Gemini-2 & The SkyX - No Slews
When I connect via ASCOM to The SkyX, my GM811 will connect and disconnect in SkyX, but it won¡¯t slew you an object. I¡¯m using Ethernet. Does anyone know what might be the issue?
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Re: Astro Gadget BT adaptor on a Gemini 1 - power
Gemini-1 needs a small modification to supply power to Bluetooth on the serial port (+5V to pin 1). ? David ?
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Brian Valente
Sent: 18 September 2020 15:54
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users_io] Astro Gadget BT adaptor on a Gemini 1 - power ? I think that's a different product Sonny I believe the BT adapter for Gemini I is this one: You may need to write them. they point out the Gemini 2 version requires?no external power, but nothing for this unit you could also just try plugging it in, it may draw power from the serial port ? Hi Dave,
I did a little web sleuthing and found this:
If that is what you are referring to, I see down in the write up:
"
Characteristics: - Mount type: equatorial
- Type of stepper motor: bipolar
- Power supply requirements: 12V, 3A, 5.5mm 2.1mm plug
- The center pin of the power connector is positive
- Smooth acceleration and braking of the stepper motor."
Hope that helps.
--
SonnyE
(I suggest viewed in full screen)
--
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Re: Mechanical Stop to Prevent OTA Slipping Off from Saddle
Hi Sonny,
I¡¯m basically doing same thing: dividing the mount into chunks and combine the scope, camera, filter wheels and oag with camera into a module for ease of portability. The work is still in progress as I¡¯m including a nano computer and a dew heater controller which I need to mount them to complete the scope into a module the way I want.
Thanks for sharing your info as some food for thought with me.
Cheer,
Paul
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Re: Astro Gadget BT adaptor on a Gemini 1 - power
Yeah, my mistake there Brian.
I was editing as you posted the correct adaptikator.
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SonnyE
(I suggest viewed in full screen)
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Re: Astro Gadget BT adaptor on a Gemini 1 - power
I think that's a different product Sonny
I believe the BT adapter for Gemini I is this one:
You may need to write them. they point out the Gemini 2 version requires?no external power, but nothing for this unit
you could also just try plugging it in, it may draw power from the serial port
Hi Dave,
I did a little web sleuthing and found this:
If that is what you are referring to, I see down in the write up:
"
Characteristics:
- Mount type: equatorial
- Type of stepper motor: bipolar
- Power supply requirements: 12V, 3A, 5.5mm 2.1mm plug
- The center pin of the power connector is positive
- Smooth acceleration and braking of the stepper motor."
Hope that helps.
--
SonnyE
(I suggest viewed in full screen)
-- Brian?
Brian Valente portfolio
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Re: Astro Gadget BT adaptor on a Gemini 1 - power
Hi Dave,
I did a little web sleuthing and found this:
Sky Safari editions:
Hope that helps.
--
SonnyE
(I suggest viewed in full screen)
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Re: Polar alignment scope on the G11
Thank you all for the advice, on EBAY I found an 3mm LED unit complete with battery box for ?3.99 that flashes twice a second, I will 3d print a hollow bolt to place it in the mount and see if its works, if not then i will have to look into buying the Losmandy unit.
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Hi Brendon,
Thank you for your reply, i have not had a chance to use the mount since but will have another look into this when I get the chance, hopefully tonight if it stays clear.
No there are no errors reported.
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Astro Gadget BT adaptor on a Gemini 1 - power
Hi all, have just received my Bluetooth adaptor from Astro Gadget, however there are no instructions regarding powering the unit, please does anyone know what voltage it requires ?
Thanks
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Re: G11 original servo motor encoder disc assy (grub screw)
Just in case it helps anybody I found that a 1.27mm allen key is a very good fit into the grub screw that holds the encoder disc hub. That's 50 thousand's of an inch in Imperial measurement. Just a caution regarding use of Torx drivers. I found that a T5x50 (the micro type) would undo the grub screw but was not a good enough fit to tighten it back up. I recommended getting hold of the correct sized key (1.27mm).?
