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Date

Re: Pier side

 

Jamie,

Make sure your Go To Limit allows you to point to items a bit east of the meridian with the scope on the east side.? For example, if your east and west limits are each 100 degrees, you can set your go to limit at 15 degrees (which is 5 degrees before the meridian).? That will let the go to command in EKOS point at anything with an hour angle greater than -20 minutes with the scope on the east side.? This setting will also ensure that a meridian flip can occur anytime the pointing position is beyond this limit.

RD Beck


Re: Gemini-2 momentarily went haywire

 

Damn......3.....No wonder you upgraded some equipment
--
Brendan


Re: Gemini-2 momentarily went haywire

 

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Update ¨C I¡¯ve actually replaced three of those H-Bridges

?

D.

?

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Brendan Smith
Sent: 12 May 2021 04:07
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users_io] Gemini-2 momentarily went haywire

?

John I thought I saw some bubbling on the U7 IC but it looks to be just the glue/lacquer Losmandy/Aveox used to glue down the firmware sticker on the DSPIC.

I repaired a similar fault you mentioned.....it was the H bridge in that case.?? I suspect Losmandy would like to see it.??

These PCBs are repairable fully!?? They are designed to be repaired!?? The repairs have spares of this IC and all others on hand in stock.?? David Partridge has replaced one of these (he's in the UK). I'm in Australia, I've done 2 now.?? But Brian Valente (the Losmandy rep) expressed desire to bring it back to their shop.? They have probably replaced plenty. ? So I suggest you sent it to Losmandy.

I mean its up to you but since they asked I think they are interested in analysing this issue...and of course fixing it to component level

Cheers

Brendan


--
Brendan


Re: Roadside Treasure will be a Counterweight

 

what a super cool find!

thanks for sharing this and including a pic

On Tue, May 11, 2021 at 8:04 PM Russell Milton <russmilt@...> wrote:
My wife & I took a drive along the Oregon coast last weekend. We stopped at a turn-out near Gold beach. And there Renee' noticed a real treasure laying on the gravel - a cylinder of steel about 6-inch diameter and 2 inches thick. With a suitable hole drilled in the middle this will make a nice counterweight for my G11 mount. As is, it weighs a bit over 17 lbs. (8 kg.). I'm thinking of having a machine shop drill the hole. I could make a radial, threaded hole for a bolt to secure it to the counterweight shaft. But lacking that, it could be use at the end of the shaft, up against the toe-guard washer. Then balancing could be achieved by positioning some other weights above my home-grown weight. Someone's junk is another's treasure. A little machine work and paint will make another usable counterweight.



--
Brian?



Brian Valente
portfolio


Re: Roadside Treasure will be a Counterweight

 

You may want to get some shop estimates before moving forward. Drilling the main bore hole to size and a second threaded hole to secure might not be that cheap (unless you have a buddy that can do it for less). Then compare to the Losmandy price with shipping.

The guy from Spain made his own counterweight as shipping 21# across the pond probably doesn't come cheap.

All in the numbers.


Re: Gemini-2 momentarily went haywire

 

John I thought I saw some bubbling on the U7 IC but it looks to be just the glue/lacquer Losmandy/Aveox used to glue down the firmware sticker on the DSPIC.

I repaired a similar fault you mentioned.....it was the H bridge in that case.?? I suspect Losmandy would like to see it.??

These PCBs are repairable fully!?? They are designed to be repaired!?? The repairs have spares of this IC and all others on hand in stock.?? David Partridge has replaced one of these (he's in the UK). I'm in Australia, I've done 2 now.?? But Brian Valente (the Losmandy rep) expressed desire to bring it back to their shop.? They have probably replaced plenty. ? So I suggest you sent it to Losmandy.

