Re: G11 Drive Gear Removal
Michael,
Looking at these set screws under high magnification, it does seem they are stripped internally and are no longer a perfect hex shape. I don't see a way to easily remove the gears without drilling out the screw or pulling off under force. Either way I wouldn't want to attempt this until had some replacement gears on hand. For anyone replacing a gearbox with the Losmandy original, or any alternative you have in mind, this one small screw may prove to be a challenge.
Best regards,
John
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Re: Used GM-8 Guiding Help
Hi Nick
Your DEC axis shows stiction, so it seems like you may have it too tight there? it also looks like your polar alignment may be quite a bit off since DEC continues to want to drift downwards
Regarding mechanical, the logs don't lie. your main period PE is nearly 25" peak to peak, which is pretty huge
I can't help but focus on seeing your RA in one direction only.?
just for testing purposes, you might triple check the correct mount type (i know, but) and also confirm the gearing is set correctly for a G8
have? you also done gotos successfully, or just slewed around?
you could also try experimenting with adjusting the RA divisor to see if a slightly different rate will help on this. It also looks like you may have stiction on the RA axis as well. it seems to snap back every once in a while. are you overtightening thingts? :)
?
>>>I just have to wonder though because I can manually guide in PHD2 better than hysteresis and PPEC
it might feel that way, but you are guiding at around 1 pixel accuracy, so I don't know if your manual guide would be that much better
Update
So I received the new gearboxes and installed on RA and Dec. I was hopeful since they seemed to have a little less play in them compared to the ones I've been using. I still can't shake this bad guiding, not sure if anyone has other thoughts? I attached a few of tonight's guide logs, but looks like more of the same. Everyone says its a mechanical issue, I just have to wonder though because I can manually guide in PHD2 better than hysteresis and PPEC...open to any input...feeling defeated tonight :(
-- Brian?
Brian Valente portfolio
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Re: Used GM-8 Guiding Help
Update
So I received the new gearboxes and installed on RA and Dec. I was hopeful since they seemed to have a little less play in them compared to the ones I've been using. I still can't shake this bad guiding, not sure if anyone has other thoughts? I attached a few of tonight's guide logs, but looks like more of the same. Everyone says its a mechanical issue, I just have to wonder though because I can manually guide in PHD2 better than hysteresis and PPEC...open to any input...feeling defeated tonight :(
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Re: G11T vs AstroPhysics - opinions wanted
Wow, I hadn't thought about the tooth count.? Duh!
Thanks for pointing that out....? that may be the deciding factor.
al
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Re: G11T vs AstroPhysics - opinions wanted
Worm gear diameter and tooth count, all things being equal, are the imost mportant items to consider in tracking and payload capacity. A balanced design is more important than outright mechanical strength. This is why the G11 is a better mount.
--
Chip Louie Chief Daydreamer Imagination Hardware?
? ?Astropheric Weather Forecast - South Pasadena, CA?
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Re: G11T vs AstroPhysics - opinions wanted
Al,
One very important consideration for you should be the camera you are using or planning to use: the size of the pixels of your camera would limit the focal length of your telescope.
For instance, I am using ST8300 with 5.4um pixels, which gives 0.5"/pixels at 2000mm FL with my 10" RC.?
0.5"/pixel is probably the highest resolution you should be looking at for imaging DSO - any higher resolution and seeing would?impact image quality.?
My G11 is able to handle my 10" RC, which weighs about #40, although it is a little marginal.
If you have a camera with smaller pixels, no point in going with a larger scope, like 12" RC.
The only reason you may want a bigger scope is if you have one of those old cameras with 9um pixels, only in that case you need a bigger/better mount, otherwise, G11 should be fine.
BTW, I think that mechanically, CGE is actually stronger than G11. The problem with CGE is that it has 180 teeth on the worm gear, whereas G11 has 360.
Alex
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Re: Losmandy Polar scope calibration
Thanks all for the info. Looks like I'll be calibrating. Amazon has the 0.9mm...ordered and on the way.