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Re: Spring loaded worm modification G11
Looks really good Tom. I'm in western Sydney and I did something similar. How did you deal with the two Hex holding the worm block from under the plate. Do you leave them lose enough so the block can rotate or did you use slightly longer ones?
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Re: Spring loaded worm modification G11
Do you have drawings to allow others to reproduce? ? David ?
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Tom Storer
Sent: 18 September 2020 03:00
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users_io] Spring loaded worm modification G11 ? Hi everyone, this is my first post. I received my G811G a few months prior to SLW being fitted. Due to high shipping costs to and from Australia it was not possible to send it back to Scott for upgrade, so I DIYed it.
I researched using photos of the SLW system. My brother is a retired aircraft maintenance engineer who made the washers for me. My son was visiting LA a couple of years ago and bought some small spares which included saddle springs, one of which I used for the SLW. I bought a small slab of 7071 aluminum which I used to rehearse drilling and tapping. As Australia uses the metric system I used M5 stainless screws. I only upgraded the DEC axis as the RA has no detectable backlash. (If it ain't broke don't fix it). The result was well worth the effort, when guiding, a change in direction is under a second whereas is was up to 13 seconds prior to the mod. These mounts are beautifully designed and made. This would not be possible with the usual mass produced mounts.
?I have attached some pics.
Clear skies,
Tom.
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Same here. Don't do planets often but they're at the zenith right now and Mars is getting bigger. Too good to pass.
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Re: Spring loaded worm modification G11
Hi everyone, this is my first post. I received my G811G a few months prior to SLW being fitted. Due to high shipping costs to and from Australia it was not possible to send it back to Scott for upgrade, so I DIYed it.
I researched using photos of the SLW system. My brother is a retired aircraft maintenance engineer who made the washers for me. My son was visiting LA a couple of years ago and bought some small spares which included saddle springs, one of which I used for the SLW. I bought a small slab of 7071 aluminum which I used to rehearse drilling and tapping. As Australia uses the metric system I used M5 stainless screws. I only upgraded the DEC axis as the RA has no detectable backlash. (If it ain't broke don't fix it). The result was well worth the effort, when guiding, a change in direction is under a second whereas is was up to 13 seconds prior to the mod. These mounts are beautifully designed and made. This would not be possible with the usual mass produced mounts.
?I have attached some pics.
Clear skies,
Tom.
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Re: Mechanical Stop to Prevent OTA Slipping Off from Saddle
You are most Welcome, Paul.
I, too, have to set up and tear down nightly (except lately. Too much high level smoke to see the stars)
Anyway, my Losmandy mount lends itself completely to building it to work for me (or the owner) and was one of the attributes other mounts sorely lacked. IMHO.
My "Observatory" is an area out back by by my back wall, poolside. Just my best view site. LOL!
So being able to "chunk" my mount into 4 main pieces helps me carry it out, then carry it back in.
In light of that, my telescope is Last on, First off. And I merely plug in 3 wires, and my computer and power source. (Which actually, my mount side computer is Chunk 5)
When I began leaving the HD Tripod out, but covered, the household CFO grilled me that there was no motors in the tripod, and no electric stuff. (That's about as "Tech" as she gets. LOL!)
Anyway, my "Chunks".?
The tripod is as I said, outside under wraps. ;^)
But it makes my setup and teardown a lot easier than ever before.
I hope that lends food for thought to your continued happiness with your mount.
We both baby our mounts. And with a little study on the pieces, I found the best way to get mine to work with me, and not me for it.
I'm closing, I would not give you a stinkin cat. Only a fresh one to skin. ;^) LOL!
--
SonnyE
(I suggest viewed in full screen)
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Re: Telescope slip in the clamp
Henk,
Even ignoring the fact that your dovetail does not appear to have any stops to prevent the dovetail sliding out and assuming you do not accidentally insert it incorrectly there are three further things about the design that look poor to me.
1) the side prongs do not appear to contact the bottom because the central one is longer 2) the amount of surface area in contact is probably less that 30% of a solid one 3) Only the longer central prong is being pushed fully
So, all I see is a dramatically reduced amount of friction when tightened.
