Re: Almost a new owner.... Getting it through my thick head.
Aubrey, Sounds good?and logical to me. Celestron's method never made sense. It just flopped around like a fish on a deck. But it worked. Or I learned to work it.
Derek, Yes, I know Polaris isn't within walking distance of the NCP, but it is the closest star. So good to use for reference. I do hope to eventually narrow it down. Anyone who has shot star trails (Hand in the air here) has seen Polaris circles. Just it circles the closest of what we have for reference. ;^) LOL!
Actually, I used to leave the mount and tripod set, and retained what PA I had with it. Only removing my Telescope and its stuff and leaving the connecting cords/wires with the mount. But since the Losmandy only has the Dec and RA cords, I was thinking like you about Pulling the Head. But I know from experience that the more that is disturbed, the more there is to correct the next use. Ergo, why I decided my split point was going to be the Vixen bar/clamp. It actually works pretty well, even though it isn't what I would call a precision joint. Things do come back pretty close.
Which brings me to "Perfectly Polar Aligned", Not going to happen. At least not on a tripod. And I have to wonder about if even on a pier. I think there would or could be variations. And the higher the magnifications (say a C-11) the more nerve racking it could become, from night to night. Hense, why I always started with adjusting my PA, ever so slightly, but yep every night. So "Perfect" doesn't exist. Pretty darn close does, but I never saw Perfectly in anything. I always worked towards it, but never saw it.
But the way Scott Losmandy covers it, the Gemini does as well as anything else without a Polar Scope, or a PoleMaster. You correct the aim and the Gemini II remembers the location. I'm not sure how, but that's what I get out of it. Center the star, push the appropriate buttons, and move to the next star.
Just new stuff to learn.
Brian, So far Plate solving hasn't worked out for me. But heck, there's other things that didn't work out for me that does work for others. Shrug! ;^)
When beginning, there were times I'd do many alignments just trying to get myself trained at it, and to see how good I could get it. But I was fighting a bad mount, and a bad Main Camera. Turned out my alignment and guiding were spot on, when I did get a decent camera. Even if I failed a lot, I learned. I enjoyed even the most frustrating nights.
I have both the Guide Camera and my Main Camera hooked up to my Baby Dell. So doggone it, Plate solving, SharpCap, and even Cart du Ciel?should work but not so far, not for me.
Stellarium has worked great for me, so I don't need to build sky charts. It can run the old AVX, and slew to objects.
But after about 4700 Polar Alignments, and not ever moving my mount. I got down to just changing pressure to get my old mount aligned.
LOL! I took down the old AVX tripod yesterday and had to use pliers to help get the leg screws loosened. Yep, they'd about grown roots. LOL!
I tore it down finally to set up my telescope for visual with the 8 year old Grandson who spent the night. We had some fun looking at different stars and the Moon.
Does anybody have the Email addresses for the Losmandy folks? I tried via the Technical Support @ Losmandy, but no reply as of yet. Maybe I'll call tomorrow. I have to correct this no mount situation. I'm sick of sitting in the house.
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Re: Almost a new owner.... Getting it through my thick head.
Sonny if you have a computer and are connected to your camera, I"d suggest just plate solving. you don't need to build multi-star models with alignments, etc.
problem solved
if you are visual observer, then my experience is 3 stars on each side is the most accurate. It gets more accurate the more alignments you do, but 3 is the threshold at which polar align errors are corrected for
Brian
|
Re: Almost a new owner.... Getting it through my thick head.
Two
things.. You image so you should know this, but Polaris is not all that close
to the NCP.. I only point that out for any lurking Newbie¡¯s.. Also,
leaving the tripod setup and removing the scope and mount and replacing it when
you want to use it is exactly what I wish to do but haven¡¯t tried yet to
see how well it will work..
??? But
this question you ask..
***
I'm curious how many of you do
a single star, per the video, or add additional stars? (For
me, I image, so desire an extreme of accuracy I have had to center up, then
lock PHD2 to guiding on. At that point, I get pinpoint stars.)
***
I
use one star all the time..
***
And does a single star really give you the accuracy you want for your
use?
AND
Forgive me, But I'm trying to train my brain
***
Training
the brain..
?
OK..
First of two subjects.. If you are perfectly polar aligned, then the trick is
only to find your target, since once you find it, you can image it (or view
it).. My setup is pretty well drift aligned and doesn¡¯t move.. If you go
mobile or otherwise setup and tear down each time, you need to get reasonably
well aligned for visual, or quite well for imaging.. See PoleMaster etc..
?