I mean its up to you but since they asked I think they are interested in analysing this issue...and of course fixing it to component level

Cheers

Brendan


--
Brendan


Roadside Treasure will be a Counterweight

 

My wife & I took a drive along the Oregon coast last weekend. We stopped at a turn-out near Gold beach. And there Renee' noticed a real treasure laying on the gravel - a cylinder of steel about 6-inch diameter and 2 inches thick. With a suitable hole drilled in the middle this will make a nice counterweight for my G11 mount. As is, it weighs a bit over 17 lbs. (8 kg.). I'm thinking of having a machine shop drill the hole. I could make a radial, threaded hole for a bolt to secure it to the counterweight shaft. But lacking that, it could be use at the end of the shaft, up against the toe-guard washer. Then balancing could be achieved by positioning some other weights above my home-grown weight. Someone's junk is another's treasure. A little machine work and paint will make another usable counterweight.


Re: Gemini-2 momentarily went haywire

 

Brendan,

Here are the shots you were looking for (attached). Hopefully the photographic quality is good enough for what you want to see. Personally I don't see any cracks or burned components anywhere. Previously I tested continuity of the Dec and RA sockets straight through to the far side of the board and they seem fine.

My plan is to replace the board and we'll see if the hiccup goes away. If you or Brian/Losmandy want to examine the old board afterwards, please let me know and I can ship it to you.?

Regards,

John


Re: Pier side

 

Thanks Brian, that's what I meant. So next time I'll try and manually? slew a bit east before slewing to the target.?

Jamie


Re: Pier side

 

Hi Jamie

I am not sure what you mean by "telescope hanging" - I assume you mean pier side i.e., pier side east or west

If so, the target has to be reachable on both sides of pier.?

After startup, you can try slewing the mount so it's slightly pier side east (telescope on eastern side, I think your preferred starting point) and then do your goto routine.?

The Gemini prefers to stay on same side of pier, so after you startup and sidereal is engaged, the telescope has already moved a little bit to pier side west

Brian
??

On Tue, May 11, 2021 at 4:14 PM Jamie Amendolagine <jamie.amendolagine@...> wrote:
With my backyard view it's best if I can have the scope hang to the east to start the night. I use kstars/ekos/indi connected to skysafari to select and slew to a target. It usually seems to end up with the scope hanging west. I usually have to use the manual control in skysafari to position it close to the target, and then slew to it. I'm assuming that scope position is determined by my GeminiII system on the GM811G (couple years old). Is there a setting to prefer positioning the scope to the east??

Jamie



--
Brian?



Brian Valente
portfolio


Pier side

 

With my backyard view it's best if I can have the scope hang to the east to start the night. I use kstars/ekos/indi connected to skysafari to select and slew to a target. It usually seems to end up with the scope hanging west. I usually have to use the manual control in skysafari to position it close to the target, and then slew to it. I'm assuming that scope position is determined by my GeminiII system on the GM811G (couple years old). Is there a setting to prefer positioning the scope to the east??

Jamie


Re: Gemini-2 momentarily went haywire

 

That's not how the Gemini H bridge drive works....its PWM....both motor poles are held high (at input voltage aka 12V-18VDC) one pole pulses low at a preset freq (the pulse width is determined by the system...which is to the motor, an avg DC offset, it drives.? It Not only drives it move it does so with good torque due to the drive system PWM design.

The H bridge does have ceramic capacitors on each output and a large electro on its Vin drive power close by (There is another at pwr in).?? The H bridge It is laid out exactly to the design specs of the ICs mfgr.

Any large filter on the motor drive lines will distort the motor power factor.?? This design is basically the same or similar to that in the Gemini 1....just using newer ICs....aka a dual G bridge in SO20 package.

It works there is nothing wrong with the design
--
Brendan


Re: New mount, old tripod

 

This is normal. Don't worry about it.?

--

Chip Louie Chief Daydreamer Imagination Hardware?

? ?Astropheric Weather Forecast - South Pasadena, CA?


