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Let's assume I think the mount is in CWD position, but the DEC axis is actually 3 degrees off.
When I start the polar alignment, I adjust the az knob so the pole is somewhat centered.? To make the telescope straight, now the az is off by 3 degrees.
After I rotate the RA axis 90 degrees, I find that I have to adjust the az back 3 degrees.

On Tue, Jul 13, 2021 at 11:21 PM, John Kmetz wrote:

Other than the motor adjustment, touching up the gears with a bit of Superlube can help. If you take the motors off you can dab some on the pinion gear and inside the gearbox with a small pick or screwdriver. Applying some more to the spur gears and the worm likewise can help. The grease seems like it gets pushed aside over time and piles up outside the contact areas. A touch up now and then can be prudent.?

The two transfer gears appear to have a dark grey lube on them.

I already did that

What seems to be loud noise when sitting next to mount late at night can be a relative experience. When I get back inside the house and run remotely I can't hear anything, even with the windows open.

Other than the motor adjustment, touching up the gears with a bit of Superlube can help. If you take the motors off you can dab some on the pinion gear and inside the gearbox with a small pick or screwdriver. Applying some more to the spur gears and the worm likewise can help. The grease seems like it gets pushed aside over time and piles up outside the contact areas. A touch up now and then can be prudent.?

You know I had a CEM60 for a short period before I returned it to Ioptron for a refund. Nice and quiet, but it vibrated like a tuning fork at the slightest disturbance.?

Bob H. here, my primary question does the server, or some other storage modailty required i.e. meaning my own on PC storage capability. Many of these daily summaries are full of need to know data, answers to need only once in a while, etc. I need to know how to access said info from .io or my own personal storage. Respectfully submitted.?

On Tue, Jul 13, 2021 at 09:07 PM, Brian Valente wrote:

Hi ALan

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>>>This is because I use Sharpcap for polar alignment, and I always start with adjusting the alt, az knobs to get the scope roughly pointing at the pole.

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>>>You may be thinking, "well, you love plate solving so much, why don't you use that after the polar alignment?"??

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Afaik Sharpcap PA routines use platesolving to do its thing? and doesn't require precise CDW position to work effectively

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On Tue, Jul 13, 2021 at 8:05 PM alan137 <acfang137@...> wrote:

Hello,?
Is there a way to figure out how to set the mount to the CDW position without using the bubble levels?? Since I set the mount on pavement, it's not always perfectly level.? But I do need the DEC axis (for example) to be pointing EXACTLY straight forwards.? This is because I use Sharpcap for polar alignment, and I always start with adjusting the alt, az knobs to get the scope roughly pointing at the pole.? This is BEFORE I do the "rotate the RA axis by 90 degrees" part and finish with fine adjustments.
My mount has the setting circles on it, but for some reason I don't understand, the scales are rotateable, so that doesn't help me.? I would have thought there would be inscribed marks on the axis?? (Now that I think about it, my old DEC G8 axis did have an inscribed mark with a non-rotatable scale, which was helpful.)?
You may be thinking, "well, you love plate solving so much, why don't you use that after the polar alignment?"? The problem is that when you do plate solve near the pole, it doesn't take into account cone / pointing error and only sends the center of the frame back to the mount for sync. (I think it doesn't send the rotation of the frame)? Anyway, if you have any cone / pointing error, the RA and DEC values will be way off.

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Brian?

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Brian Valente

portfolio

That was what I was understanding / hoping too

I think if you really need to worry about it, SharpCap has a tool for it. I've never used it though

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Have u seen my long post where I talk about characterizing the DEC backlash with PHD2 guiding assistant?
Too tight worm mesh will cause backlash as well, and I suspect you have a too tight worm mesh because you keep talking about having to "power thru" motor stalls.
The "correct" worm mesh is a really light touch with low clutch pressure and shouldn't take more than about 300mA to slew.

Hello folks,?
I have a new version of the mount with the tucked motors.? When slewing, they are really loud, like SCREEEEEEEEE!
I'm worried it disturbs my neighbors in the middle of the night.??
Is the noise coming from the motor, gearbox, or the two transfer gears?
I already tried to do the thing where you loosen the motor screws and try slightly different positions for the motor, but that didn't help.
Is there any good reason not to replace the two transfer gears with a belt drive?
How about covering the entire motor assembly with a cloth?
My rickety CEM25P uses a belt drive with no gearbox and it is really quiet.