Second
subject is alignment.. Your goal for the viewing is important here.. If you
wish to put the Mark 1 eyeball to an ocular, then you would want to build a
model on both sides of the mount with many stars so you can do a Goto any
object you want..
??? If
you want to image one (or a few) objects over the course of an evening ¨C
like I aim to do ¨C then you only need to be able to find your targets.. I
use one star, synch on it, and goto my target.. I repeat this for all objects..
I don¡¯t have a model ¨C all my model parameters show zeros..
I can explain it, but I don¡¯t think anyone
is interested in doing it this way..
?
Derek
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Sonny Edmonds
Sent: Sunday, February 02, 2020
11:12 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [Losmandy_users_io]
Almost a new owner.... Getting it through my thick head.
?
Hi all,
So I've been playing and replaying the Gemini Videos, and came up with a
question about how you do alignments, VS: how I figured out to do mine from
before. Please bare with me.
I use to leave my mount set up and Polar Aligned to the NCP. That way I could
carry out my Telescope (ready to plug in and go), then carry out my Laptop (AKA
Baby Dell). Connect and open? Celestron (now scrubbed), PHD2, Atik Camera,
Focuser, and Stellarium.
OK, Primary systems ready to go. Before anything else, I would check to see
where Polaris was in relation to my Main Telescope Cameras cross hairs. And
change the pressures on my Elevation to center it up. Then forge ahead into the
alignment procedure. Doing a 2 + 4 star alignment. Reason being, I felt it gave
the mount more to work with for greater accuracy. (The last 2 stars were
usually very close to centered.)
OK, my old way.
Now the new way with Scott. It sort of runs backward to my old ways, and allows
the mount (Gemini) to build it's reference from one star, or two stars,
"or as many as you like." S.L., and ultimately back to Polaris). I'm
good with that. I'll figure it out when the time comes.
I'm curious how many of you do a single
star, per the video, or add additional stars? And does a
single star really give you the accuracy you want for your use? (For me, I
image, so desire an extreme of accuracy I have had to center up, then lock PHD2
to guiding on. At that point, I get pinpoint stars.)
Forgive me, But I'm trying to train my brain for a jump start.
And trying to grasp the Modeling part as well. But that is for another time. I
think I've got it.
Have fun at your Super Bowl Parties!
The wife and I are going to the movies while everybody is pre-occupied... Heh,
heh.
|
Re: Almost a new owner.... Getting it through my thick head.
I have consistently used two stars on each side. The first should be as far to the South East as possible. Likewise on the West, it should be as far South West as possible. Then the 2nd should be in the North East and North west. It probably helps if you can put a third start while doing each side ?that is slightly past the meridian on ?each side/ This will ?aid the alignment since most Losmandy G11¡¯s with their telescope have cone error. ? ? Aubrey ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Sonny Edmonds
Sent: Sunday, February 02, 2020 1:12 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [Losmandy_users_io] Almost a new owner.... Getting it through my thick head. ? Hi all,
So I've been playing and replaying the Gemini Videos, and came up with a question about how you do alignments, VS: how I figured out to do mine from before. Please bare with me.
I use to leave my mount set up and Polar Aligned to the NCP. That way I could carry out my Telescope (ready to plug in and go), then carry out my Laptop (AKA Baby Dell). Connect and open? Celestron (now scrubbed), PHD2, Atik Camera, Focuser, and Stellarium.
OK, Primary systems ready to go. Before anything else, I would check to see where Polaris was in relation to my Main Telescope Cameras cross hairs. And change the pressures on my Elevation to center it up. Then forge ahead into the alignment procedure. Doing a 2 + 4 star alignment. Reason being, I felt it gave the mount more to work with for greater accuracy. (The last 2 stars were usually very close to centered.)
OK, my old way.
Now the new way with Scott. It sort of runs backward to my old ways, and allows the mount (Gemini) to build it's reference from one star, or two stars, "or as many as you like." S.L., and ultimately back to Polaris). I'm good with that. I'll figure it out when the time comes.
I'm curious how many of you do a single star, per the video, or add additional stars? And does a single star really give you the accuracy you want for your use? (For me, I image, so desire an extreme of accuracy I have had to center up, then lock PHD2 to guiding on. At that point, I get pinpoint stars.)
Forgive me, But I'm trying to train my brain for a jump start.
And trying to grasp the Modeling part as well. But that is for another time. I think I've got it.
Have fun at your Super Bowl Parties!
The wife and I are going to the movies while everybody is pre-occupied... Heh, heh.
|
Almost a new owner.... Getting it through my thick head.
