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Re: Moving Ahead With My Losmandy G11 / Gemini-1


 

Very nice complete report, Russ.? I am happy that repair ordeal is over.? Use it in good health and have fun!


More of the puzzle story....a long story:

As Russ said, this was a weird Gemini-1 behavior.? The unit would boot up, then the display would get "stuck" before it would say it was seeking the GPS. A button press on the hand controller would unfreeze the display and it would say waiting for GPS then... get stuck again, with some garbled characters at the end.? Replacing the hand controller, or CPU, or EPROM chips gave the same behavior.? Why would the display get stuck?? And why would the East diamond button on the hand controller not work?

Bren had warned about corrosion effects and I've seen this before.? One unit I got looked like it had been left in the rain and it was just rusting, destroying the copper traces of the board.? So I inspected for corrosion on receipt, but did not see anything noteworthy. I did see some clues though:

The main board inside showed a slight bit of mild corrosion at the bottom where the 5V DC DC converter power circuit resides.? But that voltage converter was working fine.??

Since the CPU, EPROM and hand controller were known good, my suspicions went to the SRAM providing code data to the CPU.? The SRAM was leaking current more than it should.? And the D1 dual Schottky diode was also dropping the 5V supply to the SRAM by 0.37 volts and that causes the CPU chip and SRAM chip connections to fight and damage each other. The chips must see no more than 0.25 V between their Vcc values.? I therefore replaced both chips (D1 first was easiest...but did not fix the trouble) and the voltage drop went to 0.2 volts that was fine.??

But the boot up problem remained.? Then I tried talking to the unit through the serial port (another suspect chip) and...it worked perfectly.? I could operate the Gemini perfectly remotely, just not from the hand controller.? How strange.? I reported my progress and puzzles all along to Bren in Australia and David in UK.? They always help a lot with their experience in these repairs.??

At that point David Partridge suggested looking at the extra hand controller socket at the top left of the Gemini unit and then...voila! I saw the suspicious discoloration.? After scraping away at that, the the unit came back to life.? I then found more corrosion inside the connector, cleaned with Qtips and alcohol.? I tested the unit for motor control, and serial port operation...all good again.??

Curious: one of the front stainless steel button head screws finish was dulled.? The other ones were bright and shiny.??

But I did not look into the extra hand socket connector: I thought, who ever uses that?? The corrosion was inside there in that dark black socket. The copper wires in there had also turned very dark color.

Here is a photo of the damaged corroded area.? I have started scraping out the corrosion with a file.? There was even more corrosion if you view the same connector from the right side if the board looking left.? Strangely, the corrosion was just conductive enough to make Gemini think someone was pushing a hand controller button (probably the East diamond hand controller button).??

I like all the ideas you have mentioned, and Brian's idea of a plug sounds great. I'll buy some of those.? ?
?
The Gemini-1 has many open spaces around the front top connectors, and the side hand controller, for moisture and bugs to enter.? I have used slices of thick felt to stuff into these crevices, to try and better weatherproof my many Gemini-1 units.??

For a better dessicant, there is a benign product called "silica gel". You see this in small packages added to many electronic and optics packages for shipping.? You can reheat those to drive out the moisture, and reuse them.? Stay away from salts... when hydrated they form conductive ionic solutions that corrode and plate too.? Sulfur salts can form a sulfuric acid that eats the copper and replates it (copper dendrites?).? One of our group's chemistry experts is sure to know how this stuff works.? I wonder if living by the nice salt air of the ocean, as Russ does in Coos Bay Oregon may have additional risks (LA beach communities too?).?

Stay well and happy imaging!

Michael


On Wed, Oct 7, 2020, 9:34 PM <russmilt@...> wrote:
How pleased I continue to be with my 2008 version of Losmandy G-11. After 12 years the?Gemini-1?electronics had quite working. On the recommendation several persons on different forums I entrusted the repair to Michael Herman. So I can add myself to the those who have been vary satisfied with the work he did in getting the repair accomplished. His expertise was very much in evidence. He admitted that the symptoms were very strange, puzzling to himself and the other Losmandy electronic repair specialists in the UK and Australia. But he didn't give up and expeditiously finished the job by an intelligent process - testing, replacing suspect parts. Eventually the EPROM, SRAM chips were replaced along with some smaller discrete components. He eventually tracked down the cause of the issue.