Hello,?
Is there a way to figure out how to set the mount to the CDW position without using the bubble levels?? Since I set the mount on pavement, it's not always perfectly level.? But I do need the DEC axis (for example) to be pointing EXACTLY straight forwards.? This is because I use Sharpcap for polar alignment, and I always start with adjusting the alt, az knobs to get the scope roughly pointing at the pole.? This is BEFORE I do the "rotate the RA axis by 90 degrees" part and finish with fine adjustments.
My mount has the setting circles on it, but for some reason I don't understand, the scales are rotateable, so that doesn't help me.? I would have thought there would be inscribed marks on the axis?? (Now that I think about it, my old DEC G8 axis did have an inscribed mark with a non-rotatable scale, which was helpful.)?
You may be thinking, "well, you love plate solving so much, why don't you use that after the polar alignment?"? The problem is that when you do plate solve near the pole, it doesn't take into account cone / pointing error and only sends the center of the frame back to the mount for sync. (I think it doesn't send the rotation of the frame)? Anyway, if you have any cone / pointing error, the RA and DEC values will be way off.

And here is part II (now to try to stitch them)

Good call.? I'll put my money on it being related to the worm bearings (either the worm blocks, despite the OPW block, being slightly misaligned so pinching, or a bad bearing).? Of course your 76s error supports this so not that much of a guess.

Of the many things I've tried over the years, one of the only things that led to a noticeable improvement on these kind of rapid jumps was to replace the bearings.? And I don't necessarily mean going to an ABEC-7, since even some ABEC-5s were smoother (and can hand picked from a bunch, literally).? Of course you'd have to be comfortable exploring this, but best to let Losmandy help sort this out on a new mount.

Keith

They should all fit just fine. The only parts that I know of that cannot be carried directly from the current G11 to the older Celestron labeled G11 are the plastic clutch discs and the second elevation screws.? ??

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Chip Louie Chief Daydreamer Imagination Hardware?

? ?Astropheric Weather Forecast - South Pasadena, CA?

Logged a ticket directly with Losmandy to get to the bottom of these issues. I dont think a 1"-3" re-occurring RA variance (+/-) is expected, so I must have set something up wrong.

Will report back with what I learn

Hello, Does anyone know if the following replacement/upgrade parts for the G-11 will fit on the old Celestron branded G-11? ?

G-11 SPDV saddle plate
CKS (or CKS B) clutch knobs
Polemaster adapter for G-11

Thanks

Hi Jean-Philippe,

Yes, you can set Gemini location and time from the GPS connected to your PC. In Gemini.NET driver, bring up the GPS window and connect to the GPS. You should see data being received from the GPS and latitude, longitude - and time updated. Click OK to close the GPS window when you see the new data there. You can then send the location and time to Gemini by pressing Set Now buttons under Site and Time in Gemini Settings window.

Regards,

? ? -Paul

For those interested in cage guided needle bearings, how they work and their relative advantage over the Torrington full compliment needle bearings used by Losmandy, I found this manufacturer article very informative (nice graphics):?Their design intrinsically keeps the rollers parallel with the shaft.?

Peter:

I have a few guiding runs but none long enough to get a meaningful FFT.? Weather has been dreadful but hopefully in the next few days I can grab a few unguided worm period's worth.? If the 80s still lingers, I can live with that since even the 32s in the Losmandys can be handled reasonably well with 1 - 1.5s guide exposures and keeping the aggression low-ish.? I'm seeing things <9.6s, but will be more illustrative once I have some data to share.

Keith??

Peter,

These are some interesting mods you are undertaking. I'm sure you will let us know if they are successful. With regard to the needle bearings, I imagine there needs to be some level of play with regard to needle movement. If the needles were perfectly rigid within the cage, both bearings on the shaft would need to be more perfectly parallel as seated inside the mount or there would be more significant wear on the shaft. The needles in both bearings and the main shaft would all need to be well aligned axially or you could be riding high on one end of a needle, and low on the other. So less play in needle bearing means more precise machining of the bearing seats in the housing. But if you can gain less shaft wiggle with the new bearings mentioned that would be great if the seat tolerances allow.

And yes I have done the Bellville washer mods on both RA and Dec. I tried a number of ways to tighten down the blocks as per Michael's instructions. I found if I used a C-clamp on the blocks before tightening down, I could flex down the Bellville washers to gain that axial tension. But if I clamped too hard, the worm was too difficult to turn and the motor stalled. Even after the mod, I still had some wiggle if I rocked the counterweight shaft back and forth, but yes much less than beforehand.

My feeling is still the worm machining and then polishing is a fine art, yet to be perfected here. Since mount performance relies heavily on worm profile, if there was a simple solution HGM would already be doing that. If you have the skills to gain a better outcome, please share when you have it down. Just adjusting the blocks the first time took 5 or 6 nights out for me. Make an adjustment, assemble rig, guide at night, check results, then tear all down again if not right.?

Best of success,

John