Hi all,
So I've been playing and replaying the Gemini Videos, and came up with a question about how you do alignments, VS: how I figured out to do mine from before. Please bare with me.
I use to leave my mount set up and Polar Aligned to the NCP. That way I could carry out my Telescope (ready to plug in and go), then carry out my Laptop (AKA Baby Dell). Connect and open? Celestron (now scrubbed), PHD2, Atik Camera, Focuser, and Stellarium.
OK, Primary systems ready to go. Before anything else, I would check to see where Polaris was in relation to my Main Telescope Cameras cross hairs. And change the pressures on my Elevation to center it up. Then forge ahead into the alignment procedure. Doing a 2 + 4 star alignment. Reason being, I felt it gave the mount more to work with for greater accuracy. (The last 2 stars were usually very close to centered.)
OK, my old way.
Now the new way with Scott. It sort of runs backward to my old ways, and allows the mount (Gemini) to build it's reference from one star, or two stars, "or as many as you like." S.L., and ultimately back to Polaris). I'm good with that. I'll figure it out when the time comes.
I'm curious how many of you do a single star, per the video, or add additional stars? And does a single star really give you the accuracy you want for your use? (For me, I image, so desire an extreme of accuracy I have had to center up, then lock PHD2 to guiding on. At that point, I get pinpoint stars.)
Forgive me, But I'm trying to train my brain for a jump start.
And trying to grasp the Modeling part as well. But that is for another time. I think I've got it.
Have fun at your Super Bowl Parties!
The wife and I are going to the movies while everybody is pre-occupied... Heh, heh.
|
Re: G11 performance unguided
Sorry, a bit more spam, but SDSS was a project all of us were very proud of.
Here's a paper for an IEEE Realtime Conference talk I wrote about the data acquisition system which also details the various instruments:
SDSS operated one of the very first web servers in the United States.? Well before Google existed (but Alta Vista was already around), we implemented in 1995 a search engine using WAIS that allowed the astronomers to do context sensitive searches through all of the documentation.?
For more about SDSS, see and in particular .?
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Re: G11 performance unguided
Coincidentally, just last night I discovered the 80 character FITS record format, kind of accidentally. First thing I did was write a little script to spit out the header with newline-terminated records to facilitate using text processing tools on the header info.? Don, do you have handy a pointer to the FITS spec so I can see what stuff I can add to the files without getting in trouble with you lawyers?
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Show quoted text
On Feb 2, 2020, at 10:30 AM, Don Holmgren <djholm@...> wrote:
?Regarding FITS files:
From 1995 to about 2002 I worked as a programmer on the Sloan Digital Sky Survey (I was one of a team of 4 programmers that wrote the data acquisition code - in the VxWorks operating running on multiple Motorola single board computers all tied by a vertical bus interconnect to an SGI IRIX computer - that read out the 54 CCD¡¯s from the imaging camera, the 4 CCD¡¯s from the spectrographs, the CCD on the photo metric camera, in realtime, writing the data redundantly to DLT tape drives and doing realtime, online, flat-fielding and star detection).
One of my first programming assignments upon joining the project was to write a FITS file verifier, intended to ensure that all of the FITS files written by the data acquisition system and by the data processing pipeline were legal FITS. ?So I became a sort of FITS lawyer. ?Like all professional astronomy projects, raw and in many cases processed data were all stored in the FITS format. ?Even at that time FITS was an old format; in fact, the standard FITS record is limited to 80 characters because the files used to be written to punched cards (¡°Hollerith cards¡±). ?
Perhaps the best thing about using FITS for your personal astrophotography files is that in addition to recording the image data, FITS optionally records a lot of metadata. ?So my files, mostly written by SharpCap, have info about the camera, gain, offset, position on the sky, filter wheel position, date and time, target name, etc.. ?That metadata is invaluable for later processing (and PixInsight, for example, will add additional FITS records describing noise and other statistics, alignment matrices, and so forth).
|
Re: G11 performance unguided
Regarding FITS files:
From 1995 to about 2002 I worked as a programmer on the Sloan Digital Sky Survey (I was one of a team of 4 programmers that wrote the data acquisition code - in the VxWorks operating running on multiple Motorola single board computers all tied by a vertical bus interconnect to an SGI IRIX computer - that read out the 54 CCD¡¯s from the imaging camera, the 4 CCD¡¯s from the spectrographs, the CCD on the photo metric camera, in realtime, writing the data redundantly to DLT tape drives and doing realtime, online, flat-fielding and star detection).
