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Re: Connecting laptop to ST-4 input on GM8
Thanks for your suggestions.? I may look for a relatively inexpensive used autoguiding camera that has an ST-4 port, or perhaps a GPUSB converter, but in the meantime, I will try using an ancient (1984?) ST-4 camera that connects directly to the mount.? ?? |
Re: 492 DDS
Also best not to cross post the same question between forums. ?Most people monitoring Losmandy also monitor Gemini forums. ?
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Re: Stellarium Mac - csnnot setup a new telescope connection.
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Thanks but if i do that the while program freezes. you have to enable it to access telescopes. It works fine on PC, i don't know much about the Mac version.? On Fri, Oct 9, 2020 at 11:16 AM Dave_Kentsbeer <david.kentsbeer47@...> wrote: Thanks but if i do that the while program freezes. --
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Re: Stellarium Mac - csnnot setup a new telescope connection.
Did you check "load at startup" and restart stellarium? telescope plugin needs to load before you can configure it On Fri, Oct 9, 2020 at 11:13 AM Dave_Kentsbeer <david.kentsbeer47@...> wrote: Hi All, --
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Re: Stellarium Mac - csnnot setup a new telescope connection.
You have to check the box "Load at startup" and restart the application. Then the configure option should be enabled. At least that's how it worked for me Guilherme On Fri, Oct 9, 2020 at 11:13 AM Dave_Kentsbeer <david.kentsbeer47@...> wrote: Hi All, |
Re: Connecting laptop to ST-4 input on GM8
Hi One simple option to allow PHD2 to guide with the 492 controller (besides using a camera with an auto guider port as mentioned above) is to use a GPUSB adapter. This device connects to your computer via USB, and to your GM8 mount via the ST4 port (the HC port on the controller). I've used it for 10+ years without problem before moving to a GoTo controller with OnStep.? Guilherme On Fri, Oct 9, 2020 at 6:30 AM Brendan Smith <brenatlilydale@...> wrote:
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Re: Connecting laptop to ST-4 input on GM8
Steve?
You can probably find one cheap. Losmandy has s a manual about the . ? Have a read ?? One think that camera that camera The isn’t an ST4 output camera. ?You cannot use it to guide the GM8 directly. ?You may be able to use a Interface. ?You can also use it in USB as a guider but it has no ST4 output format ? I recently repaired a 482 DD unit and sent the user a document on all this recently ? I can send you a copy if you email me ? I’ll need your email address. The. 492DD Units are nice decent units. ?Yes they have limitations like no goto and sow slew rates (16x sidereal max) but it’ll return good service and will guide just fine as said.? -- |
Re: Moving Ahead With My Losmandy G11 / Gemini-1
Nice Deric - that's the way to do it On Thu, Oct 8, 2020 at 4:35 PM Deric Caselli <JethroStCyr@...> wrote: Way to go Michael, --
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Re: Astronomy software & capture software
Sonny Edmonds
I abhor recurring charge crap. The only one I've signed on for is , but I did that before I even got it working for me, based on reputation. Then I found a video, and followed it. As well as Brian's advice to get my first "solve" in Polar Alignment. Now that I can run it fairly well, I enjoy trying to get it as close to all zero's
That said, I'm all for the Open Sourced stuff. It is usually free as well. I use Gemini Telescope, Stellarium, PHD2, Tight Vnc, and the software download for my Atik Infinky Camera. most of us newbies know, and is excellent with Losmandy mounts. I've used for going on 6 years now, but probably only actual mount control for 4-5 now. But I find it amazing for finding and having it slew the telescope to the object. And now, with my 811, it's even more amazing. I start as soon as it settles, then take some images to see if I want to adjust the centering or not. ?is a program I use when I want to go inside and run the rig remotely. It opens the Mount computer desktop on my inside computer displays and lets me run everything from inside, just like I was setting outside. My Atik Infiniky has it's own program to run the camera and collect images. Then I just save them to my Micro SD card. It currently has years of imaging on it, plus back up programs I can restore to my Baby Dell mount computer if need be. -- SonnyE (I suggest viewed in full screen) |
Connecting laptop to ST-4 input on GM8
This is my first post to this group. ?I have appreciated the insights from past messages as I have disassembled, cleaned, and lubricated a new-to-me, twenty-year old, GM8.?
Steve |
Re: Moving Ahead With My Losmandy G11 / Gemini-1
Sonny Edmonds
I love a happy ending!
Kudo's to Michael for the save! I got 2 of these and applied them every where I could on my Gemini 2 and mount computer. (I'm still short 3 )? When I lived in Wyoming, I used a product called Insulex that was a spray. We had a weigh in motion Xray machine on a discharge belt from the crusher building. It had a history of being problematic. We took all the PS boards out of it, cleaned them well, then sprayed them with the Insulex and dried them well. That was the end of all erratic behaviors. The ore was metallic (Uranium) and was very hard on the electrical system. I put the plugs in for dust intrusion. I live in a semi-arid location so dew and damp is a rarity. But still something to consider. With my Gemini II controller, I have one of those Touch Pad pens I keep in in the coiled wire by the controller. Because like many, touch pads don't work for me, either. But the arrow button pad works fine on the back side. -- SonnyE (I suggest viewed in full screen) |
Re: Moving Ahead With My Losmandy G11 / Gemini-1
Hi Russ, have a look at ACF50, it is an anti corrosion oil so may be a bit tacky but can be used on any surface including electrical connections, I have been using it for years on my motor bike and I do not worry if it gets sprayed on the electrical components, like you I live near the sea but have never any corrosion issues since using it, apparently it was developed for the US air force to stop thier planes corroding so must be good stuff. Must admit it never crossed my mind but I think I will coat the vulnerable components with it myself.
