astro Devices 310K tic encoders and WiFi enabled Nexus DSC and any cone error is modeled out and a non-issue.?

D)? Why did you spend the extra money to buy a Losmandy mount? After all it is not necessary to pay all that extra money when Celestron sells a MUCH lower cost mount that can carry your small payload. But seriously, you bought a premium $3,400 mount and are trying to save $50? Really??

E) It is not your choice of mounts that is forcing you to buy a new dovetail it was your poor choice of dovetails that caused it. Nobody is forcing you to buy superior quality dovetails. Don't switch and if and when you drop a scope or have a big scare you'll be kicking yourself over trying to save $50 and I'll be the first to say I told you so. You are right, there is an easy fix for poorly made inexpensive dovetails but it doesn't include redesigning the well designed and long proven Losmandy saddles.?

Ah, so did you sell the bad dovetail or the G11 mount?? ?

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Chip Louie Chief Daydreamer Imagination Hardware?

? ?Astropheric Weather Forecast - South Pasadena, CA?

After slewing to an object I press the right RA button to begin Solar tracking, but if I then touch another button to correct the view the tracking stops, is there a way to have the mount continue tracking when adjusting. Gemini 1 on a G11.? Thanks

Did the same thing on my G11 the other day after a slip that nearly cost me a new telescope.

Hi Paul,

Welcome!

All Losmandy dovetails are supplied with stopper knobs that are used in that middle threaded hole you see in your photo. Most better quality dovetails include these stopper knobs.?

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Chip Louie Chief Daydreamer Imagination Hardware?

? ?Astropheric Weather Forecast - South Pasadena, CA?

I have Gemini controllers on my Losmandy mounts but AFAIK the ASIAIR PRO will support the PMC-Eight using the indi library. All you need is a good USB to RS232 converter cable with a legitimate converter chip in it like this one from ?and a cable to reach the PMC controller box serial port.??

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Chip Louie Chief Daydreamer Imagination Hardware?

? ?Astropheric Weather Forecast - South Pasadena, CA?

Hi all:

I’m new in this forum.
I am an owner of G11GT and vintage AP 130 EDT with Atik 314L ccd camera. One morning after pulling in all night, in my sleepy head with no memory I unscrewed two holding knobs at saddle, my scope nearly slipped completely off the saddle. This woke me up enough to come up with a mechanical stop design which I like to share with you.

Basically, it’s 1X1/4X2-1/2 inch aluminum held down with 2-5/16 stainless steel button screws and 2-stainless steel washers that can be had from local hardware store for few dollars and be done with basic metalworking tools. Took me less than an hour to the job. See attached photo of completed mechanical stop.

Hope you enjoy this.

Paul

?

This is why Losmandy dovetails are the best choice, solid bar stock machined correctly with no weak open bottom and proper support in the saddle during clamping. There can be no?metal fatigue leading to weak clamping and no?misalignment in the saddle if you use a solid bar dovetail.The photo below shows a Losmandy double clamp D/V saddle with a Vixen dovetail made by Losmandy. Note the solid bar dovetail base is supporting the dovetail in the saddle properly aligning it for clamping. This is the way these parts are designed to work and why extruded Vixen size dovetails with long fins are inferior.?

a) Your comments about the weakness of my Vixen dovetail are highly exaggerated.? You can't just bend a 12" long dovetail by turning a screw manually.? The quality of my dovetail is perfectly fine for my 14 lbs. scope.
b) I can probably get that Losmandy dovetail in the same bad position.
c) How can I use the Losmandy dovetail to correct cone error?? My Vixen dovetail has very useful setting screws in the cavity for that.
d) Why would I spend the money and trouble on buying something that should not be necessary?
e) Why is it that my choice of mount should force me to buy a new dovetail?? While there is an easy fix as I pointed out?

The problem can be easily fixed as I described, not that I need it anymore.

This is why Losmandy dovetails are the best choice, solid bar stock machined correctly with no weak open bottom and proper support in the saddle during clamping. There can be no?metal fatigue leading to weak clamping and no?misalignment in the saddle if you use a solid bar dovetail.

The photo below shows a Losmandy double clamp D/V saddle with a Vixen dovetail made by Losmandy. Note the solid bar dovetail base is supporting the dovetail in the saddle properly aligning it for clamping. This is the way these parts are designed to work and why extruded Vixen size dovetails with long fins are inferior.?



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Chip Louie Chief Daydreamer Imagination Hardware?

? ?Astropheric Weather Forecast - South Pasadena, CA?

Yes, anyone out there using a ZWO ASIair pro with explore-Scientific PMC 8 electronics on the-G11 yet, how to hook it up?

