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Date

Re: motor cable

 

Losmandy informed me that the G11 motor cable is wired "reverse."? I bought a 6pin phone cable wired "straight" thru (not reversed), and this cable works !
This is a G11 mount only, NOT Gemini.? Is it possible the motor cable configuration is different for Gemini, than for G11 NO Gemini ?
Very curious.? ?Thanks.
--
Dean


Re: Gemini Hand Controller Mount

 

Thanks everyone?


Re: DEC looseness

 

Hi Steve

Is this setup correctly? according to your settings your guider resolution is 30.5"/pixel?

the guide and debug logs would help here

On Wed, May 13, 2020 at 1:35 PM Steve Elmore via <gizmo_s67=[email protected]> wrote:
Brian,

Those were before I made any adjustments.? Here are the screen shots from after the adjustments and drift alignment.? Which numbers are the important ones?

Steve



--
Brian?



Brian Valente
portfolio


Re: DEC looseness

 

Brian,

Those were before I made any adjustments.? Here are the screen shots from after the adjustments and drift alignment.? Which numbers are the important ones?

Steve


Re: What's wrong with this mount? Help please .

 

Hello Friends,

I have a very light setup: TS 50/330 with flattener and Canon 1100D side by side with ASI min guider scope and ASI 120MM. It weights nothing. I have a shortened counterweight bar and a SW 0,8 kg counterweight. My mount is GM8 with Gemini 2 with high precision worm and hight torque motors. As I said before, a did a polar alignment with a polemaster and sharpcap. Guiding assistant showed PA error 0,7. Before making a phd calibration I removed any dec backlash pressing north for a few seconds. After that I did a calibration close to a meridain and equator crossing on the east side. My balance was biased towards the counterweight. 4 or 2 sec guiding capture time didnt make any difference. RA axis was going smooth and sudenly hills and mountains. I dont have any backlash. In fact I think that my worm and worm gear are to tight, and maybe thats an issue.I have just stripped the RA axis and try to clean it and regrease with superlube. Below is a picture of my Celestron CG5 mount tracking with the same scope on it. You can compare.


Re: Power GM8 Gemini 1

 

Hello, I have one of Michael Hermans voltage pumps and it works great. I would recommend it highly.
HAPPY SKIES Deric


Re: 2 questions for you: Guiding as the next Losmandy Zoom Meetup topic

 
Edited

On Sun, May 10, 2020 at 08:22 PM, Brian Valente wrote:
1. Not sure my results are good (or good enough).
2 .I'm running an OAG, does focal length change your rms in PHD??
Shooting with 335 & 1626 focal length. The rms seems to be better on the shorter f/l, but is it?

3. I hear that at 1.0 or less total RMS is good enough for astro photo.
? ?Is that true?

Some one in the forum said that loosening up on the dec and ra clutch knobs helped tracking.
I tried it and it seemed to help but I haven't tracked enough to say for sure or if I want it to be.
My tracking on dec was a lot better than ra but after loosening up, ra is better then dec. Did I go to loose on dec?
It almost seems there is two settings on the clutch knobs. One for visual ( tighter) to stop pushing on the mount through the eye piece. And another for photo to (lighter) help with tracking.??

When I had the motor off, I would turn the gears like you were adjusting the worm gear with the scope and everything on the mount, to check the balance.?
The mount would jerk if the weight was to light.
4. Does balance affect tracking, east and change when tracking west very much?


Re: What's wrong with this mount? Help please .

 

Hi Seb

there's really no way to tell with just a screen shot, there are way too many variables in there

I suggest you do a baseline guiding, as outlined in this guide:?

that eliminates the easiest problems when it comes to?

and then if you still have issues, the PHD forums are probably a better place to share the baseline guiding and get feedback

(i'm a regular over there so I will look at it there as well)

if we determine there's something going on with the mount, we can take it from there, but i already see there are a number of PHD settings that would contribute to less than ideal guiding



On Wed, May 13, 2020 at 1:11 AM Sebastian Kotulski <sebkotulski@...> wrote:
Hello,
below is a screenshot of phd I did last night. Every night tracking looks the same. I do polar alignment with polemaster, mount is perfectly balanced in RA and DEC, do a calibration where I should do, than run a guiding assistant and look at this. My old cheap celestron mount tracks better than this. My setup weights nothing. I use a SW 0,8 kg counterweight. Every frame has got bad stars.

Seb



--
Brian?



Brian Valente
portfolio


Re: What's wrong with this mount? Help please .

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Hi!

Where in the sky was the star? Where was the mount pointed? I've had some odd behavior lately trying to image a variable star very close to zenit, with the mount far to the east of pier. Trying to diagnose that a bit - so was thinking if your case maybe was similar? Good guiding at some parts of the sky, and then other things happens in other directions?

