On Sun, Sep 22, 2024 at 04:02 PM, George Cushing wrote:

Firstly, when sizing for a clearance fit there is close fit and free fit. Neither is 1/2". Close is 33/64" or.5156" (13.1mm). Free fit is 17/32" or .5312 (13.5mm).

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Secondly, the current flood of strain wave drive based telescope I pretty disturbing. Unless such a mount has high resolution encoders to take care of the period error that is exhibited by the entire length of the outer and inner splines of the drive reducers being made in China, etc., I can't see why anyone would obtain one expecting performance better than a well made worm gear reduction. I feel it shouldn't be encouraged. The justification that one can take 180-30 second images and use 100GB to stack and process them doesn't convince me otherwise.

George,

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I don't disagree with you, strain wave reduction drives have a lot of inherent native periodic error built into the mechanisms even strain wave drives not being mass produced as fast and as cheaply as possible.? But in all honesty as far as being implemented as a telescope mount they really have come a long way from where they started as bare reduction drives being adapted by people looking for something different 10 years ago.? I think these days most if not all of these mounts come with pre-mapped and pre-programed error correction on top of which you can lay external PEC and autoguiding and they can track pretty well.? Probably not as well as a similarly priced worm drive mount but not a lot worse I think.? People seem to like the light weight and simplicity of setup these mounts offer.? For a small objective optic and imaging train they seem to be a fair compromise these days as the requirements for guiding popular shorter focal length lower resolution imaging setups can be met by these mounts.? But like all of these commodity mounts good luck getting it fixed down the road.? ? ?

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in looking at the PE200 pier extension, there is a “silver head plate” at the bottom. I ssume this is removable so the extension sits flat on the MAL to MA adapter (with access to pier extension hole).

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On Mon, Sep 23, 2024 at 09:15 PM, nathantwong wrote:

Good choice. One thing, if you're using an ASIAIR then bypass the iPolar. It won't be needed. I have one and when I was strictly visual I used it all the time, but the moment I purchased an ASIAIR and used the mount for astrophotography I found that the polar alignment was different with the iPolar and with the ASIAIR and so the iPolar was never used. Just my recommendation.

Hi Nathan,

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I had been using a Polemaster since they first came out several years ago.? Over the years I bought other PA tools and cameras but the Polemaster always seemed to give me very good reliable repeatable results. I found that all of the different PA tools, cameras, extensions and apps give slightly different polar alignments when you compare them to each other. The real test is comparing them against a DEC drift alignment and see how far off they are.?

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Interestingly when I started using the ASIAIR and shortly after the ASIAIR All-Sky PA was added the ASIAIR gave me very good results. After testing and examining the images the All-Sky images were good enough to rely on for imaging. The All-Sky PA which never points at Polaris and has been working very well for me for a couple years now with the Losmand Gemini 2 powered mounts.

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I have seen several videos trying to demonstrate which of these is better but none of them are very good and all simply compared one against the other. I don't think this kind of testing proves much of anything other than they all provide slightly different results some better some worse.?

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But for me having round stars for 5-6 minute subs is good enough.?

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Good choice. One thing, if you're using an ASIAIR then bypass the iPolar. It won't be needed. I have one and when I was strictly visual I used it all the time, but the moment I purchased an ASIAIR and used the mount for astrophotography I found that the polar alignment was different with the iPolar and with the ASIAIR and so the iPolar was never used. Just my recommendation.

On Mon, Sep 23, 2024 at 05:26 AM, <dkfcpalfd@...> wrote:

I have a Losmandy Titan mount, and many months ago I upgraded to L6..... flashed the circuit board/HC with the GFU, and flashed the servo ports with the cable/software.

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I exclusively use the mount for astrophotography, and only did the upgrade for improving guiding/tracking.? My overall guide error went from typically in the 0.80 - 0.90's", to the 0.50's".? This was a home run.

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What I also noticed was that my plate solving greatly improved also, and I? noticed that the plotting of calibration step points on the RA/DEC axes during PHD2 calibration, appeared much more accurate.? With several calibration runs, all the step points were on the axes.... that did not used to be the case.

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My astronomy club has the same mount.? The club only uses the mount for observing..... no astrophotography, and no autoguiding/tracking performed.

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The slewing accuracy can be fairly spotty.... not consistent, and I've played around with modeling and doing an align/synchronize in various parts of the sky.

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I looked at the Losmandy page that provides an overview of L6, and it only discusses improvement in guiding/tracking accuracy, which is the aspect that most of us want.

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With the improvement in encoder resolution with L6, I'm wondering if slewing accuracy of my astro club's Titan mount would be improved if I upgraded to L6?? It seems as though improving encoder resolution would improve the precision/accuracy of any movement of the mount.

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If you think L6 would improve slewing accuracy, I'm going to go ahead and upgrade the club's mount.

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Thanks in advance.

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Dan? ??

Hi Dan,

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The L6 firmware IMO makes.little difference for a visual user. But it is well worth the effort to do so as to ensure future compatibility with popular software and future usage.?