One of my first programming assignments upon joining the project was to write a FITS file verifier, intended to ensure that all of the FITS files written by the data acquisition system and by the data processing pipeline were legal FITS. ?So I became a sort of FITS lawyer. ?Like all professional astronomy projects, raw and in many cases processed data were all stored in the FITS format. ?Even at that time FITS was an old format; in fact, the standard FITS record is limited to 80 characters because the files used to be written to punched cards (¡°Hollerith cards¡±). ?
Perhaps the best thing about using FITS for your personal astrophotography files is that in addition to recording the image data, FITS optionally records a lot of metadata. ?So my files, mostly written by SharpCap, have info about the camera, gain, offset, position on the sky, filter wheel position, date and time, target name, etc.. ?That metadata is invaluable for later processing (and PixInsight, for example, will add additional FITS records describing noise and other statistics, alignment matrices, and so forth).
|
Re: G11 performance unguided
Yes sonny, and just to be clear it's at 844mm focal length, not widefield
regarding fits files, that's the standard for astronomical cameras, and there are many options to work with them. personally i use PixInsight, but I also use CCDStack (for checking things), SGP reads and writes them, and occasionally i use astro pixel processor
So if I understand this correctly, you took a 5 minute exposure, unguided (Meaning this is just the Gemini (II?) holding the aim mechanically?
It appears amazingly sharp for 5 minutes unguided. Quite a credit to the Gemini and the mechanics of the Losmandy mount.
Very nice test Brian, and encouraging results.
Your dropbox file is a .fit format though.
What do you use to work with .fit files?
-- Brian?
Brian Valente portfolio
|
Re: G11 performance unguided
So if I understand this correctly, you took a 5 minute exposure, unguided (Meaning this is just the Gemini (II?) holding the aim mechanically?
It appears amazingly sharp for 5 minutes unguided. Quite a credit to the Gemini and the mechanics of the Losmandy mount.
Very nice test Brian, and encouraging results.
Your dropbox file is a .fit format though.
What do you use to work with .fit files?
|
I have been experimenting with optimizing unguided performance with my G11 and wanted to share an example of what's possible right now.?
Most importantly, this is unguided and at a pretty good focal length. My G11 was purchased around 2010 and has been steadily updated through the years. I think it's pretty much what you'd get if you bought it today, except it's pretty banged up lol
the target is webo 1, a tiny planetary nebula on the fringe of the heart nebula.?
this is a single 300 second frame (Ha filter) scope is ES165?@844mm focal length, i think it's at f5.6? i have to check the reducer specs camera is SX trius pro 694, no cooling (camera issues with cooler) unguided exposure no PEC
the important stuff on the exposure fwhm 1.914 eccentricity 0.5140 (roughly, star eccentricity?of 0.5 is considered round to the human eye)
I hope i used settings that represented a good test (I used the Ha filter because otherwise my luminance or other broadband filter would blow out due to bortle 9 skies)? ?
i've attached a JPG to this email, it's an unimpressive target but the star profiles show the performance (it's not cut off: i'm aiming for the edge of the nebula where webo 1 resides)
the link to the raw fits is here if you want to pixel peep
this was one of the best frames, and of course image quality varied quite a bit
Observations:
Polar alignment and tightening the alt/az knobs seem to be really critical, far more than I anticipated. I used sharpcap 3.2 for polar alignment (ended up measured at 14") and replaced the stock bolts with #8 hardened hex head bolts (nuts for the az), and tightened them carefully using a crescent wrench.?
I also took care to balance the mount in both ra and dec (using spring loaded worms, so no weight bias) and another important thing was not to overtighten the clutches: only as much as needed to stop the axis moving
I don't think this says I can image unguided all the time just yet. there are still a fair number of frames that show some star elongation, enough that i can see it at 200% magnification. I'm not sure if it's polar alignment or other, so i'm still experimenting
-- Brian?
Brian Valente portfolio
|
Re: Initial Setup of the Mount
Note
that Stellarvue has designed and
sells a wood tripod now.. No idea what it costs, looks like, or how well it
works (or doesn¡¯t), but it¡¯s another option.. Stellarvue¡¯s
Customer Service is second to none, which is useful when needed..
?
Derek
?
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Show quoted text
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Deric Caselli
Sent: Saturday, February 01, 2020
10:51 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users_io]
Initial Setup of the Mount
?
Nice Derek, that you don't have to move. Nice place their in the Bay
Area. Easy to get to? dark sites.and not far from michael, if you need
something or other.The Losmandy HD tripod is a beast. But I guess I will try a
Berlebach when I find a GM8 and see it is as nice as they say they are.
Sent from my Boost Mobile Phone.
