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Re: GM8 lubrication

 

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Superlube …

?

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Dave_Kentsbeer
Sent: 05 October 2020 21:33
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users_io] GM8 lubrication

?

When I got my G11 the gears were dry so as a temporary measure I cleaned off the grime I could get to without stripping the whole thing down, so cleaned the worm gears and the large gears they drive, also the motor gearbox and re-greased with high melting point bearing grease that I used for my car repairs as that was all I had, it does not run or clog, when I strip the Ra and Dec and clean it would it be ok to use the same grease or is this too thick for long term use?


Re: Purchase question.

 

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They make an extension tube for the Polemaster to clear the tucked motors. One 21 pound weight will not be enough to balance the C11.


On Oct 5, 2020, at 8:16 PM, Stosh <mike@...> wrote:

?Thanks again.? ?I'm going to try to order tomorrow or Wednesday, and I'm down to just a couple last questions.

Is the one counterweight going to be enough for an 11 inch Celestron SCT?? ?This is my visual OTA, and it would be sad if I had to wait while I ordered another counterweight before I could use the mount.? Guaranteed to have clear skies if I don't have enough counterweight.? ?I figure 30 to 32 pounds with the finderscope, 2 inch diagonal and eyepieces.? ? I believe the G11G comes with 1 21lb counterweight.

Second, I see that Losmandy offers a PoleMaster in the accessory store, but referenced non tucked motors.? ?The pictures of the tucked motors appear to block the opening for the polar scope where the PoleMaster adaptor would go.? Is that the case???


Re: Counterweight bar safety screw

 

I think a Grade 5 is a better choice, they are more resilient and will bend long before breaking.?
--

Chip Louie Chief Daydreamer Imagination Hardware?

? ?Astropheric Weather Forecast - South Pasadena, CA?


Re: Purchase question.

Stosh
 

Thanks again.? ?I'm going to try to order tomorrow or Wednesday, and I'm down to just a couple last questions.

Is the one counterweight going to be enough for an 11 inch Celestron SCT?? ?This is my visual OTA, and it would be sad if I had to wait while I ordered another counterweight before I could use the mount.? Guaranteed to have clear skies if I don't have enough counterweight.? ?I figure 30 to 32 pounds with the finderscope, 2 inch diagonal and eyepieces.? ? I believe the G11G comes with 1 21lb counterweight.

Second, I see that Losmandy offers a PoleMaster in the accessory store, but referenced non tucked motors.? ?The pictures of the tucked motors appear to block the opening for the polar scope where the PoleMaster adaptor would go.? Is that the case???


Re: Autoguiding port

 

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The??is also useful. Starting on p. 40 it discusses connecting a camera to the auto guider port, and specifically references the ST-8 camera. ?

With the round DIN connectors, you should have the newer version of the Gemini 1. ?It has TTL-level inputs (open collector to ground) for guiding so you don’t need the relay box. ?See section 4.2.4 on p. 42 of the Gemini 1 manual. ?It even discusses the SBIG cable needed to connect the camera, though it’s easy to make one yourself.

? -Les



On 5 Oct 2020, at 16:56, Luis Barneo <lbarneo@...> wrote:

My mount is a Losmandy G11, Gemini 1 level 4, with servomotors 6 pin DIN connectors.?Recently I got a second hand ST-8XE USB SBIG camera attached to CFW8A filter wheel with many accesories,?The problem is that I'm confused how to connect the camera-filter wheel to the autoguider port of Losmandy.?I think that? my mount does not require the "relay adapter box"?(page 42 Gemini User Manual? 2006: 4.2.4 Connecting an Autoguider to a new Gemini (with DIN connectors): "...The SBIG relay box can be used , but is not necessary..."
But the "Application Note Relay Adadter Box"? ()? recommend the use of realy box with all Losmandy mounts even with the Gemini GOTO electronics (pag 1), and in the page 3 clarify (?) when it is no necessary to use the Realy Adadter Box if:
1. You are using the camera with LX-200 telescopes.
2. Your telescope/drive corrector uses "Open Collector to Ground" inputs for guiding.
3. You are using a Losmandy mount running both the camera and telescope? off the 110V AC wall transformers where the camera and drive corrector do not share a common ground.
I'm a layman in electronics. Someone can help me? Thanks

Luis


Re: Autoguiding port

 

Louis,

The attached should help you with the Gemini-1 autoguiding.