My advice remains to unload any and all substandard dovetails of the extruded or cast fin design and get solid base dovetails from Losmandy or ADM. I only recommend using the best hardware to avoid the issues of extruded dovetail Vixen or CGE when used in dual D/V saddles. The problem is the extruded dovetails lack a flat base to support the dovetail on the saddle base during insertion which allows exactly what happened to you to happen. It is not the saddle's job to accommodate every odd dovetail out there, a saddle's job is only to securely clamp an in spec dovetail to the mount. The Losmandy dual D/V saddles on my G11 and GM8 fit and work perfectly with my Losmandy Vixen and Losmandy "D" dovetails. I assure you this failure was caused by a combination of operator error and substandard dovetail design. If you had a Losmandy, ADM or any in spec solid bar dovetail this cannot happen in a Losmandy D/V saddle, it is impossible.?

So while you can't control everything you can reduce your chances of losing a scope by dumping these poor fitting dovetails and avoiding a catastrophic failure caused by incorrect design. This is an easy bullet to dodge, why not dodge it??
?
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Chip Louie Chief Daydreamer Imagination Hardware?

? ?Astropheric Weather Forecast - South Pasadena, CA?

Hi Henk & all,

?

Some input about these plates - this is not exactly what Henk was asking about (we have a separate discussion going) but it's helpful context:

?

I spent some time with Scott looking at vixen plates and talking about his experiences over the years.

?

The Losmandy saddle plate is precision machined to be in spec with the vixen dovetail spec, which includes the angle being 15 degrees on each side. If the dovetail is in spec and the saddle plate is used correctly, it will be secure.?

?

With the extruded, non-solid vixen dovetails (i.e., the "fin" style), over time as they are tightened, they get compressed and lose their angle. essentially the fins are getting pinched and slowly pushed in over time and lose their angle. It's not about the quality of the plate, it's about that non-solid design.?

?

I think if these slipping plates are measured, they will probably show they no longer have the 15 degree?

?

I think Paul and CHip's recommendation is a good one: these plates are not really good long term, and worse, they will only get more problematic the more you use them.?

?

Highly recommend switching to a solid dovetail (Losmandy has them, but really any brand) to avoid this

?

Thanks for reaching out Brian,

It may be true that the angle requirements of the Vixen spec are met but there are probably more than one ways to make that happen.? I am OK now that I am warned but have the feeling that others with Vixen mounts may have this happen to them too.? To be clear, here are some photos so we all know what the problem is.

The top part of this picture shows my saddle at the top as it is.? At the bottom is a configuration that would be safer IMHO because it has a larger base to place the OTA down on before tightening the screws.



This would make it much less likely that this would happen:



Stupid, I know.? But in the dark while setting up with a red headlight, the saddle being slid back further down than in this picture, it is hard to see and it can happen.? And it actually feels stable when grabbing it by the handle.? But it won't last.

This is just a suggestion for improvement.? It may help prevent accidents.? Now that I am warned I don't need it personally.? I looked at ADM and their saddles look the same as mine so maybe it's just me.? Enough said.

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I ordered 2 new ones from Losmandy.? They confirmed that they do use metal rivets in them now.? I may try to repair the broken one as you suggest Michael.

Russ

Yes of course it is possible many of us have done this and it works great!? Scott even gives the mount the once over, tune up and a lube job while in the shop. Call and ask, all you have to do is call and set the order up, send the mount in to Losmandy and Losmandy returns the updated tuned mount back to you. The process is totally painless except for the one issue of cost. But that will fade once you have it under the stars and it is working to produce great images and memories.?

The prices used to be on the web site but I don't know if they are still correct. Just give Tanya a ring up for current pricing and get setup in the queue.?

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Chip Louie Chief Daydreamer Imagination Hardware?

? ?Astropheric Weather Forecast - South Pasadena, CA?

Henk, Dump that junk dovetail and buy a solid dovetail from ADM or Losmandy. It is not the fact that it's a Vixen size dovetail so much as it is a poorly made and possibly out of spec dovetail. The dovetails walls must be the correct angle and make full contact with the saddle and clamps. The reason to never use an extrusions this way is that they flex and adding more tension just adds spring pressure to the dovetail and eventually the dovetail will fail or slip when the material doesn't recover dimensionally.? ?

No once clamped properly (as I check and double-check religiously), the OTA is rock solid.? The triangular shape holds it in the base just fine.? You are making a problem where there is none while I agree that if the dovetail is crap, you are right.? This one is not.? Keep in mind the Mak-Newt is only 14 lbs., it's not a 14" SCT so no Losmandy dovetail is needed.

Henk,

?

Looking closer at your picture of the dovetail I cannot see a thumbscrew or similar to prevent the dovetail from sliding out completely.

?

This is not the case with the Losmandy made dovetails, and frankly without one you are inviting trouble.

?

Replacing it with a safer dovetail design would not only provide more stability but safety.