-------- Original message --------
From: Derek C Breit <breit_ideas@...>
Date: 2/1/20 10:23 AM (GMT-06:00)
Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users_io] Initial Setup of the Mount
I
already had this mount from my 12¡± LX200.. I left it out so long that the legs
are no longer adjustable for length due to rust, and even though the legs are
frozen at different lengths, it sits perfectly in the front yard since it
became frozen in almost the same spot.. When I bought the used G11 from a guy
30 minutes away, I acquired my 2nd Meade GFT, though that one is
stored inside, having learned my lesson that the legs aren¡¯t meant for long
term exposure..
???
I am hoping that I can dismount the G11 and my scope and take the ¡°good¡± GFT
mobile, and when I return be able to remount things and have it be rather close
to still polar aligned (as I wouldn¡¯t adjust the mount)..
???
I would have been quite OK w/ a Losmandy tripod.. Maybe that¡¯s because I never
have seen one in person and think it has a smaller foot print and is shorter
when assembled, I don¡¯t know.. The Meade GFT is built like a tank and I have
always believe it would support a bus..
???
A Side Note.. I *really* like the link before.. A Tak refractor on a Titan..
Reminds me of when Michael laughed at me when I was worried that the G11
wouldn¡¯t handle my SVR130 Raptor.. ¡°It wouldn¡¯t even know it¡¯s there¡± and how
he said it would handle my deforked 12¡± Meade.. :-))
???
Now to go drive an hour to meet ¨C and THANK ¨C my landlord who turned down the
offer from the guy who *really* wanted to buy this place and ruin everything..
YEAH ME! :-))..
???
OH! If someone has a Losmandy mount and wishes they had a Meade instead, I
would be the guy most convincible of a trade.. At a minimum you¡¯d have to live
in the SF Bay Area.. California
maybe.. I am NOT shipping a Giant Field Tripod..
?Derek
?
?
ah i understand now. that makes more sense
?
Scroll
thru this (not mine) that shows this clearly..
?
?
Derek
?
?
if i'm following this correctly, your non-losmandy legs have only a
center bolt and you've had to figure out workarounds for getting it to not
rotate on top of the tripod?
Boy that sounds like a great argument for going with losmandy tripod!
?
Well
then..
I did it that way, because no matter how tight I
tightened the center bolt (when I first got the mount), once I added the 38
pound G11 and 30 pounds or so of equipment, the T handle under the spreader bar
would invariably not be as tight as it was.. At that point I could not apply
the wrench to hold the nut anymore, since the mount ¨C obviously ¨C hides it..
???
To make it ¡°better¡±, I learned that as soon as you think your tripod has the
legs spread and it¡¯s level, and everything is tight, to go around to each leg
and pick it up slightly and set them ack down.. Then retighten everything..
Then load the mount and equipment and it is LIKELY to remain all tight..
???
Then, just in case it ever came loose again.. I put the three screws in so the
MA Adapter wouldn¡¯t rotate if the center bolt wasn¡¯t snug enough from all the
slewing of the telescope I do..
???
It didn¡¯t want it to change azimuth and ruin my extensive drift alignment..
?
This
is,also, why I asked a while back about using a compass so that when I set the
mount down initially, I make sure to do it well enough to have adequate range
on the Azimuth adjuster..
?
Derek
?
?
Derek,
To me, discussion are flows of thought. As long as the water keeps flowing, why
dam it up?
Never had a Meade myself. But I've been to .
Yep, I am incorrigible. Sorry Dude.
--
--
|
Re: 12" extension and RA/Dec Cable length
As for a set of longer cables put me down for a set or two, Michael.
Sent from my Galaxy Tab A
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
-------- Original message --------
From: Michael Herman <mherman346@...>
Date: 2/1/20 7:34 PM (GMT-06:00)
Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users_io] 12" extension and RA/Dec Cable length
I'll be receiving my first case of this type of Gemini1 motor controller damage in about a week, to try a repair.
Bren Smith and David Partridge are world experts in this type of repair.? I've only read of this yet never tried repairing one before.? ?They are providing great guidance in what to do.? This particular repair requires programming of a certain
chip, which remains a new task to be mastered.??
The repairs have taught me a lot about electronic design and failure.??
However, it's worth warning our wonderful owners about prevention of equipment damage.? Labelling is as easy as it gets.??
Have fun, ...send pictures!
Michael
Good idea Michael, this takes no time and certainly cheaper than blowing your motor chip. Accidents can happen and they do.