Bob
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Re: Losmandy Polar scope calibration
Celestron has a polar scope alignment "how to" that will work with any polar scope. I like it because celestron breaks it down to simple steps with graphics.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://s3.amazonaws.com/celestron-site-support-files/support_files/1223669429_polaraxixfinder.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwjD8rGrqI3vAhUMQK0KHcwHCNoQFjAAegQIARAC&usg=AOvVaw076vH0ziID6s_0497-n6xC
It's a pdf file
Chuck On Sunday, February 28, 2021, 11:22:44 AM PST, Michael Herman <mherman346@...> wrote:
Hi Bob,
All these optical polar scopes have a moveable glass reticle (also spelled reticule) that is centered (you must do this centering optically) with 3 tiny setscrews. Sometimes the setscrews have a flat screwdriver slot, and sometimes they have a tiny allen head.??
First thing to do is focussing the optical parts: First focus the eyepiece on the reticle markings. Then unlock and screw in and out the long barrel at the end of the polar scope, until a star (or very far object like a distant treetop) is in focus. When done, both the reticle and the faraway object are both in focus for your vision.??
Next thing to do is adjust the reticle position... The key thing to know is that the reticule is glass and can be cracked...instantly... by too much pressure from the metal setscrew.? So you must back out one setscrew before you tighten down another one.? It is very tedious?to do this ... like adjusting the secondary mirror of an SCT which is a similar iterative process.??
You point your RA at a convenient target like a faraway treetop, in the daytime.? You rotate the RA axis and watch the "+" symbol that is the center of the reticle markings.? You watch that "+" symbol move.? You want to adjust the reticle position with the 3 setscrews?until you about center the "+" sign as best as possible when the RA axis rotates.? I put the?+ sign on the top of the tree when the tree image is focussed.
Now here's the rub:? It is often observed that if you loosen the front locking round black disk that holds on the polar scope... and you rotate the polar scope, that the?+ sign will no longer be centered!? This is the common observation.? This means you want to keep that polar scope in its place on the RA of the mount, or at least mark its orientation with some method (white labelmaker?tape cut in triangles works for me.)? ?But this is not the way the Losmandy polar scope is supposed to work...it is supposed to be rotated to line up Cassiopeia?or the Big Dipper and a few stars near polaris.? So... you must judge what to do.
There is a website with info about this polar scope, but it lacks the details about about practical matters.??
The better approach is to get a Polemaster electronic imaging pole camera and lens. This works very nicely, and saves your back and eyeballs.? But it is not free...naturally.? ?
All the best, Michael
On Sun, Feb 28, 2021 at 11:05 AM TeleGizmos < sales@...> wrote: Just received my GM811G, assembly complete, went quite well. Installed and checked the polar scope alignment and it's a bit out of calibration to the mount. Question is for visual observing only, how critical is spot on polar scope calibration to the mount? I know how perform calibration on a polar scope but have never bothered to concern myself with this in the past. However, this is the first mount I've owned that is go-to and want the go-to to be accurate.
If the consensus is to calibrate the polar scope, how does the Losmandy scope adjust? I can see the three opposing adjustment points however they are extremely?small openings and do not appear (under magnifying glass) to have turn-ability...as in I can not see allen screw heads or slotted screw heads.
Your help is appreciated.?
Cheers,
Bob Pitney
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Re: Losmandy Polar scope calibration
When I first got my G11, the polar scope was not well-calibrated, and as a result, I was building a model to improve go-to accuracy. Once I calibrated the polar scope, I found I merely had to do a 1-star alignment and my go-to was just fine for my visual observing.
You do need a 0.9mm Allen wrench to adjust those tiny grub screws. I could not find that at my local hardware store and had to order from McMaster-Carr (which kind of stung because there is a minimum shipping charge). Be very careful not to exert any pressure on the glass reticle because it will shatter - use very gentle fingertip pressure and be sure to loosen 1 or 2 screws before tightening the opposing one. I found it was really quite easy and quick to get it nicely calibrated, but just be careful not to exert pressure on the reticle.