Best,

Magnus


Den 2020-05-13 kl. 18:19, skrev Arun Hegde:

[Edited Message Follows]

Looking at that graph... it seems like you have acceptable or even good guiding in DEC (other than the parts where you are dithering, which is expected). The big issue I see is in RA. Even there, for the most part you have good guiding, then "something" happens and you're seeing PHD2 trying to correct. It is impossible for PHD2 to correct these type of one time events. Some things to look would be looseness in the clutches, perhaps combined with cable drag. The other thing I noticed was that you have a guiding capture time of 4 seconds; you may want to reduce that a bit to 2 or 2.5 seconds, so that whatever corrections PHD2 sends are implemented quicker, and a motion of the star is detected a bit quicker - this is probably a secondary issue with diagnosing what's causing the? jumps in RA being the primary.

Providing a photo of your set up and more details might also be helpful. The mechanics of the mount are only one part of getting good guiding!


Re: What's wrong with this mount? Help please .

Arun Hegde
 
Edited

Looking at that graph... it seems like you have acceptable or even good guiding in DEC (other than the parts where you are dithering, which is expected). The big issue I see is in RA. Even there, for the most part you have good guiding, then "something" happens and you're seeing PHD2 trying to correct. It is impossible for PHD2 to correct these type of one time events. Some things to look would be looseness in the clutches, perhaps combined with cable drag. The other thing I noticed was that you have a guiding capture time of 4 seconds; you may want to reduce that a bit to 2 or 2.5 seconds, so that whatever corrections PHD2 sends are implemented quicker, and a motion of the star is detected a bit quicker - this is probably a secondary issue with diagnosing what's causing the? jumps in RA being the primary.

Providing a photo of your set up and more details might also be helpful. The mechanics of the mount are only one part of getting good guiding!


Re: GM8 v. G11 492 EPROM Hurst Motors and Gearboxes

 

Thanks, everybody......

So, anybody can confirm what the three blue dots mean on an EPROM?

Alex


Re: Power GM8 Gemini 1

 

Hi Guy,

Good question.? Here are some ideas:

The Gemini1 is rated input from 12 to 18 volts.? All good engineers allow for some leeway, or "guardband"? on their specs, but I would not apply a DC input that I knew was spec at 18.5V output... that is also likely to be putting out more to fulfill it's guardband!, maybe 19V or more.

So don't get any power supply rated over 18V...and if you get one rated 18V, you should measure it to be sure.

I do use 5 amp rated output power units (12 volts output, boosted later to 17 volts).? So those are 60 watts DC rated units.? I have had one go bad, out of maybe a dozen or more I've purchased.?

?The mount and Gemini together, if well balanced, should only need at most 2 amps under a fast Slew to Target, or Park to CWD.? The extra current rating is just to be sure the unit you buy is not "under engineered." While tracking at Sidereal rate, my balanced mounts using Gemini1 and doing autoguiding use about 0.15 to 0.3 amp.??

Inside the Gemini1 is an LTC1576 chip circuit that reduces the 12-18 volts down to 5.1 volts to run the internal logic chips.? The various capacitors and diode components are not rated as high as the LTC chip, so it's another reason to avoid going over 18 volts input.??

The Gemini motors are DC so their torque is directly related to the DC voltage, and upping that to 17V will help increase the motor torque nearly 50% over 12V input.??

However your lags messages might not go away even with increased torque, if the root cause is a severe load imbalance, snagging camera or dew heater cable, or pinched worm gear.? You have to carefully look for the cause, and I think the easiest way is to have a current meter in your power supply... so see the next part of this message for how I do that.??

Also, the GM8 has a small ring gear, like ~3 inches diameter,? with 180 teeth.? The G11 has 360 teeth and a ring gear that's twice the diameter...so the G11 gets twice the torque just by its mechanical design.? Therefore the GM8 will be more sensitive to pinched worm gear, and mount imbalance, than a G11 would.??

-------

If you are interested:

I make up a voltage booster, polarity protected power?supply for Gemini1 and Gemini2 units.? It has a separate 12V DC input of any polarity.. tip plus or tip minus.? That's intended for field use if you want to use a battery and attach clips.? It boosts that 12 V input up and puts out a 17V (adjustable if you wish) output of always the right polarity for the Gemini.

The Gemini1 unit has the 4 pin DIN plug power cable, and the Gemini2 unit has the 5.5/2.1 mm male plug cable, tip positive.

The unit also provides both DC voltage out display, and DC current out display.? See attached pictures.??

The Volts and Amps displays are the key "dashboard" for the Gemini and the mount diagnostics.

The current display can help you diagnose why your Gemini is saying "lags".??

The Gemini is designed to protect your motors and itself from damage.? The lags messages or worse "stalled" messages are telling you something is wrong.??

So if the worm gets jammed by one of these causes:

?a particle of dirt in the ring gear teeth
?a high spot or defect on the ring gear or cylindrical needle bearing
?a misadjusted worm to ring gear gap
?a significant imbalance in your scope load (most likely)
?a camera/autoguider cable snag?

Then the current will go substantially up...you need a current meter to see that.??

While sidereal tracking for instance with scope East or West of the meridian, you can see the current drive difference, and know there is a balance issue.

An example: Recently, my well-balanced system started to misbehave.? It had become unbalanced: it turned out the scope's dovetail had gradually slid back in the tight saddle dovetail holder. (The C-14HD scope and 80mm guide scope, heavy FL reducer, and deep sky cameras and finder attachments weigh like 70 lbs, on a G11 mount). It's this kind of subtle unexpected mechanical changes that can happen, and you won't know until the "lags" messages help you know.??