Sent from my Galaxy Tab A
-------- Original message --------
Date: 2/1/20 6:27 PM (GMT-06:00)
Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users_io] 12" extension and RA/Dec Cable length
Just so everyone (new) knows:
If you were to mistakenly rotate the motor cable end, and shove it forcefully into the motor or Gemini incorrectly, you will blow out the motor control chip in the Gemini.? ??
You might think this is nearly impossible, but every so often it happens.? And the Gemini units need a repair.? The round DIN cable plug has a small barely indented "detent" so it is possible to mis-rotate the plug and still push it into the
female socket.?
So it is very valuable to put some kind of label on the cable ends, and on the motors and on the Gemini point of cable connection.
Just for example, here is a picture of how I labelled my Gemini1 and it's mating cable ends, using a white label-maker tape.
Best,
Michael
?
Thanks Michael, I bet I would be interested in longer cables. But not until I actually do have a mount, and have had the time to experiment with how I would choose to route them.
As for Identifiers, plugs anodized in identifying colors on both ends could easily do the trick. Red for RA, As a suggestion.
But if I do put a base on my block wall, and I do make a pier-like mount there (4" base + 12" extension), I do think I would want long RA and DEC cables. Possibly 48" so the mount head, and my telescope wiring can be routed semi-permanently. Building a loom
for the specific location. And also for the mount on the tripod with the 12" extension, and then simply plug in the USB and Power at the Gemini Area down low. (Wall height)
When I decided to put my to condense all the cables
into a single to come down to my laptop, I went the further step and found shorter cables in USB-B to USB-A (16") and put them into a loom on my telescope for the camera's and my focuser. I dropped my project of motorizing my 9 position filter wheel because
It just lost its appeal for me. But the 7 slot hub has a lot of room to grow.
The purpose was/is to tidy up all the wiring, and to reduce things to a Power wire, and a single USB cable to the ground.
New mount calls for rethinking/applying things, which I like anyway. That is fun to me.
But personally, I'm not sold on internal wiring. To me, there isn't enough room for flex of the wiring in the tight spaces inside a mount. So I'm for outside where I can change, rearrange, or easily replace my loom. Just a personal preference based on experience.
So not a fan.
|
Re: 12" extension and RA/Dec Cable length
I'll be receiving my first case of this type of Gemini1 motor controller damage in about a week, to try a repair.
Bren Smith and David Partridge are world experts in this type of repair.? I've only read of this yet never tried repairing one before.? ?They are providing great guidance in what to do.? This particular repair requires programming of a certain chip, which remains a new task to be mastered.??
The repairs have taught me a lot about electronic design and failure.??
However, it's worth warning our wonderful owners about prevention of equipment damage.? Labelling is as easy as it gets.??
Have fun, ...send pictures!
Michael
Good idea Michael, this takes no time and certainly cheaper than blowing your motor chip. Accidents can happen and they do.
Sent from my Galaxy Tab A
-------- Original message --------
Date: 2/1/20 6:27 PM (GMT-06:00)
Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users_io] 12" extension and RA/Dec Cable length
Just so everyone (new) knows:
If you were to mistakenly rotate the motor cable end, and shove it forcefully into the motor or Gemini incorrectly, you will blow out the motor control chip in the Gemini.? ??
You might think this is nearly impossible, but every so often it happens.? And the Gemini units need a repair.? The round DIN cable plug has a small barely indented "detent" so it is possible to mis-rotate the plug and still push it into the
female socket.?
So it is very valuable to put some kind of label on the cable ends, and on the motors and on the Gemini point of cable connection.
Just for example, here is a picture of how I labelled my Gemini1 and it's mating cable ends, using a white label-maker tape.
Best,
Michael
?
Thanks Michael, I bet I would be interested in longer cables. But not until I actually do have a mount, and have had the time to experiment with how I would choose to route them.
As for Identifiers, plugs anodized in identifying colors on both ends could easily do the trick. Red for RA, As a suggestion.
But if I do put a base on my block wall, and I do make a pier-like mount there (4" base + 12" extension), I do think I would want long RA and DEC cables. Possibly 48" so the mount head, and my telescope wiring can be routed semi-permanently. Building a loom
for the specific location. And also for the mount on the tripod with the 12" extension, and then simply plug in the USB and Power at the Gemini Area down low. (Wall height)
When I decided to put my to condense all the cables into
a single to come down to my laptop, I went the further step and found shorter cables in USB-B to USB-A (16") and put them into a loom on my telescope for the camera's and my focuser. I dropped my project of motorizing my 9 position filter wheel because It
just lost its appeal for me. But the 7 slot hub has a lot of room to grow.
The purpose was/is to tidy up all the wiring, and to reduce things to a Power wire, and a single USB cable to the ground.