Best,
Michael

On Mon, Oct 5, 2020, 4:56 PM Luis Barneo <lbarneo@...> wrote:
My mount is a Losmandy G11, Gemini 1 level 4, with servomotors 6 pin DIN connectors.?Recently I got a second hand ST-8XE USB SBIG camera attached to CFW8A filter wheel with many accesories,?The problem is that I'm confused how to connect the camera-filter wheel to the autoguider port of Losmandy.?I think that? my mount does not require the "relay adapter box"?(page 42 Gemini User Manual? 2006: 4.2.4 Connecting an Autoguider to a new Gemini (with DIN connectors): "...The SBIG relay box can be used , but is not necessary..."
But the "Application Note Relay Adadter Box"? ()? recommend the use of realy box with all Losmandy mounts even with the Gemini GOTO electronics (pag 1), and in the page 3 clarify (?) when it is no necessary to use the Realy Adadter Box if:
1. You are using the camera with LX-200 telescopes.
2. Your telescope/drive corrector uses "Open Collector to Ground" inputs for guiding.
3. You are using a Losmandy mount running both the camera and telescope? off the 110V AC wall transformers where the camera and drive corrector do not share a common ground.
I'm a layman in electronics. Someone can help me? Thanks

Luis


Autoguiding port

 

My mount is a Losmandy G11, Gemini 1 level 4, with servomotors 6 pin DIN connectors.?Recently I got a second hand ST-8XE USB SBIG camera attached to CFW8A filter wheel with many accesories,?The problem is that I'm confused how to connect the camera-filter wheel to the autoguider port of Losmandy.?I think that? my mount does not require the "relay adapter box"?(page 42 Gemini User Manual? 2006: 4.2.4 Connecting an Autoguider to a new Gemini (with DIN connectors): "...The SBIG relay box can be used , but is not necessary..."
But the "Application Note Relay Adadter Box"? (https://diffractionlimited.com/downloads/legacy/relay_box_instructions.pdf)? recommend the use of realy box with all Losmandy mounts even with the Gemini GOTO electronics (pag 1), and in the page 3 clarify (?) when it is no necessary to use the Realy Adadter Box if:
1. You are using the camera with LX-200 telescopes.
2. Your telescope/drive corrector uses "Open Collector to Ground" inputs for guiding.
3. You are using a Losmandy mount running both the camera and telescope? off the 110V AC wall transformers where the camera and drive corrector do not share a common ground.
I'm a layman in electronics. Someone can help me? Thanks

Luis


Re: Setup sequence questions

 

>>> I set my Gemini to do a cold boot everytime. There may be a better way, but that's what I do. I then use Kstars/Ekos to do a couple plate solves.?

if you're doing plate solves, cold start is fine


Brian

On Mon, Oct 5, 2020 at 3:30 PM Jamie Amendolagine <jamie.amendolagine@...> wrote:
For polar alignment I use "drift align" within PHD2. It works really well, and you don't need to see the north star to do it. I've pounded in three threaded pipes with a flange on the end into the ground to make a sort of permanent tripod locator. I'm able to take in my mount every night, but re-locate it back to a pretty precise location, and keep my polar alignment, sometimes for months. This means that I save a lot of time only needing to do polar alignments once in a while. Look at the tripod feet to see what I mean about the flanged pipe:??Here's an image I found of threaded pipe with a flange attached.?

I set my Gemini to do a cold boot everytime. There may be a better way, but that's what I do. I then use Kstars/Ekos to do a couple plate solves. Next I make sure the focus is good using a?bahtinov mask pointing at a bright star. Finally I point to my target and start capturing images.?

Jamie



--
Brian?