-Bill
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Re: PREVIEW Part 3 of Practical Periodic Error Correction
Hi Michael
thanks for your feedback
For any future feedback on specific videos It would be great if you could start a new thread here, or better yet add your comments to the youtube?video itself. I fear your input will be buried in a thread that won't be easily found in the future
On Sun, Feb 28, 2021 at 11:08 AM Michael Herman < mherman346@...> wrote: Dear Brian,
Thank you for sharing these pre-released episodes?with me. Your experience with video shows... the Jetsons theme music is cute.??
I watched one recently on balancing?the scope load.? On that one I'd add these points:
1. put the mount at CWD and tighten down the RA clutch, before putting on or taking off the scope.?? 2. Always put or or take off the scope after the counterweights are in place...Never put on a heavy scope when the system has no counterweights.?? 3. Add all your weights to the counterweight bar before you put the scope on. 4. After you add the weights, put the "toe saver" bolt into the end of the counterweight bar.? 5. Soon as you put the scope dovetail in after the weights are on, put in the front 1/4-20 bolt to prevent it from accidentally?slipping out.? 6. Gemini-2 has a "balance" indicator (Menu / Mount / Balance).? ?Put the counterweight bar horizontally, then look at the balance indicator on the Gemini-2 unit.? Use the indicator to help perfect balance.
I'll look at the other videos when I can.? I still have to get my G-2 unit internet connected!? I did get one of those yellow Internet wireless boxes and I used them to connect my older Pioneer receivers to get internet radio.? Now to use one for the Gemini-2 too.??
__________
One of the two new gearboxes I got from you has a tight spot in the gearbox rotation. Feeling the rotation by hand, it has a slight tightness on one spot, but not as bad as another gearbox (the RA gearbox of the G11T that I got).? The other gearbox I got from you seems better.??
I suggest you hand rotate the output shaft of your stock of gearboxes and look for ones that have this tight spot in the drive axle rotation.? Surprisingly this stuff does show up in the PE because the Gemini motor and Gemini drive is sensitive to its drive current.? If you find defective gearboxes, you can complain to your supplier as you have volume purchasing power.??
Stay well and safe, Michael
On Tue, Jul 7, 2020 at 11:00 PM Brian Valente < brian@...> wrote: Preview just for you! ? This covers the basic PEMPro settings for data collection ?
? I felt a bit rushed so let me know if this content works for you ? ? ? Thanks ? Brian ? Brian Valente Losmandy Astronomical ? Losmandy.com Tutorials and vids at ?
--
-- Brian?
Brian Valente portfolio
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Re: Losmandy Polar scope calibration
Hi Bob,
All these optical polar scopes have a moveable glass reticle (also spelled reticule) that is centered (you must do this centering optically) with 3 tiny setscrews. Sometimes the setscrews have a flat screwdriver slot, and sometimes they have a tiny allen head.??
First thing to do is focussing the optical parts: First focus the eyepiece on the reticle markings. Then unlock and screw in and out the long barrel at the end of the polar scope, until a star (or very far object like a distant treetop) is in focus. When done, both the reticle and the faraway object are both in focus for your vision.??
Next thing to do is adjust the reticle position... The key thing to know is that the reticule is glass and can be cracked...instantly... by too much pressure from the metal setscrew.? So you must back out one setscrew before you tighten down another one.? It is very tedious?to do this ... like adjusting the secondary mirror of an SCT which is a similar iterative process.??
You point your RA at a convenient target like a faraway treetop, in the daytime.? You rotate the RA axis and watch the "+" symbol that is the center of the reticle markings.? You watch that "+" symbol move.? You want to adjust the reticle position with the 3 setscrews?until you about center the "+" sign as best as possible when the RA axis rotates.? I put the?+ sign on the top of the tree when the tree image is focussed.
Now here's the rub:? It is often observed that if you loosen the front locking round black disk that holds on the polar scope... and you rotate the polar scope, that the?+ sign will no longer be centered!? This is the common observation.? This means you want to keep that polar scope in its place on the RA of the mount, or at least mark its orientation with some method (white labelmaker?tape cut in triangles works for me.)? ?But this is not the way the Losmandy polar scope is supposed to work...it is supposed to be rotated to line up Cassiopeia?or the Big Dipper and a few stars near polaris.? So... you must judge what to do.