Re: Gemini-2 momentarily went haywire

 

Ceramic cores are fine if properly sized for the application but at very low frequencies the core would not be very effective plus the core would be large and heavy. ?See the ARRL RFI handbook. ? If possible first measure the noise on the DC motor circuit with an Oscilloscope, maybe one of your ham radio or techy friends has one. ?A ?.1mfd ceramic disc capacitor (dot 1 mfd) rated at anything above 50 volts at the dc connection to the motor DC terminals. ?$0.10 . ? ?I have remote controlled DC motors with various decoders not only in my Astro gear but ham radio antenna rotators and WiFi controlled antenna tuners to suppress motor noise. ? Ceramic Ferrite Cores with sufficient inductance would be too large and heavy and are more effective to suppress high frequency noise. ? ?

It would not hurt to add a large filter capacitor across the DC plug to smooth out voltage drop due to motor start surge current . ?Some people have mentioned replacing the power supply but I wonder if that is really necessary , large current surge can be ¡®smoothed¡¯ out with a properly sized electrolytic capacitor across the DC line, such a capacitor is in every power supply ever made , 1000mfd at 50 volts ?but again I like to see the circuit on an oscilloscope for a before and after picture but Non of these components would harm anything ... ceramic disc capacitors are not polarized +/- but Electrolytic capacitors are Polar sensitive, the terminals are marked positive and negative so pay attention to connect positive to positive and negative to negative. ? ?
? ?
Of course proceed at your own risk, all mentioned components are common electronic parts, The electrolytic can be installed anywhere along the DC cable or at a connector just remember positive to positive, negative to negative, thevalue is not critical but the voltage rating should be at least 3 times the power supply output for safety so 35volt or higher rating is Ok, ?The ceramic disc capacitor is very small and should be at the motor terminals. ?A 15 watt soldering iron is best for the job, not 100 watts which could destroy parts. ??


Re: Reducing DEC Backlash with Titan 50

 

Dan,

Some notes on adjusting the worm on a Titan vs G11 or GM8

1. The G11 and GM8 use individual worm bearing blocks.? Each block has a bottom "nipple" that fits a specific hole.? The left hole, closest the gearbox, is a pivot point.? You simply pivot the worm into the ring gear using the pivot point, feel for free worm tightness, then tighten down the worm blocks....done. Then you adjust the gearbox until the Oldham coupler plastic center just rotates, not shifts.? Then attach the motor...done.??

2. The Titan has no pivot point.? Both mounting bolts can swivel and pivot so the worm can shift left or right.? The length of the worm enclosure block is larger than the plate on which it mounts. You must therefore rest the worm in its enclosure on top of the ring gear, and perhaps use a level, and feel the ends to see if your block is nearly centered.? ?

Fortunately, if your Titan has tucked motors, the entire drive gear assembly is bolted directly to the worm enclosure.? You can tilt or shift the week RM and not affect the drive gear train at all.??

Some owners have used automotive feeler gauges to measure the gap on either end of the worm block, to see if it is level.? You'd need two sets of feeler gauges and the gap will be thick.??

When you have the worm block assembled don't completely tighten the 14mm nuts that hold the worm block down.? You can use the upper Allen head bolts to pull the worm block up off of the worm if it has too much friction.??

It is best to have an ammeter equipped power supply to the Gemini, to tell the Gemini motor current.? Then you can determine the gear adjustments that give consistently low motor current. (If you need one, contact me separately).?

---- other related adjustments ----

As I mentioned in an earlier post, one problem area is the worm can have a lateral shift, or be pressed too tight leading to worm friction.? On the OVision worm block for the G11, they used a Belleville spring washer under the end cap screw.? Losmandy doesn't use one but I think that's a best approach. The spring size to use is for a 6200 size bearing.? You put the outer cup edge forcing into the worm bearing OD, and let the inner cup edge go against the threaded endcap.? I use two such Belleville washers inner cup to inner cup.? Then just screw in the end so until the Belleville washer(s) and worm bearing are in contact and turn another 1/8 turn.?

Finally (?) I find the worm to ring gear grease is also important.? You want the lowest friction possible because the worm has to rub nearly perpendicular to the ring gear.? This action is like the bowing of a violin string, and can lead to a vibration ("chatter").? The lube with lowest "4-ball test mark distance" of 0.6mm, and highest Timken test rating of 60 lbs is the CRC Brake and Caliper Grease.? This gave the smoothest performance to my G11T titan RA drive.? That lube has anticorrosion ingredients and the same low copper corrosion behavior as Super lube.? But it seems to stays in the metal to metal high pressure contact point of the worm to ring gear better than superlube.