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Assuming the club mount is in good condition mechanically and the mount specs, GPS coordinates and UTC are all set correctly the most likely issue for poor initial GOTO performance is polar alignment and the lack of a good sky model. These mounts are basically foolproof LOL but you have to understand how to set the stage for a successful frustration free night of observation.?

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I don't know how the club PAs the scope but this is the first thing to do, get it right and initial GOTOs will be close as long as you have wiped the model corrections out by cold starting or manually deleting them.?

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The other possible issue is misalignment between the optical axis and the mount axes. If the error is off by the same amount on either side of the meridian chances are good this is at least some part of the problem.?

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HTH

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Hi Dan,

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L6 not only improved (by 4x) the encoder accuracy, it changed the servo motor control logic, which can help with slews, tracking and guiding. I wouldn't expect the upgrade to make a major difference in pointing accuracy. If there are pointing issues with L5, it's more likely that there are some other issues with the mount or the scope (backlash, flexure, mirror flop, imbalance, polar alignment, time/geo location settings, poor model, etc.)

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Regardless, an upgrade to L6 should only improve? or, at worst, not change mount accuracy. In my opinion, the upgrade is still worth doing, although I wouldn't expect a major change in pointing.

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Regards,

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? ?-Paul

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On Mon, Sep 23, 2024 at 08:26 AM, <dkfcpalfd@...> wrote:

I have a Losmandy Titan mount, and many months ago I upgraded to L6..... flashed the circuit board/HC with the GFU, and flashed the servo ports with the cable/software.

?

I exclusively use the mount for astrophotography, and only did the upgrade for improving guiding/tracking.? My overall guide error went from typically in the 0.80 - 0.90's", to the 0.50's".? This was a home run.

?

What I also noticed was that my plate solving greatly improved also, and I? noticed that the plotting of calibration step points on the RA/DEC axes during PHD2 calibration, appeared much more accurate.? With several calibration runs, all the step points were on the axes.... that did not used to be the case.

?

My astronomy club has the same mount.? The club only uses the mount for observing..... no astrophotography, and no autoguiding/tracking performed.

?

The slewing accuracy can be fairly spotty.... not consistent, and I've played around with modeling and doing an align/synchronize in various parts of the sky.

?

I looked at the Losmandy page that provides an overview of L6, and it only discusses improvement in guiding/tracking accuracy, which is the aspect that most of us want.

?

With the improvement in encoder resolution with L6, I'm wondering if slewing accuracy of my astro club's Titan mount would be improved if I upgraded to L6?? It seems as though improving encoder resolution would improve the precision/accuracy of any movement of the mount.

?

If you think L6 would improve slewing accuracy, I'm going to go ahead and upgrade the club's mount.

?

Thanks in advance.

?

Dan? ??

Firstly, when sizing for a clearance fit there is close fit and free fit. Neither is 1/2". Close is 33/64" or.5156" (13.1mm). Free fit is 17/32" or .5312 (13.5mm).

?

Secondly, the current flood of strain wave drive based telescope I pretty disturbing. Unless such a mount has high resolution encoders to take care of the period error that is exhibited by the entire length of the outer and inner splines of the drive reducers being made in China, etc., I can't see why anyone would obtain one expecting performance better than a well made worm gear reduction. I feel it shouldn't be encouraged. The justification that one can take 180-30 second images and use 100GB to stack and process them doesn't convince me otherwise.

On Sun, Sep 22, 2024 at 06:14 AM, Joe McBride wrote:

Thanks for the update. ?I still like to use the polar scope to do a quick alignment. ?I have the original the 90’ 00” 10” but I extrapolate the current decade . ?

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Joe

Sent from my iDork

On Sep 21, 2024, at 6:12?PM, crocco1250 via groups.io <crocco1250@...> wrote:

Joe

I found the same thing. I have a Kenko reticule that's good to j2030 (I think I bought it from hutech but it's been too many years to remember) but found no reticle update. I've emailed kenko but I suspect computer plate solving, like sharpcap and SGP, has rendered them obsolete like the button shoe. If I hear from Kenko I'll update.

Chuck

On Wednesday, September 18, 2024 at 06:25:44 AM PDT, Joe McBride <j.p.mcbride@...> wrote:

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<image0.png>

Sent from my iDork

On Sep 17, 2024, at 11:51?PM, Chip Louie <chiplouie@...> wrote:

On Tue, Sep 17, 2024 at 03:52 AM, <ernie.mastroianni@...> wrote:

Does anyone know where I can buy the updated reticle for the G-11 polar scope? My G-11 mount is 30 years old and works fine, but I've outlived the reticle, which has no alignment marks after 2010.

- Ernie

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Sometimes Losmandy has them but if not you can order them from ?

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Chip Louie Chief Daydreamer Imagination Hardware?

Astrospheric Forecast - South Pasadena, CA?