Brian Valente
portfolio


Re: Setup sequence questions

 
Edited

For polar alignment I use "drift align" within PHD2. It works really well, and you don't need to see the north star to do it. I've pounded in three threaded pipes with a flange on the end, into the ground to make a sort of permanent tripod locator. I'm able to take in my mount every night, but re-locate it back to a pretty precise location, and keep my polar alignment, sometimes for months. This means that I save a lot of time only needing to do polar alignments once in a while. Look at the tripod feet to see what I mean about the flanged pipe:??Here's an image I found of threaded pipe with a flange attached.?

I set my Gemini to do a cold boot everytime. There may be a better way, but that's what I do. I then use Kstars/Ekos to do a couple plate solves. Next I make sure the focus is good using a?bahtinov mask pointing at a bright star. Finally I point to my target and start capturing images.?

Jamie


Re: Setup sequence questions

 

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Thanks?for the tip, Tim. It all helps.

Jeff


From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Astronut <hg2u@...>
Sent: Monday, October 5, 2020 9:11 AM
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users_io] Setup sequence questions
?
PS: I usually also check the orientation of my cameras using Sharpcap's reticle and alternating between E and W movements using the Center speed.
I rotate the cameras (if needed) until the star stays on the reticle line when nudging E and W.
I check this on both my main and guiding camera, as well as my EAA camera on my finder.
I know that I don't have to do this for PHD2, etc. But I believe that it makes everything easier when East = East and not East = North East (or worse).

I know that all the major software out there claims they don't care about this orientation and will compensate for it, but all I know is that?I have gotten consistently better results overall after this step...

Astronut Tim




Re: GM8 lubrication

 

When I got my G11 the gears were dry so as a temporary measure I cleaned off the grime I could get to without stripping the whole thing down, so cleaned the worm gears and the large gears they drive, also the motor gearbox and re-greased with high melting point bearing grease that I used for my car repairs as that was all I had, it does not run or clog, when I strip the Ra and Dec and clean it would it be ok to use the same grease or is this too thick for long term use?


Re: Connect Losmandy mount using router

 

Thank you all very much

Now it works great.
?


Re: Counterweight bar safety screw

 

Pick up a Grade 8 Bolt and Grade 8 Washer as they are the strongest commonly available fasteners.

Frank


Re: Counterweight bar safety screw

 

Then all you need is a nice comfortable soft knob to pop on the cap screw to finish the job.?
--

Chip Louie Chief Daydreamer Imagination Hardware?

? ?Astropheric Weather Forecast - South Pasadena, CA?


Re: Cover for G11 with 9.25 SCT and guide scope

 

Hi,?

So you need an all weather outdoor 24x7 type protection, not just something to keep the dust off the mount and optics in the field??

How important are cosmetics to you? If cheap, ugly and non-portable is OK the usual 65 gallon or greater trash barrel or giant Rubbermaid storage box over a giant commercial drawstring polyester laundry bag cinched up tight around the tripod top to keep out dust and bugs can do a good job protecting your rig.?

BUT you need to manage these issues, security, moisture and insects are the worst though rodents and other ground based biological wire chewing devices can be a severe problem in some areas.

Security is handled by using heavy weights and tying down the trash can Rubbermaid box. Cinder blocks come to mind with cheap poly boat line which is UV proof, strong and cheap as dirt.?

The moisture issue can be managed with a low Watt moisture reduction heating element as used on boats. Look for stick heaters, Goldenrod is a popular brand. Just attach it to the underside of the trash can and plug it in and leave it on 24x7. They are only a few Watts and work like dew heaters to raise the air temp just enough to push out moisture.?But don't go overboard on Wattage as insects like the warmth.?

As for the ground based wire chewing devices the best defense is to disconnect any and all wires and store them coiled on the mount well off the ground or in the Rubbermaid bucket you carry out to use the mount.?

This is the best I have. If you want to have a pretty solution the Teligizmos are still pretty ugly and don't address anything other than sun and rain without adding additional protections mentioned and in both situations the tripod legs will be left relatively exposed to the sun which very quickly fade due to the UV.?

The best thing you can do is leave the mount inside and get the darned ROR built ASAP. Then send us photos to make us jealous.!

--

Chip Louie Chief Daydreamer Imagination Hardware?

? ?Astropheric Weather Forecast - South Pasadena, CA?