There is a website with info about this polar scope, but it lacks the details about about practical matters.??
The better approach is to get a Polemaster electronic imaging pole camera and lens. This works very nicely, and saves your back and eyeballs.? But it is not free...naturally.? ?
All the best, Michael
On Sun, Feb 28, 2021 at 11:05 AM TeleGizmos < sales@...> wrote: Just received my GM811G, assembly complete, went quite well. Installed and checked the polar scope alignment and it's a bit out of calibration to the mount. Question is for visual observing only, how critical is spot on polar scope calibration to the mount? I know how perform calibration on a polar scope but have never bothered to concern myself with this in the past. However, this is the first mount I've owned that is go-to and want the go-to to be accurate.
If the consensus is to calibrate the polar scope, how does the Losmandy scope adjust? I can see the three opposing adjustment points however they are extremely?small openings and do not appear (under magnifying glass) to have turn-ability...as in I can not see allen screw heads or slotted screw heads.
Your help is appreciated.?
Cheers,
Bob Pitney
|
Re: PREVIEW Part 3 of Practical Periodic Error Correction
Dear Brian,
Thank you for sharing these pre-released episodes?with me. Your experience with video shows... the Jetsons theme music is cute.??
I watched one recently on balancing?the scope load.? On that one I'd add these points:
1. put the mount at CWD and tighten down the RA clutch, before putting on or taking off the scope.?? 2. Always put or or take off the scope after the counterweights are in place...Never put on a heavy scope when the system has no counterweights.?? 3. Add all your weights to the counterweight bar before you put the scope on. 4. After you add the weights, put the "toe saver" bolt into the end of the counterweight bar.? 5. Soon as you put the scope dovetail in after the weights are on, put in the front 1/4-20 bolt to prevent it from accidentally?slipping out.? 6. Gemini-2 has a "balance" indicator (Menu / Mount / Balance).? ?Put the counterweight bar horizontally, then look at the balance indicator on the Gemini-2 unit.? Use the indicator to help perfect balance.
I'll look at the other videos when I can.? I still have to get my G-2 unit internet connected!? I did get one of those yellow Internet wireless boxes and I used them to connect my older Pioneer receivers to get internet radio.? Now to use one for the Gemini-2 too.??
__________
One of the two new gearboxes I got from you has a tight spot in the gearbox rotation. Feeling the rotation by hand, it has a slight tightness on one spot, but not as bad as another gearbox (the RA gearbox of the G11T that I got).? The other gearbox I got from you seems better.??
I suggest you hand rotate the output shaft of your stock of gearboxes and look for ones that have this tight spot in the drive axle rotation.? Surprisingly this stuff does show up in the PE because the Gemini motor and Gemini drive is sensitive to its drive current.? If you find defective gearboxes, you can complain to your supplier as you have volume purchasing power.??
Stay well and safe, Michael
On Tue, Jul 7, 2020 at 11:00 PM Brian Valente < brian@...> wrote: Preview just for you! ? This covers the basic PEMPro settings for data collection ?
? I felt a bit rushed so let me know if this content works for you ? ? ? Thanks ? Brian ? Brian Valente Losmandy Astronomical ? Losmandy.com Tutorials and vids at ?
|
Losmandy Polar scope calibration
Just received my GM811G, assembly complete, went quite well. Installed and checked the polar scope alignment and it's a bit out of calibration to the mount. Question is for visual observing only, how critical is spot on polar scope calibration to the mount? I know how perform calibration on a polar scope but have never bothered to concern myself with this in the past. However, this is the first mount I've owned that is go-to and want the go-to to be accurate.
If the consensus is to calibrate the polar scope, how does the Losmandy scope adjust? I can see the three opposing adjustment points however they are extremely?small openings and do not appear (under magnifying glass) to have turn-ability...as in I can not see allen screw heads or slotted screw heads.
Your help is appreciated.?