New mount calls for rethinking/applying things, which I like anyway. That is fun to me.
But personally, I'm not sold on internal wiring. To me, there isn't enough room for flex of the wiring in the tight spaces inside a mount. So I'm for outside where I can change, rearrange, or easily replace my loom. Just a personal preference based on experience.
So not a fan.
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Re: 12" extension and RA/Dec Cable length
Good idea Michael, this takes no time and certainly cheaper than blowing your motor chip. Accidents can happen and they do.
Sent from my Galaxy Tab A
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-------- Original message --------
From: Michael Herman <mherman346@...>
Date: 2/1/20 6:27 PM (GMT-06:00)
Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users_io] 12" extension and RA/Dec Cable length
Just so everyone (new) knows:
If you were to mistakenly rotate the motor cable end, and shove it forcefully into the motor or Gemini incorrectly, you will blow out the motor control chip in the Gemini.? ??
You might think this is nearly impossible, but every so often it happens.? And the Gemini units need a repair.? The round DIN cable plug has a small barely indented "detent" so it is possible to mis-rotate the plug and still push it into the
female socket.?
So it is very valuable to put some kind of label on the cable ends, and on the motors and on the Gemini point of cable connection.
Just for example, here is a picture of how I labelled my Gemini1 and it's mating cable ends, using a white label-maker tape.
Best,
Michael
?
Thanks Michael, I bet I would be interested in longer cables. But not until I actually do have a mount, and have had the time to experiment with how I would choose to route them.
As for Identifiers, plugs anodized in identifying colors on both ends could easily do the trick. Red for RA, As a suggestion.
But if I do put a base on my block wall, and I do make a pier-like mount there (4" base + 12" extension), I do think I would want long RA and DEC cables. Possibly 48" so the mount head, and my telescope wiring can be routed semi-permanently. Building a loom
for the specific location. And also for the mount on the tripod with the 12" extension, and then simply plug in the USB and Power at the Gemini Area down low. (Wall height)
When I decided to put my to condense all the cables into
a single to come down to my laptop, I went the further step and found shorter cables in USB-B to USB-A (16") and put them into a loom on my telescope for the camera's and my focuser. I dropped my project of motorizing my 9 position filter wheel because It
just lost its appeal for me. But the 7 slot hub has a lot of room to grow.
The purpose was/is to tidy up all the wiring, and to reduce things to a Power wire, and a single USB cable to the ground.
New mount calls for rethinking/applying things, which I like anyway. That is fun to me.
But personally, I'm not sold on internal wiring. To me, there isn't enough room for flex of the wiring in the tight spaces inside a mount. So I'm for outside where I can change, rearrange, or easily replace my loom. Just a personal preference based on experience.
So not a fan.
|
Re: 12" extension and RA/Dec Cable length
great advice, i've nearly done that a few times
also i would add never unplug/plug in while powered on!
Just so everyone (new) knows:
If you were to mistakenly rotate the motor cable end, and shove it forcefully into the motor or Gemini incorrectly, you will blow out the motor control chip in the Gemini.? ??
You might think this is nearly impossible, but every so often it happens.? And the Gemini units need a repair.? The round DIN cable plug has a small barely indented "detent" so it is possible to mis-rotate the plug and still push it into the female socket.?
So it is very valuable to put some kind of label on the cable ends, and on the motors and on the Gemini point of cable connection.
Just for example, here is a picture of how I labelled my Gemini1 and it's mating cable ends, using a white label-maker tape.
Best, Michael
?
Thanks Michael, I bet I would be interested in longer cables. But not until I actually do have a mount, and have had the time to experiment with how I would choose to route them.
As for Identifiers, plugs anodized in identifying colors on both ends could easily do the trick. Red for RA, As a suggestion.
But if I do put a base on my block wall, and I do make a pier-like mount there (4" base + 12" extension), I do think I would want long RA and DEC cables. Possibly 48" so the mount head, and my telescope wiring can be routed semi-permanently. Building a loom for the specific location. And also for the mount on the tripod with the 12" extension, and then simply plug in the USB and Power at the Gemini Area down low. (Wall height)
When I decided to put my to condense all the cables into a single to come down to my laptop, I went the further step and found shorter cables in USB-B to USB-A (16") and put them into a loom on my telescope for the camera's and my focuser. I dropped my project of motorizing my 9 position filter wheel because It just lost its appeal for me. But the 7 slot hub has a lot of room to grow.
The purpose was/is to tidy up all the wiring, and to reduce things to a Power wire, and a single USB cable to the ground.
New mount calls for rethinking/applying things, which I like anyway. That is fun to me.
