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I run Orion’s 8" f/3.9 astrograph on a tripod-mounted G11, with the Orion rings and an 11” Losmandy dovetail plate. The camera is an STF8300, around 5 lb all-up IIRC. ?I’ve been happy with it and haven’t had any stability issues. ?The tube should be rotated so that the focuser is parallel to the dec axis, in order to properly balance the rig when there’s a camera hanging off the focuser. ?You will need a coma corrector. ?

Hi Jim,

I have the 10" f3.9 astrograph, the bigger brother of the 8.? The 8" OTA weight with the supplied rings and a finder is close to 20 lbs. I can only tell you what I had to do to make the 10 a solid imaging platform. First, I mounted it on a pier, replaced the focuser with a motorized one. I needed better rings and got the Parallax rings. Adding a camera, guide scope, guide camera, dovetail added close to 10 lbs.?

When I owned a G8 and a 6" F5.9 Newt a few years ago it was just usable for imaging under good conditions and any breeze bumped the Newt around.?
?
Tom

Thanks Tom - I will be using it for imaging with my ASI2600MC Pro.? What imaging issues or concerns do you have with the scope??

EDIT - I may replace the focuser if I get the scope.

For the record I own the 10" version on a G11 on a fixed pier and I rarely have to re-collimate it. My images are tack sharp when well focused.

If you plan visual use I think the 8" with the supplied rings and focuser should work ok.

FYI, for astro-imaging I would say it will be, at best, marginal. I can go into detail on that if necessary.

Tom

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I am considering getting the Orion 8" f/4 scope?? Is this scope a little long for the GM811G mount?? Are there any issues I should know?? Thx

Thanks Michael. I’ll be giving it a go with the Air once I’ve got the cable made up and some clear sky!

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Thanks for the replies. With the AVX I had to do an align in the mount before connecting the Air.?

from the responses, it sounds like this is not necessary with Gemini. I’ll hopefully have the serial cable made up in the next couple of days (waiting for parts!) then I’ll update on my progress and see what works.

Thanks again

>>>So does the mount have to have a model in before using the ASIAir, achieved by warm starting? If you cold started, as I have to set up each night, would I have to get a mount model made before connecting the air? Or, would any previous model work, hence the warm start?

No. I think there's some confusion about exactly what the model is and does, and how it relates to programs that plate solve

If you are using an imaging application that provides plate solving, you don't need a model at all. you can cold start every night and the pointing will be as good as your plate solver (mine is set to center targets within 50 pixels and usually achieves this within 2-3 solves).?

The first plate solve after cold start may go to a blind solve, which isn't unusual. After that the plate solve should work quickly and easily. A lot of people mistakenly see the first plate solve fail and failover to the blind and think it isn't working correctly.

Brian



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If you are having to set up your mount each night, then I wouldn't bother with building a model. ?

So does the mount have to have a model in before using the ASIAir, achieved by warm starting? If you cold started, as I have to set up each night, would I have to get a mount model made before connecting the air? Or, would any previous model work, hence the warm start?

I’ve just moved from an AVX to a GM-8 with Gemini 1, so am still very much feeling my way around. I’m currently making up a serial to RJ22 lead to connect the Air to the mount

Hi John,

Also make note of the worm material color. The original worms were silver that oxidized to a brownish color and they were fine for visual use but not great for imaging. The later HP (High Precision) worms are made of a different material that looks obviously brass in color. They are much better worms, smoother and were held to a closer tolerance. The HP worms make a big difference.?

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Chip Louie - Chief Daydreamer Imagination Hardware

Les, Brian,

I used to eyeball it but that gave me sort of inconsistent results, stacks on stacks as it were. I was already guesstimating the position to position the reticle based on the constellation lines and positions and by adding yet another layer of estimation I think caused me to get too far from the correct position. It would work mostly but when it didn't I sort of struggled with GOTO accuracy.

My reticles were fine but old and I got tired of guessing and finding that I was a poor guesser. So I updated them and problem solved.?

Oh, the updated reticles are still available from Hutech Astro down in the OC> Look at the link: .? ? ?

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Chip Louie - Chief Daydreamer Imagination Hardware

Brian,?

We have more common experiences than is allowed here. I just left them in the mounts NOT because I'm lazy but mostly due to inertia. Because - a) they don't get in the way, b) by leaving them there I won't lose them, c) I would need to find the caps, d) I would need to sell or store them and they seemed to be stored just fine already, e) the thought that it may be handy if the lappy fails, I forget the cable etc. See, not lazy!?

But as it turned out, being a frequent visual observer made me realize what a good tool it is to have on hand. I mean I can't forget it, it's already in the mount, takes up no space and has a very useful function when using the Gemini or the Nexus DSC but not using the laptop or imaging.??

But seriously though I just think it is funny that we so frequently come to such similar conclusions about Losmandy things.??

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Chip Louie - Chief Daydreamer Imagination Hardware

The ?stars are gradually moving in one direction. Have a Feathertouch focuser that I lock down after focus. I always retighten Alt and Az after Sharp Cap polar align and check for any changes. I'm going to focus on the RA worm gear and check things again tonight. thanks for all you help!

Thanks Michael,

I'll swap the RA and Dec Motors and see what happens as I mentioned the RA worm gear is questionable. Thanks!