?Best of luck,

Michael





On Mon, May 10, 2021, 11:40 AM dkfcpalfd via <dkfcpalfd=[email protected]> wrote:
Thanks to you both.? Very informative.??

At some point I will give it a shot.... you are making it sound fairly easy.? When I do it.... I'll have both the scope/imaging equipment and the counterweight's removed (actually though I guess that may only be applicable for the RA worm, and in the CWD position, I can't see anything would turn there).

It is sounding like adjusting the worm mesh on the block bolts is once again the trickiest part about it.

Thanks again.

Dan


Re: Still some DEC issues

 

It's better to use the built-in PHD log uploader and paste the link

Also trimmed logs are not helpful - you can't auto load them into the PHD Log Viewer


Brian

On Tue, May 11, 2021 at 2:54 AM alan137 <acfang137@...> wrote:
Is there a way to trim the guide log?? Do I post it here or some other place?? Because SOME people who complain about getting a second message from editing probably don't want to get a several hundred kilobyte file that they aren't going to look at anyway.



--
Brian?



Brian Valente
portfolio


Re: Still some DEC issues

 

On Tue, May 11, 2021 at 05:54 AM, alan137 wrote:
Is there a way to trim the guide log?? Do I post it here or some other place?? Because SOME people who complain about getting a second message from editing probably don't want to get a several hundred kilobyte file that they aren't going to look at anyway.
Use a Zip utility to compress the log file and upload it to the Files section here:?/g/Losmandy_users/files?and then post a link to it in a message.
Don't send it out as an attachment to your message, unless it's a small file.

Regards,

? ? ?-Paul


New mount, old tripod

 

Hello folks,?
I have a new mount with an old HD tripod, the non-folding kind.? It seems that the base diameter of the mount is about 2 mm smaller than the inner diameter of the tripod mounting surface.? So what happens when I go tighten the three mounting screws is:
The first screw goes in easily and firmly bottoms out
The second screw has a small range between when it starts to get tighter and when it bottoms out.? I can see that it moves the mount by a little bit.
The third screw takes a while to bottom out and becomes really tight as it starts to ovalize the tripod head.
And at the end of the day when I try to loosen the screws again, they are almost stuck because they are all under a lot of tension now.
Can I shim up this gap with washers or strips of aluminum somewhere?


Re: Still some DEC issues

 

Is there a way to trim the guide log?? Do I post it here or some other place?? Because SOME people who complain about getting a second message from editing probably don't want to get a several hundred kilobyte file that they aren't going to look at anyway.


Re: Gemini-2 momentarily went haywire

 

John

Could you please re-photograph the top of the PCB again particularly U7 DSPic!?? It looks like its bee a little hot on the sticker on top.? The problem here is U7 is DSPic for DEC...the issue is DEC isn't it?

I've worked on Gemini's? that have had runaway issues and odd issues like you said.? Sometimes there sometimes touching a direction arrow causes runaway etc.? Along the food chain of ICs and problems it can be are:

A cracked solder join on the connector to PCB....unlikely with the mini
A bad H bridge U13.??? Yes this can cause the said same issues, usually one channel.
A bad DSPic.?? I'd first attempt to re-flash it to see how that went but the firmware is not available to public.?? Yes this could be the issue...or changing on spec and flashing it.
Or the ARM processor U11.? Which has firmware not publicly available.
PCB cracks....no apart from some motor connectors.? The Gemini uses good leaded solder not that crappy "no lead"....which fractures and needs a furnace to melt/re-flow.

My bet is the H Bridge U13 in one channel.?? Its not easy to replace s the PCB has 4 layers and GND/PWR planes in-between so heat soak is huge.?? You need good equipment and techniques to replace this.

I think its at the point you send it either to Losmandy of one of the repairers.

--
Brendan