Cheers,
Bob Pitney
|
Re: Guiding without Gemini
Great advice George.? Let me explain why I said in my first response that OnStep is a lot of work.? It does not have to be if you know what to build, like the kit that you sell.? I chose to go the more COTS part (fewer features, but almost no soldering) based way and design my own pin map, which requires tracking the pins from CPU to Arduino clone board to CNCv3 board.? This was because the stable version had no CNCv3 support at the time IIRC, while the later versions that are stable enough, do - I chose the stable version.? I just wanted the basic features and use a Pi for the high level control and also WiFi.? Then in addition to the Wemos Arduino clone I got a Teensy 4.0 additionally, and just spent a lot of time playing with parts and combinations, different drivers, and the code too.? None of that is necessary so if you select something standard from the OnStep Wiki, which makes it a lot easier.? And absolutely, the OnStep user groups is very helpful, many members go to extreme lengths to help if you can't get it working.
Maybe someday Losmandy can support this with a partial BOM for an easy-to-make OnStep system.? It would be a great help to include BOM links to suitable female ethernet connectors for the motors, flexible ethernet cables, stepper motors, flex connectors for the motor shaft and custom connector plates for the stepper motors (or specifications on how to build them - a flat square plate with hole locations, basically), and proper screws.? For instance, soldering the motor cables to the crappy connectors that I bought was a major PITA, if someone had pointed me to the right stuff online it would save some aggravation.? I could probably help with that so long as it's not for a belt driven tucked away motor.? For the actual controller choice, see the OnStep site.? It would also be good to point at higher level control hardware and firmware in a small package alongside such as a Pi that runs Ekos, or any Ascom or Alpaca based Windows alternative.? The Pi with Ekos lets me get away with a very basic OnStep system, yet it is a powerful combination combined.
I got the G11S because of the budget limit I had set, and also because I wanted to buy a US made system.? I figured I could build my own controller, from scratch, or find a vendor kit.? My first move was to get a cheap Losmandy goto kit from a commercial vendor.? I could not get it working probably mostly due to mechanical problems in retrospect (by no fault of that vendor's kit), and switched to OnStep just to have full control over my build, including the firmware.? I re-used the mounting plates and flex connectors from the kit, and after I built my DIY spring loaded worms and the Ekos/OnStep system I finally had an operational working system.? It could be a marketing opportunity for people with a limited budget, or for upgrading old systems cheaply that have no working or adequate controller.? So there are alternatives, not just through OnStep.
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Re: Guiding without Gemini
Sounds like one giant step backwards to me.
--
SonnyE
(I suggest viewed in full screen)
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Re: Guiding without Gemini
I'm a recovering attorney, Jim (19 years without lawyering), not an EE. My dad left Pratt after 2 years of ME and returned to the farm, so some of that rubbed off.?
I recommend Losmandy products quite frequently, based on their quality and support. However, I've never been a great fan of the Gemini systems, if only on the basis of cost. A system that adds a grand or more to a mount when?the competition asks half or less for theirs leads to folk opting for a lot of bad mounts and buggy systems.
I have always championed used equipment for anyone getting into the hobby. First, if one buys intelligently they can usually bail out without too great a financial?loss. Buy new and you are always going to lose at least 25% of your outlay. Second, the stuff that is more durable is going to be pretty well known after the free field testing by early adopters.
Used Losmandy equipment usually commands a premium on the used market. I've never purchased an unused Losmandy mount. Nor one with an original Gemini. A recent purchase was a "mature" G11 head with the 492 system for $900, a fairly typical price. I sold the system parts for $175. So now I have a $725 G11 with no drive. Should I shop for a Gemini 1? Drop $2K on a new Gemini? Or should I just spend $150 on an OnStep goto controller and the system's drive components?
You raise the issue of support. I doubt I can email Losmandy and get the almost instant support that I can get from the OnStep community or even the chief programmers? Does the Gemini firmware?get constant testing and frequent upgrades??