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Re: Moving Ahead With My Losmandy G11 / Gemini-1
Very nice complete report, Russ.? I am happy that repair ordeal is over.? Use it in good health and have fun! More of the puzzle story....a long story: As Russ said, this was a weird Gemini-1 behavior.? The unit would boot up, then the display would get "stuck" before it would say it was seeking the GPS. A button press on the hand controller would unfreeze the display and it would say waiting for GPS then... get stuck again, with some garbled characters at the end.? Replacing the hand controller, or CPU, or EPROM chips gave the same behavior.? Why would the display get stuck?? And why would the East diamond button on the hand controller not work? Bren had warned about corrosion effects and I've seen this before.? One unit I got looked like it had been left in the rain and it was just rusting, destroying the copper traces of the board.? So I inspected for corrosion on receipt, but did not see anything noteworthy. I did see some clues though: The main board inside showed a slight bit of mild corrosion at the bottom where the 5V DC DC converter power circuit resides.? But that voltage converter was working fine.?? Since the CPU, EPROM and hand controller were known good, my suspicions went to the SRAM providing code data to the CPU.? The SRAM was leaking current more than it should.? And the D1 dual Schottky diode was also dropping the 5V supply to the SRAM by 0.37 volts and that causes the CPU chip and SRAM chip connections to fight and damage each other. The chips must see no more than 0.25 V between their Vcc values.? I therefore replaced both chips (D1 first was easiest...but did not fix the trouble) and the voltage drop went to 0.2 volts that was fine.?? But the boot up problem remained.? Then I tried talking to the unit through the serial port (another suspect chip) and...it worked perfectly.? I could operate the Gemini perfectly remotely, just not from the hand controller.? How strange.? I reported my progress and puzzles all along to Bren in Australia and David in UK.? They always help a lot with their experience in these repairs.?? At that point David Partridge suggested looking at the extra hand controller socket at the top left of the Gemini unit and then...voila! I saw the suspicious discoloration.? After scraping away at that, the the unit came back to life.? I then found more corrosion inside the connector, cleaned with Qtips and alcohol.? I tested the unit for motor control, and serial port operation...all good again.?? Curious: one of the front stainless steel button head screws finish was dulled.? The other ones were bright and shiny.?? But I did not look into the extra hand socket connector: I thought, who ever uses that?? The corrosion was inside there in that dark black socket. The copper wires in there had also turned very dark color. Here is a photo of the damaged corroded area.? I have started scraping out the corrosion with a file.? There was even more corrosion if you view the same connector from the right side if the board looking left.? Strangely, the corrosion was just conductive enough to make Gemini think someone was pushing a hand controller button (probably the East diamond hand controller button).?? I like all the ideas you have mentioned, and Brian's idea of a plug sounds great. I'll buy some of those.? ? ? The Gemini-1 has many open spaces around the front top connectors, and the side hand controller, for moisture and bugs to enter.? I have used slices of thick felt to stuff into these crevices, to try and better weatherproof my many Gemini-1 units.?? For a better dessicant, there is a benign product called "silica gel". You see this in small packages added to many electronic and optics packages for shipping.? You can reheat those to drive out the moisture, and reuse them.? Stay away from salts... when hydrated they form conductive ionic solutions that corrode and plate too.? Sulfur salts can form a sulfuric acid that eats the copper and replates it (copper dendrites?).? One of our group's chemistry experts is sure to know how this stuff works.? I wonder if living by the nice salt air of the ocean, as Russ does in Coos Bay Oregon may have additional risks (LA beach communities too?).? Stay well and happy imaging! Michael On Wed, Oct 7, 2020, 9:34 PM <russmilt@...> wrote: How pleased I continue to be with my 2008 version of Losmandy G-11. After 12 years the?Gemini-1?electronics had quite working. On the recommendation several persons on different forums I entrusted the repair to Michael Herman. So I can add myself to the those who have been vary satisfied with the work he did in getting the repair accomplished. His expertise was very much in evidence. He admitted that the symptoms were very strange, puzzling to himself and the other Losmandy electronic repair specialists in the UK and Australia. But he didn't give up and expeditiously finished the job by an intelligent process - testing, replacing suspect parts. Eventually the EPROM, SRAM chips were replaced along with some smaller discrete components. He eventually tracked down the cause of the issue. |
Re: Astronomy software & capture software