Have fun, and contact me if interested in a pre-made power system for either Gemini.??

All the best,
Michael









On Wed, May 13, 2020, 5:18 AM George Pappayliou via <w3gp=[email protected]> wrote:
For portable use I run a gelcell through 12v-18v DC to DC converter for heavy loads. For lighter work 12v has worked fine.


Regards, George
------------------------------------
George S. Pappayliou


On May 13, 2020, at 8:14 AM, astroecliptico@... wrote:

?Greetings everyone,
I am looking for a more stable power supply for my Losmandy GM8 Gemini 1 level 4. I am tired of recurrent motor lags. A new high torque motor is on the way as a replacement for a defective one that was originally in ra. I have switched ra/dec motors and Confirmed motor lags were now present in dec. I presume unstable and low current to the motor may have induced the failure.
I am looking at notebook power supply devices and most of them are 19v. I found one 18.5v and 3 amps. Is that sufficiently close to 18v or could I fry the electronics? I have also found a 15v and 5 amps which provides quite some power but I might be a tiny bit too short on voltage. Which one should I buy? Thanks?
Guy


Re: Gemini Hand Controller Mount

 

Tim - there was just a long thread with a lot of people's approaches - take a look here




On Wed, May 13, 2020 at 4:50 AM Tim Kimbler via <tkimbler=[email protected]> wrote:
Folks did some searching looking for a hand controller mount. ? How do most folks mount the device? ??
--
Tim Kimbler



--
Brian?



Brian Valente
portfolio


Re: Gemini Hand Controller Mount

 

I printed this one off of Thingiverse () - if you don't have a 3d printer, Dr. Benway prints and sells on CloudyNights - works like a champ for me:??

Hope this helps..

Brian



On Wed, May 13, 2020 at 7:50 AM Tim Kimbler via <tkimbler=[email protected]> wrote:
Folks did some searching looking for a hand controller mount. ? How do most folks mount the device? ??
--
Tim Kimbler



--
Brian Tucker
WD4DX


Re: Power GM8 Gemini 1

George Pappayliou
 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

For portable use I run a gelcell through 12v-18v DC to DC converter for heavy loads. For lighter work 12v has worked fine.


Regards, George
------------------------------------
George S. Pappayliou


On May 13, 2020, at 8:14 AM, astroecliptico@... wrote:

?Greetings everyone,
I am looking for a more stable power supply for my Losmandy GM8 Gemini 1 level 4. I am tired of recurrent motor lags. A new high torque motor is on the way as a replacement for a defective one that was originally in ra. I have switched ra/dec motors and Confirmed motor lags were now present in dec. I presume unstable and low current to the motor may have induced the failure.
I am looking at notebook power supply devices and most of them are 19v. I found one 18.5v and 3 amps. Is that sufficiently close to 18v or could I fry the electronics? I have also found a 15v and 5 amps which provides quite some power but I might be a tiny bit too short on voltage. Which one should I buy? Thanks?
Guy


Power GM8 Gemini 1

 

Greetings everyone,
I am looking for a more stable power supply for my Losmandy GM8 Gemini 1 level 4. I am tired of recurrent motor lags. A new high torque motor is on the way as a replacement for a defective one that was originally in ra. I have switched ra/dec motors and Confirmed motor lags were now present in dec. I presume unstable and low current to the motor may have induced the failure.
I am looking at notebook power supply devices and most of them are 19v. I found one 18.5v and 3 amps. Is that sufficiently close to 18v or could I fry the electronics? I have also found a 15v and 5 amps which provides quite some power but I might be a tiny bit too short on voltage. Which one should I buy? Thanks?
Guy


Re: Gemini Hand Controller Mount

George Pappayliou
 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

I remove the two top screws of the hand controller and attach a 6¡± piece of thin insulated wire to form a loop Affixed by the screws. I then hang it off of a convenient knob on the mount. Wish I could claim originality here but that is what SB/Paramount does with their hand controller.


Regards, George
------------------------------------
George S. Pappayliou


On May 13, 2020, at 7:50 AM, Tim Kimbler via groups.io <tkimbler@...> wrote:

?Folks did some searching looking for a hand controller mount. ? How do most folks mount the device? ??
--
Tim Kimbler


Gemini Hand Controller Mount

 

Folks did some searching looking for a hand controller mount. ? How do most folks mount the device? ??
--
Tim Kimbler


What's wrong with this mount? Help please .

 

Hello,
below is a screenshot of phd I did last night. Every night tracking looks the same. I do polar alignment with polemaster, mount is perfectly balanced in RA and DEC, do a calibration where I should do, than run a guiding assistant and look at this. My old cheap celestron mount tracks better than this. My setup weights nothing. I use a SW 0,8 kg counterweight. Every frame has got bad stars.

Seb


Re: GM8 v. G11 492 EPROM Hurst Motors and Gearboxes

 

Don't forget that the GM8 and G11 Digital Drive in addition to the fused ROM you need to change the rock!
--

Chip Louie - Chief Daydreamer Imagination Hardware