I'd estimate there are about a thousand OnStep systems in use. I have shipped about 500 in the last 18 months and Paypal tells me my shipments?are up 24% from last year and order value is up 49%. This is in spite of my decision to drop my biggest seller due to what I felt was its limited features and ability to handle future upgrades as similarly priced options.
An additional argument for non-proprietary systems is that they restore functionality to? deceased equipment with proprietary systems. Think ASCG-5GTs. This out of production goto mount that sold for $700, as much as a used 492 GM-80, has a fairly high failure rate. A motor control board, if one can be found is about $200. It also has experienced troubled servo encoders, bad power panels and electrical connectors. With OnStep it can be put back to work with a few more features for less than $100. Just saves me a few more trips to the scrap yard.
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Re: Guiding without Gemini
Liam....you got these good answers...a summary:
Is Gemini required for auto-guiding or for dithering? ? ? No.? There are several alternatives ?Or can those functions be accomplished well with a laptop connected to a GM8S or G11S without Gemini? ? ? Yes.??
?Any suggestions on the major pro¡¯s and con¡¯s with operating without Gemini? ? ? Gemini offers proven compatibility with Losmandy mounts ? ? Gemini (G-2 upgrade kit is like $1100-$1400? has motors and cables and a Gemini-2 unit)? is more costly than some alternatives, but proven mechanical and software operation. You are paying for that engineering work done for you in advance.? ? ? The Losmandy 492 digital drive unit is like $400 and each stepper motor for that is like $150, but you can find the entire kit used for a low price when someone decides to upgrade to another system.? This can't do GoTo by itself but can track well and autiguide with an ST4 cable. ? ? Henk has explained his successful implementation of an OnStep stepper motor control system.? This is also inexpensive maybe less than the 492.? But it requires some work to fit it.? ?This can do Go-to and computer control.? You save money by doing this adaptation work ...and Henk and others who've solved it can help ease that effort.? Some folk told me they tried and gave up their effort, but many did do it and could advise you.? ? ? ?? ?It looks like Gemini comes with different motors, right? Does that make a difference?
The Gemini operates using "servo" motors.? These are DC motors, that get no current, or get a reversing current supply (from the Gemini) to hold their position.? The gemini knows the rotation position of the motor from an optical encoder installed inside the back of the motor housing.? That has 256 marks, so the gemini knows the motor rotation to that level of precision.? That motor output is further divided by a gearbox that has 25:1 ratio...so the motor angle is divided by 25.? The worm is turned by the gearbox and the worm connects with a large diameter gear with either 180 (GM8), or 360 (G11) or 270 (G11T or Titan) teeth.? This gives the system sub arcsec control of the mount pointing.??
Other motor systems use stepper motors that use separate windings inside the motor to pull it's rotor to any fixed position.? There are now amazing methods to "microstrip" the rotation.? (Does the OnStep stepper motor also need a gearbox?? I'm not sure).? The older 492 stepper motors have an ovoid gearbox built in with the motor.? I don't know if the 492 microstep or not, but they work smoothly for tracking or autoguiding.? They can be autoguided...the 492 needs an simple ST4 cable.??
The Gemini can use an ST4 cable or skip that and pulse guide with ASCOM computer commands sent via it's serial port.? Both methods work well.? The ST4 cable is small and light...but getting rid of another cable may save a snag or bad cable connection in the dark some night.? OnStep is computer controlled too and can probably use ASCOM commands for pulseguiding.??
Decisions decisions!??
Have fun, Michael
? ??
Liam,
The majority of Losmandy owners, at least those on this forum, seem to have the Gemini control system. That being the case, there are many who can advise you with mount operation, guiding, and trouble shooting. Also the Gemini will accept upload of PEC curves from PEMPro, to further smooth guiding performance. Once you get into astrophotography, the price of the Gemini unit is not that much of the whole expense, compared with scopes, cameras, filters, auto focusers, etc.
For guiding, ST4 seems like it is becoming less used, with direct mount control over USB or Ethernet supposedly more responsive. If you have the expertise to use some of the less expensive control units that is fine too. But you may not have the same level of tech support from the forum or the manufacturer. Just my opinion, others may advise differently.