A solid design will push from the sides but also push down and all three sides are fully in contact with the saddle, maximising the grip.
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On 17 Sep 2020, at 5:59:13 am, Henk Aling < haling@...> wrote:
This is why Losmandy dovetails are the best choice, solid bar stock machined correctly with no weak open bottom and proper support in the saddle during clamping. There can be no?metal fatigue leading to weak clamping and no?misalignment in the saddle if you use a solid bar dovetail.The photo below shows a Losmandy double clamp D/V saddle with a Vixen dovetail made by Losmandy. Note the solid bar dovetail base is supporting the dovetail in the saddle properly aligning it for clamping. This is the way these parts are designed to work and why extruded Vixen size dovetails with long fins are inferior.?
a) Your comments about the weakness of my Vixen dovetail are highly exaggerated.? You can't just bend a 12" long dovetail by turning a screw manually.? The quality of my dovetail is perfectly fine for my 14 lbs. scope. b) I can probably get that Losmandy dovetail in the same bad position. c) How can I use the Losmandy dovetail to correct cone error?? My Vixen dovetail has very useful setting screws in the cavity for that. d) Why would I spend the money and trouble on buying something that should not be necessary? e) Why is it that my choice of mount should force me to buy a new dovetail?? While there is an easy fix as I pointed out? The problem can be easily fixed as I described, not that I need it anymore.
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Re: G11 worm wobble issue
This may have been a problem with much 'older mounts' but I haven't seen this problem on the forums for quite some time - 12 to 15 years.? Have you considered upgrading the mount?? Could this be a Celestron G11 mount?
Post a picture of your mount's RA and DEC drives.
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Re: Spring loaded worm modification G11
Thanks Chuck. I wouldn't imagine Scott would want to take a "trade-in" on used, old-style motors, so yes, mine would be worthless, except as a used sale to recoup some of the massive cost of the upgrade. I suspect my medium-term plan will be to just stay the course, use the Gemini system as is, and if any part of it fails, I'll probably implement an OnStep system instead (I've already built a few systems on the bench for fun). Wide choice of powerful motors which can be easily "tucked-in" and at very low cost, though I'd still be missing the SLW capability. I'd love to see some hi-res photos of how it is done, to get an idea of what would be involved in DIYing it.
Jeff
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Re: Mechanical Stop to Prevent OTA Slipping Off from Saddle
Sonny!
Yes that¡¯s a great product! I agree there are ¡°Lottsa way to skin the cat¡±! As long you don¡¯t give me a stinkin¡¯ cat! LOL.
I don¡¯t have a luxury to own an observatory and have a limited sky area. This make my scope portable which I have to constantly setup it up at night and break it down at dawn. I¡¯m constantly finding the most efficient way of setting it up or breaking it down in a short time. Your idea of using a device as a stop to allow to counter balance your scope in a minimum amount time is a great idea.
I love my mount so much that I have to take a really good care of it like a baby and make the most use out of it.
Thanks Sonny for the feedback!
Cheer!
Paul
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Re: Spring loaded worm modification G11
JP
If you get the new high torque motors, there's no trade in for the old motors. So they don't want to take old motors for future repairs.
Chuck
-----Original Message----- From: jp071848 <lx200gps@...> To: Losmandy_users < [email protected]> Sent: Thu, Sep 17, 2020 08:01 AM Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users_io] Spring loaded worm modification G11 Thanks for the summary Keith. I have a 2005-vintage G11, also with the new OPW on RA but not DEC, though I do have the RAEXS? extension. I'd been contemplating the upgrade, but one question remains for me. Can you shed any light on the comment on the Losmandy site that says this mod requires the hi-torque motors? My motors are the original non hi-torque, and if they have to be replaced, that would add another $US450 to the total, bringing the cost of the full upgrade to about $US1600, or about $C2100 BEFORE the inevitable import taxes into Canada. That's more than I paid for the entire mount a few years ago.? I'd have to consider selling the old mount and buying new or a recent pre-owned version, as the upgrade would make no sense for me.
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David C. Partridge
Dave_Kentsbeer
Tom Storer