That issue was the result of an accident I had a couple of months ago. Let me explain. My G11/Gemini-1 had resided on a permanent pier in my garden observing site. At the conclusion of each observing session I had been covering the mount and electronics with a Telegizmo cover topped with a large plastic garbage can to provide some protection against our sometimes fierce winds here on the south Oregon coast. Since the mount usually had a significant amount of dew on it I thought it wise to place an open container of Calcium-Chloride crystals to absorb the moisture.?

So the accident I mentioned happened when I uncovered the mount for an observing session. This caused the container of Ca-Cl solution to spill, with significant quantity of the salt solution getting on the base of the mount and the Gemini electronics chassis. I wiped off what I could and continued with the observing session. This was a mistake on my part. I should have recognized the damage this could cause and thoroughly cleaned all mount and electronics components that were covered with this corrosive solution. Yes, I didn't realize that Calcium chloride as a salt solution is corrosive to metal, that could be damaging to all sorts of parts. So the cause of the issue Michael discovered was that some Ca-Cl had gotten into the "Hand Controller" RJ45 socket at the upper left corner of the chassis. This caused a short between some of the contacts there, leading to the bizarre symptoms that had him and the other experts puzzled.

So kudos to Michael for fixing the problem. Since he spent a number of hours over several days on the repair, his charge of $200 plus parts was most reasonable. The only part he charged for was $25 for the EPROM. Along with that came the latest version of software (Level 4, v 1.05). I wholeheartedly recommend him for any repairs to electronics that might be needed.

Moving forward from this I found the electronics works just fine. I needed to set geographic coordinates and mount limits. But everything worked as expected for two observing sessions. First night I used my little Astrotech AT115 EDT triplet APO refractor. The next night I installed my Celestron-11 with the refractor riding piggyback. This requires 53 pounds of counterweights. So no doubt the mount is maxed out.? But these were two most enjoyable observing sessions, examining some clusters and double stars in Cassiopeia. The revelation in moving ahead came when I examined the mount in the daylight, something I seldom do. There I saw that the Ca-Cl contamination had caused some corrosion to the extreme lower end of the mount. The most affected areas were the tabs for attaching the Gemini chassis along with the azimuth adjustment mechanism. Both showed evidence of salt corrosion.

So I removed the entire mount and its adapter clear down to the cast iron flange atop the 4-inch galvanized pipe pier. Everything was cleaned with hot soapy water. There was some surface corrosion on the bronze traveling pin that moves the mount in azimuth. But I removed all corrosion and reassembled everything ?applying lubricating grease where needed. I like to use a special anti-seize compound on all stainless steel and aluminum threads. So everything is back together and functioning properly.

I'm a bit wiser in that I've learned about the dangers of employing Calcium-Chloride. In the future I will refrain from wrapping up a wet mount, and will just place the large plastic garbage container over the mount. Even if it should rain, the mount will be open to the air so dew can evaporate without needing the Ca-Cl. After the mount has dried the next day I can cover the mount with the Telegizmo cover and plastic garbage can as needed.

This brings me to a question for the forum:

To protect unused RJ45 sockets from moist night time air I am considering inserting in each such socket a spare RJ45 jack (with no wire attached). To seal each socket from the moist maritime (salty) air I am inquiring if it would be wise to apply some sort of paste that would further seal the socket. As a HAM radio operator I know of some paste that is applied to coaxial cable connections to exclude moisture. This paste is non conducting and serves to exclude water. With dew settling on the Gemini chassis there is danger of salty deposits (from marine air) on the exposed pins of the unused sockets. I have two potential pastes:

  • ?Stuf Dielectric Waterproofing Filler (for coaxial connectors, with Teflon)
  • Permatex Dielectric Grease (for automotive connectors like spark plugs and 12 volt lines).?

Maybe I'm trying to fix a problem that doesn't exist. The dielectric paste could be applied around the edges of the inserted plug to exclude water. Maybe there is another technique that would accomplish the same thing. Perhaps just applying some sort of waterproof tape over the RJ45 socket. I know electrical tape would work for a while. But it eventually becomes a sticky mess as it ages. Any suggestions? I'm interested in suggestions from the forum.

Best Regards,
Russ

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