Best Regards,
John
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Re: PREVIEW Part 3 of Practical Periodic Error Correction
I¡¯ll try in a week or so, all packed up now ¨C and cloudy. ? Thanks ? ? ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Ray Gralak
Sent: Sunday, 28 February 2021 2:52 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users_io] PREVIEW Part 3 of Practical Periodic Error Correction? Hi Richard, ? Have you tried creating a Pec curve with the 0.2x rate in PEMPro? Then set the guide rate to 0.2x. I think drift you are seeing should be reduced. ? -Ray ? ? Hi Brian ? YES ¨C was having trouble with drift when PEC ON and then with the Gemini Drift Compensation tool in PEMPro. Basically could not get it to ¡°converge¡±. ? Hence interested in Part 4 and hoping you got past the drift issue, you must have as I understand you use PEMPro PEC with your Losmandy mounts. ? Ray said I have some strange frequency that he hadn¡¯t seen before. He was going to look at it some more, ¡¡¡. ? ? I will try again in a week or so when the skies allow. Do it all again on a single night and see what happens. Send Ray the logs etc. ? Cheers ? ? Those were not released videos.? There is eventually going to be a full series, but we are working with Ray right now to fine tune PEMPro for Gemini, so we are likely going to re-do this from the start Richard I think i saw some comments from you in the PEMPro forum? ? These are the three ; ?
? ? ? ? ? Where did this come from (so I can see all the parts)?? ? Derek ? ? Hi All
Is there a Part 4 somewhere ?
--
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Re: PREVIEW Part 3 of Practical Periodic Error Correction
Hi Richard, ? Have you tried creating a Pec curve with the 0.2x rate in PEMPro? Then set the guide rate to 0.2x. I think drift you are seeing should be reduced. ? -Ray ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Richard Triglavcanin
Sent: Saturday, February 27, 2021 10:40 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users_io] PREVIEW Part 3 of Practical Periodic Error Correction? Hi Brian ? YES ¨C was having trouble with drift when PEC ON and then with the Gemini Drift Compensation tool in PEMPro. Basically could not get it to ¡°converge¡±. ? Hence interested in Part 4 and hoping you got past the drift issue, you must have as I understand you use PEMPro PEC with your Losmandy mounts. ? Ray said I have some strange frequency that he hadn¡¯t seen before. He was going to look at it some more, ¡¡¡. ? ? I will try again in a week or so when the skies allow. Do it all again on a single night and see what happens. Send Ray the logs etc. ? Cheers ? ? Those were not released videos.? There is eventually going to be a full series, but we are working with Ray right now to fine tune PEMPro for Gemini, so we are likely going to re-do this from the start Richard I think i saw some comments from you in the PEMPro forum? ? These are the three ; ?
?
?
? ? ? Where did this come from (so I can see all the parts)?? ? Derek ? ? Hi All
Is there a Part 4 somewhere ?
--
|
Re: PREVIEW Part 3 of Practical Periodic Error Correction
Hi Brian ? YES ¨C was having trouble with drift when PEC ON and then with the Gemini Drift Compensation tool in PEMPro. Basically could not get it to ¡°converge¡±. ? Hence interested in Part 4 and hoping you got past the drift issue, you must have as I understand you use PEMPro PEC with your Losmandy mounts. ? Ray said I have some strange frequency that he hadn¡¯t seen before. He was going to look at it some more, ¡¡¡. ? ? I will try again in a week or so when the skies allow. Do it all again on a single night and see what happens. Send Ray the logs etc. ? Cheers ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Brian Valente
Sent: Sunday, 28 February 2021 1:20 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users_io] PREVIEW Part 3 of Practical Periodic Error Correction? Those were not released videos.? There is eventually going to be a full series, but we are working with Ray right now to fine tune PEMPro for Gemini, so we are likely going to re-do this from the start Richard I think i saw some comments from you in the PEMPro forum? ? These are the three ; ?
? ? ? ? ? Where did this come from (so I can see all the parts)?? ? Derek ? ? Hi All
Is there a Part 4 somewhere ?
--
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Chip Louie
Michael Herman