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<image0.png>

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I agree, for visual use this works fine even for planetary use. For any imaging use it gets you closer and your PA routine will be made easier.??

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On Sat, Sep 21, 2024 at 12:38 PM, Luca Fumagalli wrote:

Thank you Ed - Appreciate your availability.

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So.. I made a decision - I'm going to buy the G11G (w/ HD tripod, iPolar and RA extension).

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Can you guys please help with a couple of more questions?

- This is the first time I deal with a tripod/pier like the Losmandy's HD. What is the best config for it? Legs fully retracted + extension pier, or legs fully extended? The pier will stay in a tent with removable roof, so it is more or less shielded from the wind, but not pe?rfectly. I'm just trying to put everything I can in the cart now in order to minimize further shipment fees...

- About the reported capacity of the G11G (60lbs): is it real or I should consider about 80% of it as max capacity? Just wondering if G11T would be a better fit for me. But, I also see that the G11T doesn't come with the Gemini2. Maybe it's a typo on the webpage, not sure..

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Thanks, Luca

Luca,

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Congrats, a G11G with the RAEXT kit installed sitting on the FHD is an excellent imaging mount that you will keep for a very long time.? BUT, if you are going to have a laptop or other computer near the imaging rig and will be using something like NINA or SGP etc. there is no need to buy the iPolar camera at all.?

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Instead use SharpCap Pro or NINA for polar alignment which leverages your main imaging optic and camera to do polar alignment.? This gives you one less extra camera to buy, one less cable to route etc. etc..? Then use the money you saved to upgrade your autoguider camera to a ZWO ASI678MM for use as your piggybacked autoguider rig with a 50mm guidescope like the Stellarvue with the solid clamshell mounting ring or ASKAR guider which has a built-in mount and adjusters, both are excellent.?

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my configuration has legs collapsed and a 8” extension. this is to give camera more clearance, not because of stability concerns. tripod is rock solid either way

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Edward

Joe

Joe

I found the same thing. I have a Kenko reticule that's good to j2030 (I think I bought it from hutech but it's been too many years to remember) but found no reticle update. I've emailed kenko but I suspect computer plate solving, like sharpcap and SGP, has rendered them obsolete like the button shoe. If I hear from Kenko I'll update.

Chuck

Thank you Ed - Appreciate your availability.

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So.. I made a decision - I'm going to buy the G11G (w/ HD tripod, iPolar and RA extension).

?

Can you guys please help with a couple of more questions?

- This is the first time I deal with a tripod/pier like the Losmandy's HD. What is the best config for it? Legs fully retracted + extension pier, or legs fully extended? The pier will stay in a tent with removable roof, so it is more or less shielded from the wind, but not perfectly. I'm just trying to put everything I can in the cart now in order to minimize further shipment fees...

- About the reported capacity of the G11G (60lbs): is it real or I should consider about 80% of it as max capacity? Just wondering if G11T would be a better fit for me. But, I also see that the G11T doesn't come with the Gemini2. Maybe it's a typo on the webpage, not sure..

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Thanks, Luca

Luca,

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Echoing other responders, this is what I do:

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Most devices mounted to pier extension. plastic split loom houses all cables to scope including: camera usb, camera power, diy focuser, 2 dew heaters, gps if needed. Both ends attached to known spots and the top end exits the scope horizontally to port side. This arrangement has worked well for me for unattended imaging and flipping.

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BTW, I am down in Las Cruces though rig is in storage for the moment.

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Edward

WayBack, do you happen to have more pictures about this solution?

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Thanks, Luca

On Fri, Sep 20, 2024 at 02:47 PM, Luca Fumagalli wrote:

Internal cabling is not an absolute

An early example for you of one of my G11G cable harnesses made to mimic internal cabling with end to end connectors.? It followed the construction details of others to support my remote site assembly and disassembly.? This allows pointing the C11 anywhere in the sky (nothing trailing).

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Thank you All for the great feedback. I am sincerely impressed by the help I've found in this community.

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Internal cabling is not an absolute must to me, but I do admit that it gives to me a lot of comfort (knowing of course that if a connection breaks inside the mount then it's a lot of pain, as pointed out before by Chip). By the way, I understand that Losmandy's support and craftsmanship are top notch, which is possibly better that internal cable routing, but still I need to figure out if this is the right choice for me.

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Chip, I truly appreciate your offer but I live in New Mexico. Vice-versa, if any of you will happen to swing by Rio Rancho, NM, please let me know and I'll pay you a beer for the inputs you are giving : )

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Luca

Thanks!

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jim

Hi Luca,

I have a GM811G, but I think I can help answer a couple questions about the cables and power and the answer is no. It doesn't have a DC socket or any type of cable management. All the cables will be hanging out. The CEM70 might be a better choice if both of those are important to you. I purchased a Losmandy because I liked the way it looked, the build is very, very solid and well made, it's upgradable, they have fantastic customer service, and most of all, it's made in the United States, Burbank to be exact. I'll pay and have paid the extra cost for well made tools made in the U.S.