Re: Carte du Ciel & GM8+Gemini 2

 

Hi Tony,

I have not had any issue using Cartes du Ceil though Stellarium is my go-to planetarium app. My CdC was last updated less than two weeks ago and seems to work fine.?

How are you interfaced to CdC? You need to have the ASCOM hub installed as well as Gemini.net for it to work.??

--

Chip Louie Chief Daydreamer Imagination Hardware?

? ?Astropheric Weather Forecast - South Pasadena, CA?


Re: Connect Losmandy mount using router

 

Aristo,

If you need to see the screen shots for the TP Link nano routers Brian has screen shots with the correct settings. I did a commented setup and walk-through for both TP Link nano routers and posted the screen shots but some folks could not see them so I sent them to Brain to see and share.?

--

Chip Louie Chief Daydreamer Imagination Hardware?

? ?Astropheric Weather Forecast - South Pasadena, CA?


Re: Encoders, yes or no?

 

Hi David,

Serge told me the magnetic rings are the same. The difference is on the pickup side of the encoders which are programed to count differently which yields you a 10K tic encoder system. I have not tried them as I wanted the highest working resolution so I stuck with standard 310K tics for the Nexus DSC which is amazing in use.?

--

Chip Louie Chief Daydreamer Imagination Hardware?

? ?Astropheric Weather Forecast - South Pasadena, CA?


Re: Setup sequence questions

Sonny Edmonds
 

Like Tim I'm now using Sharpcap to Polar Align. Here is a video that helped me get it down pat:?
Unlike Tim, once I have Polar Aligned with Sharpcap, the Polar Alignment is done, and it needs no other corrections.

Consistencies are a matter of routine. I have 3 boards I set my HD tripod on that I made to adjust the tripod as level as possible. Lot's of folks have told me it doesn't matter, I've proven to myself it does. So I begin with as level a base as possible.
Once my tripod is level and plumb, I tend to leave it so it is roughly polar aligned. I just cover it after the rest is hauled back inside, so I have my base for the next night.
Each night, I like to check the level of my HD Tripod. I use my Smart Tool digital level, which has proven accurate over the years I've had it and used it. So I always know my base platform is level and pointing as straight into outer space as I can humanly set it. Then I assemble my "Chunks" of my mount. The RA on the EX 12, The Dec on the RAEXT, Then my Telescope from the clamp up. Everything stays in balance, because there is only the consistent "Chunks" being assembled.

I DO NOT turn on the Gemini until I have my Sharpcap PA routine completed. Polar Alignment is a function of mechanical alignment to get your assembled equipment aimed at the North Celestial Pole. As such, we don't want the Gemini powered up and the mounts natural tracking function messing up our Polar Aligning steps.
So the Gemini stays Off until the PA is completed. At that point, when your PA is as good as you can humanly get it, you power up the Gemini and it's home position is at your Polar Alignment.
(I personally take it as a challenge to get my PA to be all zero's. The Altitude I can get with my GM811G fairly easily, the Azimuth is a little trickier. Az wants to dilly-dally from 0 to 3. I believe the atmosphere has some influence)

Once I'm satisfied I cannot do better with my Polar Alignment, I turn on my Gemini and begin my Modeling. And those results are really satisfying as I find the Aligning Stars come in when the telescope completes a slew.
I've been using a laser lately to aim my telescope during Modeling. It shows as a green line reaching towards the Star in the view. So it confirms what star needs to be centered. Presently I'm using a Z-Bolt astronomy laser mounted at about an 08:00 alignment to my Main Telescope.
Incidentally, I do all my PA and Alignment (Modeling) through my MOT. Because my Main Optical Tube is what matters. So it is what I need to be accurate.

That is my routine and method. Adopt any of it that fits for your needs.

--
SonnyE


(I suggest viewed in full screen)


Re: Pre purchase questions GM811G

 

Hi Warren,

I forgot to ask if you have discovered BYEOS yet? I don't have an M50 but the latest release now supports most of the better Canon MLIC bodies including the M50. Check it out: BYEOS?

--

Chip Louie Chief Daydreamer Imagination Hardware?

? ?Astropheric Weather Forecast - South Pasadena, CA?