开云体育Hi Tony, Compatibility with the Gemini 2 is pretty easy. ?Years ago, Meade developed the LX200 command set and made that available as a standard to anyone who wanted to use it. Not everyone took them up on their offer ... so the dream of having just one telescope command set never really happened. ?BUT there are a lot of mounts that did take advantage of it ... and that includes the Gemini. ?It is based on the LX200 command set. ? This means if your software specifically says it supports Losmandy Gemini, then that's the choice you would use. ?But even if you don't see "Losmandy Gemini" on the list... just pick a generic LX200 telescope mount and it will work. I don't think I have ever found a single application that can support "go to" telescope mounts... that did *not* work with the Gemini. It's hard to say what's "best" because that becomes subjective. ?Also... budgets come into the equation because when some people say "best" what they really mean is "best free software". ? Often times commercial software that isn't free is better (but not always). When I started, I was mostly looking at The Sky X (Software Bisque) or Starry Night Pro Plus (Simulation Curriculum). ?I went with Starry Night mostly because it was more user-friendly. ?I would later learn it's actually a LOT more powerful (it is a full-on simulation engine ... The Sky is not. ?It has some pretty clever advanced search capabilities that can do event predictions.) Back in those days, Stellarium wasn't very capable. ?These days Stellarium is much more capable (Stellarium is free). ?It isn't as powerful, but it may be good enough for your needs. ? But there's also KStars/Ekos (also free) and the benefit of KStars/Ekos is that all the image sequencing and capture software is built-in ... no need for separate apps. If you run Windows, then you probably want something that supports ASCOM. ?If you are not running Windows (e.g. if you have a mac, Linux, or any other OS) then you want something that supports INDI. ? ASCOM is developed using Microsoft .Net and that means it *only* supports Windows and is not portable to any other OS. ? INDI is developed based on POSIX-compliant code (POSIX=Portable Operating System Interchange standard). ?POSIX-compliant code is easy to port to other POSIX-complaint operating systems. ?E.g. Unix, Linux, macOS, etc. are all examples of POSIX-compliant operating systems. ? Windows is *not* POSIX-compliant. Most target devices are meant to be controlled by just one thing. ?E.g. if the planetarium software is controlling the mount ... and the auto-guider software is *also* trying to control the mount (e.g. to perform pulse-guiding or dithering) then you end up with a conflict. ?ASCOM & INDI solve this by acting as a middle-man. ?It becomes the only thing that has a real connection to your gear ... and everything else talks through it. E.g. if you order the mount to 'go to' some target, the software really tells the agent (ASCOM or INDI) what you want to do ... and ASCOM or INDI control the mount (or cameras, or filter wheels, or focuser, or dome, etc. etc. etc.). ? It controls your gear and then returns the results back to whichever application made the request. ?ASCOM & INID mediate sharing the gear across all the software (but those software must have support for ASCOM or INDI). What's "best" for me ... is a highly portable solution. ?I live in a very old neighborhood with a lot of very tall oak trees. ?I don't have a clear view to the sky (other than straight up to the zenith) from any location on my property. ?I *have* to load all my gear into the car and head out to a park to do any observing or imaging. ? This means "best" for me is small/compact & lightweight. ?I have no power in the park except what I bring with me and 12v lead-acid batteries are heavy. ?A laptop can run for a while on it's internal battery ... but usually not all night. ?And that would mean bringing even more batteries.? Instead... I use a Raspberry Pi and an iPad. ?The Raspberry Pi is a tiny $35 computer about the size of a deck of cards. ?It uses very little power (runs on 5v and a *maximum* of 3 amps but usually draws less than 1 amp. ?That means the *most* it can draw is 15 watts but usually isn't drawing more than 5 watts (compare that to a laptop which is probably drawing 70 watts even when they are idle). ?BTW, there have been may Raspberry Pi computers over the years. ?When we say "Raspberry Pi" what we really mean is the "Raspberry Pi 4 Model B" -- that's the current best generation. ? The Raspberry Pi runs the StellarMate OS software. ?What this *really* means is it runs Raspberry Pi OS bundled with a suite of astronomy applications. ? At the core it uses INDI to control all the gear. ? It uses KStars/Ekos as the planetarium software and to set up and run the capture sequence. ?However there is also a StellarMate iPad app (also available on Android ... you can use iOS devices or Android devices). ?But the engine running everything is *really* on the Raspberry Pi. ?This means you do not need to keep the tablet running ... you really just use that as the interface to tell it what you want to capture and launch the job. ? Then you put the tablet down and the Raspberry Pi will take it from there.? This translate into a lot of choice for you because a lot of software is compatible with either ASCOM (on Windows) or INDI (on everything else). Clear Skies, Tim On Oct 8, 2020, at 1:44 AM, Magnus Larsson <magnus@...> wrote:
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Re: Moving Ahead With My Losmandy G11 / Gemini-1
Hi Russ Ethernet is RJ-45. the various serial ports are RJ-11 You can find silicone or plastic port plugs for either On Wed, Oct 7, 2020 at 11:47 PM <russmilt@...> wrote: Thanks Brian for your useful comments. So am I correct in identifying the network type connector sockets as RJ-11 rather than RJ-45? If so I can get the correct Teflon plug. This can be inserted with a thin layer of Dielectric/Teflon paste to further seal against water intrusion. This can be renewed as needed. --
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