But personally, I'm not sold on internal wiring. To me, there isn't enough room for flex of the wiring in the tight spaces inside a mount. So I'm for outside where I can change, rearrange, or easily replace my loom. Just a personal preference based on experience. So not a fan.
-- Brian?
Brian Valente portfolio
|
Re: 12" extension and RA/Dec Cable length
Just so everyone (new) knows:
If you were to mistakenly rotate the motor cable end, and shove it forcefully into the motor or Gemini incorrectly, you will blow out the motor control chip in the Gemini.? ??
You might think this is nearly impossible, but every so often it happens.? And the Gemini units need a repair.? The round DIN cable plug has a small barely indented "detent" so it is possible to mis-rotate the plug and still push it into the female socket.?
So it is very valuable to put some kind of label on the cable ends, and on the motors and on the Gemini point of cable connection.
Just for example, here is a picture of how I labelled my Gemini1 and it's mating cable ends, using a white label-maker tape.
Best, Michael
?
Thanks Michael, I bet I would be interested in longer cables. But not until I actually do have a mount, and have had the time to experiment with how I would choose to route them.
As for Identifiers, plugs anodized in identifying colors on both ends could easily do the trick. Red for RA, As a suggestion.
But if I do put a base on my block wall, and I do make a pier-like mount there (4" base + 12" extension), I do think I would want long RA and DEC cables. Possibly 48" so the mount head, and my telescope wiring can be routed semi-permanently. Building a loom for the specific location. And also for the mount on the tripod with the 12" extension, and then simply plug in the USB and Power at the Gemini Area down low. (Wall height)
When I decided to put my to condense all the cables into a single to come down to my laptop, I went the further step and found shorter cables in USB-B to USB-A (16") and put them into a loom on my telescope for the camera's and my focuser. I dropped my project of motorizing my 9 position filter wheel because It just lost its appeal for me. But the 7 slot hub has a lot of room to grow.
The purpose was/is to tidy up all the wiring, and to reduce things to a Power wire, and a single USB cable to the ground.
New mount calls for rethinking/applying things, which I like anyway. That is fun to me.
But personally, I'm not sold on internal wiring. To me, there isn't enough room for flex of the wiring in the tight spaces inside a mount. So I'm for outside where I can change, rearrange, or easily replace my loom. Just a personal preference based on experience. So not a fan.
|
Re: Rubbermaid "Observashed" for my G11
Looks good to me Bill.
I have some of these sheds for storing stuff.
Mine are separating at the corners. Trying to figure out how to re-secure them.
But like your ingenuity.
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Re: Astro-Imaging, the incurable disease !
OK, Ethernet hooks up then later will not.? HC firmware updated to 2017, and no further.? Think I will just go USB for now.? Obviously Ethernet connection is not reliable.? Gemini II site states it is more reliable than USB.? That is funny.
Been using USB for 20 years on Celestron and Meade mounts.? Never a problem.? Hooked it up in 5 minutes and works fine on my GII also.? Maybe it is Win 10 compatibility, don't know, but Imaging is hard enough without having to spend hours on a Ethernet connection setup that does not work.
Thanks? ?Gary?
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Re: 12" extension and RA/Dec Cable length
Thanks Michael, I bet I would be interested in longer cables. But not until I actually do have a mount, and have had the time to experiment with how I would choose to route them.
As for Identifiers, plugs anodized in identifying colors on both ends could easily do the trick. Red for RA, As a suggestion.
But if I do put a base on my block wall, and I do make a pier-like mount there (4" base + 12" extension), I do think I would want long RA and DEC cables. Possibly 48" so the mount head, and my telescope wiring can be routed semi-permanently. Building a loom for the specific location. And also for the mount on the tripod with the 12" extension, and then simply plug in the USB and Power at the Gemini Area down low. (Wall height)
When I decided to put my to condense all the cables into a single to come down to my laptop, I went the further step and found shorter cables in USB-B to USB-A (16") and put them into a loom on my telescope for the camera's and my focuser. I dropped my project of motorizing my 9 position filter wheel because It just lost its appeal for me. But the 7 slot hub has a lot of room to grow.
The purpose was/is to tidy up all the wiring, and to reduce things to a Power wire, and a single USB cable to the ground.
New mount calls for rethinking/applying things, which I like anyway. That is fun to me.
But personally, I'm not sold on internal wiring. To me, there isn't enough room for flex of the wiring in the tight spaces inside a mount. So I'm for outside where I can change, rearrange, or easily replace my loom. Just a personal preference based on experience. So not a fan.
|
Michael Herman
Gary C.